Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

Re: lineboring

Expand Messages
  • kwolson2002
    Theo - I don t think I ve ever seen these before. What does the pattern/fluting look like, i.e., what is the cross-section of the groove(s), are they parallel
    Message 1 of 10 , May 2, 2006
    • 0 Attachment
      Theo -

      I don't think I've ever seen these before. What does the
      pattern/fluting look like, i.e., what is the cross-section of the
      groove(s), are they parallel to the axis of the roller or helical,
      parallel to each other or crossed like knurling, etc.?

      Offhand, I'm guessing this could be accomplished with a lathe, mill,
      or planer (even a shaper for short rolls), depending on the exact
      configuration of the grooves and the available machinery.

      Kevin

      --- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, "isabel taylor" <bellabok@...> wrote:
      >
      > Hi!
      > Can anyone tell me what is the pattern called (fluting?) on the steel
      > rollers used to grind maize?
      >
      > Also what machines are need't to do the job?
      > Regards.
      > Theo
      >
      >
      > On 4/25/06, Jeff <jhan5en@...> wrote:
      > >
      > > Theo
      > >
      > > occasionaly my dad buys a loader with a gutted bucket so I know what
      > > your in for. Is your boring bar long enough to get through both
      > > holes? Dad usualy has two new pieces of steel turned to accept the
      > > hardened factory bushings, cuts the old ones out and welds the new
      > > oversized pieces in. no boring necessary. Since you have built a
      > > boring bar I would weld in the new undersized pieces and bore to fit
      > > the new bushings.
      > > Jeff
      > >
      > > --- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, "kwolson2002" <kwayneolson@>
      > >
      > > wrote:
      > > >
      > > > Theo -
      > > >
      > > > If the holes are hoplessly mangled beyond any possibility of using
      > > > them for locating the conical bushings to center the boring bar,
      > > can
      > > > you use the edge of the bucket or some other relatively undamaged
      > > > reference surface for both holes? Maybe you can fab identical (or
      > > > mirror image, if necessary) brackets to hold dead centers in line,
      > > > one for each hole; they can support the bar at each end, outboard
      > > of
      > > > the bucket's pivot holes. This will necessitate the use of a
      > > > travelling head, as the dead centers will be brought up snug to the
      > > > bar ends. Have a look here:
      > > >
      > > >
      > > http://f2.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/gGZNRCWek1IgaMElcv7DljhCVBFBfhn1R2eOPO2QS
      > > > KkLWP-MF7wUWFzF0ODM_jHktHpbsdvT_AToqq_iz50voDrkM_cFnRYw5tc/Boring%
      > > > 20Bar%20Ideas/BB_Star_Feed.gif
      > > >
      > > > in the Multimachine_library Files for an example of a crude, but
      > > > effective, head drive, using a lead screw (threaded rod), star
      > > wheel
      > > > and trip pin. The lead screw is carried in bearings _outside_ the
      > > > periphery of the bar, where it's exposed, but easier to fab up. The
      > > > example shows taper boring in a lathe with the bar between centers,
      > > > but pretty obvious adjustments will allow straight turning. By
      > > using
      > > > the trip pin to drive the head, you only have to drive the
      > > bar 'round
      > > > and 'round, by hand, belt drive, etc. Position the screw and its
      > > > bearings so that it pushes the boring head (and cutter) through
      > > each
      > > > hole, far enough back (and close enough to the bar) that the screw
      > > > can't foul your freshly-made bore before the tool clears the far
      > > end.
      > > > Re-position the head, or use a second head if you're afraid of
      > > losing
      > > > the center locations, to machine the other bore(s).
      > > >
      > > > I hope this helps, somehow.
      > > >
      > > > Kevin
      > > >
      > > > --- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, "Jeff" <jhan5en@> wrote:
      > > > >
      > > > > Theo
      > > > >
      > > > > The good news is that it's just a bucket! +- 1/4" should be fine.
      > > > You
      > > > > can also make some temporary bushings to push into the egged out
      > > > > holes to help square up the shoulder for the cones. A final check
      > > > is
      > > > > to put in the cutter and rotate it in the bore checking the
      > > > clearance
      > > > > to the walls kind of like setting up a four jaw chuck. Adjust
      > > > left /
      > > > > right then top / bottom. You can probably find some place
      > > > reasonably
      > > > > round near the middle. Does your drill have a power feed?
