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Warble

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  • ScottV
    I ve got a warble on a flute I m trying to make that is, unfortunately, tuned about 30 cents sharp of G4 on the fundamental. I was thinking of cutting the
    Message 1 of 5 , Mar 1, 2012
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      I've got a warble on a flute I'm trying to make that is, unfortunately, tuned about 30 cents sharp of G4 on the fundamental. I was thinking of cutting the length to get to G#4. The sound holes are already burned in, but I have enough wall thickness (about .25 inch) to sharpen the notes. From previous experience, I'm pretty sure I can sharpen the notes by around one step by sanding the "sound hole wall" down to .125 inch. It will at least get me close and then I could widen the holes and/or undercut. My question is this: will I lose the warble if I do the above? I would love to keep the warble. At the risk of sounding crude, I think the warble is badass - very masculine and warlike, much like the bagpipes in my mind.
    • John E.B. Rawton
      Hi Scott, I don t know if the steps you will take will correct the warble, but the the warble was a feature that was considered to be the sign of a good flute.
      Message 2 of 5 , Mar 1, 2012
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        Hi Scott, I don't know if the steps you will take will correct the warble, but the the warble was a feature that was considered to be the sign of a good flute. If the flute did not warble it was put aside and not played. I don't know where I read this but I seem to remember that when playing yhe flute, the player would start above the fundamental and conclude with the warble. Cool. I'd keep it, but that's just me.

        John

        --- In nativeflutewoodworking@yahoogroups.com, "ScottV" <scottevines@...> wrote:
        >
        > I've got a warble on a flute I'm trying to make that is, unfortunately, tuned about 30 cents sharp of G4 on the fundamental. I was thinking of cutting the length to get to G#4. The sound holes are already burned in, but I have enough wall thickness (about .25 inch) to sharpen the notes. From previous experience, I'm pretty sure I can sharpen the notes by around one step by sanding the "sound hole wall" down to .125 inch. It will at least get me close and then I could widen the holes and/or undercut. My question is this: will I lose the warble if I do the above? I would love to keep the warble. At the risk of sounding crude, I think the warble is badass - very masculine and warlike, much like the bagpipes in my mind.
        >
      • biker_joe_a1
        Howdy Scott I would just tune all tha fingerholes 30 cents sharp and call it Grandfather tuned. I think warble s is badass too Cl;-{P} Blessings BikerJoe
        Message 3 of 5 , Mar 1, 2012
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          Howdy Scott

          I would just tune all tha fingerholes 30 cents sharp and call it Grandfather tuned. I think warble's is badass too Cl;-{P}
          Blessings
          BikerJoe

          --- In nativeflutewoodworking@yahoogroups.com, "ScottV" <scottevines@...> wrote:
          >
          > I've got a warble on a flute I'm trying to make that is, unfortunately, tuned about 30 cents sharp of G4 on the fundamental. I was thinking of cutting the length to get to G#4. The sound holes are already burned in, but I have enough wall thickness (about .25 inch) to sharpen the notes. From previous experience, I'm pretty sure I can sharpen the notes by around one step by sanding the "sound hole wall" down to .125 inch. It will at least get me close and then I could widen the holes and/or undercut. My question is this: will I lose the warble if I do the above? I would love to keep the warble. At the risk of sounding crude, I think the warble is badass - very masculine and warlike, much like the bagpipes in my mind.
          >
        • Michael Jones
          Unless this flute is going to play with other instruments just make it all the same sharpness ... From: ScottV To:
          Message 4 of 5 , Mar 1, 2012
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            Unless this flute is going to play with other instruments just make it all the
            same sharpness



            ----- Original Message ----
            From: ScottV <scottevines@...>
            To: nativeflutewoodworking@yahoogroups.com
            Sent: Thu, March 1, 2012 2:26:04 AM
            Subject: [Native Flute Woodworking] Warble

            I've got a warble on a flute I'm trying to make that is, unfortunately, tuned
            about 30 cents sharp of G4 on the fundamental.  I was thinking of cutting the
            length to get to G#4.  The sound holes are already burned in, but I have enough
            wall thickness (about .25 inch) to sharpen the notes.  From previous experience,
            I'm pretty sure I can sharpen the notes by around one step by sanding the "sound
            hole wall" down to .125 inch.  It will at least get me close and then I could
            widen the holes and/or undercut.  My question is this: will I lose the warble if
            I do the above?  I would love to keep the warble.  At the risk of sounding
            crude, I think the warble is badass - very masculine and warlike, much like the
            bagpipes in my mind.



            ------------------------------------

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          • Barry Higgins
            Ditto on making the best of the tuning within its current range. If the warble is not your thing look at the sound hole ares very closely. It is cool to have
            Message 5 of 5 , Mar 1, 2012
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              Ditto on making the best of the tuning within its current range. If
              the warble is not your thing look at the sound hole ares very closely.
              It is cool to have one in your collection - generally warble flutes
              are so out spoken they are not plated with other instruments so this
              one would be perfect.

              Barry WC

              PS the warble is formed in the wind way / TSH area - If you have a
              warble and want to get RID of it look at the flowing

              Is the wind way flat front to back, does it tip left to right
              If a chimney is part of your design look at the wings too long past
              the edge of the wind way
              Is the splitting edge 90 degrees to the air flow, is it high or low to
              the air stream.
              If the Splitting Edge is beveled is it the same angle/height all the
              way across (if a double bevel top and bottom check both).
              The plains traditionalists say it is not a good flute unless it
              warbles - technically it is because some small detail was over looked.




              On Mar 1, 2012, at 5:40 AM, John E.B. Rawton wrote:

              > Hi Scott, I don't know if the steps you will take will correct the
              > warble, but the the warble was a feature that was considered to be
              > the sign of a good flute. If the flute did not warble it was put
              > aside and not played. I don't know where I read this but I seem to
              > remember that when playing yhe flute, the player would start above
              > the fundamental and conclude with the warble. Cool. I'd keep it, but
              > that's just me.
              >
              > John
              >
              > --- In nativeflutewoodworking@yahoogroups.com, "ScottV"
              > <scottevines@...> wrote:
              > >
              > > I've got a warble on a flute I'm trying to make that is,
              > unfortunately, tuned about 30 cents sharp of G4 on the fundamental.
              > I was thinking of cutting the length to get to G#4. The sound holes
              > are already burned in, but I have enough wall thickness (about .25
              > inch) to sharpen the notes. From previous experience, I'm pretty
              > sure I can sharpen the notes by around one step by sanding the
              > "sound hole wall" down to .125 inch. It will at least get me close
              > and then I could widen the holes and/or undercut. My question is
              > this: will I lose the warble if I do the above? I would love to keep
              > the warble. At the risk of sounding crude, I think the warble is
              > badass - very masculine and warlike, much like the bagpipes in my
              > mind.
              > >
              >
              >



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