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Re: [multimachine] casting a faceplate ?

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  • Bruce Bellows
    We could look up tables and determine the rate of shrinkage of aluminum. The spindle nose could then be fitted with a steel shim sleeve of the appropriate
    Message 1 of 28 , Aug 19, 2013
      We could look up tables and determine the rate of shrinkage of aluminum. The spindle nose could then be fitted with a steel shim sleeve of the appropriate thickness and the molten metal poured around it. once removed the faceplate would shrink to the approximate size of the spindle nose. I say approximate because having something shrink to the exact size you need is virtually impossible. If it doesn't shrink enough it results in a sloppy fit, too much and the aluminum casting could crack. Machining the bore to fit is the way to ensure accuracy.

      If you need the actual manufacturing dimensional specs for a particular nose and faceplate combination I have many of them. Let me know the size what you have.

      Bruce

      On 8/18/2013 11:41 PM, Chris Tofu wrote:  


      aluminum melting temperatures are not a problem for cast iron stability. but spindles generally are hardened. even if that wasn't a problem aluminum is renowned for shrinkage. n even if none of that was a problem how do you intend to keep it pinned to the spindle?

    • michael martell
      sorry for the confusion but the taper is threaded and the lathe is a Putnam 1900s . the measurements are like 1 1/2 x10 threads/in. I do not have a way the
      Message 2 of 28 , Aug 19, 2013
        sorry for the confusion but the taper is threaded and the lathe is a Putnam 1900s . the measurements are like 1 1/2 x10 threads/in. I do not have a way the make threads in a faceplate or the money to have a custom faceplate made. i did think about making a custom tap out of heat treatable steel so i could make as many as i wanted from my gas furnace for casting al. but i would still need a way to do threading.

        --- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, "michael martell" <martellmichael@...> wrote:
        >
        > is it possible to cast a aluminum faceplate onto a tapered nose lathe spindle?
        >
      • David G. LeVine
        ... Yes, but, because of the thermal loads and the positions, it may be a poor idea. You are likely to destroy bearings and seals if the spindle is in the
        Message 3 of 28 , Aug 19, 2013
          On 08/18/2013 07:29 PM, michael martell wrote:
          > is it possible to cast a aluminum faceplate onto a tapered nose lathe spindle?

          Yes, but, because of the thermal loads and the positions, it may be a
          poor idea. You are likely to destroy bearings and seals if the spindle
          is in the machine, and you may warp things when you cast the faceplate.

          Better would be to make a dummy spindle nose, cast to that (with the
          spindle well sooted), press out the dummy and mount the faceplate after
          it is cooled. If the spindle copy is damaged, it is not a big deal, the
          original remains. Fitting (by scraping the casting) will allow the fit
          to be really tight.

          Dave 8{)

          --

          "A word to the wise ain't necessary - it's the stupid ones that need the
          advice."

          Bill Cosby
        • michael martell
          David, please explain how to make a dummy spindle nose that is tapered and threaded? you may me on to something!
          Message 4 of 28 , Aug 19, 2013
            David, please explain how to make a dummy spindle nose that is tapered and threaded? you may me on to something!
          • Eggleston Lance
            I could cut you a 1-1/2 x 10 thread in a piece of solid steel rod. You harden and temper it. You want a square head for a wrench on it or a S&D reduction to
            Message 5 of 28 , Aug 19, 2013
              I could cut you a 1-1/2 x 10 thread in a piece of solid steel rod.
              You harden and temper it. You want a square head for a wrench on it
              or a S&D reduction to 1/2" .

              Where do you live?
              Postage about 6$ in the lower 48.

              lance
              ++++

              On Aug 19, 2013, at 1:31 PM, michael martell wrote:

              i did think about making a custom tap out of heat treatable steel so i could make as many as i wanted from my gas furnace for casting al. but i would still need a way to do threading.

            • michael martell
              as far as I can tell its a taper like a pipe tap. I will put photos up with some measurements when I get a chance so you can see it first.
              Message 6 of 28 , Aug 19, 2013
                as far as I can tell its a taper like a pipe tap. I will put photos up with some measurements when I get a chance so you can see it first.
              • David G. LeVine
                ... No, I am not, it is an old trick. Start with a dummy for the faceplate, plaster of Paris may be good IF you can make it come off in one piece. Make a core
                Message 7 of 28 , Aug 19, 2013
                  On 08/19/2013 05:50 PM, michael martell wrote:
                  > David, please explain how to make a dummy spindle nose that is tapered and threaded? you may me on to something!