      > > > > Jeff
      > > > >
      > > > > --- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, "isabel taylor" <bellabok@>
      > > > > wrote:
      > > > > >
      > > > > > Hi! Jeff
      > > > > > Sorry I took so long to get back to you but have been busy
      > > trying
      > > > > out your
      > > > > > advice.
      > > > > >
      > > > > > Have made the cones & 35mm boring bar, I am using a magnetic
      > > > drill
      > > > > to drive
      > > > > > the boring bar and have made a universal swivel type fitting to
      > > > > connect the
      > > > > > boring bar to the drill. I have drilled 10mm holes into the
      > > > boring
      > > > > bar at
      > > > > > various places with a another 6mm threaded hole from the side
      > > > that
      > > > > I will
      > > > > > use to lock the 10mm boring tool in place with.
      > > > > >
      > > > > > I have some old earth moving equipment (front end loader) that
      > > > > needs bushes
      > > > > > fitted to front bucket. The holes are badly worn ( totally oval
      > > &
      > > > > jagged)
      > > > > > so I need to machine the holes to enable me to fit new bushes.
      > > > > (Vesconite?)
      > > > > > I have made plates that have flanged bearings bolted to
      > > them.The
      > > > > flanged
      > > > > > bearings can also swivel.
      > > > > >
      > > > > > My problem is that the 3 holes that need to be machined on the
      > > > > bucket are
      > > > > > aprox. 1.1/2 metres apart and when I have finished machining
      > > the
      > > > > holes they
      > > > > > must be 100% in line. The idea is to weld the plates with the
      > > > > flanged
      > > > > > bearings to the ends of the bucket and to use the cones to line
      > > > > these holes
      > > > > > up properly.
      > > > > >
      > > > > > I am not sure about the cones lining the holes up 100%!
      > > > > >
      > > > > > Any susgestions etc. are welcome
      > > > > > Theo.
      > > > > >
      > > > > > On 3/16/06, Jeff <jhan5en@> wrote:
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > > Theo
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > > The cones have an ID the same as your boring bar "slip fit"
      > > and
      > > > > > > the OD is something larger than the bore of the engine.
      > > > > > > The angle is not critical 45 deg +- 15 deg. The cones are
      > > placed
      > > > > > > on the shaft and slid into the bore until they lock in and
      > > stop
      > > > > > > moving. turn them in one operation without rechucking.
      > > > > > > The finished bore depends on what bearing you find to use on
      > > the
      > > > > > > spindle. Don't be afraid to leave the bore a few thousandths
      > > > small
      > > > > > > and thermally shrink the bearing to get it to fit. There is a
      > > > > > > sketch under Jeff's sketches that shows how to do it in wood,
      > > > > > > steel plates and a drill are obviously better.
      > > > > > > Search for boring bar on the web to get a few examples of how
      > > it
      > > > > > > should work.
      > > > > > > If you have access to a lathe and a dial indicator you might
      > > > > > > think about mounting the bearings in lathe turned plates that
      > > > > > > bolt to the front and to the back of the block. Use the dial
      > > > > > > indicator to sweep the block face and kick the rear bearing
      > > > > > > around until it runs parallel.
      > > > > > > Jeff
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > > --- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, "trixie.ruby "
      > > > <trixie.ruby@>
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > > wrote:
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > Hi!
      > > > > > > > I am new to the site.
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > I wonder if anyone can let me have detailed description of
      > > > how
      > > > > to
      > > > > > > go
      > > > > > > > about centering up to do a lineboring job with a portable
      > > > home
      > > > > > > made
      > > > > > > > line bore.
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > I used a magnetic press drill & connected a 50mm shaft to
      > > the
      > > > > > > drill
      > > > > > > > with universal self alinging coupling. Driiled holes in
      > > shaft
      > > > to
      > > > > > > take
      > > > > > > > a boring bar, with bolt to lock boring bar in place.
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > Someone said i should use self alinging cones for centering?
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > If i use self alinging cones i will make them myself on a
      > > > lathe,
