Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

Re: [new_distillers] Digest Number 1175

Expand Messages
  • Joe Hermit
    Hi all, just one remark. You do not need open fire to create disaster. The flash point of alcohol is 13 Celsius. It is enough to have a leking seal. hermit
    Message 1 of 1 , Jan 13, 2004
    • 0 Attachment
      Hi all,

      just one remark. You do not need open fire to create disaster. The flash point of alcohol is 13 Celsius. It is enough to have a leking seal.

      hermit

      new_distillers@yahoogroups.com wrote:
      There are 3 messages in this issue.

      Topics in this digest:

      1. Re: Open flame vs. electrical elements
      From: "bordermeister"
      2. Re: Re: Cutting a Hole in My Keg For Heating Elements
      From: Derek Hamlet
      3. Re: Re: Open flame vs. electrical elements
      From: "Laurens W"


      ________________________________________________________________________
      ________________________________________________________________________

      Message: 1
      Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 04:00:33 -0000
      From: "bordermeister"
      Subject: Re: Open flame vs. electrical elements

      Hi Laurens
      I bought a 1800W element that was in a simple jug from Kmart for $8.
      ie jug and all. I put this in a 25l pail to make a spiral still for
      stripping. Works quite well with power control.

      Cheers
      Mark

      --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Laurens W"
      wrote:
      > In Australia we can buy jug elements that consist of two 200mm
      length rods
      > attached to a ceramic biscuit wrapped with spring like resistive
      wire. they
      > are $3-$5 and a power rating of 1600watts.
      >
      > I was wandering, are these suitable for use as boiler elements?
      >
      > any comments are good.
      >
      >




      ________________________________________________________________________
      ________________________________________________________________________

      Message: 2
      Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 20:09:24 -0800
      From: Derek Hamlet
      Subject: Re: Re: Cutting a Hole in My Keg For Heating Elements

      It probably is not double walled, it just looks that way.
      I'm going to be out of the communication loop for about 2-3 weeks. I'll
      take a digital photo of the keg and send it to you. You can then laugh at
      me and set me straight.
      Thanks for all your input.
      At 06:53 PM 1/12/04, you wrote:
      >Actually, the only double wall anything I've seen on a keg is around
      >the bung opening on Perlick (wow...dating myself, there), Hoff-
      >Stevens, Golden Gate, or Firkins. These "doublers" are welded in so
      >the blows from a bung hammer won't cave the side of the keg in. If
      >one tries to mount an element that high, it won't be of much good.
      >
      >Sankey and EuroSankey fill through the single valve at the, so the
      >bodies are single wall, as Brandon had mentioned........usually 16Ga
      >303 stainless.
      >
      >You've really got to weld in a threaded port of some sort to be able
      >to rest easily about bringing 12.5 gallons of wash to boil, in my
      >humble opinion!
      >
      >BS
      >
      >
      >--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, Brandon Lee
      > wrote:
      > >
      > >
      > > Most kegs here in the U.S. are single walled--if u are confronted
      >with a double wall keg i would first take a 2"hole saw and cut thru
      >the first wall -- then a 1"hole saw to punch the second as u already
      >have a center for a pilot-- the standard water heater elements use a
      >1" coupling -- u can buy these in stainless and weld them to the keg--
      > >
      > > if u are in need of any more help just ask
      > >
      > > Blueflame456
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > > Derek Hamlet wrote: Allright already, I'm
      >convinced. Open flames are fairly dangerous and not
      > > easy to get fine control. Two elements make more sense than one
      >because
      > > you can use two to bring it up to temp. then go to one for the
      >actual
      > > distilling.
      > > The electrical circuitry, circuit breakers etc. also all make sense.
      > > My question is: how to cut the holes in a beer keg for the heating
      >elements.
      > > Cutting the hole in the top is a no brainer. A decent
      >reciprocating saw
      > > and a file will get me the right diameter hole for easy cleaning
      >and
      > > attachment of the upper parts of the apparatus.
      > > However, the keg appears to be double walled going down the side.
      >Do you
      > > folks cut through the double wall on the side? If so, how?
      > > Enlighten me please.
      > > Thanks
      > >
      > >
      > > Derek Hamlet
      > > Victoria, B. C.
      > > 592-8590
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > > New Distillers group archives are at
      > http://archive.nnytech.net/
      > > FAQ and other information available at
      > http://homedistiller.org
      > >
      > > ttp://archive.nnytech.net/
      > > FAQ and other information available at
      > http://homedistiller.org
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > > ---------------------------------
      > > Yahoo! Groups Links
      > >
      > > To visit your group on the web, go to:
      > >
      > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/new_distillers/
      > >
      > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
      > > new_distillers-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
      > >
      > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
      >Service.
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > > ---------------------------------
      > > Do you Yahoo!?
      > > Yahoo! Hotjobs: Enter the "Signing Bonus" Sweepstakes
      > >
      > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      >
      >
      >
      >New Distillers group archives are at
      >http://archive.nnytech.net/
      >FAQ and other information available at
      >http://homedistiller.org
      >
      >ttp://archive.nnytech.net/
      >FAQ and other information available at
      >http://homedistiller.org
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >----------
      >Yahoo! Groups Links
      > * To visit your group on the web, go to:
      > *
      > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/new_distillers/
      >
      > *
      > * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
      > *
      > new_distillers-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
      >
      > *
      > * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the
      > Yahoo! Terms of Service.


      Derek Hamlet
      Victoria, B. C.
      592-8590




      ________________________________________________________________________
      ________________________________________________________________________

      Message: 3
      Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 17:52:04 +1000
      From: "Laurens W"
      Subject: Re: Re: Open flame vs. electrical elements

      That sounds grate I'll have a look at the I-mart range of cheap jug's.

      Out of interest what type of hole and seal was required for your element?


      ----- Original Message -----
      From: "bordermeister"
      To:
      Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2004 2:00 PM
      Subject: [new_distillers] Re: Open flame vs. electrical elements


      > Hi Laurens
      > I bought a 1800W element that was in a simple jug from Kmart for $8.
      > ie jug and all. I put this in a 25l pail to make a spiral still for
      > stripping. Works quite well with power control.
      >
      > Cheers
      > Mark
      >
      > --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, "Laurens W"
      > wrote:
      > > In Australia we can buy jug elements that consist of two 200mm
      > length rods
      > > attached to a ceramic biscuit wrapped with spring like resistive
      > wire. they
      > > are $3-$5 and a power rating of 1600watts.
      > >
      > > I was wandering, are these suitable for use as boiler elements?
      > >
      > > any comments are good.
      > >
      > >
      >
      >
      >
      > New Distillers group archives are at http://archive.nnytech.net/
      > FAQ and other information available at http://homedistiller.org
      >
      > ttp://archive.nnytech.net/
      > FAQ and other information available at http://homedistiller.org
      >
      >
      >
      > Yahoo! Groups Links
      >
      > To visit your group on the web, go to:
      > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/new_distillers/
      >
      > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
      > new_distillers-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
      >
      > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
      > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
      >
      >



      ________________________________________________________________________
      ________________________________________________________________________


      New Distillers group archives are at http://archive.nnytech.net/
      FAQ and other information available at http://homedistiller.org

      ttp://archive.nnytech.net/
      FAQ and other information available at http://homedistiller.org



      ------------------------------------------------------------------------
      Yahoo! Groups Links

      To visit your group on the web, go to:
      http://groups.yahoo.com/group/new_distillers/

      To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
      new_distillers-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

      Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
      http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------



      ---------------------------------
      Yahoo! Messenger - Communicate instantly..."Ping" your friends today! Download Messenger Now

      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.