                  No, I am not, it is an old trick. Start with a dummy for the faceplate,
                  plaster of Paris may be good IF you can make it come off in one piece.
                  Make a core (sand, molasses, etc. I don't have a recipe handy), and put
                  it in the mold for the faceplate (assuming sand casting.)

                  Under no conditions make a core of plaster of Paris, it will blow up
                  unless it is specially treated!

                  Cast the faceplate. Using bluing and scrapers, make it fit properly.
                  This is a LONG process, but it will work if you are careful.

                  How much detail do you need? The real trick is make a master,
                  duplicating all the features. Use that to make a core, since aluminum
                  will shrink, it will be too tight, but only by a few thousandths. Make
                  the taper bigger to make it fit.

                  If the first pass is wrong (too tight, parts are too small, etc.) modify
                  the master and try again.

                  Dave 8{)

                  --

                  "A word to the wise ain't necessary - it's the stupid ones that need the
                  advice."

                  Bill Cosby
                • oldhermit
                  By coincidence, last night I watched a Youtube video of someone casting and fitting a Gingrey faceplate. It was a lot of work and I kept thinking how easy it
                  Message 8 of 28 , Aug 20, 2013
                    By coincidence, last night I watched a Youtube video of someone casting and fitting a Gingrey faceplate. It was a lot of work and I kept thinking how easy it was to buy my Harbor Freight face plate. Shame on me.
                    Harold

                    --- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, "David G. LeVine" <dlevine@...> wrote:
                    >
                    > On 08/19/2013 05:50 PM, michael martell wrote:
                    > > David, please explain how to make a dummy spindle nose that is tapered and threaded? you may me on to something!
                    >
                    > No, I am not, it is an old trick. Start with a dummy for the faceplate,
                    > plaster of Paris may be good IF you can make it come off in one piece.
                    > Make a core (sand, molasses, etc. I don't have a recipe handy), and put
                    > it in the mold for the faceplate (assuming sand casting.)
                    >
                    > Under no conditions make a core of plaster of Paris, it will blow up
                    > unless it is specially treated!
                    >
                    > Cast the faceplate. Using bluing and scrapers, make it fit properly.
                    > This is a LONG process, but it will work if you are careful.
                    >
                    > How much detail do you need? The real trick is make a master,
                    > duplicating all the features. Use that to make a core, since aluminum
                    > will shrink, it will be too tight, but only by a few thousandths. Make
                    > the taper bigger to make it fit.
                    >
                    > If the first pass is wrong (too tight, parts are too small, etc.) modify
                    > the master and try again.
                    >
                    > Dave 8{)
                    >
                    > --
                    >
                    > "A word to the wise ain't necessary - it's the stupid ones that need the
                    > advice."
                    >
                    > Bill Cosby
                    >
                  • Chris Tofu
                    Gingery used to use a steel core to create an accurate bore. Molaases/sand is usually used (not for accuracy though). In theory you could cast something around
                    Message 9 of 28 , Aug 20, 2013
                      Gingery used to use a steel core to create an accurate bore. Molaases/sand is usually used (not for accuracy though). In theory you could cast something around a taper and it'll fit tight. I don't know what a Putnam spiindle looks like, and don't know much of anything anyway.

                      Anyone who hasn't read at least "the Charcoal Foundry" and "the Metal Lathe" really really really ought to invest in them. But Lindsay Publications went belly up so it's either residuals from vendors or epay.


                      ------------------------------
                      On Tue, Aug 20, 2013 12:03 PM PDT oldhermit wrote:

