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Re: [multimachine] Re: Digest Number 1004 chole drill

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  • buzz
    Well.... regarding the drill popping through the steel, it actually hadn t occured to me, but would be easily solved by the presence of whatever the
    Message 1 of 5 , Jan 31, 2008
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      Well.... regarding the drill popping through the steel, it actually hadn't occured to me, but would be easily solved by the presence of whatever the construction was sitting on.   
      Clearly it needs to be on a bench/mount/ground/sawhorse or something (it doesn't float in the air), etc, so most of these type of objects will "get in the way" (a good thing), and prevent it just wildly springing through... except for the 'sawhorse' if it/they are positioned to support the work piece, but not the be directly beneath it.   The addition of something as simple as a plank of wood, or a solid bar of steel directly beneath the work piece will resolve that.  
       
      Infact, in the picture/s I made, consider that the piece labeled "work piece" is actually NOT the workpiece, it's the bench, or a support piece, and the workpiece is positioned between it and the drill piece.   
      As a bonus, you could drill much smaller actualy "work piece"s this way too, so long as you can G-clamp them to the larger support structure so that can't rotate.
       
      Do people think that a car spring suspension would allow you to apply sufficient force to the top of the drill thing (or brace-n-bit)?
      Buzz.
      On Feb 1, 2008 4:18 PM, Jeff <jhan5en@...> wrote:

      Buzz

      I'm concerned that the spring could store enough energy to do some
      serious damage when the drill pops through the steel. What do you
      think about a piece of rubber for the compliance and a piece of pipe
      or square tubing for the lever arm.
      My dad has a monstrous old drill that he occasionally uses to drill
      out the ball hole in a pickup bumper (it swings around to the side).
      One time we forgot to block up the bumper from underneath. The auto
      feed on the drill didn't care it just kept slowly compressing the
      springs until it finally popped through. The truck jumped up about 6".
      luckily nobody was leaning on truck!
      Jeff

      --- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, buzz <davidbuzz@...> wrote:
      >
      > I've just posted a cole-drill-variant based on a car suspension spring
      > steel. one of the drawings uses the existing welded-washer idea to
      apply
      > pressure, the other is probably a lower-powered version, and re-uses a
      > traditional hand-tool ( the brace-and-bit ) in conjunction with the
      spring
      > steel and threading to allow it to apply a lot more pressure, so
      that it can
      > drill steel/bigger/better.
      >
      > I've also created an albumn called "cole drill ideas" that people
      can upload
      > pics/etc to if they want:
      > http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/multimachine/photos/browse/10ca
      >
      >
      > Buzz.
      > P.S. I did these drawings in windows "paint" in about 5 minutes, so
      please
      > excuse the crappy styling.
      >


    • Pat Delany
      Buzz Thanks for the great idea! As for the pressure necessary problem, I really don t believe the 1000 lbs. stated in one of the Cole ads. Pat ...
      Message 2 of 5 , Feb 1, 2008
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        Buzz
        Thanks for the great idea! As for the pressure
        necessary problem, I really don't believe the 1000
        lbs. stated in one of the Cole ads.

        Pat

        --- buzz <davidbuzz@...> wrote:

        > Well.... regarding the drill popping through the
        > steel, it actually hadn't
        > occured to me, but would be easily solved by the
        > presence of whatever the
        > construction was sitting on.
        > Clearly it needs to be on a
        > bench/mount/ground/sawhorse or something (it
        > doesn't float in the air), etc, so most of these
        > type of objects will "get
        > in the way" (a good thing), and prevent it just
        > wildly springing through...
        > except for the 'sawhorse' if it/they are positioned
        > to support the work
        > piece, but not the be directly beneath it. The
        > addition of something as
        > simple as a plank of wood, or a solid bar of steel
        > directly beneath the work
        > piece will resolve that.
        >
        > Infact, in the picture/s I made, consider that the
        > piece labeled "work
        > piece" is actually NOT the workpiece, it's the
        > bench, or a support piece,
        > and the workpiece is positioned between it and the
        > drill piece.
        > As a bonus, you could drill much smaller actualy
        > "work piece"s this way too,
        > so long as you can G-clamp them to the larger
        > support structure so that
        > can't rotate.
        >
        > Do people think that a car spring suspension would
        > allow you to apply
        > sufficient force to the top of the drill thing (or
        > brace-n-bit)?
        > Buzz.
        > On Feb 1, 2008 4:18 PM, Jeff <jhan5en@...>
        > wrote:
        >
        > > Buzz
        > >
        > > I'm concerned that the spring could store enough
        > energy to do some
        > > serious damage when the drill pops through the
        > steel. What do you
        > > think about a piece of rubber for the compliance
        > and a piece of pipe
        > > or square tubing for the lever arm.
        > > My dad has a monstrous old drill that he
        > occasionally uses to drill
        > > out the ball hole in a pickup bumper (it swings
        > around to the side).
        > > One time we forgot to block up the bumper from
        > underneath. The auto
        > > feed on the drill didn't care it just kept slowly
        > compressing the
        > > springs until it finally popped through. The truck
        > jumped up about 6".
        > > luckily nobody was leaning on truck!
        > > Jeff
        > >
        > > --- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com
        > <multimachine%40yahoogroups.com>, buzz
        > > <davidbuzz@...> wrote:
        > > >
        > > > I've just posted a cole-drill-variant based on a
        > car suspension spring
        > > > steel. one of the drawings uses the existing
        > welded-washer idea to
        > > apply
        > > > pressure, the other is probably a lower-powered
        > version, and re-uses a
        > > > traditional hand-tool ( the brace-and-bit ) in
        > conjunction with the
        > > spring
        > > > steel and threading to allow it to apply a lot
        > more pressure, so
        > > that it can
        > > > drill steel/bigger/better.
        > > >
        > > > I've also created an albumn called "cole drill
        > ideas" that people
        > > can upload
        > > > pics/etc to if they want:
        > > >
        >
        http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/multimachine/photos/browse/10ca
        > > >
        > > >
        > > > Buzz.
        > > > P.S. I did these drawings in windows "paint" in
        > about 5 minutes, so
        > > please
        > > > excuse the crappy styling.
        > > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        >



