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Re: [mill_drill] Disassembling the spindle on RF-31

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  • Steve Roberts
    Hi Matt, During your spindle/quill work did you figure out a way to replace the locating pin inside the spindle if you ever had to? Reason I ask is mine has
    Message 1 of 6 , Nov 4, 2003
      Hi Matt,
      During your spindle/quill work did you figure out a way to replace the
      locating pin inside the spindle if you ever had to? Reason I ask is mine has
      disintegrated in my GEM500G and assembly must be similar even though our
      machines are different. I see a small hexagon nut when peaking through quill
      aperture but impossible to reach.
      Steve Roberts~Professional Engineer
      Toronto
      ----- Original Message -----
      From: "Matt" <matt@...>
      To: <mill_drill@yahoogroups.com>
      Sent: Monday, November 03, 2003 11:31 AM
      Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Disassembling the spindle on RF-31


      > Before starting, you will need to locate a few tools.
      >
      > 1. Hex wrench that fits the downfeed on the right hand side. 5mm maybe?
      > 2. Hex wrench that fits the return spring on the left hand side.
      > 3. Needlenose pliers to pull out the clip on the depth stop.
      >
      > To start, loosen the head and rotate it to the side of the machine. Remove
      > any tooling from the spindle.
      >
      > With the spindle fully retracted, use the quill lock to lock the quill
      into
      > place.
      >
      > Slowly loosen the allen bolt on the spring retractor. As it loosens,
      you'll
      > be able to pull it away from the head and let it unwind slowly. After
      it's
      > detensioned, you can remove the bolt completely, and unclip the spring
      from
      > the small screw fixing it to the shaft.
      >
      > Remove the small screw in the shaft.
      >
      > With the quill still locked, remove the two hex bolts holding the downfeed
      > to the right side of the head. You should be able to pull this assembly
      > straight away from the head.
      >
      > The quill lock is now holding the spindle in place- with the depth stop as
      a
      > safety backup.
      >
      > You can put your hand under the spindle, and unlock the quill. When it
      > unlocks, you need to be prepared for about 30 pounds of Taiwan's finest
      metal.
      >
      > Alternately, you can run the depth stop up, unlock the spindle, and
      unscrew
      > it to lower it.
      >
      > You will need to remove the small circlip keeping the aluminum stop from
      > coming off the threads. Once that is gone, continune supporting the quill
      > and finish unthreading the stop.
      >
      > The entire works should come out the bottom now.
      >
      >
      > Re-installation is reverse.
      >
      > Make sure the quill lock isn't interfering with reassembly. I like to
      get
      > it stuck up in there, and spin the depth stop bolt a few times to catch
      the
      > stop block and use that to hold it until I can get the quill lock jimmy'ed
      > back into place.
      >
      > The quill needs to be in the full up position in order to set the spring
      > tension on the retractor. You can install the bolt on the retractor about
      > half way, which should allow you to spin the outer housing while keeping
      the
      > whole works from exploding off. When you hit a point where it's "about
      > right", tighten that bolt and try it out.
      >
      >
      > Hope that helps
      >
      > Matt
      >
      >
      >
      >
      > mdarmistead wrote:
      > > I need some words of advice on disassembling the spindle mechanism on
      > > a RF-31. The manual that came with it shows only an exploded drawing
      > > of the head. What's the best way to tear it down so I can lubricate or
      > > replace the bearings?
      > >
      > > Thanks,
      > > Matt
      >
      >
      >
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      >
      >
    • Phil Teague
      Refer to my message # 6903 and some earlier posts on this subject (use the search feature for messages on bearings , etc). How old is the machine you will be
      Message 2 of 6 , Nov 4, 2003
        Refer to my message # 6903 and some earlier posts on this subject (use
        the search feature for messages on "bearings", etc).

        How old is the machine you will be taking apart?

        Phil Teague


        --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "mdarmistead"
        <matthew.d.armistead@u...> wrote:
        > I need some words of advice on disassembling the spindle mechanism on
        > a RF-31. The manual that came with it shows only an exploded drawing
        > of the head. What's the best way to tear it down so I can lubricate or
        > replace the bearings?
        >
        > Thanks,
        > Matt
      • Derek
        OK - great stuff - and the earlier reference - I ll keep them both on file - but is it really necessary to contemplate doing this to relubricate the bearings
        Message 3 of 6 , Nov 4, 2003
          OK - great stuff - and the earlier reference - I'll keep
          them both on file - but is it really necessary to
          contemplate doing this to relubricate the bearings at
          intervals?

          I assume the bearings are intended to be lubricated "for
          life" which to me means at least a decade of normal use.

          Derek

          --- Matt wrote:
          Before starting, you will need to locate a few tools.

          1. Hex wrench that fits the downfeed on the right hand
          side. 5mm maybe?
          2. Hex wrench that fits the return spring on the left hand
          side.
          3. Needlenose pliers to pull out the clip on the depth
          stop.

