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paper review 1: elephant hide

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  • Malachi Brown
    Some members of the forums and mailing lists have undertaken a fairly major project of trying to identify and review various papers, here was the first one
    Message 1 of 1 , Dec 3, 2010
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      Some members of the forums and mailing lists have undertaken a fairly
      major project of trying to identify and review various papers, here
      was the first one they have completed, covering elephant hide.

      malachi

      Date: Fri, 03 Dec 2010 08:04:53 +0200
      From: Ilan <garibi@...>
      Subject: [Origami] Paper Review: Introduction and Elephant Hide
      To: "'The Origami Mailing List'" <origami@...>
      Message-ID: <006a01cb92b0$00f22640$02d672c0$@net>
      Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1255

      Hi to all,
      What have started with a simple question and a list of paper properties, has
      become a project - a long exploration journey about paper.
      Please enjoy our first Paper Review - by Ilan Garibi and Gadi Vishne.

      Introduction:

      It may be the most Asked Question, and yet no one suggest a complete and
      total answer to it - what paper should I use (to fold that model)?
      Truth to be said, we will not try to achieve a perfect solution. We will try
      to build a foundation to this effort, and place few bricks based on our
      common experience and the help of some colleagues.
      In order to review a sheet of paper, one must first decide what the
      properties of paper are. Then, with ?Hands on? experience, one must decide
      their value or grade, from low to high (0 to 10). This value is not worst to
      best since each model requires different qualities.?
      Moreover, this is not enough. No point in reviewing Elephant Hide to
      Miniature Unit Origami, or Foil to a wet fold. One should try and say what
      it is good for - to be tessellated, or to fold insects? models - and then
      only judge it.

      There is no bad paper; there is only the wrong model.

      Well, every complex model start with a valley fold, so here we start.

      The properties:

      ?? Paper as a material:

      1. Thickness - in GSM. One cannot say "the thinner the better", if he plans
      to wet fold, so there is no good or bad here, just pure data.
      2. Size - how big can you get it? Smaller sizes can be achieved in any DIY
      way you like, and for many the question is ?is it big enough??
      3. Color palette - from narrow (as with Elephant Hide we have less than 10
      options) to wide (100 colors set of Tant paper). The value is as simple as
      the number of colors choices.
      4. Texture - the feel and look of the surface: smooth, rough, alive, skin
      like, shiny, etc. with two subcategories: Friction - for the use of Modular
      origami; Transparency - for back-light Tessellations. This is an unvalued
      parameter.
      5. Aging - span of life. We would love to know how many years our models
      will stand firm and colorful. Alas, since we do not have life time
      experience to support it by facts, a need for more inputs from readers
      arises!

      ?? Paper as for folding:

      6. Memory - how good it remembers a fold (where aluminum foil gets a value
      of 10 and plastic bag get 0).
      7. Forgiveness - the ability to "erase" a fold line, or to reverse it. Onion
      Skin paper is very hard to reverse-fold, while Elephant Hide is very easy.
      Scale will be from 0 to 10.
      8. Strength - Tear and Wear; does it break up when refolded 3 or 4 times?
      Where Elephant Hide gets lots of points, and Kami will get only 4. It may be
      the number of times till it breaks, if we will have the patience to that
      tedious test. The value will range from 0 to 10.
      9. Tensile strength - some class of folding relies on the tension of the
      paper to hold the shape, we will try to value that on a range from 0 to 10
      (Thanks to David Whitbeck for adding that).

      ?? Bottom line:

      10. Accessibility - Where to buy (please, do not expect a complete list
      here!).
      11. Bottom line - final score.

      This is, of course, an open list, and additions to it are more than welcome.


      The process:

