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Re: [multimachine] Re: Apropriate engine block? (newbie)

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  • keith gutshall
    Hello  I used a 2in pipe with a large cast iron flange on it.  I used a file to get the outside diameter on it for the 2.375 bearing I had. A piece of 2in
    Message 1 of 10 , Jun 1, 2010
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      Hello
       I used a 2in pipe with a large cast iron flange on it.
       I used a file to get the outside diameter on it for the 2.375 bearing I had.
      A piece of 2in pipe can be made to fit a 2.375 or with some more made to
       fit a 60mm bearing. There is only 0.013-0.014 in the two diameters.
       A sch#80 pipe has a hole 1.190 ( 50mm)
       The flange is over 6in(155mm+) and a chuck could be bolted to it.
       Tighten the flange as tight as you can and put a small pin to keep
       it from moveing. or locktite it.
       
       Keith

      Deep Run Portage
      Back Shop
      " The Lizard Works"

      --- On Mon, 5/31/10, auswelder <auswelder@...> wrote:

      From: auswelder <auswelder@...>
      Subject: [multimachine] Re: Apropriate engine block? (newbie)
      To: multimachine@yahoogroups.com
      Date: Monday, May 31, 2010, 1:30 AM

       
      Will this method provide acurate results though? I assume they would have to be oiled every now and then?

      Has anyone worked out an easy way for a spindle, I have here a 160mm 3 jaw chuck that I wish to use, it has no back plate on it at the moment so need to somehow adapt the chuck to the spindle that I make.

      --- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, "Pat" <rigmatch@...> wrote:
      >
      > Hi Stuart
      >
      > Almost any block will work without re-boring. Just cast some aluminum chunks and use a wood lathe to turn (3000 rpm) the chunks into bearing housings/adapters. Make a flange on the front housing and use head bolt holes to hold it in place. Mount a similar one on a plate bolted to the oil pan surface. Different from the manual and video but is easy and will cost less.
      >
      > Pat
      >
      >
      >
      > --- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, "stuart.durkin" <stuart.durkin@> wrote:
      > >
      > > Hello,
      > >
      > > I am an unskilled newbie looking at trying to build a multimachine with the aid af some shop classes. I have access to a straght 6 engine block with 92mm cylinder bore. Is this block apropri bookate for reboring to make a similar size machine to that shown in the manual and video?
      > >
      > > Thanks!
      > >
      >


    • Pat
      I Thank all you guys for the great answers! My mind seems to be fixated on a cheap new MM . Pat
      Message 2 of 10 , Jun 1, 2010
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        I Thank all you guys for the great answers! My mind seems to be fixated on a cheap "new MM".