                      >By coincidence, last night I watched a Youtube video of someone casting and fitting a Gingrey faceplate. It was a lot of work and I kept thinking how easy it was to buy my Harbor Freight face plate. Shame on me.
                      >Harold
                      >
                      >--- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, "David G. LeVine" <dlevine@...> wrote:
                      >>
                      >> On 08/19/2013 05:50 PM, michael martell wrote:
                      >> > David, please explain how to make a dummy spindle nose that is tapered and threaded? you may me on to something!
                      >>
                      >> No, I am not, it is an old trick. Start with a dummy for the faceplate,
                      >> plaster of Paris may be good IF you can make it come off in one piece.
                      >> Make a core (sand, molasses, etc. I don't have a recipe handy), and put
                      >> it in the mold for the faceplate (assuming sand casting.)
                      >>
                      >> Under no conditions make a core of plaster of Paris, it will blow up
                      >> unless it is specially treated!
                      >>
                      >> Cast the faceplate. Using bluing and scrapers, make it fit properly.
                      >> This is a LONG process, but it will work if you are careful.
                      >>
                      >> How much detail do you need? The real trick is make a master,
                      >> duplicating all the features. Use that to make a core, since aluminum
                      >> will shrink, it will be too tight, but only by a few thousandths. Make
                      >> the taper bigger to make it fit.
                      >>
                      >> If the first pass is wrong (too tight, parts are too small, etc.) modify
                      >> the master and try again.
                      >>
                      >> Dave 8{)
                      >>
                      >> --
                      >>
                      >> "A word to the wise ain't necessary - it's the stupid ones that need the
                      >> advice."
                      >>
                      >> Bill Cosby
                      >>
                      >
                      >
                    • Eggleston Lance
                      Here s a thought: Take the spindle and turn down the taper thread to 1 That count be threaded 1 x 8 or an adapter could be turned 1 x 8 tpi inside and 1-1/2
                      Message 10 of 28 , Aug 20, 2013
                        Here's a thought:

                        Take the spindle and turn down the taper thread to 1 "
                        That count be threaded 1 x 8 or an adapter could be turned
                        1 x 8 tpi inside and 1-1/2 x 8 tpi outside.

                        A 1-1/2 x 8 tpi spindle thread is quite common.
                        Does the spindle have an internal taper, MT3 or such?

                        lance
                        ++++


                        On Aug 19, 2013, at 1:31 PM, michael martell wrote:

                        sorry for the confusion but the taper is threaded and the lathe is a Putnam 1900s . the measurements are like 1 1/2 x10 threads/in. I do not have a way the make threads in a faceplate or the money to have a custom faceplate made. i did think about making a custom tap out of heat treatable steel so i could make as many as i wanted from my gas furnace for casting al. but i would still need a way to do threading.

                      • michael martell
                        i added photos under mike martell in the photo section. maybe you can tell from the measurements if you could make a threaded rod that could be used to make a
                        Message 11 of 28 , Aug 20, 2013
                          i added photos under mike martell in the photo section. maybe you can tell from the measurements if you could make a threaded rod that could be used to make a tap that i could use to thread a aluminum faceplate. i have a benchtop milling machine to make the tap.
                          I live in norfolk N.Y. thanks Lance for the offer

                          --- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, Eggleston Lance <wheezer606@...> wrote:
                          >
                          > I could cut you a 1-1/2 x 10 thread in a piece of solid steel rod.
                          > You harden and temper it. You want a square head for a wrench on it
                          > or a S&D reduction to 1/2" .
                          >
                          > Where do you live?
                          > Postage about 6$ in the lower 48.
                          >
                          > lance
                          > ++++
                          >
                          > On Aug 19, 2013, at 1:31 PM, michael martell wrote:
                          >
                          > > i did think about making a custom tap out of heat treatable steel so i could make as many as i wanted from my gas furnace for casting al. but i would still need a way to do threading.
                          >
                        • michael martell
                          it has a mt2 taper but i wouldn t want to alter the original lathe.
                          Message 12 of 28 , Aug 20, 2013
                            it has a mt2 taper but i wouldn't want to alter the original lathe.
                            --- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, Eggleston Lance <wheezer606@...> wrote:
                            >
                            > Here's a thought:
                            >
                            > Take the spindle and turn down the taper thread to 1 "
                            > That count be threaded 1 x 8 or an adapter could be turned
                            > 1 x 8 tpi inside and 1-1/2 x 8 tpi outside.
                            >
                            > A 1-1/2 x 8 tpi spindle thread is quite common.
                            > Does the spindle have an internal taper, MT3 or such?
                            >
                            > lance
                            > ++++
                            >
                            >
                            > On Aug 19, 2013, at 1:31 PM, michael martell wrote:
                            >
                            > > sorry for the confusion but the taper is threaded and the lathe is a Putnam 1900s . the measurements are like 1 1/2 x10 threads/in. I do not have a way the make threads in a faceplate or the money to have a custom faceplate made. i did think about making a custom tap out of heat treatable steel so i could make as many as i wanted from my gas furnace for casting al. but i would still need a way to do threading.
                            >
                          • michael martell
                            check out the photo mike martell the part is threaded so making a mold seems imposible. i built the gingrey lathe 13 years ago.
                            Message 13 of 28 , Aug 20, 2013
                              check out the photo mike martell the part is threaded so making a mold seems imposible. i built the gingrey lathe 13 years ago.

