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Re: Those darn little ferrules... and more about Mirage 5.5 #220

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  • tampa_hillbilly
    Billy, Thanks for the info about the ferrules. Pictures will definately help because my first pass through your description was a bit confusing. But I am
    Message 1 of 5 , Jan 1, 2003
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      Billy,

      Thanks for the info about the ferrules. Pictures will definately help
      because my first pass through your description was a bit confusing.
      But I am trainable.

      Not sure why your hull blistered so quick in the water. If the gel
      coat is intact, I don't think it should have blistered. Anyhow, a
      good coat of epoxy followed by an anti-fouling coat can only help.

      My jib sheets go straight to the toe rail blocks. I have two on each
      side about 36 inches apart. Closest to the bow is for the 100% jib
      and the back ones are for the 140% genoa. Right or wrong, that is how
      it was set up when I got the boat, and seems to be good for the
      sails. They have a nice curve to them at most sheet tensions.
      Everyone knows you can not sail pretty if you do not have pretty
      sails. <grin>

      When you get the urge to share your good and bad moments, type away.
      Even when I do not comment, I still enjoy reading about the Mirage.

      Mike



      --- In mirageownersclub@yahoogroups.com, billy_eno <no_reply@y...>
      wrote:
      > > What is the purpose of the ferrules mounted on the deck over the
      > > cabin? Mine are mounted about a foot above the teak hand rails.
      >
      > Those are there to attach blocks to. When you are using your 100%
      > Jib, the sheets should go through the blocks attached to those
      little
      > loops, through the bullseye Fairleads, then down to the blocks
      clipped
      > to the toe-rail and to the winches. If you are going directly to
      the
      > bullseye fairleads then you likely have way too much tension on the
      > foot, and the top of the sail will never fly.
      >
      > Because my 100% jib is so old and stretched out, I actually replaced
      > the little loops with track, so I can adjust the lead. Then, if I
      > want to de-power by tightening the foor (and letting the top spill
      > off) I can just move the jib cars aft. Also, If you have a track,
      you
      > can bypass the fairleads and go directly to the toe rail, this
      reduces
      > a lot of friction. Before I got the jib track, I tried bypassing
      the
      > fairlead with just the little loops, and it looked like the sideways
      > force was deforming the loops, so I went back to using the fairlead.
      >
      > I will post pictures of my rigging as soon as I can. I have been
      > doing a lot of upgrading. I have now led the jib and main halyards
      > aft to the top of the cabin door, along with the reefing line, the
      > cunningham and outhaul. It is a lot of lines, but it makes
      adjusting
      > the trim of the sail very easy. I recently added a traveller, which
      > is working really well. And, I have spent about 7 hours this week
      > sanding the bottom of my boat in preparation for epoxy and bottom
      > paint. It apparently has spent most of its life dry-sailed and
      still
      > had a bare gelcoat bottom. I had it in the water about 2 months and
      > it started to blister so it was time to put a real bottom on it. I
      > also dropped the keel so I could seal it up and paint it. It is
      still
      > a bare casting, so I am going to smooth it up and improve the shape
      of
      > the leading edge some.
      >
      > I am doing all of the bottom work under the supervision of a friend
      of
      > mine who does this for a living, so I have all the right tools and
      > advice. If anybody wants more details, let me know and I will be
      glad
      > to share more.
      >
      > -Billy
      > Mirage 5.5 #220, Lake Travis, TX
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