        Pat

        --- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, keith gutshall <drpshops@...> wrote:
        >
        > Hello
        >  I used a 2in pipe with a large cast iron flange on it.
        >  I used a file to get the outside diameter on it for the 2.375 bearing I had.
        > A piece of 2in pipe can be made to fit a 2.375 or with some more made to
        >  fit a 60mm bearing. There is only 0.013-0.014 in the two diameters.
        >  A sch#80 pipe has a hole 1.190 ( 50mm)
        >  The flange is over 6in(155mm+) and a chuck could be bolted to it.
        >  Tighten the flange as tight as you can and put a small pin to keep
        >  it from moveing. or locktite it.
        >  
        >  Keith
        >
        > Deep Run Portage
        > Back Shop
        > " The Lizard Works"
        >
        > --- On Mon, 5/31/10, auswelder <auswelder@...> wrote:
        >
        >
        > From: auswelder <auswelder@...>
        > Subject: [multimachine] Re: Apropriate engine block? (newbie)
        > To: multimachine@yahoogroups.com
        > Date: Monday, May 31, 2010, 1:30 AM
        >
        >
        >  
        >
        >
        >
        > Will this method provide acurate results though? I assume they would have to be oiled every now and then?
        >
        > Has anyone worked out an easy way for a spindle, I have here a 160mm 3 jaw chuck that I wish to use, it has no back plate on it at the moment so need to somehow adapt the chuck to the spindle that I make.
        >
        > --- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, "Pat" <rigmatch@> wrote:
        > >
        > > Hi Stuart
        > >
        > > Almost any block will work without re-boring. Just cast some aluminum chunks and use a wood lathe to turn (3000 rpm) the chunks into bearing housings/adapters. Make a flange on the front housing and use head bolt holes to hold it in place. Mount a similar one on a plate bolted to the oil pan surface. Different from the manual and video but is easy and will cost less.
        > >
        > > Pat
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > > --- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, "stuart.durkin" <stuart.durkin@> wrote:
        > > >
        > > > Hello,
        > > >
        > > > I am an unskilled newbie looking at trying to build a multimachine with the aid af some shop classes. I have access to a straght 6 engine block with 92mm cylinder bore. Is this block apropri bookate for reboring to make a similar size machine to that shown in the manual and video?
        > > >
        > > > Thanks!
        > > >
        > >
        >
      • auswelder
        Hi, Do these cast flanges have a proper name, Where may I find one, do you happen to have a website link for them? Thanks
        Message 3 of 10 , Jun 3, 2010
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          Hi,

          Do these cast flanges have a proper name, Where may I find one, do you happen to have a website link for them?

          Thanks

          --- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, keith gutshall <drpshops@...> wrote:
          >
          > Hello
          >  I used a 2in pipe with a large cast iron flange on it.
          >  I used a file to get the outside diameter on it for the 2.375 bearing I had.
          > A piece of 2in pipe can be made to fit a 2.375 or with some more made to
          >  fit a 60mm bearing. There is only 0.013-0.014 in the two diameters.
          >  A sch#80 pipe has a hole 1.190 ( 50mm)
          >  The flange is over 6in(155mm+) and a chuck could be bolted to it.
          >  Tighten the flange as tight as you can and put a small pin to keep
          >  it from moveing. or locktite it.
          >  
          >  Keith
          >
          > Deep Run Portage
          > Back Shop
          > " The Lizard Works"
          >
          > --- On Mon, 5/31/10, auswelder <auswelder@...> wrote:
          >
          >
          > From: auswelder <auswelder@...>
          > Subject: [multimachine] Re: Apropriate engine block? (newbie)
          > To: multimachine@yahoogroups.com
          > Date: Monday, May 31, 2010, 1:30 AM
          >
          >
          >  
          >
          >
          >
          > Will this method provide acurate results though? I assume they would have to be oiled every now and then?
          >
          > Has anyone worked out an easy way for a spindle, I have here a 160mm 3 jaw chuck that I wish to use, it has no back plate on it at the moment so need to somehow adapt the chuck to the spindle that I make.
          >
          > --- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, "Pat" <rigmatch@> wrote:
          > >
          > > Hi Stuart
          > >
          > > Almost any block will work without re-boring. Just cast some aluminum chunks and use a wood lathe to turn (3000 rpm) the chunks into bearing housings/adapters. Make a flange on the front housing and use head bolt holes to hold it in place. Mount a similar one on a plate bolted to the oil pan surface. Different from the manual and video but is easy and will cost less.
          > >
          > > Pat
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > > --- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, "stuart.durkin" <stuart.durkin@> wrote:
          > > >
          > > > Hello,
          > > >
          > > > I am an unskilled newbie looking at trying to build a multimachine with the aid af some shop classes. I have access to a straght 6 engine block with 92mm cylinder bore. Is this block apropri bookate for reboring to make a similar size machine to that shown in the manual and video?
          > > >
          > > > Thanks!
          > > >
          > >
          >
        • keith gutshall
          Hello  I got the flange from www.mcmaster.com  The flange is cast iron low pressure flange, part # 68185K115  Cost = $19.86 USD    The pipe is 2in sch
          Message 4 of 10 , Jun 3, 2010
          • 0 Attachment
            Hello
             I got the flange from
             The flange is cast iron low pressure flange, part # 68185K115
             Cost = $19.86 USD
             
             The pipe is 2in sch #80, and is 24 in long. this is long enought
             fot the machine.
            Part # 4500K81 and the cost is $27.16 USD.
             
