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Re: [mill_drill] Re: Chucking reamers

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  • Guenther Paul
    K In my opinion all WD-40 id good for is to start a engine. Its bean marketed like crazy but no user will ever read the can. WD-40 is not a machining fluid and
    Message 1 of 30 , Apr 23, 2013
    • 0 Attachment
      K
      In my opinion all WD-40 id good for is to start a engine. Its bean marketed like crazy but no user will ever read the can. WD-40 is not a machining fluid and never will be
       
      GP



      From: Kevin Weimer <kweimer@...>
      To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
      Sent: Tue, April 23, 2013 9:15:35 AM
      Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Re: Chucking reamers

      One other thing I just thought of, how much are you trying to ream? You
      don't want your drill to be any smaller than one size less as the reamer
      with fractional drills. So if you are reaming a .4995 hole, you want your
      drill size to be no less than 31/64 or .484. And if the reamer is super
      long, cut the shank off down to the same length as your drills. For one, I
      like to keep my reamers in a drill case and nothing worse than having a few
      to long to shut the lid. Anyways, just wanted to toss that idea out there to
      eliminate some possibilities. One other thing too, swap out the WD-40 for
      some oil. I always used Vactra because that's what we had at the shop, but
      at home, any 10W-30 or similar will work. WD-40, although good stuff, just
      doesn't seem to work as well for reaming, or at least to me it doesn't. The
      same with tapping, I like a good thick oil so the chips will stick in the
      flute reliefs. That way you can back out the tap and bring the chips with
      you.

      You say that the aluminum is 6061, but what hardness is it? I wouldn't think
      that it would be 6061-0, but I have grabbed aluminum off of the shelf at
      work before that someone had used to silver solder some parts, then stuck it
      back on the shelf. It machined and drilled entirely different in the hot
      spot of the block.

      K

      -----Original Message-----
      From: William Abernathy
      Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 9:21 PM
      To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
      Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Re: Chucking reamers

      I'm confident it's the setup, not the tool. Tried it with a .500 reamer, got
      awful results, fixed things up a bit (lowered the speed, added WD-40 for
      lube --
      yes, it's 6061 aluminum), made sure everything was tight, and massaged out
      about
      .010 of slop, but it's still an arms-length exchange, with the head cranked
      high
      and a reamer waving around out in space (and yes, I drilled a pilot hole as
      well...)

      --W

      Ramdog wrote:
      > One other thing...if you have a .4995 reamer and are reaming at .511,
      > either
      > your reamer is really dull, the head in relationship to the table is out
      > of
      > tram, or you have a burr on the end of the reamer that is causing it to
      > ream
      > oversize. Are you using a lubricant on the hole when you are reaming?
      Also
      > what about the speeds. You could be running too fast causing it to chatter
      > somewhat. What kind of material are you working with
      >
      > --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Ramdog" <kweimer@...> wrote:
      >>
      >>
      >> Instead of ordering "straight flute chucking reamers", order "drill
      >> length
      >> chucking reamer". Problem solved. They're not hard to get, you're just
      >> ordering the wrong ones. As far as taking the drill and chuck out and
      >> using
      >> an ER32 collet to hold your reamer for accuracy, there really is no need
      >> to
      >> do that as the reamer will follow the drilled hole anyways. I've rebuilt
      >> many a die components and had to use a drill press swapping drills and
      >> reamers and never had one problem in all the years
      I have done it.
      >>
      >> --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, Bill <bill_1955@> wrote:
      >>>
      >>> Ah….OK….can't help you much with the reamers. I only use `em for holes
      >>> that I need a bit more accurate than just a drill.
      >>>
      >>> For bearings, bushings, etc, where I need to hold a tight tolerance, I
      >>> always bore.
      >>>
      >>>
      >>>
      >>> I have one of those cheapie brazed carbide boring bar sets from
      >>> Enco….the smallest ones will bore down to 5/16". I don't use `em much.
      >>> All require a regrind to get `em to cut to begin with.
      >>>
      >>> For smaller bores, I generally use HSS. Both my 2" boring heads take ½"
      >>> diameter tools, so I keep ½" diameter HSS rounds
      laying around, and
      >>> grind `em to suit the job.
      >>>
      >>> I have used an old drill bit or two, with a little creative grinding, to
      >>> get me out of a pinch. Be aware the shanks on HSS drill bits are not
      >>> hardened.
      >>>
      >>>
      >>>
      >>> Bill
      >>>
      >>>
      >>>
      >>>
      >>>
      >>>
      >>>
      >>> From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On
      >>> Behalf Of William Abernathy Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 10:09 AM To:
      >>> mill_drill@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re:
      [mill_drill] Chucking reamers
      >>>
      >>>
      >>>
      >>>
      >>>
      >>> Owing to the vertical-distance mambo we're all used to, I'm holding a
      >>> drill bit in a drill chuck, then pulling the chuck and using an ER32
      >>> collet to hold the reamer. As for why I don't bore it, it's a small hole
      >>> and I'll have to dig around to see if I have any boring bars that A) fit
      >>> my boring head and B) are smaller than a half-inch. I might end up going
      >>> that route.
      >>>
      >>> Mostly, I just wanted to know what I was giving up by whittling down the
      >>> tang. From the sound of things, not much.
      >>>
      >>> --W
      >>>
      >>> Arthur Marks wrote:
      >>>> I've asked the same question before. Feel free to shorten that looong
      >>>> shank - chop it, grind it,
      whatever, down to an appropriate length for
      >>>> your use. There are intentionally short reamers made for screw machine
      >>>> work, but they are not commonly available. They are more of a specialty
      >>>> item and priced accordingly. Might also try single-point boring your
      >>>> hole if you can do that. It'll be far more accurate than what you're
      >>>> achieving now! :) Are you holding that reamer in a collet or a drill
      >>>> chuck? -Arthur
      >>>
      >>> -- William Abernathy Berkeley, CA http://yourwritereditor.com
      >>>
      >>>
      >>>
      >>> _____
      >>>
      >>> No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version:
      >>> 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6249 - Release Date:
      04/16/13
      >>>
      >>
      >
      >
      >
      >
      > ------------------------------------
      >
      > Yahoo! Groups Links
      >
      >

