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FIBERGLASS, HERE I GO AGAIN

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  • museenigma
    Okay the engine is out and I have access to the engine compartment, First thing was to install some 110v florescent lights, Bright and nice. kitty litter
    Message 1 of 17 , Jun 6, 2011
      Okay the engine is out and I have access to the engine compartment, First thing was to install some 110v florescent lights, Bright and nice. kitty litter soaking up the oil and oil stains. Using orange degreaser to clean the grease and oil that the kitty litter left behind. Now for the expertise that is out there. First I noticed some vertical and horizontal lines on the forward and aft engine bulkheads. Could they be reference lines put there by the manufacturer? Has anyone else noticed these lines? I have built a work platform that fits over the pit and intend to replace some damaged areas under where the engine mounts are attached. Any advise or suggestions from anyone who has expertise or who may have been there before me. I have exposed a prism shaped block of some kind of wood and what looks like an attempt at a previous repair using some retangular blocks of wood that have deteriorated. Does anyone know what kind of wood was used to create the sub-structure for the engine mounts. I am guessing it is something like "oak". I plan on using layers of freezer paper to protect the work surface from any spills I know are in my future. It just happens. Fiberglass is not something I look forward to and my only exposure to handling the gooey mess was repairing one of my favorite flyrods I slammed the car trunk lid on. It still pulls in trout. So any input would by greatly appreciated. The does and the don't, I have a copy of "The Old Boat by Don Casey", a good guide book. As far as I can tell Mr Casey does not address this kind of problem, an oversite on an old boat I think.
    • jregar@aol.com
      What are you fiberglassing? ... From: museenigma To: morganowners Sent: Mon, Jun 6, 2011 10:22 am Subject:
      Message 2 of 17 , Jun 6, 2011
        What are you fiberglassing?



        -----Original Message-----
        From: museenigma <skipfoto@...>
        To: morganowners <morganowners@yahoogroups.com>
        Sent: Mon, Jun 6, 2011 10:22 am
        Subject: [morganowners] FIBERGLASS, HERE I GO AGAIN

         
        Okay the engine is out and I have access to the engine compartment, First thing was to install some 110v florescent lights, Bright and nice. kitty litter soaking up the oil and oil stains. Using orange degreaser to clean the grease and oil that the kitty litter left behind. Now for the expertise that is out there. First I noticed some vertical and horizontal lines on the forward and aft engine bulkheads. Could they be reference lines put there by the manufacturer? Has anyone else noticed these lines? I have built a work platform that fits over the pit and intend to replace some damaged areas under where the engine mounts are attached. Any advise or suggestions from anyone who has expertise or who may have been there before me. I have exposed a prism shaped block of some kind of wood and what looks like an attempt at a previous repair using some retangular blocks of wood that have deteriorated. Does anyone know what kind of wood was used to create the sub-st ructure for the engine mounts. I am guessing it is something like "oak". I plan on using layers of freezer paper to protect the work surface from any spills I know are in my future. It just happens. Fiberglass is not something I look forward to and my only exposure to handling the gooey mess was repairing one of my favorite flyrods I slammed the car trunk lid on. It still pulls in trout. So any input would by greatly appreciated. The does and the don't, I have a copy of "The Old Boat by Don Casey", a good guide book. As far as I can tell Mr Casey does not address this kind of problem, an oversite on an old boat I think.

      • Zuzack, Tom
        Gougeon Brothers offers a wealth of documentation on how to do just about anything using their West System epoxy. Here s a good place for guidance
        Message 3 of 17 , Jun 6, 2011
          Gougeon Brothers offers a wealth of documentation on how to do just about anything using their West System epoxy.  Here's a good place for guidance http://www.westsystem.com/ss/fiberglass-boat-repair-and-restoration/
           
          Tom
          Mia's Competition
          1977 Morgan Out Island 415 Ketch
          Apollo Beach, Florida


          Jun 6, 2011 10:22:11 AM, morganowners@yahoogroups.com wrote:
           

          Okay the engine is out and I have access to the engine compartment, First thing was to install some 110v florescent lights, Bright and nice. kitty litter soaking up the oil and oil stains. Using orange degreaser to clean the grease and oil that the kitty litter left behind. Now for the expertise that is out there. First I noticed some vertical and horizontal lines on the forward and aft engine bulkheads. Could they be reference lines put there by the manufacturer? Has anyone else noticed these lines? I have built a work platform that fits over the pit and intend to replace some damaged areas under where the engine mounts are attached. Any advise or suggestions from anyone who has expertise or who may have been there before me. I have exposed a prism shaped block of some kind of wood and what looks like an attempt at a previous repair using some retangular blocks of wood that have deteriorated. Does anyone know what kind of wood was used to create the sub-structure for the engine mounts. I am guessing it is something like "oak". I plan on using layers of freezer paper to protect the work surface from any spills I know are in my future. It just happens. Fiberglass is not something I look forward to and my only exposure to handling the gooey mess was repairing one of my favorite flyrods I slammed the car trunk lid on. It still pulls in trout. So any input would by greatly appreciated. The does and the don't, I have a copy of "The Old Boat by Don Casey", a good guide book. As far as I can tell Mr Casey does not address this kind of problem, an oversite on an old boat I think.

        • museenigma
          Well I tried to make it clear that on the canted hull in the engine room where the engine is mounted there are some ship side mounting areas and they have had
          Message 4 of 17 , Jun 6, 2011
            Well I tried to make it clear that on the canted hull in the engine room where the engine is mounted there are some ship side mounting areas and they have had previous damage and attempts at repairs. Beneath the orginal installation are rectangular prism shaped wooden block that were part of the engine supports. So that is my current project, restoring those engine support blocks to a close to orginal as possible. I am sure that some kind of very hard wood was used in the manufacturing process for strenght and stability, but they have been abused and misused.
            --- In morganowners@yahoogroups.com, jregar@... wrote:
            >
            > What are you fiberglassing?
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            > -----Original Message-----
            > From: museenigma <skipfoto@...>
            > To: morganowners <morganowners@yahoogroups.com>
            > Sent: Mon, Jun 6, 2011 10:22 am
            > Subject: [morganowners] FIBERGLASS, HERE I GO AGAIN
            >
            >
            >
            >
            >
            > Okay the engine is out and I have access to the engine compartment, First thing was to install some 110v florescent lights, Bright and nice. kitty litter soaking up the oil and oil stains. Using orange degreaser to clean the grease and oil that the kitty litter left behind. Now for the expertise that is out there. First I noticed some vertical and horizontal lines on the forward and aft engine bulkheads. Could they be reference lines put there by the manufacturer? Has anyone else noticed these lines? I have built a work platform that fits over the pit and intend to replace some damaged areas under where the engine mounts are attached. Any advise or suggestions from anyone who has expertise or who may have been there before me. I have exposed a prism shaped block of some kind of wood and what looks like an attempt at a previous repair using some retangular blocks of wood that have deteriorated. Does anyone know what kind of wood was used to create the sub-st ructure for the engine mounts. I am guessing it is something like "oak". I plan on using layers of freezer paper to protect the work surface from any spills I know are in my future. It just happens. Fiberglass is not something I look forward to and my only exposure to handling the gooey mess was repairing one of my favorite flyrods I slammed the car trunk lid on. It still pulls in trout. So any input would by greatly appreciated. The does and the don't, I have a copy of "The Old Boat by Don Casey", a good guide book. As far as I can tell Mr Casey does not address this kind of problem, an oversite on an old boat I think.
            >
          • USNCas@aol.com
            Ditto Tom s recommendation on West System info. There are others but I like West System. You ll need: Epoxy Resin 105 Hardener fast or slow 205 or 206
            Message 5 of 17 , Jun 6, 2011
              Ditto Tom's recommendation on West System info.  There are others but I like West System.
               
