55951RE: RE: Routing out Finger Holes to Start Over.
- Dec 1, 2013
I expect that after you put the finger holes in, the fundamental will be a little flat. You could add the direction hole back, or enlarge the remaining one northward to bring it back up. If you add the old one, be sure to start small and sneak up on it...
---In email@example.com, <rdbat1@...> wrote:Well, I used Mikes method to route out the finger board and added a spalted alder finger board instead. So this flute is cherry, with a spalted alder finger board and maple burl mouth piece, end cap and fetish. It looks nice unfinished right now, but I am unsure if it will all "tie together" once the clear coat is on.
Before I routed it was an A that had two direction holes. One of the direction holes went with the routing. Formed the spalted alder finger board and glued it on. Shaved it down and put the tuner on it and low and behold it is an A with only one direction hole now! I wondered if something like this would happen...but didn't quite expect it.
So I am heading towards drilling finger holes again! I need to remember to measure 50 times and drill once. I have decided to name this flute after my middle daughter who is beautiful now, but was always a handful when she was young who kept me on my toes and made me work hard.
---In firstname.lastname@example.org, <rdbat1@...> wrote:
Thanks for pointing me to that file Mike. I had a slightly different vision of which way I would route and place the wood on there. Your way is much easier.
---In email@example.com, <rdbat1@...> wrote:I posted this a few minutes before heading out to take my daughter to ballet. I was complaining to her about how I screwed up and I was trying to figure out how to match the inside curve of of the flute with my new piece of wood. My daughter asked how big the hole was. I said it was 3/4". My balerina says, "I don't know what that means, but wouldn't you use that rounded drill thingy on your table deal in the garage to do it?" Mike gave a good translation in his post "use a router to match a cove to the bore curvature."
That was so simple I am embarrassed I didn't think of it.
I am pretty sure I can lay a piece in there pretty tight and if I use some nice contrasting wood I am thinking I can make it look good. If not, I will start over. I really like the TSH I have on this one. Very pure strong sound. My first flute is rich and it doesn't waver and is very easy to play, but this one is even nicer. I have quite grown attached to the sound of this one and felt like it was a quality I would be proud to give as a gift...until the hole problem!!!! So I think I will take a shot at routing out the finger area and putting something nice in there.
---In firstname.lastname@example.org, <moosewinds_mike@...> wrote:
Here are a couple suggestions. Check out
Files/moosewinds_mike files/new fingerboard.jpg
You can use a router to match a cove to the bore curvature by using the same bit you used for the bore if that's how you did it originally.
Also you can just plug the holes and keep the original bore intact, and then inlay a veneer to cover up the mistake.
---In email@example.com, <rdbat1@...> wrote:I screwed up today. Cut my flute to length and drilled direction holes. Decided to drill the finger holes before tuning for fundamental note. Finally turned on the tuner and discovered I had cut it too long and needed to shorten to get the the A I wanted. Did that, redrilled direction holes and it all seemed beautiful. Until I realized that the finger holes were all way too far south and I will need to make them giant to get the needed notes. Not what I wanted seeing is this flute is going to be a gift to a friend who has fairly small fingers. Shoot, I shouldn't have been working on it while I was distracted.
So I saw a thread where someone spoke about routing out the finger holes and adding a new piece of wood in that area to correct their mistakes. I am interested in the process. Basically I am expecting it to be.
1) Use router to route a strip about 10 inches long that gets rid of the screwed up holes. (I plan to use my roouter table to get a straight line etc)
2) Square the corners of routed channel with chisel/file
3) Cut new piece to go in the channel.
My question is here. How are you forming the concave inner part of the new piece? I get how to glue it in place...just having a problem imagining how to form the inside of the new piece.
4) Glue in place using a piece of dowel for backing inside.
Any help here would be much appreciated. I am pretty bummed that I screwed this up. Cutting corners never seems to work out for me. I don't know why I do it then!
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