Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

Re: [mlathemods] carriage lock my way

Expand Messages
  • corey renner
    Ok. I posted a pic in the Photo section under !Corey. Here is a link that may or may not work.
    Message 1 of 4 , Feb 26, 2005
    • 0 Attachment
      Ok.
      I posted a pic in the Photo section under !Corey. Here is a link that
      may or may not work.

      http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/mlathemods/lst?.dir=/!Corey&.src=gr&.done=http%3a//photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/mlathemods/lst%3f%26.dir=/!Corey/Carriage%2block%26.src=gr%26.view=t&.view=t

      Here are the highlights that may not be immediately apparent:

      1. The upper support bar straddles the saddle, but is just short
      enough on each end that all of the crosslide gib adjustment screws can
      easily be adjusted.

      2. The Inverted t-block that rides inside the bed, is a nice fit so it
      does not have any tendency to snag. Loosen your tailstock and slide
      it around and you will see what I mean, it catches and loosens and
      doesn't move entirely smoothly. This carraige lock does. The gap
      between the front and rear ways varied by a distance of .030 from the
      middle to the ends. Had to recut the t-block to compensate.

      3. The rod that connects the t-block to its nut is 3/16 drill rod. It
      is pinned to the t-block and is only threaded the last 1/2' or so.
      The hole through the upper support is reamed to be a nice tight fit
      for the drill rod. This prevents any wobble which would lead to
      uneven motion.

      4. The nut itself is 1/2" dia and made of SS, it clears the bottom of
      the compound by about .015 It is tapped in 6 positions around its
      perimeter so that lockup can be achieved with the handle precisely
      where I want it. I didn't want to have to mess with shims or have the
      carriage lock with the tommy bar in an awkward position. It was
      actually tapped 3x all the way through (rather than 6 times and
      bottoming). Then, to ensure that there was plenty of thread
      engagement for the tension bolt, a 1/4" dia piece of drillrod was
      tapped 10-24 and pressed & loctited into the center. You can see that
      with all the crisscrossing tommy bar holes, there wouldn't have been
      much "meat" left to tap. Doing it this way with the insert avoided
      all of those messy bottom-tapping operations in SS (which is miserable
      to tap). All items are threaded 10-24 (mounting holes, tommy bar,
      tension bolt). I normally would have tapped the saddle for metric
      hardware, but I only have fine metric taps and coarse threads are
      correct in cast iron.

      5. The tommy bar is also 3/16 drill rod

      It works beautifully.

      cheers,
      c

      On Sat, 26 Feb 2005 18:25:39 -0800, James Early <j.w.early@...> wrote:
      >
      > Corey
      > Please do, I am sure many will find them interesting. There is lots of room
      > in the photo section.
      > JWE
      > Long Beach, CA
      > Barry Goldwater
      > A government that is big enough to give you all you want is big enough to
      > take it all away.
      >
    • Ellis Cory
      I made a similar version, using 5/8 X 5/8 angle iron. The clamping bolt was the same as the pinch bolts on the 4 way toolpost and I replaced the tailstock
      Message 2 of 4 , Feb 27, 2005
      • 0 Attachment
        I made a similar version, using 5/8 X 5/8 angle iron. The clamping bolt was the same as the pinch bolts on the 4 way toolpost and I replaced the tailstock clamping bolt as well, that way I only have one ball ended allen wrench for several jobs.
        HTH
        Ellis
        ----------

        No virus found in this outgoing message.
        Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
        Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 266.5.0 - Release Date: 25/02/2005


        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.