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Re: Length of tubing in the condenser coil-Now condeser design

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  • justin_dittmann
    Top darts Robert. Thanks for that, I was guessing that would be the case. Sorry for the questions, I m just tying a few questions up before the solder flows. I
    Message 1 of 2 , Jun 25, 2004
      Top darts Robert. Thanks for that, I was guessing that would be the
      case. Sorry for the questions, I'm just tying a few questions up
      before the solder flows. I do have the H patern going but I
      considered using just the 90 degree elbow as you have done, which is
      still a possibility as nothing is soldered yet. How did you manage
      the soldering/fitting of the lip inside the T, looks like a bit of a
      tight fit and may be a bit fiddly. Would you recommend going this
      way with the column design over the H? I have noticed that quite a
      lot of people have gone for your option instead of the H. I'm
      guessing minimal/no differences bar the obvious slight differences
      in build.

      Ah...regardless I'll be soldering something together this weekend
      and putting a sugar batch on to ferment.

      Appreciate the help guys.

      cheers in beers or spirits, Justin


      --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Robert N" <dinks_c@y...>
      wrote:
      > Justin you are correct, you do not need to bother with the second
      needle
      > valve, and in fact you can use a half inch copper tube as the
      return line.
      > Think of it this way, if you are running the still at 100% reflux
      you want
      > all the liquid to flow back into the tower, if it doesn't, (second
      valve
      > turned off or flow restricted) what will happen is the liquid will
      continue
      > to pool up until it overflows through the section of pipe that the
      vapour
      > travels upward towards the condenser. When I built my first still
      I didn't
      > use the "H" section as you are, I used an elbow and placed a
      tongue inside
      > of the elbow to make the returning liquid drop into the centre of
      the
      > scrubbers. I welded a fitting under the elbow and fitted the tap
      to this.
      >
      >
      >
      > The two tubes in the copper end cap you speak of only has to be
      slightly
      > different in height, make the one that flows to the valve as flush
      as
      > possible with the base, you can even try a slight thump on this
      tube with a
      > hammer or similar to make the liquid pool in it's vicinity. The
      return line
      > only needs to be slightly higher, this height is not critical.
      Although any
      > great pool will cause the liquid to loose too much heat and
      consequently,
      > the liquid will drop a lot further down the tube before returning
      to a
      > vapour state.
      >
      >
      >
      > Yours in Spirit
      >
      >
      >
      > Robert
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      > _____
      >
      > From: justin_dittmann [mailto:justin_dittmann@y...]
      > Sent: Friday, 25 June 2004 10:22 AM
      > To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
      > Subject: [new_distillers] Re: Length of tubing in the condenser
      coil
      >
      >
      >
      > Thanks Tony, I bought 6m of 1/4" and coiled if up last night. 5m
      was
      > spot on and I have ~1m left for the collection and reflux return
      > tubes. Excellent. I appreciate your advice guys, that coil chewed
      up
      > a lot of copper ;). Also got some nice brass fittings and a needle
      > valve.
      >
      > Actually, on the needle valve bit, I also read and saw some
      pictures
      > that suggested using only one needle valve on the collection tube
      > and saving some $$ by not buying or using a second needle valve on
      > the returning reflux tube as you can just run the reflux return
      tube
      > back into the column without the need for a valve.
      >
      > I understand this concept and why you can do it. Now, obviously
      I'm
      > new to this and haven't done a batch yet. For easy of use
      (learning)
      > and later on, would you recommend getting a second needle valve
      for
      > the reflux return or just use the straight return tube? If going
      the
      > straight option with no valve, how high should the return tube
      > intake be above the collection tube intake (as this is going to
      > affect the volume that collects here)? I'll be using a 2" copper
      end
      > cap where my distillate will collect and my reflux and collection
      > tubes start.
      >
      > Thanks guys, sorry for the questions.
      >
      > Cheers, Justin
      >
      > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Ackland, Tony (CALNZAS)"
      > <Tony.Ackland@c...> wrote:
      > > I'd suggest that 5m would be suitable.
      > >
      > > Tony
      >
      >
      >
      > New Distillers group archives are at http://archive.nnytech.net/
      > FAQ and other information available at http://homedistiller.org
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
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    • Robert N
      Justin as far as design goes; either will work well if run correctly. Personally I have built the EL that Bokakob designed and I placed a shotgun condenser on
      Message 2 of 2 , Jun 25, 2004
        Justin as far as design goes; either will work well if run correctly.
        Personally I have built the EL that Bokakob designed and I placed a shotgun
        condenser on top of that. Can't get much simpler that cutting two slots with
        a hacksaw fit two plates into the slots. Drill a hole below the top plate
        and above the bottom plate and place suitable fittings in each. The top has
        the temperature probe the bottom fitting takes the needle valve. The angle
        of the plates are not too crucial. The top plate should be angled slightly
        downwards. All it really does is shelter the temperature probe from liquid
        dropping onto it from above. The bottom plate catches liquid and if it has a
        slight kink downwards in the centre then any liquid the overflows will tend
        to fall onto the middle of the scrubbers below. Don't forget to allow enough
        distance between the two plates for the vapour to flow around, 35mm should
        be ample.



        Mine is an all stainless steel construction which you will find photos of,
        in the files section of the distiller's newsgroup. In copper I would lean
        towards either the EL or the SR design. The only real difference between
        these two and the different incarnations of the offset still design that you
        are going to build, is the offset. The weight of the thing sitting over to
        one side is what I don't like. Otherwise there is bugger all difference.
        There is the simplicity/complexity of the design to consider, along with how
        good your welding or soldering skills are.



        As to the lip, I cut a small length of 50mm pipe length ways; ground the
        outside of the pipe some, so it would be a spring fit inside the 50mm "T"
        section. Then shaped the tongue just so it would lead the liquid into the
        centre of the tower proper but allowed enough vapour to flow around the
        tongue, as the last thing I wanted to do was occlude the vapour flow.



        Whichever way you go, enjoy the work you put into it and I hope you reap the
        fruits of your labour.



        Yours in Spirit





        Robert

        _____

        From: justin_dittmann [mailto:justin_dittmann@...]
        Sent: Friday, 25 June 2004 7:38 PM
        To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
        Subject: [new_distillers] Re: Length of tubing in the condenser coil-Now
        condeser design



        Top darts Robert. Thanks for that, I was guessing that would be the
        case. Sorry for the questions, I'm just tying a few questions up
        before the solder flows. I do have the H patern going but I
        considered using just the 90 degree elbow as you have done, which is
        still a possibility as nothing is soldered yet. How did you manage
        the soldering/fitting of the lip inside the T, looks like a bit of a
        tight fit and may be a bit fiddly. Would you recommend going this
        way with the column design over the H? I have noticed that quite a
        lot of people have gone for your option instead of the H. I'm
        guessing minimal/no differences bar the obvious slight differences
        in build.

        Ah...regardless I'll be soldering something together this weekend
        and putting a sugar batch on to ferment.

        Appreciate the help guys.

        cheers in beers or spirits, Justin





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