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Cutting a Hole in My Keg For Heating Elements

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  • Derek Hamlet
    Allright already, I m convinced. Open flames are fairly dangerous and not easy to get fine control. Two elements make more sense than one because you can use
    Message 1 of 5 , Jan 12, 2004
      Allright already, I'm convinced. Open flames are fairly dangerous and not
      easy to get fine control. Two elements make more sense than one because
      you can use two to bring it up to temp. then go to one for the actual
      distilling.
      The electrical circuitry, circuit breakers etc. also all make sense.
      My question is: how to cut the holes in a beer keg for the heating elements.
      Cutting the hole in the top is a no brainer. A decent reciprocating saw
      and a file will get me the right diameter hole for easy cleaning and
      attachment of the upper parts of the apparatus.
      However, the keg appears to be double walled going down the side. Do you
      folks cut through the double wall on the side? If so, how?
      Enlighten me please.
      Thanks


      Derek Hamlet
      Victoria, B. C.
      592-8590
    • brain_solenoid
      Derek, It s a rather laborious process that requires some patience......an enginuity. You use bi-metal hole saws and a variable speed drill. Drill a pilt hole
      Message 2 of 5 , Jan 12, 2004
        Derek,

        It's a rather laborious process that requires some patience......an
        enginuity.

        You use bi-metal hole saws and a variable speed drill. Drill a pilt
        hole at the center where you want the hole and spray WD-40 as a
        lube. Using the pilot hole, hole saw the hole in the keg to match
        the size of a stainless weld 1/2 coupling (mine are 1" DIA NPT) outer
        wall. Use a die grinder to de-burr and take the hole up to size.
        Weld on the stainless 1/2 coupling using either a MIG or TIG welder
        set up for stainless (mine is loaded with .025" DIA wire).

        I had to fab a couple of weld brackets and welded them adjacent to
        the (2) couplings to attach water tight electrical boxes that were
        drilled to go over the 1/2 couplings. You have to keep the
        electrical contact ends of the elements away from water or human
        touch, so seal everything. Use watertight wire fittings where the
        power feed wires enter the boxes.

        It's kind of hard to explain this without pics, so I think I'll shoot
        a few of my set-up and post them. I think I'm probably confusing teh
        issue at this point. Suffice to say that if you don't have access to
        a welder, it'll be tough, but not hopeless.

        Regards,
        BS


        --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, Derek Hamlet
        <derekhamlet@s...> wrote:
        > Allright already, I'm convinced. Open flames are fairly dangerous
        and not
        > easy to get fine control. Two elements make more sense than one
        because
        > you can use two to bring it up to temp. then go to one for the
        actual
        > distilling.
        > The electrical circuitry, circuit breakers etc. also all make sense.
        > My question is: how to cut the holes in a beer keg for the heating
        elements.
        > Cutting the hole in the top is a no brainer. A decent
        reciprocating saw
        > and a file will get me the right diameter hole for easy cleaning
        and
        > attachment of the upper parts of the apparatus.
        > However, the keg appears to be double walled going down the side.
        Do you
        > folks cut through the double wall on the side? If so, how?
        > Enlighten me please.
        > Thanks
        >
        >
        > Derek Hamlet
        > Victoria, B. C.
        > 592-8590
      • Brandon Lee
        Most kegs here in the U.S. are single walled--if u are confronted with a double wall keg i would first take a 2 hole saw and cut thru the first wall -- then a
        Message 3 of 5 , Jan 12, 2004
          Most kegs here in the U.S. are single walled--if u are confronted with a double wall keg i would first take a 2"hole saw and cut thru the first wall -- then a 1"hole saw to punch the second as u already have a center for a pilot-- the standard water heater elements use a 1" coupling -- u can buy these in stainless and weld them to the keg--

          if u are in need of any more help just ask

          Blueflame456




          Derek Hamlet <derekhamlet@...> wrote: Allright already, I'm convinced. Open flames are fairly dangerous and not
          easy to get fine control. Two elements make more sense than one because
          you can use two to bring it up to temp. then go to one for the actual
          distilling.
          The electrical circuitry, circuit breakers etc. also all make sense.
          My question is: how to cut the holes in a beer keg for the heating elements.
          Cutting the hole in the top is a no brainer. A decent reciprocating saw
          and a file will get me the right diameter hole for easy cleaning and
          attachment of the upper parts of the apparatus.
          However, the keg appears to be double walled going down the side. Do you
          folks cut through the double wall on the side? If so, how?
          Enlighten me please.
          Thanks


          Derek Hamlet
          Victoria, B. C.
          592-8590




          New Distillers group archives are at http://archive.nnytech.net/
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          FAQ and other information available at http://homedistiller.org





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        • brain_solenoid
          Actually, the only double wall anything I ve seen on a keg is around the bung opening on Perlick (wow...dating myself, there), Hoff- Stevens, Golden Gate, or
          Message 4 of 5 , Jan 12, 2004
            Actually, the only double wall anything I've seen on a keg is around
            the bung opening on Perlick (wow...dating myself, there), Hoff-
            Stevens, Golden Gate, or Firkins. These "doublers" are welded in so
            the blows from a bung hammer won't cave the side of the keg in. If
            one tries to mount an element that high, it won't be of much good.

            Sankey and EuroSankey fill through the single valve at the, so the
            bodies are single wall, as Brandon had mentioned........usually 16Ga
            303 stainless.

            You've really got to weld in a threaded port of some sort to be able
            to rest easily about bringing 12.5 gallons of wash to boil, in my
            humble opinion!

