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Re: [mlathemods] carriage lock my way

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  • James Early
    Corey Please do, I am sure many will find them interesting. There is lots of room in the photo section. JWE Long Beach, CA Barry Goldwater A government that is
    Message 1 of 4 , Feb 26, 2005
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      Corey
      Please do, I am sure many will find them interesting. There is lots of room
      in the photo section.
      JWE
      Long Beach, CA
      Barry Goldwater
      A government that is big enough to give you all you want is big enough to
      take it all away.



      ----- Original Message -----
      From: corey94945 <vandal968@...>
      To: <mlathemods@yahoogroups.com>
      Sent: Saturday, February 26, 2005 5:28 PM
      Subject: [mlathemods] carriage lock my way


      >
      >
      > Four years after getting my Grizzly 7x12, I have finally built what
      > should have been my first mod. A decent carriage lock. I held off
      > for a long time because I saw problems with all of the other designs,
      > but hadn't thought of a better way until a week or two ago. IMHO this
      > is the best design yet. It mounts on the tailstock end of the
      > carriage, clamps from beneath, is very simple, doesn't block the
      > compound, doesn't block the gib adjusters on the cross-feed, doesn't
      > have a way to come loose, and has lots of adjustment for tommy-bar
      > position. I can post pics if anyone is interested.
      >
      > best,
      > c
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      > Yahoo! Groups Links
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
    • corey renner
      Ok. I posted a pic in the Photo section under !Corey. Here is a link that may or may not work.
      Message 2 of 4 , Feb 26, 2005
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        Ok.
        I posted a pic in the Photo section under !Corey. Here is a link that
        may or may not work.

        http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/mlathemods/lst?.dir=/!Corey&.src=gr&.done=http%3a//photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/mlathemods/lst%3f%26.dir=/!Corey/Carriage%2block%26.src=gr%26.view=t&.view=t

        Here are the highlights that may not be immediately apparent:

        1. The upper support bar straddles the saddle, but is just short
        enough on each end that all of the crosslide gib adjustment screws can
        easily be adjusted.

        2. The Inverted t-block that rides inside the bed, is a nice fit so it
        does not have any tendency to snag. Loosen your tailstock and slide
        it around and you will see what I mean, it catches and loosens and
        doesn't move entirely smoothly. This carraige lock does. The gap
        between the front and rear ways varied by a distance of .030 from the
        middle to the ends. Had to recut the t-block to compensate.

        3. The rod that connects the t-block to its nut is 3/16 drill rod. It
        is pinned to the t-block and is only threaded the last 1/2' or so.
        The hole through the upper support is reamed to be a nice tight fit
        for the drill rod. This prevents any wobble which would lead to
        uneven motion.

        4. The nut itself is 1/2" dia and made of SS, it clears the bottom of
        the compound by about .015 It is tapped in 6 positions around its
        perimeter so that lockup can be achieved with the handle precisely
        where I want it. I didn't want to have to mess with shims or have the
        carriage lock with the tommy bar in an awkward position. It was
        actually tapped 3x all the way through (rather than 6 times and
        bottoming). Then, to ensure that there was plenty of thread
        engagement for the tension bolt, a 1/4" dia piece of drillrod was
        tapped 10-24 and pressed & loctited into the center. You can see that
        with all the crisscrossing tommy bar holes, there wouldn't have been
        much "meat" left to tap. Doing it this way with the insert avoided
        all of those messy bottom-tapping operations in SS (which is miserable
        to tap). All items are threaded 10-24 (mounting holes, tommy bar,
        tension bolt). I normally would have tapped the saddle for metric
        hardware, but I only have fine metric taps and coarse threads are
        correct in cast iron.

        5. The tommy bar is also 3/16 drill rod

        It works beautifully.

        cheers,
        c

        On Sat, 26 Feb 2005 18:25:39 -0800, James Early <j.w.early@...> wrote:
        >
        > Corey
        > Please do, I am sure many will find them interesting. There is lots of room
        > in the photo section.
        > JWE
        > Long Beach, CA
        > Barry Goldwater
        > A government that is big enough to give you all you want is big enough to
        > take it all away.
        >
      • Ellis Cory
        I made a similar version, using 5/8 X 5/8 angle iron. The clamping bolt was the same as the pinch bolts on the 4 way toolpost and I replaced the tailstock
        Message 3 of 4 , Feb 27, 2005
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          I made a similar version, using 5/8 X 5/8 angle iron. The clamping bolt was the same as the pinch bolts on the 4 way toolpost and I replaced the tailstock clamping bolt as well, that way I only have one ball ended allen wrench for several jobs.
          HTH
          Ellis
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