                              --- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, "oldhermit" <orwhut@...> wrote:
                              >
                              > By coincidence, last night I watched a Youtube video of someone casting and fitting a Gingrey faceplate. It was a lot of work and I kept thinking how easy it was to buy my Harbor Freight face plate. Shame on me.
                              > Harold
                              >
                              > --- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, "David G. LeVine" <dlevine@> wrote:
                              > >
                              > > On 08/19/2013 05:50 PM, michael martell wrote:
                              > > > David, please explain how to make a dummy spindle nose that is tapered and threaded? you may me on to something!
                              > >
                              > > No, I am not, it is an old trick. Start with a dummy for the faceplate,
                              > > plaster of Paris may be good IF you can make it come off in one piece.
                              > > Make a core (sand, molasses, etc. I don't have a recipe handy), and put
                              > > it in the mold for the faceplate (assuming sand casting.)
                              > >
                              > > Under no conditions make a core of plaster of Paris, it will blow up
                              > > unless it is specially treated!
                              > >
                              > > Cast the faceplate. Using bluing and scrapers, make it fit properly.
                              > > This is a LONG process, but it will work if you are careful.
                              > >
                              > > How much detail do you need? The real trick is make a master,
                              > > duplicating all the features. Use that to make a core, since aluminum
                              > > will shrink, it will be too tight, but only by a few thousandths. Make
                              > > the taper bigger to make it fit.
                              > >
                              > > If the first pass is wrong (too tight, parts are too small, etc.) modify
                              > > the master and try again.
                              > >
                              > > Dave 8{)
                              > >
                              > > --
                              > >
                              > > "A word to the wise ain't necessary - it's the stupid ones that need the
                              > > advice."
                              > >
                              > > Bill Cosby
                              > >
                              >
                            • Eggleston Lance
                              Mike, I have a Bausch and Lomb optical instrument makers lathe with the same spindle nose thread. I did two things to make the lathe useable: A- I made a
                              Message 14 of 28 , Aug 20, 2013
                                Mike,

                                I have a Bausch and Lomb optical instrument makers
                                lathe with the same spindle nose thread.

                                I did two things to make the lathe useable:

                                A- I made a spindle nose thread adapter, 33mm x 10 tpi inside
                                and the thread I needed for the face plate outside. 
                                I made the first adapter from aluminum, it's rough but works OK.
                                It'd use steel for the next one. The face plate is cast iron 10 inches diam.
                                What's the swing of your Putnam? 
                                My thought, I'd sell you the Al adapter and face plate. 
                                I can turn the face plate diameter down if 10" is too large.
                                I don't use them 'cause I made B.


                                B- I made a wax mold of the inside spindle taper.
                                Took the measurements and made an adapter
                                so I could fit an ER 25 straight shank chuck into the
                                spindle. Then made a closer rod and wheel to snug it
                                up thru the spindle. You lose the use of the bore,
                                but you gain accuracy.

                                I could make a spindle thread adapter 33 mm x 10tpi to 1-1/2 x 8,
                                then you could buy common spindle accessories.

                                lance
                                ++++


                                On Aug 20, 2013, at 7:24 PM, michael martell wrote:

                                i added photos under mike martell in the photo section. maybe you can tell from the measurements if you could make a threaded rod that could be used to make a tap that i could use to thread a aluminum faceplate. i have a benchtop milling machine to make the tap.
                                I live in norfolk N.Y. thanks Lance for the offer

                              • Chris Tofu
                                If I understand, he wants to cast sort of a collet-faceplate, faceplate has a cast on morse shank. What about using a lower temp alloy and living with the
                                Message 15 of 28 , Aug 20, 2013
                                  If I understand, he wants to cast sort of a collet-faceplate, faceplate has a cast on morse shank. What about using a lower temp alloy and living with the deficiencies until something else can be dreamt up. That is - take light cuts. Suitable for thin pieces, not large hunks of metal. Some alloys are made to expand. Aluminum is crap in that regard.
                                  I may not understand the problem effectively. Loads on my mind.
                                • michael martell
                                  i need a faceplate that thread onto what i have . that way i can change faceplates . I would like 3-4 faceplates for 3 jaw 4 jaw and custom ones. i think now
                                  Message 16 of 28 , Aug 20, 2013
                                    i need a faceplate that thread onto what i have . that way i can change faceplates . I would like 3-4 faceplates for 3 jaw 4 jaw and custom ones. i think now that threading my own is the way to go.