      To value a paper in its Origami sense, one must fold it. In this project,
      each paper is examined by two folders. We will fold the same 6 models, out
      of the presented list of Origami classes:
      1. Traditional use - animals, mostly, but not only - it includes all
      one-sheet classical 2D models. The most traditional model is the crane, of
      course, folded from a 15X15 cm square.
      2. Action model ? Barking Dog, by Gadi Vishne. Although it is simple model,
      it demonstrates the properties of a paper in movement. Size defer by weight:
      ??? a. For heavy papers - 15cm.
      ??? b. For thin paper - 8cm.
      3. Modular/Unit Origami - well, all the models that are based on tabs and
      pockets, inserts and locks, and need more than one sheet to be created. two
      models were chosen:
      ??? a. PowerPuff modular, by Ilan Garibi, made from 30 15X15 cm units.
      ??? b. Sonobe ball, made from 30 8X8 cm units.
      4. Tessellation - one sheet, repeated pattern. Two models were chosen:
      ??? a. Pineapple tessellation, by Ilan Garibi, from a 70X70 cm paper, for
      complex folding and multi layers.
      ??? b. Mystery tessellation by Ilan Garibi, from a 70 X70 cm paper, to see
      transparency and surface behavior.
      5. Complex - insect, ancient dragons, 100 plus stages of folds, entry paper
      size - 25X25 cm. This model must examine multiple layer folds and some
      sinks. The chosen model is the Pegasus, by Satoshi Kamiya, from 2-3 sizes of
      paper - 25X25 cm (the recommended size), 35X35 cm and (if needed) 45X45 cm.
      6. 3D models and Wet Fold - wet folded or not, these include intermediate to
      high models, which have full body, and can stand on their feet. We have
      chosen Fox Terrier by Francisco Javier Caboblanco (20X20 cm) and Eric Joisel
      variation of the Crane or his Rat.

      The list is neither a final nor a closed one. We will allow ourselves to
      divert from it according to the paper specific needs and characteristics. We
      know there are a lot of sub categories to add to this list, as Flowers,
      Jewelry, toys and more, so if needed, specific relevant paper type reviews
      will relate to those, too, in the ?What is it good for? section.

      Review of Elephant Hide (EH):

      Made in Germany, by Zanders? (http://www.zanders.com/), it may be crowned as
      King of Paper.? I tried to get some information on the process and
      ingredients of this paper, but this is privileged information and won?t be
      shared by the manufacture. Its Data Sheet says ?Elephant hide is a rugged
      bookbinding paper with a parchment grain which can be used as a book
      covering paper or for making certificates. It is impregnated and therefore
      scratch and abrasion resistant, dirt repellent, can be wiped clean
      (wet-strength paper), has limited expansion and shrinkage and is not
      sensitive to acid. In addition, it is tear resistant and wrinkle and fold
      resistant as well as color-fast and lightfast.? can we ask for more? It got
      the FSC certificate, so you are helping to save forests by buying it. More
      than that, each sheet is unique, no two sheets are alike.
      Discovered by origamists, it became very popular among them. Here are the
      reasons:
      1. Thickness - today EH comes in 2 options, 110 GSM and 190 GSM. This review
      will focus on the 110 GSM only. Although it is a heavy paper (we regard 100
      GSM as the border line), it is easy to fold and handle.
      2. Sizes - once again, only two options here: 700X1000mm, and A4. There is
      no square option, since it is not Origami-related paper. Of course, one can
      cut any size and shape from 700X1000, but it is a tedious job to prepare 60
      identical units for a modular model.
      3. Colors - The palette is very limited - only 7 colors are listed on the
      site of the manufacture today (3 Dec 2010): White, high White, Ivory, light
      Brown, light Grey, Charcoal, and Black. On Modulor there are 10 colors, but
      out of those ten, the two most colorful ones (Dark Blue and Dark Green) are
      available only at A4 size. In the past there was a bigger variety and I have
      in my personal stock 14 shades, among them the red and blue which are out of
      print. The future is no better - after checking with the manufacture, there
      is no plan to widen the options, and there is no knowledge if there is any
      stock of the obsolete colors in the official distributors. If one would like
      to have a special order, it can be done in any color, size and weight
      wanted, with a minimal order of 5 tons (equal to 64,935 sheets of 700X1000
      or 727,273 of A4).

      See the color palette here:
      http://www.flickr.com/photos/garibiilan/5201456644/