            BS


            --- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, Brandon Lee
            <blueflame456@y...> wrote:
            >
            >
            > Most kegs here in the U.S. are single walled--if u are confronted
            with a double wall keg i would first take a 2"hole saw and cut thru
            the first wall -- then a 1"hole saw to punch the second as u already
            have a center for a pilot-- the standard water heater elements use a
            1" coupling -- u can buy these in stainless and weld them to the keg--
            >
            > if u are in need of any more help just ask
            >
            > Blueflame456
            >
            >
            >
            >
            > Derek Hamlet <derekhamlet@s...> wrote: Allright already, I'm
            convinced. Open flames are fairly dangerous and not
            > easy to get fine control. Two elements make more sense than one
            because
            > you can use two to bring it up to temp. then go to one for the
            actual
            > distilling.
            > The electrical circuitry, circuit breakers etc. also all make sense.
            > My question is: how to cut the holes in a beer keg for the heating
            elements.
            > Cutting the hole in the top is a no brainer. A decent
            reciprocating saw
            > and a file will get me the right diameter hole for easy cleaning
            and
            > attachment of the upper parts of the apparatus.
            > However, the keg appears to be double walled going down the side.
            Do you
            > folks cut through the double wall on the side? If so, how?
            > Enlighten me please.
            > Thanks
            >
            >
            > Derek Hamlet
            > Victoria, B. C.
            > 592-8590
            >
            >
            >
            >
            > New Distillers group archives are at http://archive.nnytech.net/
            > FAQ and other information available at http://homedistiller.org
            >
            > ttp://archive.nnytech.net/
            > FAQ and other information available at http://homedistiller.org
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            > ---------------------------------
            > Yahoo! Groups Links
            >
            > To visit your group on the web, go to:
            > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/new_distillers/
            >
            > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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            >
            >
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            > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          • Derek Hamlet
            It probably is not double walled, it just looks that way. I m going to be out of the communication loop for about 2-3 weeks. I ll take a digital photo of the
            Message 5 of 5 , Jan 12, 2004
              It probably is not double walled, it just looks that way.
              I'm going to be out of the communication loop for about 2-3 weeks. I'll
              take a digital photo of the keg and send it to you. You can then laugh at
              me and set me straight.
              Thanks for all your input.
              At 06:53 PM 1/12/04, you wrote:
              >Actually, the only double wall anything I've seen on a keg is around
              >the bung opening on Perlick (wow...dating myself, there), Hoff-
              >Stevens, Golden Gate, or Firkins. These "doublers" are welded in so
              >the blows from a bung hammer won't cave the side of the keg in. If
              >one tries to mount an element that high, it won't be of much good.
              >
              >Sankey and EuroSankey fill through the single valve at the, so the
              >bodies are single wall, as Brandon had mentioned........usually 16Ga
              >303 stainless.
              >
              >You've really got to weld in a threaded port of some sort to be able
              >to rest easily about bringing 12.5 gallons of wash to boil, in my
              >humble opinion!
              >
              >BS
              >
              >
              >--- In new_distillers@yahoogroups.com, Brandon Lee
              ><blueflame456@y...> wrote:
              > >
              > >
              > > Most kegs here in the U.S. are single walled--if u are confronted
              >with a double wall keg i would first take a 2"hole saw and cut thru
              >the first wall -- then a 1"hole saw to punch the second as u already
              >have a center for a pilot-- the standard water heater elements use a
              >1" coupling -- u can buy these in stainless and weld them to the keg--
              > >
              > > if u are in need of any more help just ask
              > >
              > > Blueflame456
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > > Derek Hamlet <derekhamlet@s...> wrote: Allright already, I'm
              >convinced. Open flames are fairly dangerous and not
              > > easy to get fine control. Two elements make more sense than one
              >because
              > > you can use two to bring it up to temp. then go to one for the
              >actual
              > > distilling.
              > > The electrical circuitry, circuit breakers etc. also all make sense.
              > > My question is: how to cut the holes in a beer keg for the heating
              >elements.
              > > Cutting the hole in the top is a no brainer. A decent
              >reciprocating saw
              > > and a file will get me the right diameter hole for easy cleaning
              >and
              > > attachment of the upper parts of the apparatus.
              > > However, the keg appears to be double walled going down the side.
              >Do you
              > > folks cut through the double wall on the side? If so, how?
              > > Enlighten me please.
              > > Thanks
              > >
              > >
              > > Derek Hamlet
              > > Victoria, B. C.
              > > 592-8590
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > > New Distillers group archives are at
              > <http://archive.nnytech.net/>http://archive.nnytech.net/
              > > FAQ and other information available at
              > <http://homedistiller.org>http://homedistiller.org
              > >
              > > ttp://archive.nnytech.net/
              > > FAQ and other information available at
              > <http://homedistiller.org>http://homedistiller.org
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > > ---------------------------------
              > > Yahoo! Groups Links
              > >
              > > To visit your group on the web, go to:
              > >
              > <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/new_distillers/>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/new_distillers/
              > >
              > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
              > > new_distillers-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
              > >
              > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
              >Service.
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > > ---------------------------------
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              > > Yahoo! Hotjobs: Enter the "Signing Bonus" Sweepstakes
              > >
              > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              >
              >
              >
              >New Distillers group archives are at
              ><http://archive.nnytech.net/>http://archive.nnytech.net/
              >FAQ and other information available at
              ><http://homedistiller.org>http://homedistiller.org
              >
              >ttp://archive.nnytech.net/
              >FAQ and other information available at
              ><http://homedistiller.org>http://homedistiller.org
              >
              >
              >
              >
              >
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              Derek Hamlet
              Victoria, B. C.
              592-8590
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