- ... Good idea! If the pipe is clean and tinned, any solder (lead) alloy, like Babbitt, should be good enough, and by heating the pipe well above solderMessage 1 of 49 , Aug 31, 2013View SourceOn 08/31/2013 12:07 PM, Chris Tofu wrote:
> What about filling the pipe with some sort of molten metal, even aluminum? If it shrank (hopefully) you could remove it, apply an adhesive and reinsert it.Good idea! If the pipe is clean and tinned, any solder (lead) alloy,
like Babbitt, should be good enough, and by heating the pipe well above
solder melting temperatures, it should bond well. Additionally, any soft
metal should be easy to drill and tap, the steel pipe holding the
fastener's threads, the extended hole meaning the bolt will be properly
tensioned and not jammed into the middle of the pipe.
In an ideal world, use of STI taps and inserts would hold the pipe/metal
together. STI is LIKE Helicoils, but is an industry standard. The STI
starts with an oversized hole being bored (in this case in the pipe and
soft metal) into the substrate, tapped the length of the insert, plus a
small amount, the insert being threaded into the hole and a tang being
broken off. When the bolt is threaded into the insert, the area beyond
the end is over the thread major diameter and doesn't interfere with
tightening, the threaded area is usually MUCH stronger than the base metals!
There are plenty of other threaded insert technologies, but I don't need
to write a book today.
See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Threaded_insert and
http://www.stanleyengineeredfastening.com/brands/heli-coil for examples.
"A word to the wise ain't necessary - it's the stupid ones that need the
- ... Just to note, non-straight pipe, 2 lally columns and a rope loop with a stick can apply enough force to bend the pipe straight, a hydraulic jack and a UMessage 49 of 49 , Sep 1, 2013View SourceOn 08/31/2013 11:08 PM, louis richardson wrote:
i am sure any oil field pipe that is bent wll not be sent back over seas from where it came.
Just to note, non-straight pipe, 2 lally columns and a rope loop with a stick can apply enough force to bend the pipe straight, a hydraulic jack and a "U" frame will work better.
Start with a pipe and use a surface plate (monument stones work well), to find a high spot. Apply pressure to the high spot to move it slightly beyond the final target position. This is one of those "feel" things, after a while you will know just how much beyond the target you need to go. It will vary depending on the pipe and phase of the moon, but you should be able to get below 0.001" run out pretty quickly.
If you don't believe me, try it with some scrap, it works surprisingly well.
Now, on monument stones, when granite is blanked for gravestones and government buildings, even a small flaw can make it unsaleable. The remaining options are: *Total loss, *use it as raw scrap, *find a buyer. If after significant work to the monument stone (gravestone, for example), the stone is to be discarded, someone who covers the cost of raw materials and labor may be very welcome. Sometimes, a six-pack of beer on a hot day will get you a broken headstone missing a corner.
"A word to the wise ain't necessary - it's the stupid ones that need the advice."