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Keel Clearances

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  • paul
    For the life of me I do not understand why there is a 3/8 clearance between keel board and inside of trunk. The design makes no sense whatsoever. I have
    Message 1 of 5 , Jun 1, 2011
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      For the life of me I do not understand why there is a 3/8" clearance between keel board and inside of trunk. The design makes no sense whatsoever. I have placed (2) 3/16" shims, one on each side of the keel made from plastic cutting boards from my spouses kitchen. I drilled and tapped the keel and used brass flathead machine screws to mount the shims. I'll get some photos up.
    • Captain Paul
      Paul, I did the same thing using Ultra UHMW from McMaster Carr. I posted pictures a couple years ago in my photo folder jensen_53 . I got tired of the
      Message 2 of 5 , Jun 1, 2011
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        Paul,
        I did the same thing using "Ultra UHMW" from McMaster Carr. I posted pictures a couple years ago in my photo folder "jensen_53". I got tired of the klunking each time I'd tack. Others have had success with carpet and other materials.
        Paul Jensen
        "Discovery"

        --- In mirageownersclub@yahoogroups.com, "paul" <gleninst@...> wrote:
        >
        > For the life of me I do not understand why there is a 3/8" clearance between keel board and inside of trunk. The design makes no sense whatsoever. I have placed (2) 3/16" shims, one on each side of the keel made from plastic cutting boards from my spouses kitchen. I drilled and tapped the keel and used brass flathead machine screws to mount the shims. I'll get some photos up.
        >
      • Mark
        The clunking is due to a worn/corroded keel around the keel pin ideally there should be no play. From looking at this group s postings and pictures I d say
        Message 3 of 5 , Jun 1, 2011
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          The clunking is due to a worn/corroded keel around the keel pin ideally there should be no play. From looking at this group's postings and pictures I'd say that this is a very common problem with the 5.5.
          Although I know it's not the ideal solution I used 2 pieces or 3/8 plywood painted with fiberglass resin as shims they have been in place for about 5 years, using galvanized tie wire to hold them for now it's working.
          Next winter I'll drop the keel and either install a bigger pin or a bushing to fill in the gap, as a lot of members have already done.
          For those of you who have (or have not)fixed their keel problems I cannot stress enough the importance of putting an anode on it if it'll stay in the water for more than a few days.

          google "cathodic protection"

          it's a lot cheaper than trying to replace a keel.



          --- In mirageownersclub@yahoogroups.com, "Captain Paul" <jensen_53@...> wrote:
          >
          > Paul,
          > I did the same thing using "Ultra UHMW" from McMaster Carr. I posted pictures a couple years ago in my photo folder "jensen_53". I got tired of the klunking each time I'd tack. Others have had success with carpet and other materials.
          > Paul Jensen
          > "Discovery"
          >
          > --- In mirageownersclub@yahoogroups.com, "paul" <gleninst@> wrote:
          > >
          > > For the life of me I do not understand why there is a 3/8" clearance between keel board and inside of trunk. The design makes no sense whatsoever. I have placed (2) 3/16" shims, one on each side of the keel made from plastic cutting boards from my spouses kitchen. I drilled and tapped the keel and used brass flathead machine screws to mount the shims. I'll get some photos up.
          > >
          >
        • txalfanut
          that s a good idea to add an anode....so you basically mount it on the keel somewhere, right? I looked online, and I see many different types. I guess any
          Message 4 of 5 , Jun 2, 2011
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            that's a good idea to add an anode....so you basically mount it on the keel somewhere, right? I looked online, and I see many different types. I guess any regular zinc anode would work? I looked on this site but could not find what others use. What did you use?
            thanks, Peter