      --
      William Abernathy
      Berkeley, CA
      http://yourwritereditor.com


      ------------------------------------

      Yahoo! Groups Links






      ------------------------------------

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    • Goran Hosinsky
      Would these recommendations also be valid when turning aluminum? Goran Canary Islands
      Message 2 of 30 , Apr 24, 2013
      • 0 Attachment
        Would these recommendations also be valid when turning aluminum?
        Goran
        Canary Islands

        On 2013-04-23 17:15, Kevin Weimer wrote:
        > One other thing I just thought of, how much are you trying to ream? You
        > don't want your drill to be any smaller than one size less as the reamer
        > with fractional drills. So if you are reaming a .4995 hole, you want your
        > drill size to be no less than 31/64 or .484. And if the reamer is super
        > long, cut the shank off down to the same length as your drills. For one, I
        > like to keep my reamers in a drill case and nothing worse than having a few
        > to long to shut the lid. Anyways, just wanted to toss that idea out there to
        > eliminate some possibilities. One other thing too, swap out the WD-40 for
        > some oil. I always used Vactra because that's what we had at the shop, but
        > at home, any 10W-30 or similar will work. WD-40, although good stuff, just
        > doesn't seem to work as well for reaming, or at least to me it doesn't. The
        > same with tapping, I like a good thick oil so the chips will stick in the
        > flute reliefs. That way you can back out the tap and bring the chips with
        > you.
        >
        > You say that the aluminum is 6061, but what hardness is it? I wouldn't think
        > that it would be 6061-0, but I have grabbed aluminum off of the shelf at
        > work before that someone had used to silver solder some parts, then stuck it
        > back on the shelf. It machined and drilled entirely different in the hot
        > spot of the block.
        >
        > K
        >
        > -----Original Message-----
        > From: William Abernathy
        > Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 9:21 PM
        > To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
        > Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Re: Chucking reamers
        >
        > I'm confident it's the setup, not the tool. Tried it with a .500 reamer, got
        > awful results, fixed things up a bit (lowered the speed, added WD-40 for
        > lube --
        > yes, it's 6061 aluminum), made sure everything was tight, and massaged out
        > about
        > .010 of slop, but it's still an arms-length exchange, with the head cranked
        > high
        > and a reamer waving around out in space (and yes, I drilled a pilot hole as
        > well...)
        >
        > --W
        >
        > Ramdog wrote:
        >> One other thing...if you have a .4995 reamer and are reaming at .511,
        >> either
        >> your reamer is really dull, the head in relationship to the table is out
        >> of
        >> tram, or you have a burr on the end of the reamer that is causing it to
        >> ream
        >> oversize. Are you using a lubricant on the hole when you are reaming? Also
        >> what about the speeds. You could be running too fast causing it to chatter
        >> somewhat. What kind of material are you working with
        >>
        >> --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Ramdog" <kweimer@...> wrote:
        >>>
        >>> Instead of ordering "straight flute chucking reamers", order "drill
        >>> length
        >>> chucking reamer". Problem solved. They're not hard to get, you're just
        >>> ordering the wrong ones. As far as taking the drill and chuck out and
        >>> using
        >>> an ER32 collet to hold your reamer for accuracy, there really is no need
        >>> to
        >>> do that as the reamer will follow the drilled hole anyways. I've rebuilt
        >>> many a die components and had to use a drill press swapping drills and
        >>> reamers and never had one problem in all the years I have done it.
        >>>
        >>> --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, Bill <bill_1955@> wrote:
        >>>> Ah….OK….can't help you much with the reamers. I only use `em for holes
        >>>> that I need a bit more accurate than just a drill.
        >>>>
        >>>> For bearings, bushings, etc, where I need to hold a tight tolerance, I
        >>>> always bore.
        >>>>
        >>>>
        >>>>
        >>>> I have one of those cheapie brazed carbide boring bar sets from
        >>>> Enco….the smallest ones will bore down to 5/16". I don't use `em much.
        >>>> All require a regrind to get `em to cut to begin with.
        >>>>
        >>>> For smaller bores, I generally use HSS. Both my 2" boring heads take ½"
        >>>> diameter tools, so I keep ½" diameter HSS rounds laying around, and
        >>>> grind `em to suit the job.
        >>>>
        >>>> I have used an old drill bit or two, with a little creative grinding, to
        >>>> get me out of a pinch. Be aware the shanks on HSS drill bits are not
        >>>> hardened.
        >>>>
        >>>>
        >>>>
        >>>> Bill
        >>>>
        >>>>
        >>>>
        >>>>
        >>>>
        >>>>
        >>>>
        >>>> From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On
        >>>> Behalf Of William Abernathy Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 10:09 AM To:
        >>>> mill_drill@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Chucking reamers
        >>>>
        >>>>
        >>>>
        >>>>
        >>>>
        >>>> Owing to the vertical-distance mambo we're all used to, I'm holding a
        >>>> drill bit in a drill chuck, then pulling the chuck and using an ER32
        >>>> collet to hold the reamer. As for why I don't bore it, it's a small hole
        >>>> and I'll have to dig around to see if I have any boring bars that A) fit
        >>>> my boring head and B) are smaller than a half-inch. I might end up going
        >>>> that route.
        >>>>
        >>>> Mostly, I just wanted to know what I was giving up by whittling down the
        >>>> tang. From the sound of things, not much.
        >>>>
        >>>> --W
        >>>>
        >>>> Arthur Marks wrote:
        >>>>> I've asked the same question before. Feel free to shorten that looong
        >>>>> shank - chop it, grind it, whatever, down to an appropriate length for
        >>>>> your use. There are intentionally short reamers made for screw machine
        >>>>> work, but they are not commonly available. They are more of a specialty
        >>>>> item and priced accordingly. Might also try single-point boring your
        >>>>> hole if you can do that. It'll be far more accurate than what you're
        >>>>> achieving now! :) Are you holding that reamer in a collet or a drill
        >>>>> chuck? -Arthur
        >>>> -- William Abernathy Berkeley, CA http://yourwritereditor.com
        >>>>
        >>>>
        >>>>
        >>>> _____
        >>>>
        >>>> No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version:
        >>>> 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6249 - Release Date: 04/16/13
        >>>>
        >>
        >>
        >>
        >> ------------------------------------
        >>
        >> Yahoo! Groups Links
        >>
        >>
      • Guenther Paul
        Yes the reaming process is the same for all metals GP ________________________________ From: Goran Hosinsky To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
        Message 3 of 30 , Apr 24, 2013
        • 0 Attachment
          Yes the reaming process is the same for all metals 
          GP



