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Re: bench construction (was new mill/drill and questions)

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  • jkmccoy@wcc.net
    ... of your ... and ... Ken, Most of the construction of the bench is pretty basic. The main frame is two 36x48 rectangles of 2 angle iron (one for the top,
    Message 1 of 8 , Jul 4 2:26 PM
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      --- In mill_drill@y..., "Ken" <av8or@c...> wrote:
      > Kelly,
      >
      > Is it possible for you to provide more details on the construction
      of your
      > bench. I am especially interested in the way you built the casters
      and
      > jacks on the corners.
      >
      > thanks,
      > Ken
      > av8or@c...
      > kring@m...
      > av8or_cfi@y...


      Ken,

      Most of the construction of the bench is pretty basic. The main frame
      is two 36x48 rectangles of 2" angle iron (one for the top, one about
      3" up from the bottom of the legs). The legs are on the outside at
      the corners and also 2" angle. There's an extra lenghtwise brace on
      each side, mainly to stabilize the top of the jacks. There are angled
      braces of 3/4" angle at several of the corners (visible in the pics).
      There are two 3/4" angle braces across the top, under the plywood.
      The top is two layers of 3/4" plywood laminated together and bolted
      into the frame. This leaves a lip of ~3/8" around the edge of the top
      so that things won't roll off and to collect coolant when I get a
      system added. The whole thing is painted with garage floor epoxy
      which is proving to be unbelievably durable.

      The jacks are really simple. Pieces of two sizes of heavy wall
      (~1/4") square tubing sized so that one slips inside the other. The
      bottom part of the jack (inside piece of tubing) has a caster welded
      to the bottom and a 1/2-13 nut welded to the top. The screws to
      operate the jack are made from 1/2-13 allthread. I welded a nut on
      the end, passed the screw through a piece of 1/4" plate cut to the
      size of the larger tubing, and welded another nut onto the screw on
      the other side of the plate. There are also washers between the plate
      and the nuts. That way the screw is free to turn, but can't move up
      and down. Then I welded those plates to the tops of the larger pieces
      of tubing so that the screw extends down into the tube. The smaller
      tubes were inserted in the larger and the screws threaded into the nut
      s on the tops. I greased the screws thoroughly before final assembly
      (after welding the jacks onto the table). They work remarkably well
      and lift the table with the mill and lathe on it easily.

      Hope this helps.

      Kelly
    • Mert Baker
      More info on that toolpost. I find others have made similar posts, but used 3/4 , and even 5/8 stock instead of 1 1/8 . I may be guilty of overkill here.
      Message 2 of 8 , Jul 6 10:46 AM
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        More info on that toolpost. I find others have made similar posts, but used
        3/4", and even 5/8" stock instead of 1 1/8". I may be guilty of overkill
        here.
        Mert
        "The more fundamental the truth, the more politically incorrect is the
        mention thereof."
        ----- Original Message -----
        From: <j.c.gerber@...>
        To: <mill_drill@yahoogroups.com>
        Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2001 5:59 AM
        Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Re: new mill/drill and questions


        Hi Mert,

        Here pix request for my pleasure to look at and eventually copy
        (j.c.gerber@...)

        Jean-Claude, Switzerland
        www.homestead.com/turnandmill

        Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Re: new mill/drill and questions


        With a limited budget, before I'd shell out any money for aan
        adjustable/QC
        tool post, I'd make one. Simple. 1.25" round post, 2"sq x 1.125" block
        with 3/8" slot for toolbit, D&T for holding screws, bored to fit post,
        (just), with a slit & pinch bolt to hold it in place. Made 2, one for 7x,
        the other for Unimat. Pix on request.
        Mert
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