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Re: [mill_drill]Drawbar

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  • Barry Nesheim
    yes,there was an arcticle by Roland Friestad on such a bar that he came up with..he detailed it in the arcticle...In issue November/december 2002 Barry ...
    Message 1 of 13 , Jan 1, 2003
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      yes,there was an arcticle by Roland Friestad on such a bar that he came up with..he detailed it in the arcticle...In issue November/december 2002
      Barry
       
      ----- Original Message -----
      From: Owen Lloyd
      Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2002 4:47 PM
      To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
      Subject: Re: [mill_drill]Drawbar
       
      Speaking of draw bars n such.
      I seem to remember reading an article either in Home Shop Machinist or on line [some where ........] about a simple lever lock draw bar. Jogging anyone's memory? It was real simple. You hand tighten the draw bar and then flip the top inch or so inches over 90 deg. to cam lock the bar down and tight.
      Anyone?
      Owen
       
      ----- Original Message -----
      Subject: Re: [mill_drill]Drawbar: was jBurrs on stuff

      I made a new end for my drawbar that shortens it about 1/2", extends it up about 1", and makes it take a standard 3/4" socket so I could use a cool drawbar wrench with a socket on one side and a brass hammer on the other.  The threads on the stock drawbar were very good, appearing to be rolled.  I'll post photos soon.  Off to get some New Years Cheer (mostly Caymus), Jerry


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    • accuratemike
      I broke the nut off of my drawbar tonight. (RF45). What is the easy/cheap fix. Threads are wiped out, nut is busted off. I had to weld a 1/2 nut to the end of
      Message 2 of 13 , Apr 17, 2004
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        I broke the nut off of my drawbar tonight. (RF45). What is the
        easy/cheap fix. Threads are wiped out, nut is busted off. I had to
        weld a 1/2" nut to the end of it to pull it out. Collet looks "OK",
        I'm going to chase the threads anyhow. Thanks, MIKE
      • Jerry Stephenson
        KBC tools has drawbars for a bridgeport on sale for $10. I d measure and see if one of those would work. I m not sure why you re describing damage to both
        Message 3 of 13 , Apr 17, 2004
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          KBC tools has drawbars for a bridgeport on sale for $10.  I'd measure and see if one of those would work.
           
          I'm not sure why you're describing damage to both ends.  When my drawbar hex broke off I made a new nut. There is a photo of it in the "Jer's HF2119" folder.  It is just pinned to the top of the drawbar.  So how did the threads down below get damaged?
           
          On second thought mine didn't break off. I wanted to make a new nut that was 3/4" rather than metric so I can use the cute little combo wrench/hammer tool made for the bridgeport.  but when I took the pin out it was partially sheared so I figure it would have sheared eventually anyhow.
           
          Cheers,
          Jerry
          ----- Original Message -----
          Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2004 7:59 PM
          Subject: [mill_drill] Drawbar

          I broke the nut off of my drawbar tonight. (RF45). What is the
          easy/cheap fix. Threads are wiped out, nut is busted off. I had to
          weld a 1/2" nut to the end of it to pull it out. Collet looks "OK",
          I'm going to chase the threads anyhow. Thanks, MIKE

        • Ned Seith
          Greetings, As the drawbar threads that ingage the collet are 7/16-20, a make shift draw bar can be fabricated with an appropriate length of 7/16- 20 threaded
          Message 4 of 13 , Apr 17, 2004
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            Greetings,

            As the drawbar threads that ingage the collet are 7/16-20, a "make
            shift" draw bar can be fabricated with an appropriate length of 7/16-
            20 threaded rod and two 7/16-20 hex nuts available from a hardware
            store.
            Cut the threaded rod to the proper length.
            Place the two hex nuts at one end of the threaded rod and tighten
            the two hex nuts against each other to lock them in place.