              You'll need:
              Epoxy Resin 105
              Hardener fast or slow 205 or 206
              fillers, there are too many to list
              The pumps
              mixing containers (you can throw them away by lots or you can clean them and use them again)
              gloves, I like the Nitrile
              Acetone
               
              Than off the boat... in the garage or back yard experiment.  Get some scraps of wood, mix an experimental 1 pump of each (resin and hardener)
              Play around with the straight epoxy/hardener mix, it has the consistency of maple syrup.  Put a bit of that on some scrap of wood and let it cure.  Than take a bit more, add some hardener, you are going to want it to be a bit on the thick side to bond your motor stringers to the hull...play around with it, it's not as hard as it sounds.
               
              On the wood I used oak.  I experimented with pine, made blocks, that I glued together (that is I epoxied them together...I didn't use wood glue)  Shaping was tricky.  I made lots of cardboard cut outs to try to get the angles/slopes right.  Don't worry about it too much when you get it the way you want it you are going to make a thickened batch of epoxy and kind of put it on like you were laying a brick.  I had to build some bracing to keep it all in place while it cured.
               
              Once I had the stringers the way I wanted them...shaped a bit with my trusty angle grinder, I glassed over all of it with straight epoxy and hardener...no thickener and applied a layer or two of fiber class to strengthen it all.
               
              You are going to make a mess...forget about the paper protection.  Maybe a piece of canvas drop cloth....anyway when you are done clean up sand off some of your mess...and paint it all with interlux builgecote White....you usually have to special order it...for some reason most places stock gray.
               
              Dave
               
               
               
               
               


               


              -----Original Message-----
              From: Zuzack, Tom <zuzack.tom@...>
              To: morganowners <morganowners@yahoogroups.com>
              Sent: Mon, Jun 6, 2011 12:08 pm
              Subject: Re: [morganowners] FIBERGLASS, HERE I GO AGAIN

               
              Gougeon Brothers offers a wealth of documentation on how to do just about anything using their West System epoxy.  Here's a good place for guidance http://www.westsystem.com/ss/fiberglass-boat-repair-and-restoration/
               
              Tom
              Mia's Competition
              1977 Morgan Out Island 415 Ketch
              Apollo Beach, Florida


              Jun 6, 2011 10:22:11 AM, morganowners@yahoogroups.com wrote:
               
              Okay the engine is out and I have access to the engine compartment, First thing was to install some 110v florescent lights, Bright and nice. kitty litter soaking up the oil and oil stains. Using orange degreaser to clean the grease and oil that the kitty litter left behind. Now for the expertise that is out there. First I noticed some vertical and horizontal lines on the forward and aft engine bulkheads. Could they be reference lines put there by the manufacturer? Has anyone else noticed these lines? I have built a work platform that fits over the pit and intend to replace some damaged areas under where the engine mounts are attached. Any advise or suggestions from anyone who has expertise or who may have been there before me. I have exposed a prism shaped block of some kind of wood and what looks like an attempt at a previous repair using some retangular blocks of wood that have deteriorated. Does anyone know what kind of wood was used to create the sub-structure for the engine mounts. I am guessing it is something like "oak". I plan on using layers of freezer paper to protect the work surface from any spills I know are in my future. It just happens. Fiberglass is not something I look forward to and my only exposure to handling the gooey mess was repairing one of my favorite flyrods I slammed the car trunk lid on. It still pulls in trout. So any input would by greatly appreciated. The does and the don't, I have a copy of "The Old Boat by Don Casey", a good guide book. As far as I can tell Mr Casey does not address this kind of problem, an oversite on an old boat I think.

            • jregar@aol.com
              Fitting a new engine bed in a GRP hull will be straight forward if you have a base to attach. The whole key is make sure the GRP surface your glassing to is
              Message 6 of 17 , Jun 6, 2011
                Fitting a new engine bed in a GRP hull will be straight forward if you have a base to attach.  The whole key is make sure the GRP surface your glassing to is ABSOLUTELY cleaned and prepared, so that the new layers of glass and resin stand a good chance of bounding. (extract from "HOW TO INSTALL A NEW DIESEL" by Peter Cummings, p23-24).
                 
                How would you like to have this reference?  I'll mail it to you and three other books(Don Casey's Sailboat Hull & Deck Repair, Sailboat Refinishing, Sailboat Electrics Simplifiede) you will need in your reto-fit.  You pay for shipping?
                 
                What type of engine do you have? Maybe I'll dig up a good reference book there too.
                 
                Capt. Jack



                -----Original Message-----
                From: museenigma <skipfoto@...>
                To: morganowners <morganowners@yahoogroups.com>
                Sent: Mon, Jun 6, 2011 7:06 pm
                Subject: [morganowners] Re: FIBERGLASS, HERE I GO AGAIN

                 

                Well I tried to make it clear that on the canted hull in the engine room where the engine is mounted there are some ship side mounting areas and they have had previous damage and attempts at repairs. Beneath the orginal installation are rectangular prism shaped wooden block that were part of the engine supports. So that is my current project, restoring those engine support blocks to a close to orginal as possible. I am sure that some kind of very hard wood was used in the manufacturing process for strenght and stability, but they have been abused and misused.
                --- In morganowners@yahoogroups.com, jregar@... wrote:
                >
                > What are you fiberglassing?
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                > -----Original Message-----
                > From: museenigma <skipfoto@...>
                > To: morganowners <morganowners@yahoogroups.com>
                > Sent: Mon, Jun 6, 2011 10:22 am
                > Subject: [morganowners] FIBERGLASS, HERE I GO AGAIN
                >
                >
                >
                >
                >
                > Okay the engine is out and I have access to the engine compartment, First thing was to install some 110v florescent lights, Bright and nice. kitty litter soaking up the oil and oil stains. Using orange degreaser to clean the grease and oil that the kitty litter left behind. Now for the expertise that is out there. First I noticed some vertical and horizontal lines on the forward and aft engine bulkheads. Could they be reference lines put there by the manufacturer? Has anyone else noticed these lines? I have built a work platform that fits over the pit and intend to replace some damaged areas under where the engine mounts are attached. Any advise or suggestions from anyone who has expertise or who may have been there before me. I have exposed a prism shaped block of some kind of wood and what looks like an attempt at a previous repair using some retangular blocks of wood that have deteriorated. Does anyone know what kind of wood was used to create the sub-st ruc ture for the engine mounts. I am guessing it is something like "oak". I plan on using layers of freezer paper to protect the work surface from any spills I know are in my future. It just happens. Fiberglass is not something I look forward to and my only exposure to handling the gooey mess was repairing one of my favorite flyrods I slammed the car trunk lid on. It still pulls in trout. So any input would by greatly appreciated. The does and the don't, I have a copy of "The Old Boat by Don Casey", a good guide book. As far as I can tell Mr Casey does not address this kind of problem, an oversite on an old boat I think.
                >