                                    --- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, Chris Tofu <rampaginggreenhulk@...> wrote:
                                    >
                                    >
                                    > If I understand, he wants to cast sort of a collet-faceplate, faceplate has a cast on morse shank. What about using a lower temp alloy and living with the deficiencies until something else can be dreamt up. That is - take light cuts. Suitable for thin pieces, not large hunks of metal. Some alloys are made to expand. Aluminum is crap in that regard.
                                    > I may not understand the problem effectively. Loads on my mind.
                                    >
                                  • michael martell
                                    Hi Lance, from my pictures and measurements ,do you think it is a common size ? i thought it was a 1 1/2 x10 but the size maybe 1 3/8 or 1 1/4 by 10tpi. does
                                    Message 17 of 28 , Aug 20, 2013
                                      Hi Lance, from my pictures and measurements ,do you think it is a common size ? i thought it was a 1 1/2 x10 but the size maybe 1 3/8 or 1 1/4 by 10tpi. does your lathe measure up to my sketch?

                                      --- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, Eggleston Lance <wheezer606@...> wrote:
                                      >
                                      > Mike,
                                      >
                                      > I have a Bausch and Lomb optical instrument makers
                                      > lathe with the same spindle nose thread.
                                      >
                                      > I did two things to make the lathe useable:
                                      >
                                      > A- I made a spindle nose thread adapter, 33mm x 10 tpi inside
                                      > and the thread I needed for the face plate outside.
                                      > I made the first adapter from aluminum, it's rough but works OK.
                                      > It'd use steel for the next one. The face plate is cast iron 10 inches diam.
                                      > What's the swing of your Putnam?
                                      > My thought, I'd sell you the Al adapter and face plate.
                                      > I can turn the face plate diameter down if 10" is too large.
                                      > I don't use them 'cause I made B.
                                      >
                                      >
                                      > B- I made a wax mold of the inside spindle taper.
                                      > Took the measurements and made an adapter
                                      > so I could fit an ER 25 straight shank chuck into the
                                      > spindle. Then made a closer rod and wheel to snug it
                                      > up thru the spindle. You lose the use of the bore,
                                      > but you gain accuracy.
                                      >
                                      > I could make a spindle thread adapter 33 mm x 10tpi to 1-1/2 x 8,
                                      > then you could buy common spindle accessories.
                                      >
                                      > lance
                                      > ++++
                                      >
                                      >
                                      > On Aug 20, 2013, at 7:24 PM, michael martell wrote:
                                      >
                                      > > i added photos under mike martell in the photo section. maybe you can tell from the measurements if you could make a threaded rod that could be used to make a tap that i could use to thread a aluminum faceplate. i have a benchtop milling machine to make the tap.
                                      > > I live in norfolk N.Y. thanks Lance for the offer
                                      >
                                    • Eggleston Lance
                                      OK You want a chuck BACK plate, not a face plate. There are different, though you can make a back plate from a face plate. ++++
                                      Message 18 of 28 , Aug 20, 2013
                                        OK

                                        You want a chuck BACK plate, not a face plate.
                                        There are different, though you can make a back plate from a face plate.

                                        ++++

                                        On Aug 20, 2013, at 9:12 PM, michael martell wrote:

                                        i need a faceplate that thread onto what i have . that way i can change faceplates . I would like 3-4 faceplates for 3 jaw 4 jaw and custom ones. i think now that threading my own is the way to go.

                                      • Eggleston Lance
                                        Common size, nope. I have one and you have one and that s all I have ever seen or heard of. I believe it is a 33 mm x 2.5 thread and there are no taps for it
                                        Message 19 of 28 , Aug 20, 2013
                                          Common size, nope. 

                                          I have one and you have one and that's 
                                          all I have ever seen or heard of.

                                          I believe it is a 33 mm x 2.5 thread and there are no taps for it either.
                                          I looked before I made the thread adapter.