            Ned

            --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "accuratemike" <mike@a...> wrote:
            > I broke the nut off of my drawbar tonight. (RF45). What is the
            > easy/cheap fix. Threads are wiped out, nut is busted off. I had to
            > weld a 1/2" nut to the end of it to pull it out. Collet looks "OK",
            > I'm going to chase the threads anyhow. Thanks, MIKE
          • ppump11578@aol.com
            Are you sure your nut was welded on in the first place? Mine was simply forced over the drawbar shaft. What I did was to clean out the hole and then slide
            Message 5 of 13 , Apr 18, 2004
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              Are you sure your nut was  welded on in the   first place? Mine was simply forced over the drawbar shaft. What I did was to clean out the hole and then slide it back on with a close hole  ready drilled and then drill the drawbar to suit. It has not moved in the last four years.
              regards
              pp
            • Bill Alm
              ... The drawbar on my ENCO version RF45 was too short when I got it. It wouldn t reach the collets so I had to turn down the nut on the end about 3/8th in. on
              Message 6 of 13 , Apr 18, 2004
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                --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "accuratemike" <mike@a...> wrote:
                > I broke the nut off of my drawbar tonight. (RF45). What is the
                > easy/cheap fix. Threads are wiped out, nut is busted off. I had to
                > weld a 1/2" nut to the end of it to pull it out. Collet looks "OK",
                > I'm going to chase the threads anyhow. Thanks, MIKE

                The drawbar on my ENCO version RF45 was too short when I got it. It
                wouldn't reach the collets so I had to turn down the nut on the end
                about 3/8th in. on the lathe. It's a good thing they made the nut on
                the end pretty long. Works fine now. Has anyone else encounter this?
                Bill.
              • accuratemike
                My nut wasn t originally welded on, it was pinned. I had to weld one on (in the machine) to pull the drawbar out. The threads were soft and have been getting
                Message 7 of 13 , Apr 18, 2004
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                  My nut wasn't originally welded on, it was pinned. I had to weld one
                  on (in the machine) to pull the drawbar out. The threads were soft and
                  have been getting worn out for a while. I suspect that when I tried to
                  pull up the .003" oversized tooling that I got from ENCO ( MHS endmill
                  holder set ), that I bunged them up pretty good. I'll pull the drawbar
                  out of one of the BP's at work and compare. If not adaptable, I'll go
                  the threaded rod path. I know McMaster-Carr sells some alloy threaded
                  rod. Hopefully it will be up to the task. If I go that route, I'll get
                  a 7/16-20 heavy/long nut, and tack it to the end of the rod. If
                  anything, my bar was too long. It used every bit of 1 3/4" of thread
                  to pull a collet tight. The last time it worked, it was bound up on
                  the end of the threads (and still not tight). I turned some more and
                  wound off the nut. Shorter bar, longer threads (or threaded rod)
                  should be better. My original nut had a small sleeve at it's base.
                  This contacted the spindle when the bar was tight. I found it in the
                  collet I had used last. When it broke off, The nut itself didn't
                  contact the spindle before the threads ran out. A few washers would
                  have prevented tearing it up, but I didn't know the piece had fallen
                  off. (I rarely pull the bar up, or all the way out). Thanks, MIKE

                  --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Bill Alm" <Harley243ba@a...> wrote:
                  > --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "accuratemike" <mike@a...> wrote:
                  > > I broke the nut off of my drawbar tonight. (RF45). What is the
                  > > easy/cheap fix. Threads are wiped out, nut is busted off. I had to
                  > > weld a 1/2" nut to the end of it to pull it out. Collet looks "OK",
                  > > I'm going to chase the threads anyhow. Thanks, MIKE
                  >
                  > The drawbar on my ENCO version RF45 was too short when I got it. It
                  > wouldn't reach the collets so I had to turn down the nut on the end
                  > about 3/8th in. on the lathe. It's a good thing they made the nut on
                  > the end pretty long. Works fine now. Has anyone else encounter this?
                  > Bill.
                • Jerry Stephenson
                  I keep remembering things as I read your posts. My drawbar was longer than I wanted it to be. You don t need over an inch of threads engaged and I got tired
                  Message 8 of 13 , Apr 18, 2004
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                    I keep remembering things as I read your posts.  My drawbar was longer than I wanted it to be.  You don't need over an inch of threads engaged and I got tired of 20 to 25 turns to tighten it up.  That was something else I fixed with my new capnut.  I made the nut flange sit lower on the drawbar so that I only had about 1/2" of threads engaged.  In general, 1 diameter of threads is plenty and conservative.  In theory, .6 diameter is all that is needed for full strength of a threaded joint but I would always go for a little over one diameter.
                    --Jerry
                    ----- Original Message -----
                    Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2004 7:16 AM
                    Subject: [mill_drill] Re: Drawbar