              • horizon421@gmail.com
                Hey Jack,while you are being so generous, mind if I stand in line ? Engine on my OI28 is a 12 HP Volvo Md 6B Thanks agAin, BoB, Sea Mist Sent via BlackBerry by
                Message 7 of 17 , Jun 6, 2011
                  Hey Jack,while you are being so generous, mind if I stand in line
                  ? Engine on my OI28 is a 12 HP Volvo Md 6B

                  Thanks agAin,

                  BoB,
                  Sea Mist

                  Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T


                  From: jregar@...
                  Sender: morganowners@yahoogroups.com
                  Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2011 20:34:02 -0400 (EDT)
                  To: <morganowners@yahoogroups.com>
                  ReplyTo: morganowners@yahoogroups.com
                  Subject: Re: [morganowners] Re: FIBERGLASS, HERE I GO AGAIN

                   

                  Fitting a new engine bed in a GRP hull will be straight forward if you have a base to attach.  The whole key is make sure the GRP surface your glassing to is ABSOLUTELY cleaned and prepared, so that the new layers of glass and resin stand a good chance of bounding. (extract from "HOW TO INSTALL A NEW DIESEL" by Peter Cummings, p23-24).
                   
                  How would you like to have this reference?  I'll mail it to you and three other books(Don Casey's Sailboat Hull & Deck Repair, Sailboat Refinishing, Sailboat Electrics Simplifiede) you will need in your reto-fit.  You pay for shipping?
                   
                  What type of engine do you have? Maybe I'll dig up a good reference book there too.
                   
                  Capt. Jack



                  -----Original Message-----
                  From: museenigma <skipfoto@...>
                  To: morganowners <morganowners@yahoogroups.com>
                  Sent: Mon, Jun 6, 2011 7:06 pm
                  Subject: [morganowners] Re: FIBERGLASS, HERE I GO AGAIN

                   

                  Well I tried to make it clear that on the canted hull in the engine room where the engine is mounted there are some ship side mounting areas and they have had previous damage and attempts at repairs. Beneath the orginal installation are rectangular prism shaped wooden block that were part of the engine supports. So that is my current project, restoring those engine support blocks to a close to orginal as possible. I am sure that some kind of very hard wood was used in the manufacturing process for strenght and stability, but they have been abused and misused.
                  --- In morganowners@yahoogroups.com, jregar@... wrote:
                  >
                  > What are you fiberglassing?
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  > -----Original Message-----
                  > From: museenigma <skipfoto@...>
                  > To: morganowners <morganowners@yahoogroups.com>
                  > Sent: Mon, Jun 6, 2011 10:22 am
                  > Subject: [morganowners] FIBERGLASS, HERE I GO AGAIN
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  > Okay the engine is out and I have access to the engine compartment, First thing was to install some 110v florescent lights, Bright and nice. kitty litter soaking up the oil and oil stains. Using orange degreaser to clean the grease and oil that the kitty litter left behind. Now for the expertise that is out there. First I noticed some vertical and horizontal lines on the forward and aft engine bulkheads. Could they be reference lines put there by the manufacturer? Has anyone else noticed these lines? I have built a work platform that fits over the pit and intend to replace some damaged areas under where the engine mounts are attached. Any advise or suggestions from anyone who has expertise or who may have been there before me. I have exposed a prism shaped block of some kind of wood and what looks like an attempt at a previous repair using some retangular blocks of wood that have deteriorated. Does anyone know what kind of wood was used to create the sub-st ruc ture for the engine mounts. I am guessing it is something like "oak". I plan on using layers of freezer paper to protect the work surface from any spills I know are in my future. It just happens. Fiberglass is not something I look forward to and my only exposure to handling the gooey mess was repairing one of my favorite flyrods I slammed the car trunk lid on. It still pulls in trout. So any input would by greatly appreciated. The does and the don't, I have a copy of "The Old Boat by Don Casey", a good guide book. As far as I can tell Mr Casey does not address this kind of problem, an oversite on an old boat I think.
                  >

                • jregar@aol.com
                  Here is all I got!! Capt. Jack ... From: horizon421 To: morganowners Sent: Mon, Jun 6, 2011 9:18 pm
                  Message 8 of 17 , Jun 6, 2011
                  Here is all I got!!
                   
                  Capt. Jack




                  -----Original Message-----
                  From: horizon421 <horizon421@...>
                  To: morganowners <morganowners@yahoogroups.com>
                  Sent: Mon, Jun 6, 2011 9:18 pm
                  Subject: Re: [morganowners] Re: FIBERGLASS, HERE I GO AGAIN

                   
                  Hey Jack,while you are being so generous, mind if I stand in line
                  ? Engine on my OI28 is a 12 HP Volvo Md 6B

                  Thanks agAin,

                  BoB,
                  Sea Mist
                  Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

                  Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2011 20:34:02 -0400 (EDT)
                  Subject: Re: [morganowners] Re: FIBERGLASS, HERE I GO AGAIN

                   
                  Fitting a new engine bed in a GRP hull will be straight forward if you have a base to attach.  The whole key is make sure the GRP surface your glassing to is ABSOLUTELY cleaned and prepared, so that the new layers of glass and resin stand a good chance of bounding. (extract from "HOW TO INSTALL A NEW DIESEL" by Peter Cummings, p23-24).
                   
                  How would you like to have this reference?  I'll mail it to you and three other books(Don Casey's Sailboat Hull & Deck Repair, Sailboat Refinishing, Sailboat Electrics Simplifiede) you will need in your reto-fit.  You pay for shipping?
                   
                  What type of engine do you have? Maybe I'll dig up a good reference book there too.
                   
                  Capt. Jack



                  -----Original Message-----
                  From: museenigma <skipfoto@...>
                  To: morganowners <morganowners@yahoogroups.com>
                  Sent: Mon, Jun 6, 2011 7:06 pm
                  Subject: [morganowners] Re: FIBERGLASS, HERE I GO AGAIN

                   

                  Well I tried to make it clear that on the canted hull in the engine room where the engine is mounted there are some ship side mounting areas and they have had previous damage and attempts at repairs. Beneath the orginal installation are rectangular prism shaped wooden block that were part of the engine supports. So that is my current project, restoring those engine support blocks to a close to orginal as possible. I am sure that some kind of very hard wood was used in the manufacturing process for strenght and stability, but they have been abused and misused.
                  --- In morganowners@yahoogroups.com, jregar@... wrote:
                  >
                  > What are you fiberglassing?
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  > -----Original Message-----
                  > From: museenigma <skipfoto@...>
                  > To: morganowners <morganowners@yahoogroups.com>
                  > Sent: Mon, Jun 6, 2011 10:22 am
                  > Subject: [morganowners] FIBERGLASS, HERE I GO AGAIN
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  > Okay the engine is out and I have access to the engine compartment, First thing was to install some 110v florescent lights, Bright and nice. kitty litter soaking up the oil and oil stains. Using orange degreaser to clean the grease and oil that the kitty litter left behind. Now for the expertise that is out there. First I noticed some vertical and horizontal lines on the forward and aft engine bulkheads. Could they be reference lines put there by the manufacturer? Has anyone else noticed these lines? I have built a work platform that fits over the pit and intend to replace some damaged areas under where the engine mounts are attached. Any advise or suggestions from anyone who has expertise or who may have been there before me. I have exposed a prism shaped block of some kind of wood and what looks like an attempt at a previous repair using some retangular blocks of wood that have deteriorated. Does anyone know what kind of wood was used to create the sub-st ruc ture for the engine mounts. I am guessing it is something like "oak". I plan on using layers of freezer paper to protect the work surface from any spills I know are in my future. It just happens. Fiberglass is not something I look forward to and my only exposure to handling the gooey mess was repairing one of my favorite flyrods I slammed the car trunk lid on. It still pulls in trout. So any input would by greatly appreciated. The does and the don't, I have a copy of "The Old Boat by Don Casey", a good guide book. As far as I can tell Mr Casey does not address this kind of problem, an oversite on an old boat I think.
                  >

