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Re: [new_distillers] Digest Number 1186

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  • Joe Hermit
    Dear brothers in spirit, In central Europe it has been distilled all fruit brandies for centuries. It is worth to try the high sugar content fruts e.g. plum,
    Message 1 of 1 , Jan 28, 2004
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      Dear brothers in spirit,

      In central Europe it has been distilled all fruit brandies for centuries. It is worth to try the high sugar content fruts e.g. plum, apricot. They have a 5-7% sugar content. Use a pot still not to loose aromas. You have to distill twice to get a 40-50 % alcohol content.

      Joe

      new_distillers@yahoogroups.com wrote:
      2. Historical whiskey, brandy, & rum.... What were they like?
      From: schwarzenduder


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      Message: 2
      Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 18:30:47 -0800 (PST)
      From: schwarzenduder
      Subject: Historical whiskey, brandy, & rum.... What were they like?


      Fellow hobbyists,

      I hope to once again benefit from your vast experience. I have read a few posts regarding flavor of table-sugar based distillate…

      I agree, if a person is patient and distills slowly at a high rate of reflux, you will get a very clean product that will make a wonderful vodka, or, it can be easily flavored in many ways. I am not always that patient, and would like to try for something a bit less pure, a bit less time consuming (but I realize, more costly).

      Historically speaking, I am curious of what the original whiskies, brandies, and rums must have been like. From what I have read, much of the early liquors were never aged much, if at all. The glorious tales in history about farmers centuries ago making whiskey in small stills…. Did it taste at all like the whiskey we know? Or was it just a foul gulp followed by a kick in the head?

      Being a home brewer (beer), I am curious of what an all-grain (malt extract) distillate would taste like.

      Have any of you tried an all grain or all fruit or all molasses distillation (with no added processed sugars)? What was the result?



      Thank you.



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      Message: 3
      Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 18:27:34 +0800
      From: "Murphy-Marsh, Leigh"
      Subject: RE: American oak chips

      Try Ebay. I've purchased 3 smallish barrels off them. Two used for port
      and one brand spanker to help oak my bourbon.
      Cheers,
      Leigh.
      Message: 3
      Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 06:54:25 -0000
      From: "hettica"
      Subject: American oak chips

      Can any one inform me please, where I can buy American oak chips? I
      would prefer to get in touch with a dealer in Europe. I am also
      looking for small barrels in american or french oak! I have seen some
      with taps, containing about 5 to 10 L., but where?


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      Message: 4
      Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 05:51:37 -0000
      From: "vojeto"
      Subject: Re: Lead free solders

      --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Campbell Ritchie"
      wrote:

      > I got a couple of sticks in Bunnings in Brisbane. They didn't know
      > the correct price as they were in the middle of a shelf
      > reorganisation and gave me them for about $2 each but they do carry
      > them (Everton Park) as a stock item.

      Thanks for the tip. I found a 500g spool of Aqusafe at Bunnings
      Everton Park, about $18. The people at Bunnings Oxley just looked at
      me blankly when I asked for lead-free solder. Two outlets each of
      both Tradelink and Reece (plumbing suppliers) said they didn't carry
      lead free solder as a stock item - I got bored with phoning after
      that.

      It's amazing what you notice when you're attuned to something,
      though. Consolidated Alloys, makers of Aquasafe, also sell lead-
      containinig solder. However, they aren't into branding and
      packaging. All their solders are on identical spools, the labels on
      the end look like they've been printed on dot matrix printers (and
      occasioanlly fall off - the labels that is - so you don't know what
      the solder is), and they're labelled with the amount of lead and
      tin. I saw some spools of solder in a local hardware store, and
      kicked myself over all the trouble I'd gone to, until I read the
      labels - 50/50 or 60/40 lead/tin.

      Cheers
      John Rae



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      Message: 5
      Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 13:05:28 -0000
      From: "Tarvus"
      Subject: Re: Historical whiskey, brandy, & rum.... What were they like?

      --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, schwarzenduder
      wrote:


      > Have any of you tried an all grain or all fruit or all molasses
      distillation (with no added processed sugars)? What was the result?

      I have done several all grain distillations and the results are
      exceptionally good - particularly when the distillate is aged in
      charred oak. Grain bills included a corn-barley malt and a corn-rye-
      barley malt composition.

      I have also done a rum but can't claim all molasses. I used the
      darkest dark brown sugar which has a lot of molasses added back to
      it. Not all rum is made from molasses - some uses pure cane juice.
      My assumption was that the dark brown sugar only has elements of pure
      cane in it so that when reconstituted with water, it in effect
      becomes like cane juice.