          From: Goran Hosinsky <hosinsky@...>
          To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
          Cc: hosinsky@...
          Sent: Wed, April 24, 2013 8:51:46 AMocess
          Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Re: Chucking reamers - cutting oil

          Would these  recommendations also be valid when turning aluminum?
          Goran
          Canary Islands

          On 2013-04-23 17:15, Kevin Weimer wrote:
          > One other thing I just thought of, how much are you trying to ream? You
          > don't want your drill to be any smaller than one size less as the reamer
          > with fractional drills. So if you are reaming a .4995 hole, you want your
          > drill size to be no less than 31/64 or .484. And if the reamer is super
          > long, cut the shank off down to the same length as your drills. For one, I
          > like to keep my reamers in a drill case and nothing worse than having a few
          > to long to shut the lid. Anyways, just wanted to toss that idea out there to
          > eliminate some possibilities. One other thing too, swap out the WD-40 for
          > some oil. I always used Vactra because that's what we had at the shop, but
          > at home, any 10W-30 or similar will work. WD-40, although good stuff, just
          > doesn't seem to work as well for reaming, or at least to me it doesn't. The
          > same with tapping, I like a good thick oil so the chips will stick in the
          > flute reliefs. That way you can back out the tap and bring the chips with
          > you.
          >
          > You say that the aluminum is 6061, but what hardness is it? I wouldn't think
          > that it would be 6061-0, but I have grabbed aluminum off of the shelf at
          > work before that someone had used to silver solder some parts, then stuck it
          > back on the shelf. It machined and drilled entirely different in the hot
          > spot of the block.
          >
          > K
          >
          > -----Original Message-----
          > From: William Abernathy
          > Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 9:21 PM
          > To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
          > Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Re: Chucking reamers
          >
          > I'm confident it's the setup, not the tool. Tried it with a .500 reamer, got
          > awful results, fixed things up a bit (lowered the speed, added WD-40 for
          > lube --
          > yes, it's 6061 aluminum), made sure everything was tight, and massaged out
          > about
          > .010 of slop, but it's still an arms-length exchange, with the head cranked
          > high
          > and a reamer waving around out in space (and yes, I drilled a pilot hole as
          > well...)
          >
          > --W
          >
          > Ramdog wrote:
          >> One other thing...if you have a .4995 reamer and are reaming at .511,
          >> either
          >> your reamer is really dull, the head in relationship to the table is out
          >> of
          >> tram, or you have a burr on the end of the reamer that is causing it to
          >> ream
          >> oversize. Are you using a lubricant on the hole when you are reaming? Also
          >> what about the speeds. You could be running too fast causing it to chatter
          >> somewhat. What kind of material are you working with
          >>
          >> --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Ramdog" <kweimer@...> wrote:
          >>>
          >>> Instead of ordering "straight flute chucking reamers", order "drill
          >>> length
          >>> chucking reamer". Problem solved. They're not hard to get, you're just
          >>> ordering the wrong ones. As far as taking the drill and chuck out and
          >>> using
          >>> an ER32 collet to hold your reamer for accuracy, there really is no need
          >>> to
          >>> do that as the reamer will follow the drilled hole anyways. I've rebuilt
          >>> many a die components and had to use a drill press swapping drills and
          >>> reamers and never had one problem in all the years I have done it.
          >>>
          >>> --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, Bill <bill_1955@> wrote:
          >>>> Ah….OK….can't help you much with the reamers. I only use `em for holes
          >>>> that I need a bit more accurate than just a drill.
          >>>>
          >>>> For bearings, bushings, etc, where I need to hold a tight tolerance, I
          >>>> always bore.
          >>>>
          >>>>
          >>>>
          >>>> I have one of those cheapie brazed carbide boring bar sets from