          To start, loosen the head and rotate it to the side of the
          machine. Remove any tooling from the spindle.

          With the spindle fully retracted, use the quill lock to
          lock the quill into place.

          Slowly loosen the allen bolt on the spring retractor. As
          it loosens, you'll be able to pull it away from the head
          and let it unwind slowly. After it's detensioned, you can
          remove the bolt completely, and unclip the spring from the
          small screw fixing it to the shaft.

          Remove the small screw in the shaft.

          With the quill still locked, remove the two hex bolts
          holding the downfeed to the right side of the head. You
          should be able to pull this assembly straight away from the
          head.

          The quill lock is now holding the spindle in place- with
          the depth stop as a safety backup.

          You can put your hand under the spindle, and unlock the
          quill. When it unlocks, you need to be prepared for about
          30 pounds of Taiwan's finest metal.

          Alternately, you can run the depth stop up, unlock the
          spindle, and unscrew it to lower it.

          You will need to remove the small circlip keeping the
          aluminum stop from coming off the threads. Once that is
          gone, continune supporting the quill and finish unthreading
          the stop.

          The entire works should come out the bottom now.


          Re-installation is reverse.

          Make sure the quill lock isn't interfering with reassembly.
          I like to get it stuck up in there, and spin the depth
          stop bolt a few times to catch the stop block and use that
          to hold it until I can get the quill lock jimmy'ed back
          into place.

          The quill needs to be in the full up position in order to
          set the spring tension on the retractor. You can install
          the bolt on the retractor about half way, which should
          allow you to spin the outer housing while keeping the whole
          works from exploding off. When you hit a point where it's
          "about
          right", tighten that bolt and try it out.
        • mertbaker
          FWIW, on a different machine, my Uni DB200 spindle is still running on its original factory grease & bearings, still runs true & quiet, & it s been over 45
          Message 4 of 6 , Nov 4, 2003
            FWIW, on a different machine, my Uni DB200 spindle is still running on its
            original factory grease & bearings, still runs true & quiet, & it's been
            over 45 years.
            Mert

            MertBaker@...
            ----- Original Message -----
            From: "Derek" <derek@...>
            To: <mill_drill@yahoogroups.com>
            Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2003 9:17 AM
            Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Lubrication and Disassembling the spindle on RF-31


            > OK - great stuff - and the earlier reference - I'll keep
            > them both on file - but is it really necessary to
            > contemplate doing this to relubricate the bearings at
            > intervals?
            >
            > I assume the bearings are intended to be lubricated "for
            > life" which to me means at least a decade of normal use.
            >
            > Derek
            >
            > --- Matt wrote:
            > Before starting, you will need to locate a few tools.
            >
            > 1. Hex wrench that fits the downfeed on the right hand
            > side. 5mm maybe?
            > 2. Hex wrench that fits the return spring on the left hand
            > side.
            > 3. Needlenose pliers to pull out the clip on the depth
            > stop.
            >
            > To start, loosen the head and rotate it to the side of the
            > machine. Remove any tooling from the spindle.
            >
            > With the spindle fully retracted, use the quill lock to
            > lock the quill into place.
            >
            > Slowly loosen the allen bolt on the spring retractor. As
            > it loosens, you'll be able to pull it away from the head
            > and let it unwind slowly. After it's detensioned, you can
            > remove the bolt completely, and unclip the spring from the
            > small screw fixing it to the shaft.
            >
            > Remove the small screw in the shaft.
            >
            > With the quill still locked, remove the two hex bolts
            > holding the downfeed to the right side of the head. You
            > should be able to pull this assembly straight away from the
            > head.
            >
            > The quill lock is now holding the spindle in place- with
            > the depth stop as a safety backup.
            >
            > You can put your hand under the spindle, and unlock the
            > quill. When it unlocks, you need to be prepared for about
            > 30 pounds of Taiwan's finest metal.
            >
            > Alternately, you can run the depth stop up, unlock the
            > spindle, and unscrew it to lower it.
            >
            > You will need to remove the small circlip keeping the
            > aluminum stop from coming off the threads. Once that is
            > gone, continune supporting the quill and finish unthreading
            > the stop.
            >
            > The entire works should come out the bottom now.
            >
            >
            > Re-installation is reverse.
            >
            > Make sure the quill lock isn't interfering with reassembly.
            > I like to get it stuck up in there, and spin the depth
            > stop bolt a few times to catch the stop block and use that
            > to hold it until I can get the quill lock jimmy'ed back
            > into place.
            >
            > The quill needs to be in the full up position in order to
            > set the spring tension on the retractor. You can install
            > the bolt on the retractor about half way, which should
            > allow you to spin the outer housing while keeping the whole
            > works from exploding off. When you hit a point where it's
            > "about
            > right", tighten that bolt and try it out.
            >
            >
            >
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