                • horizon421@gmail.com
                  All I sent mon Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T ... From: jregar@aol.com Sender: morganowners@yahoogroups.com Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2011 22:45:35 To:
                  Message 9 of 17 , Jun 6, 2011
                    All I sent mon

                    Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T


                    From: jregar@...
                    Sender: morganowners@yahoogroups.com
                    Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2011 22:45:35 -0400 (EDT)
                    To: <morganowners@yahoogroups.com>
                    ReplyTo: morganowners@yahoogroups.com
                    Subject: Re: [morganowners] Re: FIBERGLASS, HERE I GO AGAIN [2 Attachments]

                     

                    Here is all I got!!
                     
                    Capt. Jack




                    -----Original Message-----
                    From: horizon421 <horizon421@...>
                    To: morganowners <morganowners@yahoogroups.com>
                    Sent: Mon, Jun 6, 2011 9:18 pm
                    Subject: Re: [morganowners] Re: FIBERGLASS, HERE I GO AGAIN

                     
                    Hey Jack,while you are being so generous, mind if I stand in line
                    ? Engine on my OI28 is a 12 HP Volvo Md 6B

                    Thanks agAin,

                    BoB,
                    Sea Mist
                    Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

                    Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2011 20:34:02 -0400 (EDT)
                    Subject: Re: [morganowners] Re: FIBERGLASS, HERE I GO AGAIN

                     
                    Fitting a new engine bed in a GRP hull will be straight forward if you have a base to attach.  The whole key is make sure the GRP surface your glassing to is ABSOLUTELY cleaned and prepared, so that the new layers of glass and resin stand a good chance of bounding. (extract from "HOW TO INSTALL A NEW DIESEL" by Peter Cummings, p23-24).
                     
                    How would you like to have this reference?  I'll mail it to you and three other books(Don Casey's Sailboat Hull & Deck Repair, Sailboat Refinishing, Sailboat Electrics Simplifiede) you will need in your reto-fit.  You pay for shipping?
                     
                    What type of engine do you have? Maybe I'll dig up a good reference book there too.
                     
                    Capt. Jack



                    -----Original Message-----
                    From: museenigma <skipfoto@...>
                    To: morganowners <morganowners@yahoogroups.com>
                    Sent: Mon, Jun 6, 2011 7:06 pm
                    Subject: [morganowners] Re: FIBERGLASS, HERE I GO AGAIN

                     

                    Well I tried to make it clear that on the canted hull in the engine room where the engine is mounted there are some ship side mounting areas and they have had previous damage and attempts at repairs. Beneath the orginal installation are rectangular prism shaped wooden block that were part of the engine supports. So that is my current project, restoring those engine support blocks to a close to orginal as possible. I am sure that some kind of very hard wood was used in the manufacturing process for strenght and stability, but they have been abused and misused.
                    --- In morganowners@yahoogroups.com, jregar@... wrote:
                    >
                    > What are you fiberglassing?
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    > -----Original Message-----
                    > From: museenigma <skipfoto@...>
                    > To: morganowners <morganowners@yahoogroups.com>
                    > Sent: Mon, Jun 6, 2011 10:22 am
                    > Subject: [morganowners] FIBERGLASS, HERE I GO AGAIN
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    > Okay the engine is out and I have access to the engine compartment, First thing was to install some 110v florescent lights, Bright and nice. kitty litter soaking up the oil and oil stains. Using orange degreaser to clean the grease and oil that the kitty litter left behind. Now for the expertise that is out there. First I noticed some vertical and horizontal lines on the forward and aft engine bulkheads. Could they be reference lines put there by the manufacturer? Has anyone else noticed these lines? I have built a work platform that fits over the pit and intend to replace some damaged areas under where the engine mounts are attached. Any advise or suggestions from anyone who has expertise or who may have been there before me. I have exposed a prism shaped block of some kind of wood and what looks like an attempt at a previous repair using some retangular blocks of wood that have deteriorated. Does anyone know what kind of wood was used to create the sub-st ruc ture for the engine mounts. I am guessing it is something like "oak". I plan on using layers of freezer paper to protect the work surface from any spills I know are in my future. It just happens. Fiberglass is not something I look forward to and my only exposure to handling the gooey mess was repairing one of my favorite flyrods I slammed the car trunk lid on. It still pulls in trout. So any input would by greatly appreciated. The does and the don't, I have a copy of "The Old Boat by Don Casey", a good guide book. As far as I can tell Mr Casey does not address this kind of problem, an oversite on an old boat I think.
                    >

                  • Steve D
                    When I replaced the engine beds on my 28, I epoxied 3 layers of 1  plywood (not marine, it doesn t bond together as well) together and clamped them tightly.
                    Message 10 of 17 , Jun 6, 2011
                      When I replaced the engine beds on my 28, I epoxied 3 layers of 1" plywood (not marine, it doesn't bond together as well) together and clamped them tightly. After they cured I shaped them to match the slant of the hull using my electric chain saw to remove the large quantity of material necesary. To do this I clamped the lamination in a vise and went back and forth along the bottom (facing up in the vise) untill reaching the line I drew on them for the proper angle. When I was happy with the fit, I resealed the bottom edge of my new engine bed with unthickened epoxy. I set it in place using 3M High Strength filler, buttered gratuitiously on the bottom edge (read no voids and a good squeeze out from underboth sides). Use a plastic spreader with one edge rounded, and fillet the outboard side of both beds. This leaves a nice radius for the glass you will put down. Two layers of woven roven will be fine. As mentioned elsewhere if you practice with a small amount of the filler to get the feel of mixing as well as the working time (aka pot life)  The H.S filler terrific! Pre mixed to the right consistency and strong as hell. (make sure they are where you want them when it kicks)   If done well it will be bullet proof. I crossed the Gulf Stream to the Bahamas many times and endured several near knock downs in one nasty thunder storm with gusts to 50kts. The engine never budged, and the alignment never need adjusting after the initial set up. 
                       
                      You can do it!
                       