             I cut the threads off of the back  of the machine,they are not needed there.
             
             Keith

            Deep Run Portage
            Back Shop
            " The Lizard Works"

            --- On Thu, 6/3/10, auswelder <auswelder@...> wrote:

            From: auswelder <auswelder@...>
            Subject: [multimachine] Re: Apropriate engine block? (newbie)
            To: multimachine@yahoogroups.com
            Date: Thursday, June 3, 2010, 2:48 AM

             
            Hi,

            Do these cast flanges have a proper name, Where may I find one, do you happen to have a website link for them?

            Thanks

            --- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, keith gutshall <drpshops@...> wrote:
            >
            > Hello
            >  I used a 2in pipe with a large cast iron flange on it.
            >  I used a file to get the outside diameter on it for the 2.375 bearing I had.
            > A piece of 2in pipe can be made to fit a 2.375 or with some more made to
            >  fit a 60mm bearing. There is only 0.013-0.014 in the two diameters.
            >  A sch#80 pipe has a hole 1.190 ( 50mm)
            >  The flange is over 6in(155mm+) and a chuck could be bolted to it.
            >  Tighten the flange as tight as you can and put a small pin to keep
            >  it from moveing. or locktite it.
            >  
            >  Keith
            >
            > Deep Run Portage
            > Back Shop
            > " The Lizard Works"
            >
            > --- On Mon, 5/31/10, auswelder <auswelder@...> wrote:
            >
            >
            > From: auswelder <auswelder@...>
            > Subject: [multimachine] Re: Apropriate engine block? (newbie)
            > To: multimachine@yahoogroups.com
            > Date: Monday, May 31, 2010, 1:30 AM
            >
            >
            >  
            >
            >
            >
            > Will this method provide acurate results though? I assume they would have to be oiled every now and then?
            >
            > Has anyone worked out an easy way for a spindle, I have here a 160mm 3 jaw chuck that I wish to use, it has no back plate on it at the moment so need to somehow adapt the chuck to the spindle that I make.
            >
            > --- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, "Pat" <rigmatch@> wrote:
            > >
            > > Hi Stuart
            > >
            > > Almost any block will work without re-boring. Just cast some aluminum chunks and use a wood lathe to turn (3000 rpm) the chunks into bearing housings/adapters. Make a flange on the front housing and use head bolt holes to hold it in place. Mount a similar one on a plate bolted to the oil pan surface. Different from the manual and video but is easy and will cost less.
            > >
            > > Pat
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > > --- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, "stuart.durkin" <stuart.durkin@> wrote:
            > > >
            > > > Hello,
            > > >
            > > > I am an unskilled newbie looking at trying to build a multimachine with the aid af some shop classes. I have access to a straght 6 engine block with 92mm cylinder bore. Is this block apropri bookate for reboring to make a similar size machine to that shown in the manual and video?
            > > >
            > > > Thanks!
            > > >
            > >
            >


          • sdewolfe@cricketlady.com
            I was checking my email during my lunch break and read what I posted this morning. Using either intake or exhaust valves would reduce the assembly work. If
            Message 5 of 10 , Jun 3, 2010
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              I was checking my email during my lunch break and read what I posted this
              morning.

              "Using either intake or exhaust valves would reduce the assembly work. If
              more clamping power is required, use all the valves. Intake valves are
              smaller than exhaust valves so two really big drill bits would be
              required to form the valve seats."