      > > > > > > what
      > > > > > > > sizes must i make and what taper must i use?
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > How would i go about meassuring the hole i want to line
      > > bore
      > > > and
      > > > > > > that
      > > > > > > > my size is correct when i am finished
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > All information & susgestions will be highly appreciated
      > > > > > > > Thank you
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > > > Theo
      > > > > > > >
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > > SPONSORED LINKS
      > > > > > > Machine tool<http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?
      > > > >
      > > >
      > > t=ms&k=Machine+tool&w1=Machine+tool&w2=Welding+machines&w3=Craft&w4=Ma
      > > > >
      > > >
      > > chine+design&w5=Water+well+pump&w6=Vehicle+part&c=6&s=110&.sig=y_Jdjkm
      > > > > 7f0RBOx2ayhXgEw> Welding
      > > > > > > machines<http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?
      > > > >
      > > >
      > > t=ms&k=Welding+machines&w1=Machine+tool&w2=Welding+machines&w3=Craft&w
      > > > >
      > > >
      > > 4=Machine+design&w5=Water+well+pump&w6=Vehicle+part&c=6&s=110&.sig=0d_
      > > > > mi6fRyRTUG0D7cHs7Ig>
      > > > > > > Craft<http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?
      > > > >
      > > >
      > > t=ms&k=Craft&w1=Machine+tool&w2=Welding+machines&w3=Craft&w4=Machine+d
      > > > >
      > > >
      > > esign&w5=Water+well+pump&w6=Vehicle+part&c=6&s=110&.sig=HkJlGzvi7iJ3w5
      > > > > 4Gnx2B3g> Machine
      > > > > > > design<http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?
      > > > >
      > > >
      > > t=ms&k=Machine+design&w1=Machine+tool&w2=Welding+machines&w3=Craft&w4=
      > > > >
      > > >
      > > Machine+design&w5=Water+well+pump&w6=Vehicle+part&c=6&s=110&.sig=kQgCJ
      > > > > zeZb5hg0fL-K5f0Aw> Water
      > > > > > > well pump<http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?
      > > > >
      > > >
      > > t=ms&k=Water+well+pump&w1=Machine+tool&w2=Welding+machines&w3=Craft&w4
      > > > >
      > > >
      > > =Machine+design&w5=Water+well+pump&w6=Vehicle+part&c=6&s=110&.sig=mntM
      > > > > sCMxy0sUKIC5N8YzZw> Vehicle
      > > > > > > part<http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?
      > > > >
      > > >
      > > t=ms&k=Vehicle+part&w1=Machine+tool&w2=Welding+machines&w3=Craft&w4=Ma
      > > > >
      > > >
      > > chine+design&w5=Water+well+pump&w6=Vehicle+part&c=6&s=110&.sig=ae8VN5-
      > > > > E1jakFLXs-D-pLA>
      > > > > > > ------------------------------
      > > > > > > YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > > - Visit your
      > > > > group "multimachine<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/multimachine>"
      > > > > > > on the web.
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > > - To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
      > > > > > > multimachine-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com<multimachine-
      > > > >
      unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe<http://unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com/?subject=Unsubscribe>
      > > >
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > > - Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo!
      > > Terms
      > > > of
      > > > > > > Service <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > >
      > > > > > > ------------------------------
      > > > > > >
      > > > > >
      > > > > >
      > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      > > > > >
      > > > >
      > > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > > ------------------------------
      > > YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
      > >
      > >
      > > - Visit your group
      "multimachine<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/multimachine>"
      > > on the web.
      > >
      > > - To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
      > >
      multimachine-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com<multimachine-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe>
      > >
      > > - Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
      > > Service <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.
      > >
      > >
      > > ------------------------------
      > >
      >
      >
      > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      >
    • Trevor Engele
      ... From: kwolson2002 [mailto:kwayneolson@hotmail.com] Sent: Monday, April 24, 2006 7:19 PM To: multimachine@yahoogroups.com Subject: [multimachine] Re:
      Message 2 of 10 , Jun 14, 2006
      • 0 Attachment
         
