[mill_drill] tooling and Servo motors, was Re: Do Not Use Collets on End Mills?
- Hi Alan,I do not know the torque of that little motor and I have not measured it. The only thing I can say is in case of "inadvertance" from my part, the mill/drill spindle stops before the motor!! It has really a high torque indeed.I fixed it with a steel 1" round bar stepped down to 3/8" to fit the max. Ø of the jacob drill chuck. The 1" side is bored to let the carriage spindle plug in it and fixed them together with a spring pin or whatever you call it.The motor is fixed with 2 aluminum plates bored to its diameter. You will find 2 executions on my website, one on the smaller milling machine I have, the other on the spindle of the copying device I made for my wood lathe. The very old RF31 which I have is fitted the same way. The only thing, with a 12VDC motor, you need at least a 15-20A DC supply to support the starting torque. When working, the average duty rate is 5-8A. I guess it is no problem to steel a PSU from your ham shack.73Jean-Claude, Switzerland----- Original Message -----From: Alan Marconett KM6VVSent: Sunday, September 30, 2001 8:13 PMSubject: Re: [mill_drill] tooling and Servo motors, was Re: Do Not Use Collets on End Mills?Hi Jean-Claude,
Good idea! I'd heard of it. Couldn't get your link to work, even after
adding the "http://".
Any idea how much torque oz/in you can get from the battery drill? As a
logical step getting to CNC on the RF-31, I want to use motor mounts
that will support either BIG steppers, or the Minerta servos I just
"discovered" I had. I'll look into the drill, how did you mount it?
>Until your CNC project is taking place, use a battery drilling machine motor >unit to take care of your wrist!!!
>See my website: www.homestead/turnandmill. I described how I did it.
>It is cheap an effective. You do not need to make a casing as I made.
>73 Jean-Claude, Switzerland
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- Hi Alan,
Did you say you 'MILLED' a flat on HSS? Ouch!
--- In mill_drill@y..., Alan Marconett KM6VV <KM6VV@a...> wrote:
> Hi John,
> OK, just a milled flat. Wonder where it got that name. I've been
> hearing that KURT style vices were the ones to get. The sherline
> flycutter and boring head are a little small on the RF-31, but will
> for a while until I can get bigger ones. I haven't tried the
> shell mill, so it's OK?
> I have a rotary table for the sherline, but was eyeing the large
> tables for the RF-31. I don't have a tailstock for it yet.
> The power drive would be nice, I can really appreciate one, after
> cranking 'X' back and forth a few times! I have a pair of old 300
> NEMA 42 SloSyn motors that I'm planning to "hang on" the mill, and
> how that goes. Might be ok for a while for a "power drive",
> ultimately, I want ball screws and probably servos.
> I also have a dozen or so MinertiaMotor T06M-Qu12 21v, 1300 rpm, 61
> oz/in servo motors, the ones used in daisy wheel printers. They are
> 3.25" dia, by 3.25" long. The ones from the printers have an analog
> shaft encoder, but not my new ones. I'd have to figure out a mount
> them, and the biggest problem would be to get the cable pulley off
> motor shaft (some kind of straight knurls), and a proper pulley
> installed. I think they will make good servos.
> Thanks for the comments.
> Alan KM6VV
> john@s... wrote:
> > Hi Alan,
> > A 'Weldon' shank is simply a shank with a milled flat for a
> > You might want to check the chuck for runout, this can make a
> > hole a simple hell.
> > Your projects are like mine, steam engines from bar stock. I guess
> > I'm lucky to have a retailer that specialises in very small orders
> > within two miles. As far as other tooling, I assume you have a
> > style vise. I know the one that Sherline sells is very good, but a
> > little small for an RF31. I also assume you already have
> > counterbores, drills, mills (2 and 4 or more flutes), slitting
> > and a micrometer boring head. I know you have a flycutter, and
> > RF31 should have shipped with a facing mill (giant 4 or 6 tooth
> > mill). The facing shell mill is a great thing. It is better than a
> > flycutter because it can really take a big bite, gives a very nice
> > finish and covers a lot of ground quickly, plus it is carbide so
> > can really take the heat. For the future (if you don't already
> > these) is Horizontal/Veritcal rotary table with dividing plates
> > tailstock. With this you can a lot, even gash gears (if you have
> > cutters). You could add a SUDS system (coolant) if you plan to
> > chew up a lot of hard stuff, a DRO (to make life easier), a power
> > feed (to get nicer finishes) etc. I realize the last few items are
> > not tooling but...
> > Regards, John
> > --- In mill_drill@y..., Alan Marconett KM6VV <KM6VV@a...> wrote:
> > > Hi John,
> > >
> > > I'll watch for the more complete holder set. When I ordered
> > > sizes I bought, The sets weren't that complete.
> > >
> > > What is a "Weldon shank"? My small end mills and other stuff is
> > just
> > > simple 1/4" (or appropriate) steel shafts.
> > >
> > > I haven't done much with the chuck. OK for simple drilling?
> > otherwise,
> > > I may just relegate it to drill press duty.
> > >
> > > My present projects are a small vertical "stock built" steam
> > > motor mounts for a small PCB router, motor mounts for the RF-31!
> > Mostly
> > > small items, that are a little too big for my Sherline mill.
> > Getting
> > > stock to work on is still a challenge!
> > >
> > > Thanks for the comments,
> > >
> > > Best regards,
> > >
> > > Alan KM6VV
- Hi John,
Ouch? I didn't mill the flat. Saw "weldon" in a catalog, I learn
something every day!
> Hi Alan,
> Did you say you 'MILLED' a flat on HSS? Ouch!
> --- In mill_drill@y..., Alan Marconett KM6VV <KM6VV@a...> wrote:
> > Hi John,
> > OK, just a milled flat. Wonder where it got that name. I've been
> > hearing that KURT style vices were the ones to get. The sherline
> > flycutter and boring head are a little small on the RF-31, but will
> > do for a while until I can get bigger ones. I haven't tried the supplied
> > shell mill, so it's OK?