          >>>> Enco….the smallest ones will bore down to 5/16". I don't use `em much.
          >>>> All require a regrind to get `em to cut to begin with.
          >>>>
          >>>> For smaller bores, I generally use HSS. Both my 2" boring heads take ½"
          >>>> diameter tools, so I keep ½" diameter HSS rounds laying around, and
          >>>> grind `em to suit the job.
          >>>>
          >>>> I have used an old drill bit or two, with a little creative grinding, to
          >>>> get me out of a pinch. Be aware the shanks on HSS drill bits are not
          >>>> hardened.
          >>>>
          >>>>
          >>>>
          >>>> Bill
          >>>>
          >>>>
          >>>>
          >>>>
          >>>>
          >>>>
          >>>>
          >>>> From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On
          >>>> Behalf Of William Abernathy Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 10:09 AM To:
          >>>> mill_drill@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Chucking reamers
          >>>>
          >>>>
          >>>>
          >>>>
          >>>>
          >>>> Owing to the vertical-distance mambo we're all used to, I'm holding a
          >>>> drill bit in a drill chuck, then pulling the chuck and using an ER32
          >>>> collet to hold the reamer. As for why I don't bore it, it's a small hole
          >>>> and I'll have to dig around to see if I have any boring bars that A) fit
          >>>> my boring head and B) are smaller than a half-inch. I might end up going
          >>>> that route.
          >>>>
          >>>> Mostly, I just wanted to know what I was giving up by whittling down the
          >>>> tang. From the sound of things, not much.
          >>>>
          >>>> --W
          >>>>
          >>>> Arthur Marks wrote:
          >>>>> I've asked the same question before. Feel free to shorten that looong
          >>>>> shank - chop it, grind it, whatever, down to an appropriate length for
          >>>>> your use. There are intentionally short reamers made for screw machine
          >>>>> work, but they are not commonly available. They are more of a specialty
          >>>>> item and priced accordingly. Might also try single-point boring your
          >>>>> hole if you can do that. It'll be far more accurate than what you're
          >>>>> achieving now! :) Are you holding that reamer in a collet or a drill
          >>>>> chuck? -Arthur
          >>>> -- William Abernathy Berkeley, CA http://yourwritereditor.com
          >>>>
          >>>>
          >>>>
          >>>> _____
          >>>>
          >>>> No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version:
          >>>> 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6249 - Release Date: 04/16/13
          >>>>
          >>
          >>
          >>
          >> ------------------------------------
          >>
          >> Yahoo! Groups Links
          >>
          >>



          ------------------------------------

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        • Guenther Paul
          I have reamed many many holes on a drill press with the work not clamped in place in all metals. All one has to do is to relocate the hole and run the reamer
          Message 4 of 30 , Apr 24, 2013
          • 0 Attachment
            I have reamed many many holes on a drill press with the work not clamped in place in all metals.
            All one has to do is to relocate the hole and run the reamer slow. High rpm's will make the hole bigger
             
            GP



            From: Kevin Weimer <kweimer@...>
            To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
            Sent: Wed, April 24, 2013 9:12:04 AM
            Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Re: Chucking reamers - cutting oil

            In reading your previous response, it got me to thinking.......Is your part
            clamped down? And when you raise the head, or lower the table, how are you
            locating the hole again. If you have everything clamped solid, when you
            raise or lower the head or table, you're moving away from centerline of the
            hole, so when the reamer enters the hole, it is entering on a bind and a
            slight angle. Even if you are using the drill and reamer in a mill, if the
            mill is not perfectly trammed, any up or down movement of the table will
            result in a shift of the holes centerline causing an egg-shaped oversize
            hole. If the head is out of tram to the table in two directions, you are
            flexing the reamer all over the place. If you want a sketch showing what I
            mean, I can make up a quick on for you.

