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Re: [multimachine] Re: any hobby machinist in the same area

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  • Kobus Van der Walt
    apologies Nick - my dayjob is in IT and there is constant bickering teasing etc - but in a good way. I was looking for years for a hackerspace to join- did not
    Message 1 of 22 , Aug 18, 2013
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      apologies Nick - my dayjob is in IT and there is constant bickering\teasing etc - but in a good way. I was looking for years for a hackerspace to join- did not even know what it was called. Browsed around and looking for a way to measure electrical usage of my fridge- ended up at a hackerspace. 

      In our space all the use of the tools are free.. we meetup on Tuesdays evenings and Saturdays. We get funding from local tech business(250sqm).. I think in the US hackerspace will really help your economy. 
      we have a saying down here- translated it mean a farmer will make a plan. i plan to muck about with some woodgas - for heat to soften metal so i can hit it with a hammer. Ran into the local distillers, plan to make some ethanol. Eventually all my interest should come together. i hope. 
      One of the guys i know are into aquaponics- 
      But keep in touch Nick- good luck. What i love about these groups is the supportive environment. Together we can make the world a better place and more interesting.  :)


      On Sun, Aug 18, 2013 at 5:17 AM, n9viw <n9viw@...> wrote:
       

      Kobus,

      No, I was not being sarcastic! I am yet a newbie in the machine-making and machining world, but I have a great desire to learn. There were three groups in the Springfield, MO area (about an hour west of me) but it looks like of the three, the only one still active is SquidFoo. Their rates seem reasonable, but I would not get out there often enough to take full advantage of their facilities, as impressive as they sound. Also, I have no concept of 3d modeling or digital design.

      I think, at this point, I will have to be content to doink away at my own projects until I can create a small group of my own, people who might be a bit (or a lot) less technically or technologically minded, but who still like putting pieces together to make something. For my own purposes, I'm looking forward to bringing home a Peter Wright anvil I have on layaway at a local resale shop and refinishing that, then using it to start smithing hinges and pulls for a local cabinetmaker. I also want to make shop tools (but need the shop first), and also do a little 'Depression fab' and make a doodlebug tractor and some implements I'd like on our little homestead here. Like I said, low-tech but high fun!

      Nick



      --- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, Kobus Van der Walt <kvdwalt@...> wrote:
      >
      > Nick this is for a South African hackerspace..(i did not think anybody will
      > take me up on this...)
      > i am suggesting that you join a local one..
      > http://hackerspaces.org/wiki/Missouri but if you insist.. we will be
      > starting to utilise google hangouts..
      >
      > Nick if you were sarcastic.. :)
      >
      > i am a huge fan of virtual spaces- but there is nothing like making things
      > in the real world. A while back i told the Austin hackerspace of the
      > mulitmashine\contcrete lathe via mail. but i guess they dont read all their
      > mail either. Or i hape they knew about it already-but unlikely. Since Texas
      > is so small- Pat live just around the bend etc. :) For us driving 3 hours
      > is nothing. Met a Ausie while backpacking years ago- they drive for 6 hours
      > to a party - party and then drive back, on gravel roads, at night. Dont
      > want to bring to much geography into this..
      >
      > You can build a thousand lathes in cyberspace - and none of them will be
      > able to make anything in the real world. But if you dont know about similar
      > minded people..
      >
      > I met a older guy a couple of months ago, Hans- that make chocolates
      > figurines for cakes etc. Been doing that for +20 years- with 3D printing
      > principles. That mean that he has been doing this for longer than makerbot
      > or reprap been going. Mechanical engineer, his prevision job was building
      > armaments in the cold war era. Very useful knowledge. Loads of them around
      > in this area.
      >
      >


    • David G. LeVine
      ... Unless you start with a known, pure aluminum alloy, it is difficult to say since other alloying components will come out and bite you. I would guess below
      Message 2 of 22 , Aug 18, 2013
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        On 08/18/2013 12:31 AM, Eggleston Lance wrote:
        Estimate % by weight of copper needed ?

        lance
        ++++
        On Aug 18, 2013, at 12:06 AM, David G. LeVine wrote:

        Aluminum with the right amount of copper turns pretty much like hardwood.

        Unless you start with a known, pure aluminum alloy, it is difficult to say since other alloying components will come out and bite you.

        I would guess below 5% by weight, I would start with 1% and move as it seems to need it.  But with other than pure (1000 series alloy), it is a guess, but add too little and it is easy to add more.  Some of the zinc alloys (7000 series, I believe) can get VERY hard and strong, almost like steel.

        Dave  8{)
        --

        "A word to the wise ain't necessary - it's the stupid ones that need the advice."