                    My nut wasn't originally welded on, it was pinned. I had to weld one
                    on (in the machine) to pull the drawbar out. The threads were soft and
                    have been getting worn out for a while. I suspect that when I tried to
                    pull up the .003" oversized tooling that I got from ENCO ( MHS endmill
                    holder set ), that I bunged them up pretty good. I'll pull the drawbar
                    out of one of the BP's at work and compare. If not adaptable, I'll go
                    the threaded rod path. I know McMaster-Carr sells some alloy threaded
                    rod. Hopefully it will be up to the task. If I go that route, I'll get
                    a 7/16-20 heavy/long nut, and tack it to the end of the rod. If
                    anything, my bar was too long. It used every bit of 1 3/4" of thread
                    to pull a collet tight. The last time it worked, it was bound up on
                    the end of the threads (and still not tight). I turned some more and
                    wound off the nut. Shorter bar, longer threads (or threaded rod)
                    should be better. My original nut had a small sleeve at it's base.
                    This contacted the spindle when the bar was tight. I found it in the
                    collet I had used last. When it broke off, The nut itself didn't
                    contact the spindle before the threads ran out. A few washers would
                    have prevented tearing it up, but I didn't know the piece had fallen
                    off. (I rarely pull the bar up, or all the way out). Thanks, MIKE

                    --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Bill Alm" <Harley243ba@a...> wrote:
                    > --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "accuratemike" <mike@a...> wrote:
                    > > I broke the nut off of my drawbar tonight. (RF45). What is the
                    > > easy/cheap fix. Threads are wiped out, nut is busted off. I had to
                    > > weld a 1/2" nut to the end of it to pull it out. Collet looks "OK",
                    > > I'm going to chase the threads anyhow. Thanks, MIKE
                    >
                    >  The drawbar on my ENCO version RF45 was too short when I got it. It
                    > wouldn't reach the collets so I had to turn down the nut on the end
                    > about 3/8th in. on the lathe. It's a good thing they made the nut on
                    > the end pretty long. Works fine now. Has anyone else encounter this? 
                    > Bill.

                  • auntiedodo
                    .Will it is the draw bar thing. I had this proplem. So what to do!! Get some bar stock and machine your self a new one. And machine a nut I did it on a sunday
                    Message 9 of 13 , Apr 18, 2004
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                      .Will it is the draw bar thing. I had this proplem. So what to do!!
                      Get some bar stock and machine your self a new one. And machine a
                      nut I did it on a sunday aftrnoon, and it workd better than the
                      enco one that was with my dill/mill Brett
                    • accuratemike
                      I bought a 3 length of alloy 7/16-20 threaded rod and two flanged nuts today. I m going to be able to make 2 drawbars from this. A little cut and weld and
                      Message 10 of 13 , Apr 19, 2004
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                        I bought a 3' length of alloy 7/16-20 threaded rod and two flanged
                        nuts today. I'm going to be able to make 2 drawbars from this. A
                        little cut and weld and I'll be back to making chips. Thanks, MIKE

                        --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "auntiedodo" <auntiedodo@y...> wrote:
                        > .Will it is the draw bar thing. I had this proplem. So what to do!!
                        > Get some bar stock and machine your self a new one. And machine a
                        > nut I did it on a sunday aftrnoon, and it workd better than the
                        > enco one that was with my dill/mill Brett
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