Re: [mlathemods] carriage lock my way
Please do, I am sure many will find them interesting. There is lots of room
in the photo section.
Long Beach, CA
A government that is big enough to give you all you want is big enough to
take it all away.
----- Original Message -----
From: corey94945 <vandal968@...>
Sent: Saturday, February 26, 2005 5:28 PM
Subject: [mlathemods] carriage lock my way
> Four years after getting my Grizzly 7x12, I have finally built what
> should have been my first mod. A decent carriage lock. I held off
> for a long time because I saw problems with all of the other designs,
> but hadn't thought of a better way until a week or two ago. IMHO this
> is the best design yet. It mounts on the tailstock end of the
> carriage, clamps from beneath, is very simple, doesn't block the
> compound, doesn't block the gib adjusters on the cross-feed, doesn't
> have a way to come loose, and has lots of adjustment for tommy-bar
> position. I can post pics if anyone is interested.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
I posted a pic in the Photo section under !Corey. Here is a link that
may or may not work.
Here are the highlights that may not be immediately apparent:
1. The upper support bar straddles the saddle, but is just short
enough on each end that all of the crosslide gib adjustment screws can
easily be adjusted.
2. The Inverted t-block that rides inside the bed, is a nice fit so it
does not have any tendency to snag. Loosen your tailstock and slide
it around and you will see what I mean, it catches and loosens and
doesn't move entirely smoothly. This carraige lock does. The gap
between the front and rear ways varied by a distance of .030 from the
middle to the ends. Had to recut the t-block to compensate.
3. The rod that connects the t-block to its nut is 3/16 drill rod. It
is pinned to the t-block and is only threaded the last 1/2' or so.
The hole through the upper support is reamed to be a nice tight fit
for the drill rod. This prevents any wobble which would lead to
4. The nut itself is 1/2" dia and made of SS, it clears the bottom of
the compound by about .015 It is tapped in 6 positions around its
perimeter so that lockup can be achieved with the handle precisely
where I want it. I didn't want to have to mess with shims or have the
carriage lock with the tommy bar in an awkward position. It was
actually tapped 3x all the way through (rather than 6 times and
bottoming). Then, to ensure that there was plenty of thread
engagement for the tension bolt, a 1/4" dia piece of drillrod was
tapped 10-24 and pressed & loctited into the center. You can see that
with all the crisscrossing tommy bar holes, there wouldn't have been
much "meat" left to tap. Doing it this way with the insert avoided
all of those messy bottom-tapping operations in SS (which is miserable
to tap). All items are threaded 10-24 (mounting holes, tommy bar,
tension bolt). I normally would have tapped the saddle for metric
hardware, but I only have fine metric taps and coarse threads are
correct in cast iron.
5. The tommy bar is also 3/16 drill rod
It works beautifully.
On Sat, 26 Feb 2005 18:25:39 -0800, James Early <j.w.early@...> wrote:
> Please do, I am sure many will find them interesting. There is lots of room
> in the photo section.
> Long Beach, CA
> Barry Goldwater
> A government that is big enough to give you all you want is big enough to
> take it all away.
- I made a similar version, using 5/8 X 5/8 angle iron. The clamping bolt was the same as the pinch bolts on the 4 way toolpost and I replaced the tailstock clamping bolt as well, that way I only have one ball ended allen wrench for several jobs.
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 266.5.0 - Release Date: 25/02/2005
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]