        Bill Cosby
      • David G. LeVine
        ... Nick, Beware! If you make a lathe/boring machine with tools coming out of both sides of the spindle, some will run backwards and you can not safely use
        Message 3 of 22 , Aug 18, 2013
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          On 08/18/2013 09:39 AM, n9viw wrote:
          > I do have the Gingery series, but as most of my work is in steel, I'm thinking the MM is a better match. Already have my mind spinning with the concept of making a mill/drill by mounting a x/y table with a long x run on a degree table, so I can turn it 90* to the headstock and use it as a short-table lathe rather than having the lathe out one side and the mill out the other. Just ideas for now, but we'll see how it goes!
          >
          > Regards,
          > Nick (Macomb)

          Nick,

          Beware! If you make a lathe/boring machine with tools coming out of
          both sides of the spindle, some will run backwards and you can not
          safely use threaded chucks under those conditions as they will spin off
          at the worst times.

          Dave 8{)

          --

          "A word to the wise ain't necessary - it's the stupid ones that need the
          advice."

          Bill Cosby
        • Eggleston Lance
          I have many extruded aluminum muffins . I believe lawn chairs and window frames are 1000 series? I have heard the pennies are good for alloying with aluminum
          Message 4 of 22 , Aug 18, 2013
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            I have many extruded aluminum "muffins".
            I believe lawn chairs and window frames are 1000 series?

            I have heard the pennies are good for alloying with aluminum
            for the copper and the zinc they contain.
            5% by weight max?

            lance
            ++++


            On Aug 18, 2013, at 6:50 PM, David G. LeVine wrote:

            Estimate % by weight of copper needed ?

            lance
            ++++
            On Aug 18, 2013, at 12:06 AM, David G. LeVine wrote:

            Aluminum with the right amount of copper turns pretty much like hardwood.

            Unless you start with a known, pure aluminum alloy, it is difficult to say since other alloying components will come out and bite you.

            I would guess below 5% by weight, I would start with 1% and move as it seems to need it.  But with other than pure (1000 series alloy), it is a guess, but add too little and it is easy to add more.  Some of the zinc alloys (7000 series, I believe) can get VERY hard and strong, almost like steel.

            Dave  8{)

          • David G. LeVine
            ... I would start lower (as in 1% by weight) and see how it machines. Remember, since it is easily remelted, it is no big loss if it needs more (or less) if
            Message 5 of 22 , Aug 18, 2013
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              On 08/18/2013 07:04 PM, Eggleston Lance wrote:

              I have many extruded aluminum "muffins".
              I believe lawn chairs and window frames are 1000 series?

              I have heard the pennies are good for alloying with aluminum
              for the copper and the zinc they contain.
              5% by weight max?

              lance
              ++++

              I would start lower (as in 1% by weight) and see how it machines.  Remember, since it is easily remelted, it is no big loss if it needs more (or less) if you use a small piece.  New pennies are biased toward zinc, nd zinc hardens aluminum alloys a whole bunch.  No, I can't tell you how much you will need.  Also beware of zinc fumes.  Look up Zinc Fume Fever,it can kill you.  Anecdotal evidence indicates that milk is antidotal, it is less damaging than  trip to the ER.  See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metal_fume_fever for one write-up.

              Dave  8{)
              --

              "A word to the wise ain't necessary - it's the stupid ones that need the advice."

              Bill Cosby
            • n9viw
              Dave, Good point, thanks for the heads-up. I think I was thinking of having an AC motor with digital drive for speed control and reversability, and never
              Message 6 of 22 , Aug 19, 2013
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                Dave,

                Good point, thanks for the heads-up. I think I was thinking of having an AC motor with digital drive for speed control and reversability, and never considered faceplate threading! D'oh.

                Another idea I have is making what is essentially a copy of this:
                http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=890-8924&PMPXNO=3527541&PARTPG=INLMK3
                by just kitbashing a homemade lathe and a drill press together. Would it work? Maybe. Badly, most like, but in the immortal words of young Froederick Frahnkenstein, "IT.... COULD... WORK!!!" And be a bloody load cheaper than two grand!

                Nick

                --- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, "David G. LeVine" <dlevine@...> wrote:
                >
                > On 08/18/2013 09:39 AM, n9viw wrote:
                > > I do have the Gingery series, but as most of my work is in steel, I'm thinking the MM is a better match. Already have my mind spinning with the concept of making a mill/drill by mounting a x/y table with a long x run on a degree table, so I can turn it 90* to the headstock and use it as a short-table lathe rather than having the lathe out one side and the mill out the other. Just ideas for now, but we'll see how it goes!
                > >
                > > Regards,
                > > Nick (Macomb)
                >
                > Nick,
                >
                > Beware! If you make a lathe/boring machine with tools coming out of
                > both sides of the spindle, some will run backwards and you can not
                > safely use threaded chucks under those conditions as they will spin off
                > at the worst times.
                >
                > Dave 8{)
                >
                > --
                >
                > "A word to the wise ain't necessary - it's the stupid ones that need the
                > advice."
                >
                > Bill Cosby
                >
              • Eggleston Lance
                Mount the drill press on a roller slide or ways behind the lathe. That way you can move and lock it in place over the lathe bed in different spots. I was going
                Message 7 of 22 , Aug 19, 2013
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                  Mount the drill press on a roller slide or ways behind the lathe.
                  That way you can move and lock it in place over the lathe bed 
                  in different spots.