      4. Texture - smooth, since the paper is laminated; the color is not
      homogeneous, and has a beautiful marble-like texture. There is a slight,
      hard to see, difference between the two sides, one of them is a bit more
      reflective. Every sheet is different. Beside the Black, all colors are
      transparent to light in some degree. Best for that are the Whites and the
      light Brown, both have a great effect while back-lighted. Grey and Black are
      hardly transparent, if at all.
      5.? Aging - without acid, and with the special treatment this paper goes
      through, time flows slowly near this paper. I have few models that are 2
      years old - and they look just as new. The manufacture is proud at this
      product durability. Do remember it is used for book binding, which meant to
      last. I have started a fading test, exposing half a tessellation to the
      Israeli sun, to see the effect of time on the grey color. A month after
      there is no visible line between the exposed half and the covered one.
      6. Memory - perfect score here. You make a crease, and it stays, seems
      forever. The creases are sharp, and unfolded creases will create a long bump
      in the paper, easy to feel by touch. 10 out of 10!
      7. Forgiveness - Reversing a fold is easy as tearing up a tissue paper, if
      you go with the grains. It is a bit harder at a perpendicular angle. To err
      is human, and to forgive - divine. If a crease is done a mere millimeter
      from place, one can easily create a new one in the right place, and even
      uncrease the first one with a determined fingernail. Score here is 7 out of
      10.
      8. Strength - this paper is made to last. Bend it, force it, stretch it,
      reverse it, and again, and there is no visible sign of fatigue. To check the
      strength I used a Reverse Fold test - reverse a mountain fold to a valley,
      and repeat again and again, using fingernails for a sharp crease. At 90
      times it got ripples. At 200 times I almost said enough. At 300 times my son
      got impatient with my repetitive movements, snapped it and tear it away...
      For comparison, a Kami was rippled after 9 times and tear apart at 27 times.
      10 out of 10!
      9. Tear and Wear - if you do have a tiny tear in the paper, there is no need
      to be alarmed. It won?t spread easily, the paper is enhanced in some way and
      it seems to be tearing resistant. If it does happen, the fibers can hardly
      be seen at the torn edge.
      10. Tensile strength - this may be a sub category of strength, and it is
      valued just the same. Curved crease are held beautifully, as seen in the
      PowerPuff unit.
      11. Where to buy -
      ??? a. Modulor (Europe, Germany) have a nice site, easy to handle and
      interact: http://www.modulor.de/? .
      ??? b. You can get 6 of the colors at Kim`s Crane (USA) internet shop
      (http://kimscrane.com), with 8 sheets limit per order.
      ??? c. Paper Jade sells the same color palette.
      http://paperjade.com/product_info.php?products_id=772
      ??? d. There are some in Singapore in Fancy Paper, but go to the warehouse
      to get 700X1000 size (No. 120 Genting Lane, Tel: 6748 1268)
      ??? e. In the UK there is Shepherds. See it here: http://www.falkiners.com/

      Test results

      1. Traditional use - The Crane from a 15X15 cm square. It was fun to fold.
      The weight of the paper requires accurate fold, otherwise the beak is not
      sharp as it should.

      See the image here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/garibiilan/5228420798/

      2. Action model ? Barking Dog, by Gadi Vishne. 15cm. This paper gave me the
      best result I (Gadi) ever got with this model. I refold it several times,
      gave it to my 4 years kid, and it still moves very easily. The only
      complaint against this paper is the colors. With this ?both sides same
      color? paper, I had to paint the paper to get different color for the nose.
      I also tried the traditional flapping bird. It is the best paper for this
      model! Folds easily, move symmetrically and won?t tear even if I pull it
      intensely.

      See the Image here:
      http://www.flickr.com/photos/garibiilan/5201564270/in/photostream/
      And the Video:
      http://www.flickr.com/photos/garibiilan/5200977383/in/photostream/

      3. Modular/Unit Origami -
      ?? a. PowerPuff modular, by Ilan Garibi, made from 30 14X14 cm units -
      having to cut it by yourself is a major drawback. I (Ilan) cut it to 14X14
      to fit 5 units in the 70 cm length of the sheet. Folding 30 units with such
      a heavy paper asked for strong finger pressure, but the final result is
      superb. Friction is just enough and the tensile strength is excellent,
      especially with the puffing part of the PowerPuff unit. The final model is
      very stable and strong. Note that this models lock is not based on friction
      but on pressure.

      See the image here:
      http://www.flickr.com/photos/garibiilan/5201467874/in/photostream/

      ?? b. Modular/Unit Origami ? 6 units, 5x5cm. Unknown cube. I (Gadi) saw a
      few weeks ago. This paper is very smooth. The cube breaks into pieces too
      easily. A modular folded from this paper, must have good lock between the
      units or a very tight pocket.