        -----Original Message-----
        From: kwolson2002 [mailto:kwayneolson@...]
        Sent: Monday, April 24, 2006 7:19 PM
        To: multimachine@yahoogroups.com
        Subject: [multimachine] Re: lineboring

        Theo -

        If the holes are hoplessly mangled beyond any possibility of using
        them for locating the conical bushings to center the boring bar, can
        you use the edge of the bucket or some other relatively undamaged
        reference surface for both holes? Maybe you can fab identical (or
        mirror image, if necessary) brackets to hold dead centers in line,
        one for each hole; they can support the bar at each end, outboard of
        the bucket's pivot holes. This will necessitate the use of a
        travelling head, as the dead centers will be brought up snug to the
        bar ends. Have a look here:

        http://f2.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/gGZNRCWek1IgaMElcv7DljhCVBFBfhn1R2eOPO2QSKkLWP-0ODM_jHktHpbsdvT_AToqq_iz50voDrkM_cFnRYw5tc/Boring%20Bar%20Ideas/BB_Star_Feed.gif

        in the Multimachine_library Files for an example of a crude, but
        effective, head drive, using a lead screw (threaded rod), star wheel
        and trip pin. The lead screw is carried in bearings _outside_ the
        periphery of the bar, where it's exposed, but easier to fab up. The
        example shows taper boring in a lathe with the bar between centers,
        but pretty obvious adjustments will allow straight turning. By using
        the trip pin to drive the head, you only have to drive the bar 'round
        and 'round, by hand, belt drive, etc. Position the screw and its
        bearings so that it pushes the boring head (and cutter) through each
        hole, far enough back (and close enough to the bar) that the screw
        can't foul your freshly-made bore before the tool clears the far end.
        Re-position the head, or use a second head if you're afraid of losing
        the center locations, to machine the other bore(s).

        I hope this helps, somehow.