                      Hope this helps.
                      Steve D.
                      M452 Raisin' Sail
                      Hobe Sound, Fl.
                      --- On Mon, 6/6/11, museenigma <skipfoto@...> wrote:

                      From: museenigma <skipfoto@...>
                      Subject: [morganowners] Re: FIBERGLASS, HERE I GO AGAIN
                      To: morganowners@yahoogroups.com
                      Date: Monday, June 6, 2011, 7:01 PM

                       

                      Well I tried to make it clear that on the canted hull in the engine room where the engine is mounted there are some ship side mounting areas and they have had previous damage and attempts at repairs. Beneath the orginal installation are rectangular prism shaped wooden block that were part of the engine supports. So that is my current project, restoring those engine support blocks to a close to orginal as possible. I am sure that some kind of very hard wood was used in the manufacturing process for strenght and stability, but they have been abused and misused.
                      --- In morganowners@yahoogroups.com, jregar@... wrote:
                      >
                      > What are you fiberglassing?
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      > -----Original Message-----
                      > From: museenigma <skipfoto@...>
                      > To: morganowners <morganowners@yahoogroups.com>
                      > Sent: Mon, Jun 6, 2011 10:22 am
                      > Subject: [morganowners] FIBERGLASS, HERE I GO AGAIN
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      > Okay the engine is out and I have access to the engine compartment, First thing was to install some 110v florescent lights, Bright and nice. kitty litter soaking up the oil and oil stains. Using orange degreaser to clean the grease and oil that the kitty litter left behind. Now for the expertise that is out there. First I noticed some vertical and horizontal lines on the forward and aft engine bulkheads. Could they be reference lines put there by the manufacturer? Has anyone else noticed these lines? I have built a work platform that fits over the pit and intend to replace some damaged areas under where the engine mounts are attached. Any advise or suggestions from anyone who has expertise or who may have been there before me. I have exposed a prism shaped block of some kind of wood and what looks like an attempt at a previous repair using some retangular blocks of wood that have deteriorated. Does anyone know what kind of wood was used to create the sub-st ructure for the engine mounts. I am guessing it is something like "oak". I plan on using layers of freezer paper to protect the work surface from any spills I know are in my future. It just happens. Fiberglass is not something I look forward to and my only exposure to handling the gooey mess was repairing one of my favorite flyrods I slammed the car trunk lid on. It still pulls in trout. So any input would by greatly appreciated. The does and the don't, I have a copy of "The Old Boat by Don Casey", a good guide book. As far as I can tell Mr Casey does not address this kind of problem, an oversite on an old boat I think.
                      >

                    • Karl Burton
                      museenigma: I think the thing with fiberglass/epoxy that you re seeing here is pretty much standard - doing this stuff is in the category of things that seem
                      Message 11 of 17 , Jun 6, 2011
                        museenigma:  I think the thing with fiberglass/epoxy that you're seeing here is pretty much standard - doing this stuff is in the category of "things that seem really hard and complicated and intimidating" until you actually have done it a few times, at which point it moves to the "oh, great, all I need to do to fix this is epoxy in a bunch of brackets and then bolt everything together - not a problem.

                        I don't know if you're a welder, but fiberglassing is a lot like welding - it scares the crap out of people that have never done it and seems like black magic - but you do it a while, and it's like a liberating technology - all of a sudden, you can do all sorts of impossible things and it's not even that hard!
                      • horizon421@gmail.com
                        Thanks for references and authors names. Now I know where to look Being nieve and enexperienced good rereference materiAl is esential. Bob/Sea Mist Sent via
                        Message 12 of 17 , Jun 7, 2011
                          Thanks for references and authors names.

                          Now I know where to look

                          Being nieve and enexperienced good rereference materiAl is esential.
                          Bob/Sea Mist

                          Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T


                          From: jregar@...
                          Sender: morganowners@yahoogroups.com
                          Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2011 22:45:35 -0400 (EDT)
                          To: <morganowners@yahoogroups.com>
                          ReplyTo: morganowners@yahoogroups.com
                          Subject: Re: [morganowners] Re: FIBERGLASS, HERE I GO AGAIN [2 Attachments]

                           

                          Here is all I got!!
                           
                          Capt. Jack




                          -----Original Message-----
                          From: horizon421 <horizon421@...>
                          To: morganowners <morganowners@yahoogroups.com>
                          Sent: Mon, Jun 6, 2011 9:18 pm
                          Subject: Re: [morganowners] Re: FIBERGLASS, HERE I GO AGAIN

                           
                          Hey Jack,while you are being so generous, mind if I stand in line
                          ? Engine on my OI28 is a 12 HP Volvo Md 6B

                          Thanks agAin,

                          BoB,
                          Sea Mist
                          Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

                          Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2011 20:34:02 -0400 (EDT)
                          Subject: Re: [morganowners] Re: FIBERGLASS, HERE I GO AGAIN

                           
                          Fitting a new engine bed in a GRP hull will be straight forward if you have a base to attach.  The whole key is make sure the GRP surface your glassing to is ABSOLUTELY cleaned and prepared, so that the new layers of glass and resin stand a good chance of bounding. (extract from "HOW TO INSTALL A NEW DIESEL" by Peter Cummings, p23-24).
                           
                          How would you like to have this reference?  I'll mail it to you and three other books(Don Casey's Sailboat Hull & Deck Repair, Sailboat Refinishing, Sailboat Electrics Simplifiede) you will need in your reto-fit.  You pay for shipping?
                           
                          What type of engine do you have? Maybe I'll dig up a good reference book there too.
                           
                          Capt. Jack



                          -----Original Message-----
                          From: museenigma <skipfoto@...>
                          To: morganowners <morganowners@yahoogroups.com>
                          Sent: Mon, Jun 6, 2011 7:06 pm
                          Subject: [morganowners] Re: FIBERGLASS, HERE I GO AGAIN

                           

                          Well I tried to make it clear that on the canted hull in the engine room where the engine is mounted there are some ship side mounting areas and they have had previous damage and attempts at repairs. Beneath the orginal installation are rectangular prism shaped wooden block that were part of the engine supports. So that is my current project, restoring those engine support blocks to a close to orginal as possible. I am sure that some kind of very hard wood was used in the manufacturing process for strenght and stability, but they have been abused and misused.
                          --- In morganowners@yahoogroups.com, jregar@... wrote:
                          >
                          > What are you fiberglassing?
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          > -----Original Message-----
                          > From: museenigma <skipfoto@...>
                          > To: morganowners <morganowners@yahoogroups.com>
                          > Sent: Mon, Jun 6, 2011 10:22 am
                          > Subject: [morganowners] FIBERGLASS, HERE I GO AGAIN
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          > Okay the engine is out and I have access to the engine compartment, First thing was to install some 110v florescent lights, Bright and nice. kitty litter soaking up the oil and oil stains. Using orange degreaser to clean the grease and oil that the kitty litter left behind. Now for the expertise that is out there. First I noticed some vertical and horizontal lines on the forward and aft engine bulkheads. Could they be reference lines put there by the manufacturer? Has anyone else noticed these lines? I have built a work platform that fits over the pit and intend to replace some damaged areas under where the engine mounts are attached. Any advise or suggestions from anyone who has expertise or who may have been there before me. I have exposed a prism shaped block of some kind of wood and what looks like an attempt at a previous repair using some retangular blocks of wood that have deteriorated. Does anyone know what kind of wood was used to create the sub-st ruc ture for the engine mounts. I am guessing it is something like "oak". I plan on using layers of freezer paper to protect the work surface from any spills I know are in my future. It just happens. Fiberglass is not something I look forward to and my only exposure to handling the gooey mess was repairing one of my favorite flyrods I slammed the car trunk lid on. It still pulls in trout. So any input would by greatly appreciated. The does and the don't, I have a copy of "The Old Boat by Don Casey", a good guide book. As far as I can tell Mr Casey does not address this kind of problem, an oversite on an old boat I think.
                          >

                        • William Hinca
                          Hey Capt. Jack, Could you send the reference books/articles etc.. to me too? Let me know what it would cost for shipping to Racine, Wi.. Address would be; Wil
                          Message 13 of 17 , Jun 10, 2011
                            Hey Capt. Jack, Could you send the reference books/articles etc.. to me too? Let me know what it would cost for shipping to Racine, Wi.. Address would be; Wil Hinca 1200-A N. Wisconsin St. Racine, Wi. 53402. Thanks! Wil  Grasshopper .>..<.