      Regardless, the rum was excellent. Again, aging on charred oak is a
      big plus.

      The critical thing when trying to make one of these is deciding where
      to start and end the cut. I used small jars to collect the
      distillate, numerically labeled the jars, then used taste and smell
      subjectively to determine how much of the early run to use and how
      much of the late run to blend into the final mix.

      best regards,
      Tarvus



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      Message: 6
      Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 09:57:57 -0500
      From: "Austin Smith"
      Subject: Re: Thanks For Sharing This Amazing Tip!

      It probably wouldn't be wise for all 1,300 of us to send Lisa a little love note, would it?

      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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      Message: 7
      Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 15:31:57 -0000
      From: "whynda"
      Subject: Re: Lead free solders

      --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Campbell Ritchie" wrote:
      > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "vojeto" wrote:
      > > What is the typical composition and price of lead free solders?
      > snipped
      > I got a couple of sticks in Bunnings in Brisbane. They didn't know
      > the correct price as they were in the middle of a shelf
      > reorganisation and gave me them for about $2 each but they do carry
      > them (Everton Park) as a stock item.
      >
      > Gardyloo!
      > Campbell



      Greetings all,
      May I just add my two cents worth? .. If the Solder came in a "Stick" form it probably is NOT lead free and especially at $2 per stick. The only true lead free soft solder that qualifies as "Food Grade" that I have been able to source is either "Comweld 965" or "Eutectic 157" both of which are horrendously expensive and on top of that you need to add the cost of the relevant flux. Both of these products are not likely to be found in your local Bummings store.




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      Message: 8
      Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 15:39:07 -0000
      From: "whynda"
      Subject: Re: Lead free solders

      --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "vojeto" wrote:
      > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Campbell Ritchie"
      > wrote:
      >
      > > I got a couple of sticks in Bunnings in Brisbane. They didn't know
      > > the correct price as they were in the middle of a shelf
      > > reorganisation and gave me them for about $2 each but they do carry
      > > them (Everton Park) as a stock item.
      >
      > Thanks for the tip. I found a 500g spool of Aqusafe at Bunnings
      > Everton Park, about $18. The people at Bunnings Oxley just looked at
      > me blankly when I asked for lead-free solder. Two outlets each of
      > both Tradelink and Reece (plumbing suppliers) said they didn't carry
      > lead free solder as a stock item - I got bored with phoning after
      > that.
      >


      Greetings all,
      I found the people at Reece to be knowledgeable and helpful and they do indeed carry Aquasafe as a stock line ( at least in my local Reece store)I would like to see a Material Safety Data Sheet on Aquasafe before I committed to building anything with it from which I was producing something I was going to put in my mouth.
      > It's amazing what you notice when you're attuned to something,
      > though. Consolidated Alloys, makers of Aquasafe, also sell lead-
      > containinig solder. However, they aren't into branding and
      > packaging. All their solders are on identical spools, the labels on
      > the end look like they've been printed on dot matrix printers (and
      > occasioanlly fall off - the labels that is - so you don't know what
      > the solder is), and they're labelled with the amount of lead and
      > tin. I saw some spools of solder in a local hardware store, and
      > kicked myself over all the trouble I'd gone to, until I read the
      > labels - 50/50 or 60/40 lead/tin.
      >
      > Cheers
      > John Rae



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      Message: 9
      Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 08:18:41 -0800 (PST)
      From: BOKAKOB
      Subject: Re: Re: Lead free solders

      This is EXACTLY the reason why a still design with minimal soldered joints exposure is so essential... The less soldering the less exposure to possibly leaded solder is there!

      whynda wrote:--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Campbell Ritchie" wrote:
      > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "vojeto" wrote:
      > > What is the typical composition and price of lead free solders?
      > snipped
      > I got a couple of sticks in Bunnings in Brisbane. They didn't know
      > the correct price as they were in the middle of a shelf
      > reorganisation and gave me them for about $2 each but they do carry
      > them (Everton Park) as a stock item.
      >
      > Gardyloo!
      > Campbell



      Greetings all,
      May I just add my two cents worth? .. If the Solder came in a "Stick" form it probably is NOT lead free and especially at $2 per stick. The only true lead free soft solder that qualifies as "Food Grade" that I have been able to source is either "Comweld 965" or "Eutectic 157" both of which are horrendously expensive and on top of that you need to add the cost of the relevant flux. Both of these products are not likely to be found in your local Bummings store.




