Re: Protecting an angle plate
- I had a big problem with rust due to condensation in my unheated garage shop. The best thing I have found are the "Boeshield" products (and they are made here in Michigan). They have a kit with the T-9 preventive and a rust remover that works well. I got mine from Sears but there are lots of places to purchase the produce and they have international distributors.
--- In firstname.lastname@example.org, Curt Wuollet <wideopen1@...> wrote:
> What you are seeing is a wax. WD40, LPS, and a number of others
> including Boeshield, are wax based.
> The wax is dissolved in some petroleum like mineral spirits, kerosene or
> a combination so it can be sprayed or brushed on and will penetrate to
> the metal. Once the vehicle evaporates you are left with a wax coating,
> that's the preservative. Various formulas give thicker or thinner
> coatings and different colors. The thickest coatings are used for auto
> rustproofing, etc where the coating won't be disturbed the thinner
> coatings have to be a harder wax to withstand handling. I have made
> something similar by dissolving paraffin wax in gasoline or naptha to
> keep tools and saw tables and the like from rusting in damp conditions.
> The formula that gives the most perfect coating and the wax that lasts
> the best will
> be the best preservative. There are lots of variations and some are
> better than others in certain situations. I think they all derive from
> cosmolene developed for the military. Alox is another brand with a lot
> of various formulations on the same theme.
> On 07/14/2013 06:09 PM, Ramdog wrote:
> > I'm going to have to retract my initial statement about the WD-40. I
> > have never had my tools home other than a couple of angle plates but
> > never had a problem with humidity and WD. I'm retired now, have my
> > tools at home, the humidity is up, and I just looked at my mill vise
> > and I have the brown stains that is talked about. It looks like the WD
> > separated some and rusted in between the areas of separation.
> > --- In email@example.com
> > <mailto:mill_drill%40yahoogroups.com>, "KURT" <kurt.laughlin@> wrote:
> > >
> > > --- "Malcolm" <mparkerlisberg@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I have just purchased a new 6" angle plate for my mill and I am
> > looking for suggestions on how to protect the plate ground surfaces
> > from rust and dings. I need something that will hold oil or grease to
> > cover the surfaces, but is quickly removed and replaced when I need to
> > use it.
> > > > I had thought of a felt covered angled wooden open box covered in
> > oil soaked felt. Any other suggestions welcome
> > > ------------
> > >
> > > There are several made-for-the-purpose preservatives available. I
> > suggest LPS 3. WD-40 and plain oils are not reliable preservatives,
> > although they have some of those effects.
> > >
> > > I have kept mine in its original cardboard shipping box, which is
> > roughly a triangular prism. If you can set it someplace and not let
> > things drop on it, smash into it, or knock it on to the floor. A
> > preserved part within that box ought to last many years. If you bounce
> > it off the table and onto the concrete when installing it, well, it's
> > not going to matter how much nice of a box it had been in.
> > >
> > > KL
> > >
> > > Please trim your replies.
> > >
- d.seiter@... wrote:
>If you make or buy a punch with a flat end, and just break the sharp
> What's the best way to remove small high spots from the mill table (from
> nicks, etc) without removing good metal? I looked through the archives
> last night and didn't find anything; maybe I gave up too soon.
corner, you can use it with a small hammer to gently ease some of the
metal back to where it came from. Then use a scraper until whatever you
have that is flat sits properly. This is a workshop expedient method
and isn't a substitute for other methods.
Kevin, NW England, UK