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Re: Disassembling the spindle on RF-31

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  • Phil Teague
    Refer to my message # 6903 and some earlier posts on this subject (use the search feature for messages on bearings , etc). How old is the machine you will be
    Message 1 of 6 , Nov 4, 2003
      Refer to my message # 6903 and some earlier posts on this subject (use
      the search feature for messages on "bearings", etc).

      How old is the machine you will be taking apart?

      Phil Teague


      --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "mdarmistead"
      <matthew.d.armistead@u...> wrote:
      > I need some words of advice on disassembling the spindle mechanism on
      > a RF-31. The manual that came with it shows only an exploded drawing
      > of the head. What's the best way to tear it down so I can lubricate or
      > replace the bearings?
      >
      > Thanks,
      > Matt
    • Derek
      OK - great stuff - and the earlier reference - I ll keep them both on file - but is it really necessary to contemplate doing this to relubricate the bearings
      Message 2 of 6 , Nov 4, 2003
        OK - great stuff - and the earlier reference - I'll keep
        them both on file - but is it really necessary to
        contemplate doing this to relubricate the bearings at
        intervals?

        I assume the bearings are intended to be lubricated "for
        life" which to me means at least a decade of normal use.

        Derek

        --- Matt wrote:
        Before starting, you will need to locate a few tools.

        1. Hex wrench that fits the downfeed on the right hand
        side. 5mm maybe?
        2. Hex wrench that fits the return spring on the left hand
        side.
        3. Needlenose pliers to pull out the clip on the depth
        stop.

        To start, loosen the head and rotate it to the side of the
        machine. Remove any tooling from the spindle.

        With the spindle fully retracted, use the quill lock to
        lock the quill into place.

        Slowly loosen the allen bolt on the spring retractor. As
        it loosens, you'll be able to pull it away from the head
        and let it unwind slowly. After it's detensioned, you can
        remove the bolt completely, and unclip the spring from the
        small screw fixing it to the shaft.

        Remove the small screw in the shaft.

        With the quill still locked, remove the two hex bolts
        holding the downfeed to the right side of the head. You
        should be able to pull this assembly straight away from the
        head.

        The quill lock is now holding the spindle in place- with
        the depth stop as a safety backup.

        You can put your hand under the spindle, and unlock the
        quill. When it unlocks, you need to be prepared for about
        30 pounds of Taiwan's finest metal.

        Alternately, you can run the depth stop up, unlock the
        spindle, and unscrew it to lower it.

        You will need to remove the small circlip keeping the
        aluminum stop from coming off the threads. Once that is
        gone, continune supporting the quill and finish unthreading
        the stop.

        The entire works should come out the bottom now.


        Re-installation is reverse.

        Make sure the quill lock isn't interfering with reassembly.
        I like to get it stuck up in there, and spin the depth
        stop bolt a few times to catch the stop block and use that
        to hold it until I can get the quill lock jimmy'ed back
        into place.

        The quill needs to be in the full up position in order to
        set the spring tension on the retractor. You can install
        the bolt on the retractor about half way, which should
        allow you to spin the outer housing while keeping the whole
        works from exploding off. When you hit a point where it's
        "about
        right", tighten that bolt and try it out.
      • mertbaker
        FWIW, on a different machine, my Uni DB200 spindle is still running on its original factory grease & bearings, still runs true & quiet, & it s been over 45
        Message 3 of 6 , Nov 4, 2003
          FWIW, on a different machine, my Uni DB200 spindle is still running on its
          original factory grease & bearings, still runs true & quiet, & it's been
          over 45 years.
          Mert

          MertBaker@...
          ----- Original Message -----
          From: "Derek" <derek@...>
          To: <mill_drill@yahoogroups.com>
          Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2003 9:17 AM
          Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Lubrication and Disassembling the spindle on RF-31


          > OK - great stuff - and the earlier reference - I'll keep
          > them both on file - but is it really necessary to
          > contemplate doing this to relubricate the bearings at
          > intervals?
          >
          > I assume the bearings are intended to be lubricated "for
          > life" which to me means at least a decade of normal use.
          >
          > Derek
          >
          > --- Matt wrote:
          > Before starting, you will need to locate a few tools.
          >
          > 1. Hex wrench that fits the downfeed on the right hand
          > side. 5mm maybe?
          > 2. Hex wrench that fits the return spring on the left hand
          > side.
          > 3. Needlenose pliers to pull out the clip on the depth
          > stop.
          >
          > To start, loosen the head and rotate it to the side of the
          > machine. Remove any tooling from the spindle.
          >
          > With the spindle fully retracted, use the quill lock to
          > lock the quill into place.
          >
          > Slowly loosen the allen bolt on the spring retractor. As
          > it loosens, you'll be able to pull it away from the head
          > and let it unwind slowly. After it's detensioned, you can
          > remove the bolt completely, and unclip the spring from the
          > small screw fixing it to the shaft.
          >
          > Remove the small screw in the shaft.
          >
          > With the quill still locked, remove the two hex bolts
          > holding the downfeed to the right side of the head. You
          > should be able to pull this assembly straight away from the
          > head.
          >
          > The quill lock is now holding the spindle in place- with
          > the depth stop as a safety backup.
          >
          > You can put your hand under the spindle, and unlock the
          > quill. When it unlocks, you need to be prepared for about
          > 30 pounds of Taiwan's finest metal.
          >
          > Alternately, you can run the depth stop up, unlock the
          > spindle, and unscrew it to lower it.
          >
          > You will need to remove the small circlip keeping the
          > aluminum stop from coming off the threads. Once that is
          > gone, continune supporting the quill and finish unthreading
          > the stop.
          >
          > The entire works should come out the bottom now.
          >
          >
          > Re-installation is reverse.
          >
          > Make sure the quill lock isn't interfering with reassembly.
          > I like to get it stuck up in there, and spin the depth
          > stop bolt a few times to catch the stop block and use that
          > to hold it until I can get the quill lock jimmy'ed back
          > into place.
          >
          > The quill needs to be in the full up position in order to
          > set the spring tension on the retractor. You can install
          > the bolt on the retractor about half way, which should
          > allow you to spin the outer housing while keeping the whole
          > works from exploding off. When you hit a point where it's
          > "about
          > right", tighten that bolt and try it out.
          >
          >
          >
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