                            From: "jregar@..." <jregar@...>
                            To: morganowners@yahoogroups.com
                            Sent: Mon, June 6, 2011 7:34:02 PM
                            Subject: Re: [morganowners] Re: FIBERGLASS, HERE I GO AGAIN

                             

                            Fitting a new engine bed in a GRP hull will be straight forward if you have a base to attach.  The whole key is make sure the GRP surface your glassing to is ABSOLUTELY cleaned and prepared, so that the new layers of glass and resin stand a good chance of bounding. (extract from "HOW TO INSTALL A NEW DIESEL" by Peter Cummings, p23-24).
                             
                            How would you like to have this reference?  I'll mail it to you and three other books(Don Casey's Sailboat Hull & Deck Repair, Sailboat Refinishing, Sailboat Electrics Simplifiede) you will need in your reto-fit.  You pay for shipping?
                             
                            What type of engine do you have? Maybe I'll dig up a good reference book there too.
                             
                            Capt. Jack



                            -----Original Message-----
                            From: museenigma <skipfoto@...>
                            To: morganowners <morganowners@yahoogroups.com>
                            Sent: Mon, Jun 6, 2011 7:06 pm
                            Subject: [morganowners] Re: FIBERGLASS, HERE I GO AGAIN

                             

                            Well I tried to make it clear that on the canted hull in the engine room where the engine is mounted there are some ship side mounting areas and they have had previous damage and attempts at repairs. Beneath the orginal installation are rectangular prism shaped wooden block that were part of the engine supports. So that is my current project, restoring those engine support blocks to a close to orginal as possible. I am sure that some kind of very hard wood was used in the manufacturing process for strenght and stability, but they have been abused and misused.
                            --- In morganowners@yahoogroups.com, jregar@... wrote:
                            >
                            > What are you fiberglassing?
                            >
                            >
                            >
                            >
                            >
                            > -----Original Message-----
                            > From: museenigma <skipfoto@...>
                            > To: morganowners <morganowners@yahoogroups.com>
                            > Sent: Mon, Jun 6, 2011 10:22 am
                            > Subject: [morganowners] FIBERGLASS, HERE I GO AGAIN
                            >
                            >
                            >
                            >
                            >
                            > Okay the engine is out and I have access to the engine compartment, First thing was to install some 110v florescent lights, Bright and nice. kitty litter soaking up the oil and oil stains. Using orange degreaser to clean the grease and oil that the kitty litter left behind. Now for the expertise that is out there. First I noticed some vertical and horizontal lines on the forward and aft engine bulkheads. Could they be reference lines put there by the manufacturer? Has anyone else noticed these lines? I have built a work platform that fits over the pit and intend to replace some damaged areas under where the engine mounts are attached. Any advise or suggestions from anyone who has expertise or who may have been there before me. I have exposed a prism shaped block of some kind of wood and what looks like an attempt at a previous repair using some retangular blocks of wood that have deteriorated. Does anyone know what kind of wood was used to create the sub-st ruc ture for the engine mounts. I am guessing it is something like "oak". I plan on using layers of freezer paper to protect the work surface from any spills I know are in my future. It just happens. Fiberglass is not something I look forward to and my only exposure to handling the gooey mess was repairing one of my favorite flyrods I slammed the car trunk lid on. It still pulls in trout. So any input would by greatly appreciated. The does and the don't, I have a copy of "The Old Boat by Don Casey", a good guide book. As far as I can tell Mr Casey does not address this kind of problem, an oversite on an old boat I think.
                            >

                          • William Hinca
                            Sorry I forgot the motor: 4108 Perkins   Thanks again. Wil Grasshopper . .. To:
                            Message 14 of 17 , Jun 10, 2011
                              Sorry I forgot the motor: "4108 Perkins"  Thanks again. Wil Grasshopper .>..<.


                              From: "jregar@..." <jregar@...>
                              To: morganowners@yahoogroups.com
                              Sent: Mon, June 6, 2011 9:45:35 PM
                              Subject: Re: [morganowners] Re: FIBERGLASS, HERE I GO AGAIN [2 Attachments]

                               

                              Here is all I got!!
                               
                              Capt. Jack




                              -----Original Message-----
                              From: horizon421 <horizon421@...>
                              To: morganowners <morganowners@yahoogroups.com>
                              Sent: Mon, Jun 6, 2011 9:18 pm
                              Subject: Re: [morganowners] Re: FIBERGLASS, HERE I GO AGAIN

                               
                              Hey Jack,while you are being so generous, mind if I stand in line
                              ? Engine on my OI28 is a 12 HP Volvo Md 6B

                              Thanks agAin,

                              BoB,
                              Sea Mist
                              Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

                              Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2011 20:34:02 -0400 (EDT)
                              Subject: Re: [morganowners] Re: FIBERGLASS, HERE I GO AGAIN

                               
                              Fitting a new engine bed in a GRP hull will be straight forward if you have a base to attach.  The whole key is make sure the GRP surface your glassing to is ABSOLUTELY cleaned and prepared, so that the new layers of glass and resin stand a good chance of bounding. (extract from "HOW TO INSTALL A NEW DIESEL" by Peter Cummings, p23-24).
                               
                              How would you like to have this reference?  I'll mail it to you and three other books(Don Casey's Sailboat Hull & Deck Repair, Sailboat Refinishing, Sailboat Electrics Simplifiede) you will need in your reto-fit.  You pay for shipping?
                               
                              What type of engine do you have? Maybe I'll dig up a good reference book there too.
                               
                              Capt. Jack



                              -----Original Message-----
                              From: museenigma <skipfoto@...>
                              To: morganowners <morganowners@yahoogroups.com>
                              Sent: Mon, Jun 6, 2011 7:06 pm
                              Subject: [morganowners] Re: FIBERGLASS, HERE I GO AGAIN

                               