        ____________________________________________________________________________________
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      • Jeff
        Buzz Don t build that thing it could seriously hurt someone. Car springs can easily generate more than 2000 lbs of force and it will go somewhere when that bit
        Message 3 of 5 , Feb 1, 2008
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          Buzz

          Don't build that thing it could seriously hurt someone. Car springs
          can easily generate more than 2000 lbs of force and it will go
          somewhere when that bit pops through. At least replace the C clamp
          with something that won't slip off and take your head off as it pivots
          around the tension screw.
          Jeff

          --- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, Pat Delany <rigmatch@...> wrote:
          >
          > Buzz
          > Thanks for the great idea! As for the pressure
          > necessary problem, I really don't believe the 1000
          > lbs. stated in one of the Cole ads.
          >
          > Pat
          >
          > --- buzz <davidbuzz@...> wrote:
          >
          > > Well.... regarding the drill popping through the
          > > steel, it actually hadn't
          > > occured to me, but would be easily solved by the
          > > presence of whatever the
          > > construction was sitting on.
          > > Clearly it needs to be on a
          > > bench/mount/ground/sawhorse or something (it
          > > doesn't float in the air), etc, so most of these
          > > type of objects will "get
          > > in the way" (a good thing), and prevent it just
          > > wildly springing through...
          > > except for the 'sawhorse' if it/they are positioned
          > > to support the work
          > > piece, but not the be directly beneath it. The
          > > addition of something as
          > > simple as a plank of wood, or a solid bar of steel
          > > directly beneath the work
          > > piece will resolve that.
          > >
          > > Infact, in the picture/s I made, consider that the
          > > piece labeled "work
          > > piece" is actually NOT the workpiece, it's the
          > > bench, or a support piece,
          > > and the workpiece is positioned between it and the
          > > drill piece.
          > > As a bonus, you could drill much smaller actualy
          > > "work piece"s this way too,
          > > so long as you can G-clamp them to the larger
          > > support structure so that
          > > can't rotate.
          > >
          > > Do people think that a car spring suspension would
          > > allow you to apply
          > > sufficient force to the top of the drill thing (or
          > > brace-n-bit)?
          > > Buzz.
          > > On Feb 1, 2008 4:18 PM, Jeff <jhan5en@...>
          > > wrote:
          > >
          > > > Buzz
          > > >
          > > > I'm concerned that the spring could store enough
          > > energy to do some
          > > > serious damage when the drill pops through the
          > > steel. What do you
          > > > think about a piece of rubber for the compliance
          > > and a piece of pipe
          > > > or square tubing for the lever arm.
          > > > My dad has a monstrous old drill that he
          > > occasionally uses to drill
          > > > out the ball hole in a pickup bumper (it swings
          > > around to the side).
          > > > One time we forgot to block up the bumper from
          > > underneath. The auto
          > > > feed on the drill didn't care it just kept slowly
          > > compressing the
          > > > springs until it finally popped through. The truck
          > > jumped up about 6".
          > > > luckily nobody was leaning on truck!
          > > > Jeff
          > > >
          > > > --- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com
          > > <multimachine%40yahoogroups.com>, buzz
          > > > <davidbuzz@> wrote:
          > > > >
          > > > > I've just posted a cole-drill-variant based on a
          > > car suspension spring
          > > > > steel. one of the drawings uses the existing
          > > welded-washer idea to
          > > > apply
          > > > > pressure, the other is probably a lower-powered
          > > version, and re-uses a
          > > > > traditional hand-tool ( the brace-and-bit ) in
          > > conjunction with the
          > > > spring
          > > > > steel and threading to allow it to apply a lot
          > > more pressure, so
          > > > that it can
          > > > > drill steel/bigger/better.
          > > > >
          > > > > I've also created an albumn called "cole drill
          > > ideas" that people
          > > > can upload
          > > > > pics/etc to if they want:
          > > > >
          > >
          > http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/multimachine/photos/browse/10ca
          > > > >
          > > > >
          > > > > Buzz.
          > > > > P.S. I did these drawings in windows "paint" in
          > > about 5 minutes, so
          > > > please
          > > > > excuse the crappy styling.
          > > > >
          > > >
          > > >
          > > >
          > >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          ____________________________________________________________________________________
          > Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
          > http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
          >
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