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Re: [multimachine] Re: worn engine question

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  • David G. LeVine
    ... You don t, that s the beauty of it. The one mounted on the block is a hunk of greased wood if you want. The biggest issue if the mounting -- which can
    Message 1 of 13 , May 9, 2007
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      >What do you use to accurately machine the end parts?

      You don't, that's the beauty of it. The one mounted on the block is
      a hunk of greased wood if you want. The biggest issue if the
      mounting -- which can also be a hunk of greased wood (they only need
      to run a few hours total!) For axial loads, a couple of shaft collars.

      >How do adjust the depth of the cut?

      The gauge is a hunk of "U" shaped stock with an inside dimension
      slightly (.050 or so) larger than 1/2 the bore plus 1/2 the shaft
      diameter. The bit is held in place by a setscrew or just a bolt
      <GRIN>. The gauge has a gap between two pieces of the "ear" on the
      side which goes around the shaft big enough that the bit doesn't touch it.

      The gauge is put over the shaft and bit with feeler gauges between
      the bit and the gauge, push on the bit and snug the set screw.

      Run a test cut. Not enough metal removal? Use less feeler stock and repeat.

      --- top of gauge
      |O shaft
      | | bit
      L--Shim stock goes here

      - - Ear with gap
      ||||
      --- Ear with no gap
      >How do you feed the cutter so that It will cut smoothly and not chatter?

      Remember the XY table that is on the bed? If you get really silly, a
      big "O" ring from the shaft could do it.

      >How do you bore a 6" deep hole so that it will have the same dimension
      >of each end?

      Assuming a straight shaft and reasonable bearings, it can't do
      otherwise. Besides, the bore is alerady there, the cuts need only be
      as deep as the bearings need.

      >I have an old book that shows several boring heads like this and they
      >all are pretty complex devices. Boring steam cylinders was extremely
      >common at one time.

      Yep, and this is the simplified version <GRIN>.

      >I still think that using epoxy putty to "bed" home cast bushings in a
      >worn engine cylinder bore is a vaild"poor boy" solution. I really want
      >a bunch of ideas about this since I need to have a new version of the
      >"book" before the PM article comes out.

      That is one approach. Epoxy filled with granite for bearing mounts
      (see the CNCZONE threads on granite epoxy) is another good
      choice. DO NOT USE CONCRETE, it shrinks.

      David G. LeVine
      Nashua, NH 03060
    • keith gutshall
      Hello David How about the pillow blocks from one of the reduction shafts? Mount them on the table and line them up for the shaft.You could get one of the cheap
      Message 2 of 13 , May 9, 2007
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        Hello David
         How about the pillow blocks from one of the reduction shafts?
         Mount them on the table and line them up for the shaft.You could get one of the cheap bronze bushing for the bottom end , if you do not like the idea for the wood? It could fit in the wood.
         Keith

        "David G. LeVine" <dlevine@...> wrote:

        >What do you use to accurately machine the end parts?

        You don't, that's the beauty of it. The one mounted on the block is
        a hunk of greased wood if you want. The biggest issue if the
        mounting -- which can also be a hunk of greased wood (they only need
        to run a few hours total!) For axial loads, a couple of shaft collars.

        >How do adjust the depth of the cut?

        The gauge is a hunk of "U" shaped stock with an inside dimension
        slightly (.050 or so) larger than 1/2 the bore plus 1/2 the shaft
        diameter. The bit is held in place by a setscrew or just a bolt
        <GRIN>. The gauge has a gap between two pieces of the "ear" on the
        side which goes around the shaft big enough that the bit doesn't touch it.

        The gauge is put over the shaft and bit with feeler gauges between
        the bit and the gauge, push on the bit and snug the set screw.

        Run a test cut. Not enough metal removal? Use less feeler stock and repeat.

        --- top of gauge
        |O shaft
        | | bit
        L--Shim stock goes here

        - - Ear with gap
        ||||
        --- Ear with no gap
        >How do you feed the cutter so that It will cut smoothly and not chatter?

        Remember the XY table that is on the bed? If you get really silly, a
        big "O" ring from the shaft could do it.

        >How do you bore a 6" deep hole so that it will have the same dimension
        >of each end?

        Assuming a straight shaft and reasonable bearings, it can't do
        otherwise. Besides, the bore is alerady there, the cuts need only be
        as deep as the bearings need.

        >I have an old book that shows several boring heads like this and they
        >all are pretty complex devices. Boring steam cylinders was extremely
        >common at one time.

        Yep, and this is the simplified version <GRIN>.

        >I still think that using epoxy putty to "bed" home cast bushings in a
        >worn engine cylinder bore is a vaild"poor boy" solution. I really want
        >a bunch of ideas about this since I need to have a new version of the
        >"book" before the PM article comes out.

        That is one approach. Epoxy filled with granite for bearing mounts
        (see the CNCZONE threads on granite epoxy) is another good
        choice. DO NOT USE CONCRETE, it shrinks.

        David G. LeVine
        Nashua, NH 03060




        Deep Run Portage
        Back Shop
        " The Lizard Works"


        Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
        Check out new cars at Yahoo! Autos.

      • David G. LeVine
        ... Keith, Good call, I did not make the assumption that a pillow block was available, however if it is, it is a great choice. David G. LeVine Nashua, NH
        Message 3 of 13 , May 9, 2007
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          At 04:50 PM 5/9/2007, you wrote:

          >Hello David
          > How about the pillow blocks from one of the reduction shafts?
          > Mount them on the table and line them up for the shaft.You could
          > get one of the cheap bronze bushing for the bottom end , if you do
          > not like the idea for the wood? It could fit in the wood.

          Keith,

          Good call, I did not make the assumption that a pillow block was
          available, however if it is, it is a great choice.


          David G. LeVine
          Nashua, NH 03060
        • drpshops
          ... do ... Hello David Sometimes the simplest tooling /idea works the best. Keith
          Message 4 of 13 , May 9, 2007
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            --- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, "David G. LeVine" <dlevine@...>
            wrote:
            >
            > At 04:50 PM 5/9/2007, you wrote:
            >
            > >Hello David
            > > How about the pillow blocks from one of the reduction shafts?
            > > Mount them on the table and line them up for the shaft.You could
            > > get one of the cheap bronze bushing for the bottom end , if you
            do
            > > not like the idea for the wood? It could fit in the wood.
            >
            > Keith,
            >
            > Good call, I did not make the assumption that a pillow block was
            > available, however if it is, it is a great choice.
            >
            >
            > David G. LeVine
            > Nashua, NH 03060
            >
            Hello David
            Sometimes the simplest tooling /idea works the best.
            Keith
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