                              Well I tried to make it clear that on the canted hull in the engine room where the engine is mounted there are some ship side mounting areas and they have had previous damage and attempts at repairs. Beneath the orginal installation are rectangular prism shaped wooden block that were part of the engine supports. So that is my current project, restoring those engine support blocks to a close to orginal as possible. I am sure that some kind of very hard wood was used in the manufacturing process for strenght and stability, but they have been abused and misused.
                              --- In morganowners@yahoogroups.com, jregar@... wrote:
                              >
                              > What are you fiberglassing?
                              >
                              >
                              >
                              >
                              >
                              > -----Original Message-----
                              > From: museenigma <skipfoto@...>
                              > To: morganowners <morganowners@yahoogroups.com>
                              > Sent: Mon, Jun 6, 2011 10:22 am
                              > Subject: [morganowners] FIBERGLASS, HERE I GO AGAIN
                              >
                              >
                              >
                              >
                              >
                              > Okay the engine is out and I have access to the engine compartment, First thing was to install some 110v florescent lights, Bright and nice. kitty litter soaking up the oil and oil stains. Using orange degreaser to clean the grease and oil that the kitty litter left behind. Now for the expertise that is out there. First I noticed some vertical and horizontal lines on the forward and aft engine bulkheads. Could they be reference lines put there by the manufacturer? Has anyone else noticed these lines? I have built a work platform that fits over the pit and intend to replace some damaged areas under where the engine mounts are attached. Any advise or suggestions from anyone who has expertise or who may have been there before me. I have exposed a prism shaped block of some kind of wood and what looks like an attempt at a previous repair using some retangular blocks of wood that have deteriorated. Does anyone know what kind of wood was used to create the sub-st ruc ture for the engine mounts. I am guessing it is something like "oak". I plan on using layers of freezer paper to protect the work surface from any spills I know are in my future. It just happens. Fiberglass is not something I look forward to and my only exposure to handling the gooey mess was repairing one of my favorite flyrods I slammed the car trunk lid on. It still pulls in trout. So any input would by greatly appreciated. The does and the don't, I have a copy of "The Old Boat by Don Casey", a good guide book. As far as I can tell Mr Casey does not address this kind of problem, an oversite on an old boat I think.
                              >

                            • jregar@aol.com
                              The reference books I spoke about are hard back, I don t have then scanned. I put it out there for the novice guy, who keeps asking questions most of us have
                              Message 15 of 17 , Jun 10, 2011
                                The reference books I spoke about are hard back, I don't have then scanned.  I put it out there for the novice guy, who keeps asking questions most of us have researched before we asked.
                                 
                                There was no response I saw on the blog for the books, so yes, I'll send them to William Hinca.
                                 
                                Capt. Jack




                                -----Original Message-----
                                From: William Hinca <v_h1rider@...>
                                To: morganowners <morganowners@yahoogroups.com>
                                Sent: Fri, Jun 10, 2011 8:17 am
                                Subject: Re: [morganowners] Re: FIBERGLASS, HERE I GO AGAIN

                                 
                                Hey Capt. Jack, Could you send the reference books/articles etc.. to me too? Let me know what it would cost for shipping to Racine, Wi.. Address would be; Wil Hinca 1200-A N. Wisconsin St. Racine, Wi. 53402. Thanks! Wil  Grasshopper .>..<.


                                From: "jregar@..." <jregar@...>
                                To: morganowners@yahoogroups.com
                                Sent: Mon, June 6, 2011 7:34:02 PM
                                Subject: Re: [morganowners] Re: FIBERGLASS, HERE I GO AGAIN

                                 
                                Fitting a new engine bed in a GRP hull will be straight forward if you have a base to attach.  The whole key is make sure the GRP surface your glassing to is ABSOLUTELY cleaned and prepared, so that the new layers of glass and resin stand a good chance of bounding. (extract from "HOW TO INSTALL A NEW DIESEL" by Peter Cummings, p23-24).
                                 
                                How would you like to have this reference?  I'll mail it to you and three other books(Don Casey's Sailboat Hull & Deck Repair, Sailboat Refinishing, Sailboat Electrics Simplifiede) you will need in your reto-fit.  You pay for shipping?
                                 
                                What type of engine do you have? Maybe I'll dig up a good reference book there too.
                                 
                                Capt. Jack



                                -----Original Message-----
                                From: museenigma <skipfoto@...>
                                To: morganowners <morganowners@yahoogroups.com>
                                Sent: Mon, Jun 6, 2011 7:06 pm
                                Subject: [morganowners] Re: FIBERGLASS, HERE I GO AGAIN

                                 

                                Well I tried to make it clear that on the canted hull in the engine room where the engine is mounted there are some ship side mounting areas and they have had previous damage and attempts at repairs. Beneath the orginal installation are rectangular prism shaped wooden block that were part of the engine supports. So that is my current project, restoring those engine support blocks to a close to orginal as possible. I am sure that some kind of very hard wood was used in the manufacturing process for strenght and stability, but they have been abused and misused.
                                --- In morganowners@yahoogroups.com, jregar@... wrote:
                                >
                                > What are you fiberglassing?
                                >
                                >
                                >
                                >
                                >
                                > -----Original Message-----
                                > From: museenigma <skipfoto@...>
                                > To: morganowners <morganowners@yahoogroups.com>
                                > Sent: Mon, Jun 6, 2011 10:22 am
                                > Subject: [morganowners] FIBERGLASS, HERE I GO AGAIN
                                >
                                >
                                >
                                >
                                >
                                > Okay the engine is out and I have access to the engine compartment, First thing was to install some 110v florescent lights, Bright and nice. kitty litter soaking up the oil and oil stains. Using orange degreaser to clean the grease and oil that the kitty litter left behind. Now for the expertise that is out there. First I noticed some vertical and horizontal lines on the forward and aft engine bulkheads. Could they be reference lines put there by the manufacturer? Has anyone else noticed these lines? I have built a work platform that fits over the pit and intend to replace some damaged areas under where the engine mounts are attached. Any advise or suggestions from anyone who has expertise or who may have been there before me. I have exposed a prism shaped block of some kind of wood and what looks like an attempt at a previous repair using some retangular blocks of wood that have deteriorated. Does anyone know what kind of wood was used to create the sub-st ruc ture for the engine mounts. I am guessing it is something like "oak". I plan on using layers of freezer paper to protect the work surface from any spills I know are in my future. It just happens. Fiberglass is not something I look forward to and my only exposure to handling the gooey mess was repairing one of my favorite flyrods I slammed the car trunk lid on. It still pulls in trout. So any input would by greatly appreciated. The does and the don't, I have a copy of "The Old Boat by Don Casey", a good guide book. As far as I can tell Mr Casey does not address this kind of problem, an oversite on an old boat I think.
                                >

                              • jregar@aol.com
                                PERKINS 4-108 manuals attached 1 of 3 ... From: William Hinca To: morganowners Sent: Fri, Jun 10, 2011
                                Message 16 of 17 , Jun 10, 2011
                                PERKINS 4-108 manuals attached 1 of 3



                                -----Original Message-----
                                From: William Hinca <v_h1rider@...>
                                To: morganowners <morganowners@yahoogroups.com>
                                Sent: Fri, Jun 10, 2011 8:21 am
                                Subject: Re: [morganowners] Re: FIBERGLASS, HERE I GO AGAIN

                                 
                                Sorry I forgot the motor: "4108 Perkins"  Thanks again. Wil Grasshopper .>..<.


                                From: "jregar@..." <jregar@...>
                                To: morganowners@yahoogroups.com
                                Sent: Mon, June 6, 2011 9:45:35 PM
                                Subject: Re: [morganowners] Re: FIBERGLASS, HERE I GO AGAIN [2 Attachments]

                                 
                                Here is all I got!!
                                 
