Re: Sound Hole
- I've even just glued on a whole new piece of
veneer at the "nest/sound hole" and started that part
over. The depth of the flue makes a big difference.
Yesterday I had a cherry "E" flute with a 1/16th inch deep
flue, breathy and weak, but having just put new knives
in the joiner, I plained off half of that making the
flue only 1/32nd inch deep. Vast improvement. I also
made the flue wider making the sound hole wider as
well, of course....into a rectangle (the width of the
sound hole is twice the length of the sound
hole)...another good improvement. Wider sound holes with shallow
flues on larger flutes deliver the same amount of air
as a deep narrow flue but with a wider flue, more of
that air is delivered to the wider cutting edge(this
sharpens the pitch slightly). More care is needed to fine
tune the cutting edge but the result is a louder
flute, truer tone. With the same effort (or even less
playing effort) more air molecules are set into motion
making waves of pressure (sound waves) in the flute
body. The flute becomes more efficient. Fitting tools
into a short wide sound hole is tricky so care needs
to be taken not to errode the back edge (flue exit).
As this is erroded (or filed on purpose) the sound
goes from tinny to breathy. Try to make only one
change at a time and then test the sound. Making too
many changes at once mixes too many variables and
teaches little about which change produced what effect. I
think I do this kind of testing no less than 20 times
on every flute made. Rarely does it occure that a
sound is perfect on the first attempt.
- There's all kind of drawings with dimensions in the
file section. Just check it out.
--- michael beck wilkins <iain@...>
> all I want is some basic measurements to get goingLarry Odegard
> with, I have a
> lathe so can turn and bore the wood in one piece but
> I desperately
> need drawings with dimensions to get started
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