Re: George's Shop
For smooth flat finishes on Asian machines, I have had good results
with 2 1/2" and 3" diameter shell mills sold by Enco.
For removing light machining marks, I use 3" and 4" diameter 3M
Roloc scotchbrite disks.
At 1,500 RPM, a red Roloc disk followed by a blue Roloc disk will
give beautiful results with kerosene and aluminum/brass or cutting
oil and steels.
--- In firstname.lastname@example.org, "Phil Teague" <philteague@y...>
> On the subject of surface finish I was curious about how good ofmodel). I
> surface finish I could get with my HF $799 mill/drill (33686
> have included some links to photos I took of my efforts.CRS. I
> Unfortunately, it is difficult for me to capture the surface finish
> the way I would like.
> In the first photo I am using a 5/8" roughing end mill to make an
> initial cut that is 3/8" deep and 1/4" wide in a piece of 1018
> am turning at 400 rpm using power feed (although I did not measurethe
> speed of the feed). I used some Klearcut lard/mineral oil appliedwith
> a brush.http://img43.photobucket.com/albums/v132/philteague/Initial_rough_cut
> The end mill I am using is the most expensive end mill I own(except
> the indexable one I use later). It cost $8.99 from Enco. Everyoneare
> should have one. It really cuts well. You will notice that there
> are faint marks on the vertical cut face resulting from the endmill.
> The surface is actually pretty smooth.http://img43.photobucket.com/albums/v132/philteague/2nd_cut_reg_end_m
> The second photo is not as clear, but is after taking a cut using a
> 5/8" M2AL plain end mill ($3.00 from JTS). I took off .010" on the
> vertical and horizontal faces also using the Klearcut oil.
> This smoothed out the vertical face but there are faint ripples onthe
> vertical face you can see if you hold it up to the light. It is,400
> however, smooth to the touch.
> So, I made one last climb mill cut taking off about .004" on the
> vertical face only. This was using the same end mill still using
> rpm as the speed.http://img43.photobucket.com/albums/v132/philteague/Final_climb_mill_
> The made most of the ripple effect of the last cut go away. You canThe
> still see a very faint ripple effect if you hold it to the light.
> photos do not convey this very well.could
> So, I decided to use the 1 3/8" indexable end mill to see if I
> improve any at all on the above cut. The end mill uses two TPGof
> tungsten carbide coated inserts (~$12 from JTS I mention the price
> the tools so you can see that I don't have anything exotic in theway
> of cutting tools).http://img43.photobucket.com/albums/v132/philteague/Indexable_end_mil
> This was done taking off about .005" on the vertical face and aboutever
> the same on the horizontal face using climb milling. I have not
> using this end mill to do side milling. It actually seemed to workOK.
> It made some slight bit of difference in the finish of the verticalsurface
> face. The horizontal face has a cross hatch pattern but is smooth.
> The final two photos are not real sharp show sort of what the
> is like after using the indexable end mill.wrote:
> I wish I had a Bridgeport or even another mill/drill to compare
> results with. I have found that I can generally get satisfactory
> results with my mill, although I am sure it could be improved upon.
> Phil Teague
> --- In email@example.com, "billbryden" <billbryden@y...>
> > I know what you mean about the mill pattern in the work. I've
> > replaced belts with some modest improvement. Folks on the
> > lathe groups have noted a large influence of motor vibrationshowing
> > up as surface patterns in the work with those machines. Whenthey
> > mounted the motor on isolation pads, they got a significantsome
> > improvement in surface finish. I've been thinking of getting
> > Lord mounts and putting these between the motor and the mountingplate
> > it bolts to. Has anyone attempted something like this and noteda
> > benefit with a mill-drill? Thanks.
> > Bill