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[mill_drill] tooling and Servo motors, was Re: Do Not Use Collets on End Mills?

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  • j.c.gerber@tbwil.ch
    Hi Alan, I do not know the torque of that little motor and I have not measured it. The only thing I can say is in case of inadvertance from my part, the
    Message 1 of 6 , Sep 30 12:41 PM
      Hi Alan,
       
      I do not know the torque of that little motor and I have not measured it. The only thing I can say is in case of "inadvertance" from my part, the mill/drill spindle stops before the motor!! It has really a high torque indeed.
       
      I fixed it with a steel 1" round bar stepped down to 3/8" to fit the max. Ø of the jacob drill chuck. The 1" side is bored to let the carriage spindle plug in it and fixed them together with a spring pin or whatever you call it.
      The motor is fixed with 2 aluminum plates bored to its diameter. You will find 2 executions on my website, one on the smaller milling machine I have, the other on the spindle of the copying device I made for my wood lathe. The very old RF31 which I have is fitted the same way. The only thing, with a 12VDC motor, you need at least a 15-20A DC supply to support the starting torque. When working, the average duty rate is 5-8A. I guess it is no problem to steel a PSU from your ham shack.
       
       
       
      73
      Jean-Claude, Switzerland
       
      ----- Original Message -----
      Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2001 8:13 PM
      Subject: Re: [mill_drill] tooling and Servo motors, was Re: Do Not Use Collets on End Mills?

      Hi Jean-Claude,

      Good idea!  I'd heard of it.  Couldn't get your link to work, even after
      adding the "http://". 

      Any idea how much torque oz/in you can get from the battery drill?  As a
      logical step getting to CNC on the RF-31, I want to use motor mounts
      that will support either BIG steppers, or the Minerta servos I just
      "discovered" I had.  I'll look into the drill, how did you mount it?

      Alan  KM6VV


      >Alan,
      >
      >Until your CNC project is taking place, use a battery drilling machine motor >unit to take care of your wrist!!!
      >See my website: www.homestead/turnandmill. I described how I did it.
      >It is cheap an effective. You do not need to make a casing as I made.
      >
      >73 Jean-Claude, Switzerland


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    • john@sipinc.net
      Hi Alan, Did you say you MILLED a flat on HSS? Ouch! ... do ... supplied ... rotary ... oz/in ... see ... although ... for ... the ... setscrew. ... simple
      Message 2 of 6 , Oct 1, 2001
        Hi Alan,

        Did you say you 'MILLED' a flat on HSS? Ouch!

        --- In mill_drill@y..., Alan Marconett KM6VV <KM6VV@a...> wrote:
        > Hi John,
        >
        > OK, just a milled flat. Wonder where it got that name. I've been
        > hearing that KURT style vices were the ones to get. The sherline
        > flycutter and boring head are a little small on the RF-31, but will
        do
        > for a while until I can get bigger ones. I haven't tried the
        supplied
        > shell mill, so it's OK?
        >
        > I have a rotary table for the sherline, but was eyeing the large
        rotary
        > tables for the RF-31. I don't have a tailstock for it yet.
        >
        > The power drive would be nice, I can really appreciate one, after
        > cranking 'X' back and forth a few times! I have a pair of old 300
        oz/in
        > NEMA 42 SloSyn motors that I'm planning to "hang on" the mill, and
        see
        > how that goes. Might be ok for a while for a "power drive",
        although
        > ultimately, I want ball screws and probably servos.
        >
        > I also have a dozen or so MinertiaMotor T06M-Qu12 21v, 1300 rpm, 61
        > oz/in servo motors, the ones used in daisy wheel printers. They are
        > 3.25" dia, by 3.25" long. The ones from the printers have an analog
        > shaft encoder, but not my new ones. I'd have to figure out a mount
        for
        > them, and the biggest problem would be to get the cable pulley off
        the
        > motor shaft (some kind of straight knurls), and a proper pulley
        > installed. I think they will make good servos.
        >
        > Thanks for the comments.
        >
        > Alan KM6VV
        >
        >
        > john@s... wrote:
        > >
        > > Hi Alan,
        > >
        > > A 'Weldon' shank is simply a shank with a milled flat for a
        setscrew.
        > >
        > > You might want to check the chuck for runout, this can make a
        simple
        > > hole a simple hell.
        > >
        > > Your projects are like mine, steam engines from bar stock. I guess
        > > I'm lucky to have a retailer that specialises in very small orders
        > > within two miles. As far as other tooling, I assume you have a
        KURT
        > > style vise. I know the one that Sherline sells is very good, but a
        > > little small for an RF31. I also assume you already have
        > > counterbores, drills, mills (2 and 4 or more flutes), slitting
        saws
        > > and a micrometer boring head. I know you have a flycutter, and
        your
        > > RF31 should have shipped with a facing mill (giant 4 or 6 tooth
        shell
        > > mill). The facing shell mill is a great thing. It is better than a
        > > flycutter because it can really take a big bite, gives a very nice
        > > finish and covers a lot of ground quickly, plus it is carbide so
        it
        > > can really take the heat. For the future (if you don't already
        have
        > > these) is Horizontal/Veritcal rotary table with dividing plates
        and
        > > tailstock. With this you can a lot, even gash gears (if you have
        the
        > > cutters). You could add a SUDS system (coolant) if you plan to
        really
        > > chew up a lot of hard stuff, a DRO (to make life easier), a power
        > > feed (to get nicer finishes) etc. I realize the last few items are
        > > not tooling but...
        > >
        > > Regards, John
        > >
        > > --- In mill_drill@y..., Alan Marconett KM6VV <KM6VV@a...> wrote:
        > > > Hi John,
        > > >
        > > > I'll watch for the more complete holder set. When I ordered
        the two
        > > > sizes I bought, The sets weren't that complete.
        > > >
        > > > What is a "Weldon shank"? My small end mills and other stuff is
        > > just
        > > > simple 1/4" (or appropriate) steel shafts.
        > > >
        > > > I haven't done much with the chuck. OK for simple drilling?
        > > otherwise,
        > > > I may just relegate it to drill press duty.
        > > >
        > > > My present projects are a small vertical "stock built" steam
        engine,
        > > > motor mounts for a small PCB router, motor mounts for the RF-31!
        > > Mostly
        > > > small items, that are a little too big for my Sherline mill.
        > > Getting
        > > > stock to work on is still a challenge!
        > > >
        > > > Thanks for the comments,
        > > >
        > > > Best regards,
        > > >
        > > > Alan KM6VV
      • Alan Marconett KM6VV
        Hi John, Ouch? I didn t mill the flat. Saw weldon in a catalog, I learn something every day! Alan KM6VV
        Message 3 of 6 , Oct 1, 2001
          Hi John,

          Ouch? I didn't mill the flat. Saw "weldon" in a catalog, I learn
          something every day!

          Alan KM6VV

          john@... wrote:
          >
          > Hi Alan,
          >
          > Did you say you 'MILLED' a flat on HSS? Ouch!
          >
          > --- In mill_drill@y..., Alan Marconett KM6VV <KM6VV@a...> wrote:
          > > Hi John,
          > >
          > > OK, just a milled flat. Wonder where it got that name. I've been
          > > hearing that KURT style vices were the ones to get. The sherline
          > > flycutter and boring head are a little small on the RF-31, but will
          > > do for a while until I can get bigger ones. I haven't tried the supplied
          > > shell mill, so it's OK?
          > >
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