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Re: [new_distillers] Re: Quick test update.

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  • Dick
    In message , slacker75@hotmail.com writes ... Hi Tone, Thanks for the compliment, I think it looks quite neat as well. Just cos
    Message 1 of 7 , Sep 24, 2001
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      In message <9odqc9+qesf@...>, slacker75@... writes
      > Dick,
      >   Your still is looks fantastic.  The wooden slats really make it
      > look good.  You say they are curved? Where did you get them?  I was
      > wondering what to use for insulating the pot on my still, I think
      > I've just found the answer!
      >
      > -Tone

      Hi Tone,
      Thanks for the compliment, I think it looks quite neat as well. Just
      'cos something is hand made there is no need to not finish the job properly
      as my old metalwork master used to tell me.

      The wooden slats are curved and you use the urn to do it. I started
      of with a pack of thin softwood tongue & grooved planks from the local DIY
      store. The planks/slats I used are about 7mm thick, 92mm wide, 1m long
      and come in packs of 6 - I don't where you are located but if you can get
      something about that size it'll do. Measure the depth of urn to see how long
      each slat has to be (mine were about 410mm/16" long) and its
      circumference to see how many you'll need (I used 12), add 2 or 3 to the
      number you first arrived at 'cos a few spares come in handy.

      If you're going to used brass/metal bands to hold the slats in place
      then a shallow groove to hold the band in place is a nice, secure, finish. This
      I did by assembling the slats on a flat surface, clamping them all in place &
      routing a shallow slot across the top and bottom about 3" in (remember to
      check where the tap comes out of the urn - and avoid putting the strap
      through the middle of it !!). The brass straps used were made out of ½" x
      1/16" brass strip. Cutting the slot while the slats are still flat is a much easier
      option than waiting until they're curved believe me, and doing the whole lot
      at one pass of the router makes sure everything lines up when you assemble
      it.

      Put 2 or 3" of water in the urn & heat up to a steady boil. Suspend
      the slats (2 or 3 at a time) in the steam but above the water. Using bits of
      straightened out wire coat hanger to hold the bottom end you should just be
      able to fit the slats diagonally in the urn. Put the urn lid back on & leave to
      cook for 15 - 20 minutes. When this is finished, take them out and clamp
      them in position round the outside of the urn. I did this using a couple of 2"
      wide luggage straps that had a ratchet arrangement for tensioning, start off
      with the straps just loose enough to be able to slip the slats under while un-
      curved, get everything in position (you can even start pushing the tongue &
      groove together at this point) then start tightening up on the strap. The slats
      will start curving round the urn without splitting - just apply enough tension to
      give a nice snug fit, you don't need anymore than that. Leave for about an
      hour to dry out on the nice hot outside of the urn, take the straps off &
      remove your now nicely curved pieces of slat to cool. Repeat for the rest of
      the slats. The last slat to fit will probably not be full width so just take a full
      width one curved one and adjust to size by cutting a section out of the
      middle. You'll now have two pieces, one with a tongue on one side & the
      other with a groove that, together, will fit in the last slot hole. Work out where
      the tap comes out of the urn, cut 2 semicircular holes in these slats at this
      height & you've now got a split slat that'll fit round the tap. When everything
      was dry I just painted with a couple of coats of yacht varnish & that was it.

      I made the bands by getting a short length (2-3") of 7mm brass rod
      and cutting a shallow saw slot down the length of it. Next I bent a shallow
      90° flange across the end of the strap, fitted this flange into the slot in the
      brass rod and used it to hold the end of the strap while I bent the rest of it
      180° round the rod. Cut the rod into 4 x ½" lengths, drill holes through the
      middle of each length, at right angles to the slot. Slip each little piece of rod
      back onto it's end of the strap, mark the hole position on the strap, drill a
      clearance hole in this position on the strap and there you have it, a strap
      tensioning device ! Put a long bolt through from one side, a nut on the other
      end & just start tightening up. The nut/bolt will pull the pieces of rod together
      and, because you've got the straps fitted into those slots on the rod, the
      straps will tighten up at the same time. If you tap a hole through two of the
      short lengths of rod you don't even need a nut to tighten up.

      That's it, bit of a long winded description but I hope you get the
      idea. None of the dimensions are critical, if you have to use thicker slats pre-
      soaking in water and/or a longer cooking will probably solve any problems.
      Get back to me if you need anymore info & sorry about the mixed
      metric/imperial measurements - I tend to use whichever is handiest!!

      --
      Dick
      Fra' Auld Reekie
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