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19634RE: [new_distillers] Re: Pro's and con's of the Mini Still

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  • Brendan Keith
    Mar 6, 2006
      You use a hacksaw to cut the slot.

      I made a wooden jig, somewhat like a mitre box, but angled the other
      way, to accomplish it. Helps when you're making multiple units.
      But others just do it freehand. I made multiple, different angled
      slots in the jog to experiment with different angles.
      30-45 degrees all work fine, as long as the takeoff tube is covered,
      as Alex said.

      I make the two plate model, not the single-fixed-plate-with-other-plate-
      soldered-to-the-coil style.

      Vertical spacing of the plates is 1.5" at the closest point, which means
      the slots are about 2.5" apart on opposite sides of the pipe.

      The takeoff tube hole can be cut before or after the slots. Before
      might be easier, as far as starting the slot right at the bottom of it.

      After cutting the slots to the required depth, which is just past the
      halfway mark (you need a small overlap), I put a small piece of cardboard
      into the slot and trimmed it to make a template for the metal plate.

      The plates are made from an offcut from the pipe. Cut about 1.5" off the
      cut it open and hammer flat, then trace out the shape and cut with whatever.

      My hacksaw blade is a bit thinner than the pipe material so the plate
      just slide right in. The pipe needs to be secured at the shorter end,
      lower (collection) slot upwards, a small block placed under the slot and
      downward pressure applied to the long end. This opens up the slot, allowing
      the plate to be inserted and gently tapped into place. The plate should be
      cleaned and fluxed top and bottom before inserting. It's possiblte to get
      a good joint by fluxing only the outside, but I like to be thorough and the
      flux probably helps lubricate the insertion, too.

      You did remember to make two 1/2" parallel cuts in the plate for the drip
      point, right?
      At this point, reach in with a long screwdriver or whatever and bend the
      tab down. Solder, flip and repeat flexing, inserting and soldering.
      No drip tab in the top plate, of course.

      I drill another hole on the same side as the upper plate, halfway between
      the plates and angled down the same way as the plates and solder in a 1"
      piece of the 1/4" tubing. This holds my thermometer perfectly. It is
      just the right diameter so that no vapour escapes and I wrap the
      thermometer with a few turns of masking tape to hold it at just the right
      depth so as not to be in the runoff stream. Just like a drill depth guide.

      Polish the outside, rinse the inside with lots of hot water, maybe even
      do a test run with just water to clean out the flux, another rinse with
      vinegar and salt, then you should be ready to really produce something.
      Brendan Keith

      -----Original Message-----
      From: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
      [mailto:new_distillers@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Dave
      Sent: Monday, March 06, 2006 2:43 AM
      To: new_distillers@yahoogroups.com
      Subject: [new_distillers] Re: Pro's and con's of the Mini Still

      Curious question about the construction of the Mini-Still...if it
      hasn't already been answered.

      How do you get that soldered slanted slate into the piping like that?
      I have some left over materials from my previous still construction
      that I would love to make this.


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