            K

            -----Original Message-----
            From: Goran Hosinsky
            Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2013 5:51 AM
            To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
            Cc: hosinsky@...
            Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Re: Chucking reamers - cutting oil

            Would these  recommendations also be valid when turning aluminum?
            Goran
            Canary Islands

            On 2013-04-23 17:15, Kevin Weimer wrote:
            > One other thing I just thought of, how much are you trying to ream? You
            > don't want your drill to be any smaller than one size less as the reamer
            > with fractional drills. So if you are reaming a .4995 hole, you want your
            > drill size to be no less than 31/64 or .484. And if the reamer is super
            > long, cut the shank off down to the same length as your drills. For one, I
            > like to keep my reamers in a drill case and nothing worse than having a
            > few
            > to long to shut the lid. Anyways, just wanted to toss that idea out there
            > to
            > eliminate some possibilities. One other thing too, swap out the WD-40 for
            > some oil. I always used Vactra because that's what we had at the shop, but
            > at home, any 10W-30 or similar will work. WD-40, although good stuff, just
            > doesn't seem to work as well for reaming, or at least to me it doesn't.
            > The
            > same with tapping, I like a good thick oil so the chips will stick in the
            > flute reliefs. That way you can back out the tap and bring the chips with
            > you.
            >
            > You say that the aluminum is 6061, but what hardness is it? I wouldn't
            > think
            > that it would be 6061-0, but I have grabbed aluminum off of the shelf at
            > work before that someone had used to silver solder some parts, then stuck
            > it
            > back on the shelf. It machined and drilled entirely different in the hot
            > spot of the block.
            >
            > K
            >
            > -----Original Message-----
            > From: William Abernathy
            > Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 9:21 PM
            > To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
            > Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Re: Chucking reamers
            >
            > I'm confident it's the setup, not the tool. Tried it with a .500 reamer,
            > got
            > awful results, fixed things up a bit (lowered the speed, added WD-40 for
            > lube --
            > yes, it's 6061 aluminum), made sure everything was tight, and massaged out
            > about
            > .010 of slop, but it's still an arms-length exchange, with the head
            > cranked
            > high
            > and a reamer waving around out in space (and yes, I drilled a pilot hole
            > as
            > well...)
            >
            > --W
            >
            > Ramdog wrote:
            >> One other thing...if you have a .4995 reamer and are reaming at .511,
            >> either
            >> your reamer is really dull, the head in relationship to the table is out
            >> of
            >> tram, or you have a burr on the end of the reamer that is causing it to
            >> ream
            >> oversize. Are you using a lubricant on the hole when you are reaming?
            >> Also
            >> what about the speeds. You could be running too fast causing it to
            >> chatter
            >> somewhat. What kind of material are you working with
            >>
            >> --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Ramdog" <kweimer@...> wrote:
            >>>
            >>> Instead of ordering "straight flute chucking reamers", order "drill
            >>> length
            >>> chucking reamer". Problem solved. They're not hard to get, you're just
            >>> ordering the wrong ones. As far as taking the drill and chuck out and
            >>> using
            >>> an ER32 collet to hold your reamer for accuracy, there really is no need
            >>> to
            >>> do that as the reamer will follow the drilled hole anyways. I've rebuilt
            >>> many a die components and had to use a drill press swapping drills and
            >>> reamers and never had one problem in all the years I have done it.
            >>>
            >>> --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, Bill <bill_1955@> wrote:
            >>>> Ah….OK….can't help you much with the reamers. I only use `em for holes
            >>>> that I need a bit more accurate than just a drill.
            >>>>
            >>>> For bearings, bushings, etc, where I need to hold a tight tolerance, I
            >>>> always bore.
            >>>>
            >>>>
            >>>>
            >>>> I have one of those cheapie brazed carbide boring bar sets from
            >>>> Enco….the smallest ones will bore down to 5/16". I don't use `em much.
            >>>> All require a regrind to get `em to cut to begin with.
            >>>>
            >>>> For smaller bores, I generally use HSS. Both my 2" boring heads take ½"
            >>>> diameter tools, so I keep ½" diameter HSS rounds laying around, and
            >>>> grind `em to suit the job.
            >>>>
            >>>> I have used an old drill bit or two, with a little creative grinding,
            >>>> to
            >>>> get me out of a pinch. Be aware the shanks on HSS drill bits are not
            >>>> hardened.
            >>>>
            >>>>
            >>>>
            >>>> Bill
            >>>>
            >>>>
            >>>>
            >>>>
            >>>>
            >>>>
            >>>>
            >>>> From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On
            >>>> Behalf Of William Abernathy Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 10:09 AM To:
            >>>> mill_drill@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Chucking reamers
            >>>>
            >>>>
            >>>>
            >>>>
            >>>>
            >>>> Owing to the vertical-distance mambo we're all used to, I'm holding a
            >>>> drill bit in a drill chuck, then pulling the chuck and using an ER32
            >>>> collet to hold the reamer. As for why I don't bore it, it's a small
            >>>> hole
            >>>> and I'll have to dig around to see if I have any boring bars that A)
            >>>> fit
            >>>> my boring head and B) are smaller than a half-inch. I might end up
            >>>> going
            >>>> that route.
            >>>>
            >>>> Mostly, I just wanted to know what I was giving up by whittling down
            >>>> the
            >>>> tang. From the sound of things, not much.
            >>>>
            >>>> --W
            >>>>
            >>>> Arthur Marks wrote:
            >>>>> I've asked the same question before. Feel free to shorten that looong
            >>>>> shank - chop it, grind it, whatever, down to an appropriate length for
            >>>>> your use. There are intentionally short reamers made for screw machine
            >>>>> work, but they are not commonly available. They are more of a
            >>>>> specialty
            >>>>> item and priced accordingly. Might also try single-point boring your
            >>>>> hole if you can do that. It'll be far more accurate than what you're
            >>>>> achieving now! :) Are you holding that reamer in a collet or a drill
            >>>>> chuck? -Arthur
            >>>> -- William Abernathy Berkeley, CA http://yourwritereditor.com
            >>>>
            >>>>
            >>>>
            >>>> _____
            >>>>
            >>>> No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version:
            >>>> 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6249 - Release Date: 04/16/13
            >>>>
            >>
            >>
            >>
            >> ------------------------------------
            >>
            >> Yahoo! Groups Links
            >>
            >>



