Re: [multimachine] New Glass Lathe
This is probably a stupid question but I'll ask it anyway; do you really need ways for your glass blowing lathe?
I searched the term "glass blowing lathe" and found a couple of companies, one in the US and one in England, that make them. I watched a few videos of the process. Pretty cool stuff -- who doesn't like playing with fire? ;-)
Even though the commercially available lathes do have traditional ways between the two head units, I could not see why they were necessary. The only video I saw where the ways and carriage were used was to mount a semi-circular manifold with several gas jets. The carriage was moved back and forth to play the flames along a 100mm section of the glass tube. The same thing could be accomplished with a rack and pinion steering section from a car. Mount the steering gear on a stand (bolted to a saw horse, for instance), mount the torch to one of the steering links, position the assembly as needed. For the back and forth motion, mount a pendulum to the input shaft of the steering assembly. Push the pendulum as needed to maintain motion.
I've included attachments of one way to accomplish what you want to do. I am not saying it is the only way. Nor do I claim it is the best way; only a way. Viewing the images, the right side engine block, the driveshaft support bushings, and the driven end of the shaft are all movable. Loosen the bolts in the T-slots, loosen the shaft coupling, move to new position, and re-tighten. Check alignment between the spindles and adjust as necessary. I will leave it to you to solve the coupling of the drive and driven shafts. But, your idea for a collet might work there.
BTW, this is not my idea. Thomas Knutsen sent me a link to a book about pattern making. On the front plate there was a beautiful pattern maker's multi-purpose lathe. It is the Model 21 made by the Oliver Machine Co. Take a look:
Regards, Mr. Shannon DeWolfe --I've taken to using Mr. because my name misleads folks on the WWW. I am a 54 year old fat man.
On 8/20/2010 11:44 PM, Gordon Haag wrote:
Shafting made from " high quality alloy steel" that is case hardened, will deflect .00012" over 36" with a 20 pound load (http://www.nookindustries.com/linear/LinearGlossary.cfm#Deflection)
I dont think the movable headstock will weigh more than 10 pounds, and the torch holder will not weigh more than 3.So I will use hardened shafting if I can find it, but I think I will be fine with 1" CRS mild steel rod.
- Hi All,
Check with a truck transmission shop or salvage. Splined PTO shafts and splined yokes are commonly available in most lengths at a reasonable price. These splined PTO shafts are very tough and wear resistant. The yokes slide easily and could have the U-Joint yoke cut off and a chain sprocket or toothed belt sprocket welded on.
--- In firstname.lastname@example.org, "bitsnpieces1" <spiveylk@...> wrote:
> How about using a gear with outside teeth and also teeth on the inside of a hole bored in the center. Motorcycles use this type of setup for the drivechain (except the outside teeth are for chain). This would slide back and forth without binding and drive another set of teeth on the center. You could machine the shaft teeth all the way to the end of the shaft to get the gear on/off and then attach something that would keep the gear from comming off when you didn't want it to come off.