Re: Those darn little ferrules... and more about Mirage 5.5 #220
Thanks for the info about the ferrules. Pictures will definately help
because my first pass through your description was a bit confusing.
But I am trainable.
Not sure why your hull blistered so quick in the water. If the gel
coat is intact, I don't think it should have blistered. Anyhow, a
good coat of epoxy followed by an anti-fouling coat can only help.
My jib sheets go straight to the toe rail blocks. I have two on each
side about 36 inches apart. Closest to the bow is for the 100% jib
and the back ones are for the 140% genoa. Right or wrong, that is how
it was set up when I got the boat, and seems to be good for the
sails. They have a nice curve to them at most sheet tensions.
Everyone knows you can not sail pretty if you do not have pretty
When you get the urge to share your good and bad moments, type away.
Even when I do not comment, I still enjoy reading about the Mirage.
--- In firstname.lastname@example.org, billy_eno <no_reply@y...>
> > What is the purpose of the ferrules mounted on the deck over thelittle
> > cabin? Mine are mounted about a foot above the teak hand rails.
> Those are there to attach blocks to. When you are using your 100%
> Jib, the sheets should go through the blocks attached to those
> loops, through the bullseye Fairleads, then down to the blocksclipped
> to the toe-rail and to the winches. If you are going directly tothe
> bullseye fairleads then you likely have way too much tension on theyou
> foot, and the top of the sail will never fly.
> Because my 100% jib is so old and stretched out, I actually replaced
> the little loops with track, so I can adjust the lead. Then, if I
> want to de-power by tightening the foor (and letting the top spill
> off) I can just move the jib cars aft. Also, If you have a track,
> can bypass the fairleads and go directly to the toe rail, thisreduces
> a lot of friction. Before I got the jib track, I tried bypassingthe
> fairlead with just the little loops, and it looked like the sidewaysadjusting
> force was deforming the loops, so I went back to using the fairlead.
> I will post pictures of my rigging as soon as I can. I have been
> doing a lot of upgrading. I have now led the jib and main halyards
> aft to the top of the cabin door, along with the reefing line, the
> cunningham and outhaul. It is a lot of lines, but it makes
> the trim of the sail very easy. I recently added a traveller, whichstill
> is working really well. And, I have spent about 7 hours this week
> sanding the bottom of my boat in preparation for epoxy and bottom
> paint. It apparently has spent most of its life dry-sailed and
> had a bare gelcoat bottom. I had it in the water about 2 months andstill
> it started to blister so it was time to put a real bottom on it. I
> also dropped the keel so I could seal it up and paint it. It is
> a bare casting, so I am going to smooth it up and improve the shapeof
> the leading edge some.of
> I am doing all of the bottom work under the supervision of a friend
> mine who does this for a living, so I have all the right tools andglad
> advice. If anybody wants more details, let me know and I will be
> to share more.
> Mirage 5.5 #220, Lake Travis, TX