        Kevin

        --- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, "Jeff" <jhan5en@...> wrote:
        >
        > Theo
        >
        > The good news is that it's just a bucket! +- 1/4" should be fine.
        You
        > can also make some temporary bushings to push into the egged out
        > holes to help square up the shoulder for the cones. A final check
        is
        > to put in the cutter and rotate it in the bore checking the
        clearance
        > to the walls kind of like setting up a four jaw chuck. Adjust
        left /
        > right then top / bottom. You can probably find some place
        reasonably
        > round near the middle. Does your drill have a power feed?
        > Jeff
        >
        > --- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, "isabel taylor" <bellabok@>
        > wrote:
        > >
        > > Hi! Jeff
        > > Sorry I took so long to get back to you but have been busy trying
        > out your
        > > advice.
        > >
        > > Have made the cones & 35mm boring bar, I am using a magnetic
        drill
        > to drive
        > > the boring bar and have made a universal swivel type fitting to
        > connect the
        > > boring bar to the drill. I have drilled 10mm holes into the
        boring
        > bar at
        > > various places with a another 6mm threaded hole from the side
        that
        > I will
        > > use to lock the 10mm boring tool in place with.
        > >
        > > I have some old earth moving equipment (front end loader) that
        > needs bushes
        > > fitted to front bucket. The holes are badly worn ( totally oval &
        > jagged)
        > > so I need to machine the holes to enable me to fit new bushes.
        > (Vesconite?)
        > > I have made plates that have flanged bearings bolted to them.The
        > flanged
        > > bearings can also swivel.
        > >
        > > My problem is that the 3 holes that need to be machined on the
        > bucket are
        > > aprox. 1.1/2 metres apart and when I have finished machining the
        > holes they
        > > must be 100% in line. The idea is to weld the plates with the
        > flanged
        > > bearings to the ends of the bucket and to use the cones to line
        > these holes
        > > up properly.
        > >
        > > I am not sure about the cones lining the holes up 100%!
        > >
        > > Any susgestions etc. are welcome
        > > Theo.
        > >
        > > On 3/16/06, Jeff <jhan5en@> wrote:
        > > >
        > > > Theo
        > > >
        > > > The cones have an ID the same as your boring bar "slip fit" and
        > > > the OD is something larger than the bore of the engine.
        > > > The angle is not critical 45 deg +- 15 deg. The cones are placed
        > > > on the shaft and slid into the bore until they lock in and stop
        > > > moving. turn them in one operation without rechucking.
        > > > The finished bore depends on what bearing you find to use on the
        > > > spindle. Don't be afraid to leave the bore a few thousandths
        small
        > > > and thermally shrink the bearing to get it to fit. There is a
        > > > sketch under Jeff's sketches that shows how to do it in wood,
        > > > steel plates and a drill are obviously better.
        > > > Search for boring bar on the web to get a few examples of how it
        > > > should work.
        > > > If you have access to a lathe and a dial indicator you might
        > > > think about mounting the bearings in lathe turned plates that
        > > > bolt to the front and to the back of the block. Use the dial
        > > > indicator to sweep the block face and kick the rear bearing
        > > > around until it runs parallel.
        > > > Jeff
        > > >
        > > > --- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, "trixie.ruby "
        <trixie.ruby@>
        > > >
        > > > wrote:
        > > > >
        > > > > Hi!
        > > > > I am new to the site.
        > > > >
        > > > > I wonder if anyone can let me have detailed description of
        how
        > to
        > > > go
        > > > > about centering  up to do a lineboring job with a portable
        home
        > > > made
        > > > > line bore.
        > > > >
        > > > > I used a magnetic press drill & connected a 50mm shaft to the
        > > > drill
        > > > > with universal self alinging coupling. Driiled holes in shaft
        to
        > > > take
        > > > > a boring bar, with bolt to lock boring bar in place.
        > > > >
        > > > > Someone said i should use self alinging cones for centering?
        > > > >
        > > > > If i use self alinging cones i will make them myself on a
        lathe,
        > > > what
        > > > > sizes must i make and what taper must i use?
        > > > >
        > > > > How would i go about meassuring the hole i want to line bore
        and
        > > > that
        > > > > my size is correct when i am finished
        > > > >
        > > > > All information & susgestions will be highly appreciated
        > > > > Thank you
        > > > >
        > > > > Theo
        > > > >
        > > >
        > > >
        > > >
        > > >
        > > >
        > > >
        > > > SPONSORED LINKS
        > > >   Machine tool<http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?
        >
        t=ms&k=Machine+tool&w1=Machine+tool&w2=Welding+machines&w3=Craft&w4=Ma
        >
        chine+design&w5=Water+well+pump&w6=Vehicle+part&c=6&s=110&.sig=y_Jdjkm
        > 7f0RBOx2ayhXgEw> Welding
        > > > machines<http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?
        >
        t=ms&k=Welding+machines&w1=Machine+tool&w2=Welding+machines&w3=Craft&w
        >
        4=Machine+design&w5=Water+well+pump&w6=Vehicle+part&c=6&s=110&.sig=0d_
        > mi6fRyRTUG0D7cHs7Ig>
        > > > Craft<http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?
        >
        t=ms&k=Craft&w1=Machine+tool&w2=Welding+machines&w3=Craft&w4=Machine+d
        >
        esign&w5=Water+well+pump&w6=Vehicle+part&c=6&s=110&.sig=HkJlGzvi7iJ3w5
        > 4Gnx2B3g>  Machine
        > > > design<http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?
        >
        t=ms&k=Machine+design&w1=Machine+tool&w2=Welding+machines&w3=Craft&w4=
        >
        Machine+design&w5=Water+well+pump&w6=Vehicle+part&c=6&s=110&.sig=kQgCJ
        > zeZb5hg0fL-K5f0Aw> Water
        > > > well pump<http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?
        >
        t=ms&k=Water+well+pump&w1=Machine+tool&w2=Welding+machines&w3=Craft&w4
        >
        =Machine+design&w5=Water+well+pump&w6=Vehicle+part&c=6&s=110&.sig=mntM
        > sCMxy0sUKIC5N8YzZw> Vehicle
        > > > part<http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?
        >
        t=ms&k=Vehicle+part&w1=Machine+tool&w2=Welding+machines&w3=Craft&w4=Ma
        >
        chine+design&w5=Water+well+pump&w6=Vehicle+part&c=6&s=110&.sig=ae8VN5-
        > E1jakFLXs-D-pLA>
        > > >  ------------------------------
        > > > YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
        > > >
        > > >
        > > >    -  Visit your
        > group "multimachine<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/multimachine>"
        > > >    on the web.
        > > >
        > > >    -  To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
        > > >      multimachine-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com<multimachine-
        > unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe>
        > > >
        > > >    -  Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms
        of
        > > >    Service <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.
        > > >
        > > >
        > > >  ------------------------------
        > > >
        > >
        > >
        > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        > >
        >




      Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.