              Exhaust valves are smaller than intake valves but other than that... ;-)

              Regards,

              Shannon DeWolfe
            • Pat
              Thanks for adding the parts numbers Keith. Pat
              Message 6 of 10 , Jun 3, 2010
              • 0 Attachment
                Thanks for adding the parts numbers Keith.

                Pat

                --- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, keith gutshall <drpshops@...> wrote:
                >
                > Hello
                >  I got the flange from
                > www.mcmaster.com
                >  The flange is cast iron low pressure flange, part # 68185K115
                >  Cost = $19.86 USD
                >  
                >  The pipe is 2in sch #80, and is 24 in long. this is long enought
                >  fot the machine.
                > Part # 4500K81 and the cost is $27.16 USD.
                >  
                >  I cut the threads off of the back  of the machine,they are not needed there.
                >  
                >  Keith
                >
                > Deep Run Portage
                > Back Shop
                > " The Lizard Works"
                >
                > --- On Thu, 6/3/10, auswelder <auswelder@...> wrote:
                >
                >
                > From: auswelder <auswelder@...>
                > Subject: [multimachine] Re: Apropriate engine block? (newbie)
                > To: multimachine@yahoogroups.com
                > Date: Thursday, June 3, 2010, 2:48 AM
                >
                >
                >  
                >
                >
                >
                > Hi,
                >
                > Do these cast flanges have a proper name, Where may I find one, do you happen to have a website link for them?
                >
                > Thanks
                >
                > --- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, keith gutshall <drpshops@> wrote:
                > >
                > > Hello
                > >  I used a 2in pipe with a large cast iron flange on it.
                > >  I used a file to get the outside diameter on it for the 2.375 bearing I had.
                > > A piece of 2in pipe can be made to fit a 2.375 or with some more made to
                > >  fit a 60mm bearing. There is only 0.013-0.014 in the two diameters.
                > >  A sch#80 pipe has a hole 1.190 ( 50mm)
                > >  The flange is over 6in(155mm+) and a chuck could be bolted to it.
                > >  Tighten the flange as tight as you can and put a small pin to keep
                > >  it from moveing. or locktite it.
                > >  
                > >  Keith
                > >
                > > Deep Run Portage
                > > Back Shop
                > > " The Lizard Works"
                > >
                > > --- On Mon, 5/31/10, auswelder <auswelder@> wrote:
                > >
                > >
                > > From: auswelder <auswelder@>
                > > Subject: [multimachine] Re: Apropriate engine block? (newbie)
                > > To: multimachine@yahoogroups.com
                > > Date: Monday, May 31, 2010, 1:30 AM
                > >
                > >
                > >  
                > >
                > >
                > >
                > > Will this method provide acurate results though? I assume they would have to be oiled every now and then?
                > >
                > > Has anyone worked out an easy way for a spindle, I have here a 160mm 3 jaw chuck that I wish to use, it has no back plate on it at the moment so need to somehow adapt the chuck to the spindle that I make.
                > >
                > > --- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, "Pat" <rigmatch@> wrote:
                > > >
                > > > Hi Stuart
                > > >
                > > > Almost any block will work without re-boring. Just cast some aluminum chunks and use a wood lathe to turn (3000 rpm) the chunks into bearing housings/adapters. Make a flange on the front housing and use head bolt holes to hold it in place. Mount a similar one on a plate bolted to the oil pan surface. Different from the manual and video but is easy and will cost less.
                > > >
                > > > Pat
                > > >
                > > >
                > > >
                > > > --- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, "stuart.durkin" <stuart.durkin@> wrote:
                > > > >
                > > > > Hello,
                > > > >
                > > > > I am an unskilled newbie looking at trying to build a multimachine with the aid af some shop classes. I have access to a straght 6 engine block with 92mm cylinder bore. Is this block apropri bookate for reboring to make a similar size machine to that shown in the manual and video?
                > > > >
                > > > > Thanks!
                > > > >
                > > >
                > >
                >
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