Re: [multimachine] Re: Jeremmy in Kenya has a problem
It probably got skipped over, but my first question was the purpose of this drum. I didn't want to waste everybody's time with the below if it wasn't applicable, but seems like it is.
If you're looking for compaction, a smooth drum isn't the way to go. You're better of "rolling" - the practice of using your tractor's tires to compact, no drum needed, but an extra ton or two of weight might cut down on multiple passes. Just roll back and forth over the compaction area, shifting over 1/2 a tread each pass.
Force compacts - not weight. Smooth drums are rarely used outside of asphalt, normal practice is to compact and then cut the dirt to grade. Vibrator compactors are the tools of choice - which have a hydraulic counterweight inside the drum. Imagine a 1 ton version of the vibrator in your cel phone, and you've got the idea.
- AdamOn Dec 2, 2012 10:04 AM, "Pat" <rigmatch@...> wrote:
Brilliant Idea! And a good lesson that Jeremmy's drum may not be enough weight which correlates with my plowing experience.
--- In email@example.com, Phil Bascombe <pbascombe@...> wrote:
> Â i built a roller out of a rolled sheet steelÂ , 36 inch long with 24 in diameter, (similar to 200 liter drumÂ )I used the 2 rear hubs from a front wheel drive car and two tires ,front wheel hubs ,bolt on type would work to .
> i mounted the rear hubs on the inside of theÂ frame I built to attach to the tractor Â , then mounted the tires to the hub
> with the valve stems to the out side , remove air from tires ,pushed theÂ Â tires into the tube (200 liter drum with ends removed ) , bolted frame and hub together , blew up tires and rolled away .... how ever this did very little forÂ packing Â
> or leveling , so i added a 45 gal drum and filled it with water . over 400 lbs weight still no greatÂ packing or levelingÂ
> addÂ sheet of plastic to tire before assemblyÂ push into drum, then inflate, this should reduce mud infiltration
> IÂ drew a windows paint drawing to try and put a picture to words
> just different options
> Â Phil
> From: Adam Simmons <xyrthx@...>
> To: firstname.lastname@example.org
> Sent: Saturday, December 1, 2012 8:52:58 AM
> Subject: Re: [multimachine] Jeremmy in Kenya has a problem
> Exactly what I was thinking, Shannon, you did a much better job of explaining it.
> On Dec 1, 2012 6:53 AM, "Shannon DeWolfe" <sdewolfe@...> wrote:
> >I am a bit late to the game but here is my two cents worth...
> >Rather than passing an axle through the barrel, I would make stub axles.
> >The axles and bearings could be made of wood. There were wheels long
> >before there were steel axles.
> >The ends of a barrel are thin metal. I don't think they would stand up
> >to stress concentrated in a small area. But, a plywood plate would
> >distribute the stress and that should work. Mount the axle stub to the
> >plywood plate and mount the plate to the barrel ends. How to do that? I
> >am not sure. Perhaps tack weld six or eight bolts, head against the
> >barrel end, drill the plywood to fit, nut the plywood to the barrel
> >ends. If you have adhesive, add that too.
> >Here is some good information on wood bearings. The technical data
> >should help you design a bearing that you can turn down on a temporary
> >Rather than trying to keep the bearings sealed from water and mud, I
> >would pack them full of grease before each use. Rope packing should
> >suffice to keep the grease in and the dirt out, I think.
> >Rather than making a simple yoke, make a rectangular frame. That is, a
> >barrel inside a frame. Mount the yoke to the frame rather than directly
> >to the axles. If the frame breaks free of the tractor, the frame will
> >rotate around and dig into the ground, stopping a rampaging roller! If
> >the barrel breaks free inside the frame, the frame contains it.
> >To prevent the barrel from drifting around inside the frame, make the
> >bearings and axles with thrust surfaces.
> >I would fill the roller with water. I see no need to put mud inside the
> >barrel. The weight can be adjusted by adding or removing water directly
> >through the bung hole. How would you remove mud?
> >Jeremmy, I stress that I have never done any of this!
> >Mr. Shannon DeWolfe
> >--I've taken to using Mr. because my name misleads folks on the WWW. I am a 56 year old fat man.
> >On 11/30/2012 9:31 AM, Pat wrote:
> >> can you guys help with this?
> >> Hi Gents
> >> I have to build a roller to be towed behind a tractor. The roller is
> >> based on the 200 liter drum (is that 50 gallons Stateside?) and I cant
> >> quite work out how to make it 'mud-proof'
- Had not heard from Jeremmy in a few days, turns out that his malaria kicked in again and he was back in hospital. He was able to borrow a visitor's laptop to let me know.When he gets out, I'm going to wire him $30 to buy aluminum scrap. He has been trying to collect aluminum for months but has only come up with a stack of clutch disks from a tractor. Can't imagine what kind of an alloy it would be.Pat
From: David G. LeVine <dlevine@...>
Sent: Monday, April 15, 2013 6:15 PM
Subject: Re: [multimachine] Jeremmy in Kenya has a problem
On 04/12/2013 10:17 PM, Shannon DeWolfe wrote:
His concrete is drying and he is now looking ahead for a solution tothe chuck back plate problem.
Dumb idea: How about a manhole cover for a really big faceplate? Good flat cast iron...
"Among the many misdeeds of British rule in India, history will look upon the Act of depriving a whole nation of arms as the blackest."
Mohandus Ghandi, An Autobiography, Page 446.