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          • Kevin Weimer
            In reading your previous response, it got me to thinking.......Is your part clamped down? And when you raise the head, or lower the table, how are you locating
            Message 5 of 30 , Apr 24, 2013
            • 0 Attachment
              In reading your previous response, it got me to thinking.......Is your part
              clamped down? And when you raise the head, or lower the table, how are you
              locating the hole again. If you have everything clamped solid, when you
              raise or lower the head or table, you're moving away from centerline of the
              hole, so when the reamer enters the hole, it is entering on a bind and a
              slight angle. Even if you are using the drill and reamer in a mill, if the
              mill is not perfectly trammed, any up or down movement of the table will
              result in a shift of the holes centerline causing an egg-shaped oversize
              hole. If the head is out of tram to the table in two directions, you are
              flexing the reamer all over the place. If you want a sketch showing what I
              mean, I can make up a quick on for you.

              K

              -----Original Message-----
              From: Goran Hosinsky
              Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2013 5:51 AM
              To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
              Cc: hosinsky@...
              Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Re: Chucking reamers - cutting oil

              Would these recommendations also be valid when turning aluminum?
              Goran
              Canary Islands

              On 2013-04-23 17:15, Kevin Weimer wrote:
              > One other thing I just thought of, how much are you trying to ream? You
              > don't want your drill to be any smaller than one size less as the reamer
              > with fractional drills. So if you are reaming a .4995 hole, you want your
              > drill size to be no less than 31/64 or .484. And if the reamer is super
              > long, cut the shank off down to the same length as your drills. For one, I
              > like to keep my reamers in a drill case and nothing worse than having a
              > few
              > to long to shut the lid. Anyways, just wanted to toss that idea out there
              > to
              > eliminate some possibilities. One other thing too, swap out the WD-40 for
              > some oil. I always used Vactra because that's what we had at the shop, but
              > at home, any 10W-30 or similar will work. WD-40, although good stuff, just
              > doesn't seem to work as well for reaming, or at least to me it doesn't.
              > The
              > same with tapping, I like a good thick oil so the chips will stick in the
              > flute reliefs. That way you can back out the tap and bring the chips with
              > you.
              >
              > You say that the aluminum is 6061, but what hardness is it? I wouldn't
              > think
              > that it would be 6061-0, but I have grabbed aluminum off of the shelf at
              > work before that someone had used to silver solder some parts, then stuck
              > it
              > back on the shelf. It machined and drilled entirely different in the hot
              > spot of the block.
              >
              > K
              >
              > -----Original Message-----
              > From: William Abernathy
              > Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 9:21 PM
              > To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
              > Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Re: Chucking reamers
              >
              > I'm confident it's the setup, not the tool. Tried it with a .500 reamer,
              > got
              > awful results, fixed things up a bit (lowered the speed, added WD-40 for
              > lube --
              > yes, it's 6061 aluminum), made sure everything was tight, and massaged out
              > about
              > .010 of slop, but it's still an arms-length exchange, with the head
              > cranked
              > high
              > and a reamer waving around out in space (and yes, I drilled a pilot hole
              > as
              > well...)
              >
              > --W
              >
              > Ramdog wrote:
              >> One other thing...if you have a .4995 reamer and are reaming at .511,
              >> either
              >> your reamer is really dull, the head in relationship to the table is out
              >> of
              >> tram, or you have a burr on the end of the reamer that is causing it to
              >> ream
              >> oversize. Are you using a lubricant on the hole when you are reaming?
              >> Also
              >> what about the speeds. You could be running too fast causing it to
              >> chatter
              >> somewhat. What kind of material are you working with
              >>
              >> --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Ramdog" <kweimer@...> wrote:
              >>>
              >>> Instead of ordering "straight flute chucking reamers", order "drill
              >>> length
              >>> chucking reamer". Problem solved. They're not hard to get, you're just
              >>> ordering the wrong ones. As far as taking the drill and chuck out and
              >>> using
              >>> an ER32 collet to hold your reamer for accuracy, there really is no need
              >>> to
              >>> do that as the reamer will follow the drilled hole anyways. I've rebuilt
              >>> many a die components and had to use a drill press swapping drills and