            --- In mirageownersclub@yahoogroups.com, "Mark " <musmus@...> wrote:
            >
            > The clunking is due to a worn/corroded keel around the keel pin ideally there should be no play. From looking at this group's postings and pictures I'd say that this is a very common problem with the 5.5.
            > Although I know it's not the ideal solution I used 2 pieces or 3/8 plywood painted with fiberglass resin as shims they have been in place for about 5 years, using galvanized tie wire to hold them for now it's working.
            > Next winter I'll drop the keel and either install a bigger pin or a bushing to fill in the gap, as a lot of members have already done.
            > For those of you who have (or have not)fixed their keel problems I cannot stress enough the importance of putting an anode on it if it'll stay in the water for more than a few days.
            >
            > google "cathodic protection"
            >
            > it's a lot cheaper than trying to replace a keel.
            >
            >
            >
            > --- In mirageownersclub@yahoogroups.com, "Captain Paul" <jensen_53@> wrote:
            > >
            > > Paul,
            > > I did the same thing using "Ultra UHMW" from McMaster Carr. I posted pictures a couple years ago in my photo folder "jensen_53". I got tired of the klunking each time I'd tack. Others have had success with carpet and other materials.
            > > Paul Jensen
            > > "Discovery"
            > >
            > > --- In mirageownersclub@yahoogroups.com, "paul" <gleninst@> wrote:
            > > >
            > > > For the life of me I do not understand why there is a 3/8" clearance between keel board and inside of trunk. The design makes no sense whatsoever. I have placed (2) 3/16" shims, one on each side of the keel made from plastic cutting boards from my spouses kitchen. I drilled and tapped the keel and used brass flathead machine screws to mount the shims. I'll get some photos up.
            > > >
            > >
            >
          • Mark
            Since my boat doesn t stay in the water for more than a few hours at a time, I haven t installed one yet. Once I fix the keel pin and do some work on my keel
            Message 5 of 5 , Jun 2, 2011
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              Since my boat doesn't stay in the water for more than a few hours at a time, I haven't installed one yet.
              Once I fix the keel pin and do some work on my keel (this winter) I'm going to put a magnesium anode on it probably West Marine # 11140050
              they just bolt on.
              Magnesium is what is used to protect underground pipelines,(water, oil, natural gas etc)and storage tanks that are made of steel. Zinc and aluminum are used to protect other types of metal.
              The process works like a battery/ electroplating so a good metal to metal contact is needed and the metals have to be different. An aluminum anode will not protect an aluminum engine since both will corrode at the same rate and won't generate the electrical current needed to stop the oxidation, rusting.

              --- In mirageownersclub@yahoogroups.com, "txalfanut" <peter.van.kooij@...> wrote:
              >
              >
              > that's a good idea to add an anode....so you basically mount it on the keel somewhere, right? I looked online, and I see many different types. I guess any regular zinc anode would work? I looked on this site but could not find what others use. What did you use?
              > thanks, Peter
              >
              > --- In mirageownersclub@yahoogroups.com, "Mark " <musmus@> wrote:
              > >
              > > The clunking is due to a worn/corroded keel around the keel pin ideally there should be no play. From looking at this group's postings and pictures I'd say that this is a very common problem with the 5.5.
              > > Although I know it's not the ideal solution I used 2 pieces or 3/8 plywood painted with fiberglass resin as shims they have been in place for about 5 years, using galvanized tie wire to hold them for now it's working.
              > > Next winter I'll drop the keel and either install a bigger pin or a bushing to fill in the gap, as a lot of members have already done.
              > > For those of you who have (or have not)fixed their keel problems I cannot stress enough the importance of putting an anode on it if it'll stay in the water for more than a few days.
              > >
              > > google "cathodic protection"
              > >
              > > it's a lot cheaper than trying to replace a keel.
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > > --- In mirageownersclub@yahoogroups.com, "Captain Paul" <jensen_53@> wrote:
              > > >
              > > > Paul,
              > > > I did the same thing using "Ultra UHMW" from McMaster Carr. I posted pictures a couple years ago in my photo folder "jensen_53". I got tired of the klunking each time I'd tack. Others have had success with carpet and other materials.
              > > > Paul Jensen
              > > > "Discovery"
              > > >
              > > > --- In mirageownersclub@yahoogroups.com, "paul" <gleninst@> wrote:
              > > > >
              > > > > For the life of me I do not understand why there is a 3/8" clearance between keel board and inside of trunk. The design makes no sense whatsoever. I have placed (2) 3/16" shims, one on each side of the keel made from plastic cutting boards from my spouses kitchen. I drilled and tapped the keel and used brass flathead machine screws to mount the shims. I'll get some photos up.
              > > > >
              > > >
              > >
              >
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