                                Capt. Jack




                                -----Original Message-----
                                From: horizon421 <horizon421@...>
                                To: morganowners <morganowners@yahoogroups.com>
                                Sent: Mon, Jun 6, 2011 9:18 pm
                                Subject: Re: [morganowners] Re: FIBERGLASS, HERE I GO AGAIN

                                 
                                Hey Jack,while you are being so generous, mind if I stand in line
                                ? Engine on my OI28 is a 12 HP Volvo Md 6B

                                Thanks agAin,

                                BoB,
                                Sea Mist
                                Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

                                Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2011 20:34:02 -0400 (EDT)
                                Subject: Re: [morganowners] Re: FIBERGLASS, HERE I GO AGAIN

                                 
                                Fitting a new engine bed in a GRP hull will be straight forward if you have a base to attach.  The whole key is make sure the GRP surface your glassing to is ABSOLUTELY cleaned and prepared, so that the new layers of glass and resin stand a good chance of bounding. (extract from "HOW TO INSTALL A NEW DIESEL" by Peter Cummings, p23-24).
                                 
                                How would you like to have this reference?  I'll mail it to you and three other books(Don Casey's Sailboat Hull & Deck Repair, Sailboat Refinishing, Sailboat Electrics Simplifiede) you will need in your reto-fit.  You pay for shipping?
                                 
                                What type of engine do you have? Maybe I'll dig up a good reference book there too.
                                 
                                Capt. Jack



                                -----Original Message-----
                                From: museenigma <skipfoto@...>
                                To: morganowners <morganowners@yahoogroups.com>
                                Sent: Mon, Jun 6, 2011 7:06 pm
                                Subject: [morganowners] Re: FIBERGLASS, HERE I GO AGAIN

                                 

                                Well I tried to make it clear that on the canted hull in the engine room where the engine is mounted there are some ship side mounting areas and they have had previous damage and attempts at repairs. Beneath the orginal installation are rectangular prism shaped wooden block that were part of the engine supports. So that is my current project, restoring those engine support blocks to a close to orginal as possible. I am sure that some kind of very hard wood was used in the manufacturing process for strenght and stability, but they have been abused and misused.
                                --- In morganowners@yahoogroups.com, jregar@... wrote:
                                >
                                > What are you fiberglassing?
                                >
                                >
                                >
                                >
                                >
                                > -----Original Message-----
                                > From: museenigma <skipfoto@...>
                                > To: morganowners <morganowners@yahoogroups.com>
                                > Sent: Mon, Jun 6, 2011 10:22 am
                                > Subject: [morganowners] FIBERGLASS, HERE I GO AGAIN
                                >
                                >
                                >
                                >
                                >
                                > Okay the engine is out and I have access to the engine compartment, First thing was to install some 110v florescent lights, Bright and nice. kitty litter soaking up the oil and oil stains. Using orange degreaser to clean the grease and oil that the kitty litter left behind. Now for the expertise that is out there. First I noticed some vertical and horizontal lines on the forward and aft engine bulkheads. Could they be reference lines put there by the manufacturer? Has anyone else noticed these lines? I have built a work platform that fits over the pit and intend to replace some damaged areas under where the engine mounts are attached. Any advise or suggestions from anyone who has expertise or who may have been there before me. I have exposed a prism shaped block of some kind of wood and what looks like an attempt at a previous repair using some retangular blocks of wood that have deteriorated. Does anyone know what kind of wood was used to create the sub-st ruc ture for the engine mounts. I am guessing it is something like "oak". I plan on using layers of freezer paper to protect the work surface from any spills I know are in my future. It just happens. Fiberglass is not something I look forward to and my only exposure to handling the gooey mess was repairing one of my favorite flyrods I slammed the car trunk lid on. It still pulls in trout. So any input would by greatly appreciated. The does and the don't, I have a copy of "The Old Boat by Don Casey", a good guide book. As far as I can tell Mr Casey does not address this kind of problem, an oversite on an old boat I think.
                                >

                              • museenigma
                                THE ENGINE I HAVE HAS AN ENGINE NUMBER OF LD20663-U255401S
                                Message 17 of 17 , Jun 11, 2011
                                  THE ENGINE I HAVE HAS AN ENGINE NUMBER OF LD20663-U255401S

                                  --- In morganowners@yahoogroups.com, jregar@... wrote:
                                  >
                                  >
                                  > Fitting a new engine bed in a GRP hull will be straight forward if you have a base to attach. The whole key is make sure the GRP surface your glassing to is ABSOLUTELY cleaned and prepared, so that the new layers of glass and resin stand a good chance of bounding. (extract from "HOW TO INSTALL A NEW DIESEL" by Peter Cummings, p23-24).
                                  >
                                  > How would you like to have this reference? I'll mail it to you and three other books(Don Casey's Sailboat Hull & Deck Repair, Sailboat Refinishing, Sailboat Electrics Simplifiede) you will need in your reto-fit. You pay for shipping?
                                  >
                                  > What type of engine do you have? Maybe I'll dig up a good reference book there too.
                                  >
                                  > Capt. Jack
                                  >
                                  >
                                  >
                                  >
                                  >
                                  >
                                  > -----Original Message-----
                                  > From: museenigma <skipfoto@...>
                                  > To: morganowners <morganowners@yahoogroups.com>
                                  > Sent: Mon, Jun 6, 2011 7:06 pm
                                  > Subject: [morganowners] Re: FIBERGLASS, HERE I GO AGAIN
                                  >
                                  >
                                  >
                                  >
                                  >
                                  >
                                  > Well I tried to make it clear that on the canted hull in the engine room where the engine is mounted there are some ship side mounting areas and they have had previous damage and attempts at repairs. Beneath the orginal installation are rectangular prism shaped wooden block that were part of the engine supports. So that is my current project, restoring those engine support blocks to a close to orginal as possible. I am sure that some kind of very hard wood was used in the manufacturing process for strenght and stability, but they have been abused and misused.
                                  > --- In morganowners@yahoogroups.com, jregar@ wrote:
                                  > >
                                  > > What are you fiberglassing?
                                  > >
                                  > >
                                  > >
                                  > >
                                  > >
                                  > > -----Original Message-----
                                  > > From: museenigma <skipfoto@>
                                  > > To: morganowners <morganowners@yahoogroups.com>
                                  > > Sent: Mon, Jun 6, 2011 10:22 am
                                  > > Subject: [morganowners] FIBERGLASS, HERE I GO AGAIN
                                  > >
                                  > >
                                  > >
                                  > >
                                  > >
                                  > > Okay the engine is out and I have access to the engine compartment, First thing was to install some 110v florescent lights, Bright and nice. kitty litter soaking up the oil and oil stains. Using orange degreaser to clean the grease and oil that the kitty litter left behind. Now for the expertise that is out there. First I noticed some vertical and horizontal lines on the forward and aft engine bulkheads. Could they be reference lines put there by the manufacturer? Has anyone else noticed these lines? I have built a work platform that fits over the pit and intend to replace some damaged areas under where the engine mounts are attached. Any advise or suggestions from anyone who has expertise or who may have been there before me. I have exposed a prism shaped block of some kind of wood and what looks like an attempt at a previous repair using some retangular blocks of wood that have deteriorated. Does anyone know what kind of wood was used to create the sub-st ruc ture for the engine mounts. I am guessing it is something like "oak". I plan on using layers of freezer paper to protect the work surface from any spills I know are in my future. It just happens. Fiberglass is not something I look forward to and my only exposure to handling the gooey mess was repairing one of my favorite flyrods I slammed the car trunk lid on. It still pulls in trout. So any input would by greatly appreciated. The does and the don't, I have a copy of "The Old Boat by Don Casey", a good guide book. As far as I can tell Mr Casey does not address this kind of problem, an oversite on an old boat I think.
                                  > >
                                  >
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