              >>> reamers and never had one problem in all the years I have done it.
              >>>
              >>> --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, Bill <bill_1955@> wrote:
              >>>> Ah….OK….can't help you much with the reamers. I only use `em for holes
              >>>> that I need a bit more accurate than just a drill.
              >>>>
              >>>> For bearings, bushings, etc, where I need to hold a tight tolerance, I
              >>>> always bore.
              >>>>
              >>>>
              >>>>
              >>>> I have one of those cheapie brazed carbide boring bar sets from
              >>>> Enco….the smallest ones will bore down to 5/16". I don't use `em much.
              >>>> All require a regrind to get `em to cut to begin with.
              >>>>
              >>>> For smaller bores, I generally use HSS. Both my 2" boring heads take ½"
              >>>> diameter tools, so I keep ½" diameter HSS rounds laying around, and
              >>>> grind `em to suit the job.
              >>>>
              >>>> I have used an old drill bit or two, with a little creative grinding,
              >>>> to
              >>>> get me out of a pinch. Be aware the shanks on HSS drill bits are not
              >>>> hardened.
              >>>>
              >>>>
              >>>>
              >>>> Bill
              >>>>
              >>>>
              >>>>
              >>>>
              >>>>
              >>>>
              >>>>
              >>>> From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On
              >>>> Behalf Of William Abernathy Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 10:09 AM To:
              >>>> mill_drill@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Chucking reamers
              >>>>
              >>>>
              >>>>
              >>>>
              >>>>
              >>>> Owing to the vertical-distance mambo we're all used to, I'm holding a
              >>>> drill bit in a drill chuck, then pulling the chuck and using an ER32
              >>>> collet to hold the reamer. As for why I don't bore it, it's a small
              >>>> hole
              >>>> and I'll have to dig around to see if I have any boring bars that A)
              >>>> fit
              >>>> my boring head and B) are smaller than a half-inch. I might end up
              >>>> going
              >>>> that route.
              >>>>
              >>>> Mostly, I just wanted to know what I was giving up by whittling down
              >>>> the
              >>>> tang. From the sound of things, not much.
              >>>>
              >>>> --W
              >>>>
              >>>> Arthur Marks wrote:
              >>>>> I've asked the same question before. Feel free to shorten that looong
              >>>>> shank - chop it, grind it, whatever, down to an appropriate length for
              >>>>> your use. There are intentionally short reamers made for screw machine
              >>>>> work, but they are not commonly available. They are more of a
              >>>>> specialty
              >>>>> item and priced accordingly. Might also try single-point boring your
              >>>>> hole if you can do that. It'll be far more accurate than what you're
              >>>>> achieving now! :) Are you holding that reamer in a collet or a drill
              >>>>> chuck? -Arthur
              >>>> -- William Abernathy Berkeley, CA http://yourwritereditor.com
              >>>>
              >>>>
              >>>>
              >>>> _____
              >>>>
              >>>> No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version:
              >>>> 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6249 - Release Date: 04/16/13
              >>>>
              >>
              >>
              >>
              >> ------------------------------------
              >>
              >> Yahoo! Groups Links
              >>
              >>



              ------------------------------------

              Yahoo! Groups Links
            • Lynn Kasdorf
              I am in need of an R8 boring head for making holes of arbitrary sizes, and for cutting arcs, and all the other things you can do with a boring head on a mill.
              Message 6 of 30 , Apr 24, 2013
              • 0 Attachment
                I am in need of an R8 boring head for making holes of arbitrary sizes, and for cutting arcs, and all the other things you can do with a boring head on a mill. I wonder if any of you can suggest a decent head or set in the <$100 range.

                Over the years I have accumulated  a handful of carbide tip boring bars with 1/2" shanks as well as a number of smaller ones with 3/8" shanks. A number of the boring heads I see on ebay have 3/4" holes- I guess they require 3/4 boring bars? Or do people routinely use reducing sleeves to mount smaller shaft boring bars?

                The machines I'll be running this on are a Rockwell vertical mill and a full size Bridgeport clone.

                An example of one I am looking at is this:
                http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3662&category=

                Then, I see one on ebay with these specs:
                • Head = 3"
                • Boring Bar Hole = 3/4"
                • Cross Hole Diameter = 3/8"
                • Max. Offset = 1"
                • Thread Size = 1.5" - 18
                • Graduations = 0.001/0-50
                • Micrometer Lead Screw Provides 0.001" Direct Reading Accuracy and Ease of Adjusting
                • Double Bar Holder Permits a Greater Boring Range Without an Extreme Offset Condition

                Why is the cross hole 3/8 and the boring bar hole 3/4?

                There is much I need to learn about these things- I guess you can mount a boring bar vertically or horizontally.
                Thanks for any info.