                                          If you make a spindle thread adapter to 1-1/2" x 8 tpi,
                                          you only need one of those. You leave it on the lathe nose.
                                          Then you can buy common 1-1/2 x 8 back plates, chucks etc
                                          eBay and Tool4Cheap are good places to look for them.

                                          You will never-1 find a 33mm x 2.5 chuck, unless you buy mine,
                                          which isn't for sale.

                                          lance
                                          ++++
                                          On Aug 20, 2013, at 9:21 PM, michael martell wrote:

                                          Hi Lance, from my pictures and measurements ,do you think it is a common size ? i thought it was a 1 1/2 x10 but the size maybe 1 3/8 or 1 1/4 by 10tpi. does your lathe measure up to my sketch?

                                        • Chris Tofu
                                          A shop I worked at years ago used to make custom jaws out of solder. If you want something to last for centuries, pay someone to thread castings, which you may
                                          Message 20 of 28 , Aug 20, 2013
                                            A shop I worked at years ago used to make custom jaws out of solder.
                                            If you want something to last for centuries, pay someone to thread castings, which you may be able to still buy from common sources. Look in HOme shop machinist magazine. MSC used to even sell unfinished backplates unless I'm mistaken.
                                            It's great to find hacks and workarounds for problems. But if you obtained a lathe, may as well put a little more money into it.
                                          • HB
                                            Don t you already have a chuck that fits your tapered nose spindle? If you do, all you need to do is chuck to it a simple faceplate of appropriate size. It
                                            Message 21 of 28 , Aug 20, 2013
                                              Don't you already have a chuck that fits your tapered nose spindle?
                                              If you do, all you need to do is chuck to it a simple faceplate of appropriate size.
                                              It could be as simple as a circular plate with a perpendicular shaft (cylindrical, triangular, square or whatever)  attached to the.center of the plate for the chuck to hold on to.
                                              I don't see the special need to have a plate with a threaded tapered hole for a faceplate to do what it's supposed to do.


                                              From: michael martell <martellmichael@...>
                                              To: multimachine@yahoogroups.com
                                              Sent: Sunday, August 18, 2013 4:29 PM
                                              Subject: [multimachine] casting a faceplate ?

                                               
                                              is it possible to cast a aluminum faceplate onto a tapered nose lathe spindle?



                                            • David G. LeVine
                                              ... That is why 5C (and similar) collets were made the way they were (and are.) the collet closer and wheel have a hollow bore all the way through which
                                              Message 22 of 28 , Aug 21, 2013
                                                On 08/20/2013 08:44 PM, Eggleston Lance wrote:
                                                Then made a closer rod and wheel to snug it
                                                up thru the spindle. You lose the use of the bore,
                                                but you gain accuracy.

                                                That is why 5C (and similar) collets were made the way they were (and are.)  the collet closer and wheel have a hollow bore all the way through which screws around the outside of the collet.  The outside thread on a 5C collet is 1.238-20 RH, it is limited to 1.0625 stock through.  For details see http://www.loganact.com/tips/collet.htm  Closers for 5C collets are often a hollow tube with a handle, the taper is in the spindle of the lathe.

                                                Dave  8{)

                                                --

                                                "A word to the wise ain't necessary - it's the stupid ones that need the advice."

                                                Bill Cosby
                                              • michael martell
                                                I meant back plates for my 3 jaw,4 jaw and a faceplate. my original backplate is very thin and causes flexing with my 6 3jaw. I just need to find a thread
                                                Message 23 of 28 , Aug 22, 2013
                                                  I meant back plates for my 3 jaw,4 jaw and a faceplate. my original backplate is very thin and causes flexing with my 6" 3jaw. I just need to find a thread cutting lathe to make my own parts that I can fit my self. no guessing as to what size things are. thank you all for your imput.

                                                  --- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, "michael martell" <martellmichael@...> wrote:
                                                  >
                                                  > is it possible to cast a aluminum faceplate onto a tapered nose lathe spindle?
                                                  >
                                                • n9viw
                                                  Chris, For the Gingery series, go to the source: http://gingerybooks.com/ . (If you need me to say hey to Vince for you, he lives about 30 miles west of me
                                                  Message 24 of 28 , Aug 23, 2013
                                                    Chris,

                                                    For the Gingery series, go to the source: http://gingerybooks.com/ . (If you need me to say 'hey' to Vince for you, he lives about 30 miles west of me in Rogersville - lucky me!)