      See the image here:
      http://www.flickr.com/photos/garibiilan/5201488294/in/photostream/

      4. Tessellation - Pineapple and Mystery tessellation, by Ilan Garibi, from a
      70X70 cm paper - this paper is made for tessellators. Folding the grid makes
      a very accurate one, although the paper is a bit hard to fold in
      perpendicular to the grains. Reversing a fold [I (Ilan) make my grid by
      matching every two adjacent creases to create the fold between them, which
      needs a lot of reversing the folds] is quite easy, and the paper tends to
      ?break? on the right place with a bit of pressure.? Pre folding is very
      clean, where short fold lines do not affect the surrounding surface, so the
      final result is uncontaminated. Strength is another strong point, no tearing
      or weakening points, no fibers are showing in the corners.

      http://www.flickr.com/photos/garibiilan/5201504044/in/photostream/

      For the Mystery model, with the light brown, the back light made a great
      effect.

      http://www.flickr.com/photos/garibiilan/5200907153/in/photostream/

      5. Complex - Pegasus, by Satoshi Kamiya, from 2 sizes of paper -
      ??? a. 35X35 cm - The pre-crease was excellent. The final steps hardly
      folded. The final model was so wide that it couldn?t stand on three legs as
      it should. I (Gadi) put the poor Pegasus into a clamp for a night and closed
      it very tight. This paper is not willing to torn! After the night it could
      stand on three legs. Although the folds hold very good and the final model
      look nice, I strongly recommend using thinner paper for complex models.

      Before : http://www.flickr.com/photos/garibiilan/5200984593/in/photostream/
      In clamp: http://www.flickr.com/photos/garibiilan/5200985031/in/photostream/
      In tight clamp:
      http://www.flickr.com/photos/garibiilan/5201577218/in/photostream/
      After: http://www.flickr.com/photos/garibiilan/5201577994/in/photostream/
      (no real Pegasus where heart in this fold)

      ??? b. 45X45 cm - being the inexperienced one with complex models, I (Ilan)
      happily choose the biggest size. Even so, it was a fight! The paper is too
      thick for this model, even at an almost double size than recommended. I
      couldn?t fold the last stages, finalizing the small details, or even to bend
      the front leg, as shown in stage 92. The body is fat, maybe too fat, and
      some glue is needed to hold it together. Nevertheless, the final result is
      beautiful. The Pegasus stand still, wings held up high, in a majestic pose.

      http://www.flickr.com/photos/garibiilan/5201516284/in/photostream/

      6. 3D models - Rat by Joisel, (25X25) and Fox Terrier by Francisco Javier
      Caboblanco (20X20). The Rat mixed straight lines with curved model. In this
      section the focus is on the 3D and curves. To shape the tail I (Gadi) tied
      it in a wet rag and let it dry curved. The result was nice curved tail. The
      ears shaped easily by pinching them in the center. Here the strength of the
      paper was an advantage. It helped to make it rounded.

      http://www.flickr.com/photos/garibiilan/5200953567/in/photostream/

      7. For wet folding, I wet a 20cm square and got a small effect on the
      proportions. Nevertheless the Fox Terrier didn?t suffer from it too much. At
      the end the model was nice and stable. The paper holds the exact amount of
      water I needed. I didn?t have to re-wet it in the middle of the folding, and
      didn?t need to wait for it to get dry at the end.

      http://www.flickr.com/photos/garibiilan/5201488294/in/photostream/

      Final verdict:

      What is it good for? For traditional use, it seems a bit of a blasphemy. For
      tessellations it is no less than perfect, as for 3D models, wet folded or
      not. With complex model you should not consider EH as your first choice, and
      if you do, prepare for a struggle, with an amazing possible result. If you
      have the time and patience for cutting your paper for Modular Origami, EH is
      great, with a very strong and stable result but not for models that are
      connected based on friction! This paper is the best for action models ?
      strong, hold the creases nicely, and it is not going to torn even in small
      kid hands (tested on Gadi?s 4 years old boy).
      Beginner shouldn?t use this paper ? It is too heavy.

      How is it used by the Origami community? Going through Flickr search engine
      after EH images, the vast majority (90%) is tessellations. The other 10% are
      masks and 3D animals, mostly high to intermediate level (and the common one
      is, no surprise here, elephant!). In 749 images there are less than 10
      images of complex models.

      Bottom line - must buy and experience. Full satisfaction guarantee!

      See our summarizing table here:
      http://www.flickr.com/photos/garibiilan/5201007883/in/photostream/

      Our next review will present Tant paper. More to come are Silk/Foil,
      wrapping paper (40 GSM) by Kraft, Onion Skin paper, Kami and more.
      Please write your comments and feedback directly to us:

      Ilan Garibi - garibiilan@...
      Gadi Vishne - gadi@...

      Thanks to Herman Mariano, Larry Hart, Dennis Walker, Jasun Ku and Andrew
      Hudson for helping writing and editing this article.
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