                  I was going to do this with a small HF drill press
                  behind an Atlas 12" lathe, but I sold the lathe.

                  I may do it with the 11" I am building now.
                  Still have the HF DP, but modified it for light milling work.

                  lance
                  ++++
                  On Aug 19, 2013, at 10:03 PM, n9viw wrote:

                  Another idea I have is making what is essentially a copy of this: 
                  http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=890-8924&PMPXNO=3527541&PARTPG=INLMK3
                  by just kitbashing a homemade lathe and a drill press together.

                • David G. LeVine
                  ... This is only an issue if you use a threaded mount. Taper mounts (where the thread carries no torque) and cam lock mounts (where there is no thread) are
                  Message 8 of 22 , Aug 19, 2013
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                    On 08/19/2013 10:03 PM, n9viw wrote:
                    > Dave,
                    >
                    > Good point, thanks for the heads-up. I think I was thinking of having an AC motor with digital drive for speed control and reversability, and never considered faceplate threading! D'oh.
                    >
                    > Another idea I have is making what is essentially a copy of this:
                    > http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=890-8924&PMPXNO=3527541&PARTPG=INLMK3
                    > by just kitbashing a homemade lathe and a drill press together. Would it work? Maybe. Badly, most like, but in the immortal words of young Froederick Frahnkenstein, "IT.... COULD... WORK!!!" And be a bloody load cheaper than two grand!
                    >
                    > Nick

                    This is only an issue if you use a threaded mount. Taper mounts (where
                    the thread carries no torque) and cam lock mounts (where there is no
                    thread) are different, they don't loosen.

                    Dave 8{)

                    --

                    "A word to the wise ain't necessary - it's the stupid ones that need the
                    advice."

                    Bill Cosby
                  • Shannon DeWolfe
                    Nick, See this man s site: http://home.iprimus.com.au/stevor/Toolworks.htm Scroll down to the Machinery & Tooling section. The first listing links to his
                    Message 9 of 22 , Aug 20, 2013
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                      Nick,

                      See this man's site:

                      http://home.iprimus.com.au/stevor/Toolworks.htm

                      Scroll down to the "Machinery & Tooling" section. The first listing
                      links to his solution for a light milling machine made by marrying a
                      lathe and drill press.

                      I don't know Steve. But I really admire his work. Be sure to check out
                      his other pages too.

                      Regards,

                      Mr. Shannon DeWolfe
                      --I've taken to using Mr. because my name misleads folks on the WWW. I am a 57 year old fat man.

                      On 8/19/2013 9:03 PM, n9viw wrote:
                      > Another idea I have is making what is essentially a copy of this:
                      > http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=890-8924&PMPXNO=3527541&PARTPG=INLMK3
                      > by just kitbashing a homemade lathe and a drill press together. Would
                      > it work? Maybe. Badly, most like, but in the immortal words of young
                      > Froederick Frahnkenstein, "IT.... COULD... WORK!!!" And be a bloody
                      > load cheaper than two grand!
                    • David G. LeVine
                      ... Shannon, note the last thing he says, The Jacobs taper chuck keeps falling off. Jacobs tapers (and Morse tapers without a drawbar) are dangerous for
                      Message 10 of 22 , Aug 20, 2013
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                        On 08/20/2013 05:48 AM, Shannon DeWolfe wrote:
                        > See this man's site:
                        >
                        > http://home.iprimus.com.au/stevor/Toolworks.htm
                        >
                        > Scroll down to the "Machinery & Tooling" section. The first listing
                        > links to his solution for a light milling machine made by marrying a
                        > lathe and drill press.

                        Shannon, note the last thing he says, "The Jacobs taper chuck keeps
                        falling off." Jacobs tapers (and Morse tapers without a drawbar) are
                        dangerous for milling, they are not designed to take the side loads. A
                        slight hitch and the mill comes flying at your face.

                        Dave 8{)

                        --

                        "A word to the wise ain't necessary - it's the stupid ones that need the
                        advice."

                        Bill Cosby
                      • Shannon DeWolfe
                        But, that was the reason for the statement in front of it: Thread mount Jacobs drill chuck Regards, Mr. Shannon DeWolfe --I ve taken to using Mr. because my
                        Message 11 of 22 , Aug 20, 2013
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                          But, that was the reason for the statement in front of it:
                          "Thread mount Jacobs drill chuck"

                          Regards,

                          Mr. Shannon DeWolfe
                          --I've taken to using Mr. because my name misleads folks on the WWW. I am a 57 year old fat man.

                          On 8/20/2013 12:57 PM, David G. LeVine wrote:
                          >
                          >
                          > Shannon, note the last thing he says, "The Jacobs taper chuck keeps
                          > falling off." Jacobs tapers (and Morse tapers without a drawbar) are
                          > dangerous for milling, they are not designed to take the side loads. A
                          > slight hitch and the mill comes flying at your face.
                          >
                          > Dave 8{)
                          >
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