                                                    For everything else Lindsay-esque, I happened upon this gold mine: http://www.youroldtimebookstore.com/default.asp . Almost everything old Lindsay had, you can still have! I'm saving up for the "Absolutely Everything" package, which is going to run a couple grand for EVERY SINGLE TITLE THEY HAVE. I'm not taking the chance they'll get sick of it and pitch the works like Lindsay did!

                                                    Nick (macomb)

                                                    --- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, Chris Tofu <rampaginggreenhulk@...> wrote:
                                                    >
                                                    >
                                                    >
                                                    > Gingery used to use a steel core to create an accurate bore. Molaases/sand is usually used (not for accuracy though). In theory you could cast something around a taper and it'll fit tight. I don't know what a Putnam spiindle looks like, and don't know much of anything anyway.
                                                    >
                                                    > Anyone who hasn't read at least "the Charcoal Foundry" and "the Metal Lathe" really really really ought to invest in them. But Lindsay Publications went belly up so it's either residuals from vendors or epay.
                                                    >
                                                    >
                                                    > ------------------------------
                                                    > On Tue, Aug 20, 2013 12:03 PM PDT oldhermit wrote:
                                                    >
                                                    > >By coincidence, last night I watched a Youtube video of someone casting and fitting a Gingrey faceplate. It was a lot of work and I kept thinking how easy it was to buy my Harbor Freight face plate. Shame on me.
                                                    > >Harold
                                                    > >
                                                  • Thomas S. Knutsen
                                                    You can get the Gingery series from Gingery publishing at: http://gingerybooks.com/ 2013/8/21 Chris Tofu ... -- Please avoid
                                                    Message 25 of 28 , Aug 24, 2013
                                                      You can get the Gingery series from Gingery publishing at: http://gingerybooks.com/


                                                      2013/8/21 Chris Tofu <rampaginggreenhulk@...>
                                                       



                                                      Gingery used to use a steel core to create an accurate bore. Molaases/sand is usually used (not for accuracy though). In theory you could cast something around a taper and it'll fit tight. I don't know what a Putnam spiindle looks like, and don't know much of anything anyway.

                                                      Anyone who hasn't read at least "the Charcoal Foundry" and "the Metal Lathe" really really really ought to invest in them. But Lindsay Publications went belly up so it's either residuals from vendors or epay.

                                                      ------------------------------


                                                      On Tue, Aug 20, 2013 12:03 PM PDT oldhermit wrote:

                                                      >By coincidence, last night I watched a Youtube video of someone casting and fitting a Gingrey faceplate. It was a lot of work and I kept thinking how easy it was to buy my Harbor Freight face plate. Shame on me.
                                                      >Harold
                                                      >
                                                      >--- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, "David G. LeVine" <dlevine@...> wrote:
                                                      >>
                                                      >> On 08/19/2013 05:50 PM, michael martell wrote:
                                                      >> > David, please explain how to make a dummy spindle nose that is tapered and threaded? you may me on to something!
                                                      >>
                                                      >> No, I am not, it is an old trick. Start with a dummy for the faceplate,
                                                      >> plaster of Paris may be good IF you can make it come off in one piece.
                                                      >> Make a core (sand, molasses, etc. I don't have a recipe handy), and put
                                                      >> it in the mold for the faceplate (assuming sand casting.)
                                                      >>
                                                      >> Under no conditions make a core of plaster of Paris, it will blow up
                                                      >> unless it is specially treated!
                                                      >>
                                                      >> Cast the faceplate. Using bluing and scrapers, make it fit properly.
                                                      >> This is a LONG process, but it will work if you are careful.
                                                      >>
                                                      >> How much detail do you need? The real trick is make a master,
                                                      >> duplicating all the features. Use that to make a core, since aluminum
                                                      >> will shrink, it will be too tight, but only by a few thousandths. Make
                                                      >> the taper bigger to make it fit.
                                                      >>
                                                      >> If the first pass is wrong (too tight, parts are too small, etc.) modify
                                                      >> the master and try again.
                                                      >>
                                                      >> Dave 8{)
                                                      >>
                                                      >> --
                                                      >>
                                                      >> "A word to the wise ain't necessary - it's the stupid ones that need the
                                                      >> advice."
                                                      >>
                                                      >> Bill Cosby
                                                      >>
                                                      >
                                                      >




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