Re: [mill_drill] Re: Protecting an angle plate
- What you are seeing is a wax. WD40, LPS, and a number of others including Boeshield, are wax based.
The wax is dissolved in some petroleum like mineral spirits, kerosene or a combination so it can be sprayed or brushed on and will penetrate to the metal. Once the vehicle evaporates you are left with a wax coating, that's the preservative. Various formulas give thicker or thinner coatings and different colors. The thickest coatings are used for auto rustproofing, etc where the coating won't be disturbed the thinner coatings have to be a harder wax to withstand handling. I have made something similar by dissolving paraffin wax in gasoline or naptha to keep tools and saw tables and the like from rusting in damp conditions. The formula that gives the most perfect coating and the wax that lasts the best will
be the best preservative. There are lots of variations and some are better than others in certain situations. I think they all derive from cosmolene developed for the military. Alox is another brand with a lot of various formulations on the same theme.
On 07/14/2013 06:09 PM, Ramdog wrote:
I'm going to have to retract my initial statement about the WD-40. I have never had my tools home other than a couple of angle plates but never had a problem with humidity and WD. I'm retired now, have my tools at home, the humidity is up, and I just looked at my mill vise and I have the brown stains that is talked about. It looks like the WD separated some and rusted in between the areas of separation.
--- In firstname.lastname@example.org, "KURT" <kurt.laughlin@...> wrote:
> --- "Malcolm" <mparkerlisberg@> wrote:
> > I have just purchased a new 6" angle plate for my mill and I am looking for suggestions on how to protect the plate ground surfaces from rust and dings. I need something that will hold oil or grease to cover the surfaces, but is quickly removed and replaced when I need to use it.
> > I had thought of a felt covered angled wooden open box covered in oil soaked felt. Any other suggestions welcome
> There are several made-for-the-purpose preservatives available. I suggest LPS 3. WD-40 and plain oils are not reliable preservatives, although they have some of those effects.
> I have kept mine in its original cardboard shipping box, which is roughly a triangular prism. If you can set it someplace and not let things drop on it, smash into it, or knock it on to the floor. A preserved part within that box ought to last many years. If you bounce it off the table and onto the concrete when installing it, well, it's not going to matter how much nice of a box it had been in.
> Please trim your replies.
- d.seiter@... wrote:
>If you make or buy a punch with a flat end, and just break the sharp
> What's the best way to remove small high spots from the mill table (from
> nicks, etc) without removing good metal? I looked through the archives
> last night and didn't find anything; maybe I gave up too soon.
corner, you can use it with a small hammer to gently ease some of the
metal back to where it came from. Then use a scraper until whatever you
have that is flat sits properly. This is a workshop expedient method
and isn't a substitute for other methods.
Kevin, NW England, UK