      New Distillers group archives are at http://archive.nnytech.net/
      FAQ and other information available at http://homedistiller.org

      ttp://archive.nnytech.net/
      FAQ and other information available at http://homedistiller.org





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      I can be wrong I must say
      Cheers, Alex...



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      Message: 10
      Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 11:07:27 -0500
      From: "Austin Smith"
      Subject: Re: Re: Lead free solders

      This is a stateside supplier. Maybe they can give you a more accessible supplier

      http://www.solders.com/plumbing.htm

      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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      Message: 11
      Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 07:12:00 +1000
      From: "Laurens W"
      Subject: Re: Re: Lead free solders

      Here is an australian supplier:-
      http://www.matthey.com.au/JMA_eService/Silver_brazing_Alloys.html
      ----- Original Message -----
      From: "Austin Smith"
      To:
      Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2004 2:07 AM
      Subject: Re: [new_distillers] Re: Lead free solders


      > This is a stateside supplier. Maybe they can give you a more accessible
      supplier
      >
      > http://www.solders.com/plumbing.htm
      >
      > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      >
      >
      > New Distillers group archives are at http://archive.nnytech.net/
      > FAQ and other information available at http://homedistiller.org
      >
      > ttp://archive.nnytech.net/
      > FAQ and other information available at http://homedistiller.org
      >
      >
      >
      > Yahoo! Groups Links
      >
      > To visit your group on the web, go to:
      > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/new_distillers/
      >
      > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
      > new_distillers-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
      >
      > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
      > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
      >
      >
      >




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      Message: 12
      Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 21:41:33 -0000
      From: "Harry"
      Subject: FYI - A Message from Yahoo Groups

      Just in case anyone hasn't seen the message...

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      regards Harry



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      Message: 13
      Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 22:03:00 -0000
      From: "Harry"
      Subject: Re: Thanks For Sharing This Amazing Tip!

      --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Austin Smith"
      wrote:
      > It probably wouldn't be wise for all 1,300 of us to send Lisa a
      little love note, would it?
      >
      > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



      No, not wise. Although we all feel some form of "payback" is
      warranted, it's irrelevant. Mounting a DOS (Denial Of Service)
      attack is against the law, and breaks your agreement with Yahoo.

      That type of action makes us no better than the people peddling this
      crap.

      Slainte!
      regards Harry



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      Message: 14
      Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 09:28:01 +1300
      From: "Ackland, Tony (CALNZAS)"
      Subject: New Distillers FAQ

      "NEW DISTILLERS" Frequently Asked Questions (Feb'03)

      Posted near the 1st of each month, to the NEW_DISTILLERS newsgroup at www.yahoogroups.com

      Please email any additions, corrections, clarifications required, etc regarding the FAQ to Tony Ackland (Tony.Ackland@...), however please direct any general questions to the newsgroup itself.

      *******************************************************************

      1) Is distilling hard to do ?
      2) Is it legal ?
      3) Will it make me blind ?
      4) Whats the difference between a pot still, reflux still, and fractionating column ?
      5) How do I get or make a still ?
      6) How do I make a whisky / rum / vodka / gin ?
      7) Should I use sugar or grains ?
      8) Can I use fruit wine ?
      9) How do I make a Turbo-all-sugar wash ?
      10) How do I run a Pot still ?
      11) How do I run a Reflux still ?
      12) Can I use a reflux still to make rum or whisky ?
      13) How do I measure the strength of it & dilute it ?
      14) How do I get rid of that "off-taste" ?
      15) Why do my spirits turn cloudy when diluted ?
      16) How do I flavour/turn the vodka's into something else ?
      17) What web resources are there ?
      18) How do I contact the NEW DISTILLERS news group ?
      19) Can I run my car on it ?
      20) How do I convert between gallons and litres and ....
      21) What is a "Thumper" ?
      22) Can methylated spirits be made safe to drink ?

      **********************************************************************

      1) Is distilling hard to do ?

      Nope - if you can follow instructions enough to bake scones, then you can sucessfully distil. To distil well however, will require you to understand what you're doing, so read around and get a bit of information under your belt before you begin.

      2) Is it legal ?

      Probably not. It is only legal in New Zealand, and some European countries turn a blind eye to it, but elsewhere it is illegal, with punishment ranging from fines to imprisonment or floggings. This action against it is usually the result of either religous beliefs (right or wrong), but more generally due to the great revenue base it provides Governements through excise taxes. So if you are going to distil, just be aware of the potential legal ramifications.


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