                I don't have a large budget and I am not averse to lower price asian or Indian tooleing (I have some very nice pieces that were quite affordable). Is a boring head a case where it is worth spending a bit more money on a really good one?

                Lynn Kasdorf


              • Guenther Paul
                http://www.tools4cheap.net/proddetail.php?prod=3bore http://www.tools4cheap.net/proddetail.php?prod=2bore http://cdcotools.com/item.php?itemid=523 Lynn Check
                Message 7 of 30 , Apr 24, 2013
                • 0 Attachment
                   
                  Lynn
                  Check these boring heads out
                   
                  GP



                  From: Lynn Kasdorf <kasdorfmisc@...>
                  Sent: Wed, April 24, 2013 5:51:54 PM
                  Subject: [mill_drill] suggestions for affordable boring head

                   

                  I am in need of an R8 boring head for making holes of arbitrary sizes, and for cutting arcs, and all the other things you can do with a boring head on a mill. I wonder if any of you can suggest a decent head or set in the <$100 range.

                  Over the years I have accumulated  a handful of carbide tip boring bars with 1/2" shanks as well as a number of smaller ones with 3/8" shanks. A number of the boring heads I see on ebay have 3/4" holes- I guess they require 3/4 boring bars? Or do people routinely use reducing sleeves to mount smaller shaft boring bars?

                  The machines I'll be running this on are a Rockwell vertical mill and a full size Bridgeport clone.

                  An example of one I am looking at is this:
                  http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3662&category=

                  Then, I see one on ebay with these specs:

                  • Head = 3"
                  • Boring Bar Hole = 3/4"
                  • Cross Hole Diameter = 3/8"
                  • Max. Offset = 1"
                  • Thread Size = 1.5" - 18
                  • Graduations = 0.001/0-50
                  • Micrometer Lead Screw Provides 0.001" Direct Reading Accuracy and Ease of Adjusting
                  • Double Bar Holder Permits a Greater Boring Range Without an Extreme Offset Condition

                  Why is the cross hole 3/8 and the boring bar hole 3/4?

                  There is much I need to learn about these things- I guess you can mount a boring bar vertically or horizontally.
                  Thanks for any info.

                  I don't have a large budget and I am not averse to lower price asian or Indian tooleing (I have some very nice pieces that were quite affordable). Is a boring head a case where it is worth spending a bit more money on a really good one?

                  Lynn Kasdorf


                • William Abernathy
                  I have a cheap boring head, and it works fine. provided the screw isn t sticky and the graduations are on straight, even if it s wildly eccentric, it s still
                  Message 8 of 30 , Apr 24, 2013
                  • 0 Attachment
                    I have a cheap boring head, and it works fine. provided the screw isn't sticky
                    and the graduations are on straight, even if it's wildly eccentric, it's still
                    going to work.

                    Assuming you have a lathe, making a sleeve for the boring bar/socket interface
                    should be trivial.

                    --W

                    Lynn Kasdorf wrote:
                    >
                    >
                    > I am in need of an R8 boring head for making holes of arbitrary sizes, and for
                    > cutting arcs, and all the other things you can do with a boring head on a mill.
                    > I wonder if any of you can suggest a decent head or set in the <$100 range.
                    >
                    > Over the years I have accumulated a handful of carbide tip boring bars with
                    > 1/2" shanks as well as a number of smaller ones with 3/8" shanks. A number of
                    > the boring heads I see on ebay have 3/4" holes- I guess they require 3/4 boring
                    > bars? Or do people routinely use reducing sleeves to mount smaller shaft boring
                    > bars?
                    >
                    > The machines I'll be running this on are a Rockwell vertical mill and a full
                    > size Bridgeport clone.
                    >
                    > An example of one I am looking at is this:
                    > http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3662&category=
                    >
                    > Then, I see one on ebay with these specs:
                    >
                    > *
                    > Head = 3"
                    > *
                    > Boring Bar Hole = 3/4"
                    > *
                    > Cross Hole Diameter = 3/8"
                    > *
                    > Max. Offset = 1"
                    > *
                    > Thread Size = 1.5" - 18
                    > *
                    > Graduations = 0.001/0-50
                    > *
                    > Micrometer Lead Screw Provides 0.001" Direct Reading Accuracy and Ease of
                    > Adjusting
                    > *
                    > Double Bar Holder Permits a Greater Boring Range Without an Extreme Offset
                    > Condition
                    >
                    > Why is the cross hole 3/8 and the boring bar hole 3/4?
                    >
                    > There is much I need to learn about these things- I guess you can mount a boring
                    > bar vertically or horizontally.
                    > Thanks for any info.
                    >
                    > I don't have a large budget and I am not averse to lower price asian or Indian
                    > tooleing (I have some very nice pieces that were quite affordable). Is a boring
                    > head a case where it is worth spending a bit more money on a really good one?
                    >
                    > Lynn Kasdorf
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >

                    --
                    William Abernathy
                    Berkeley, CA
                    http://yourwritereditor.com
                  • Edgar
                    Here is a nice one you can make. You could scale the drawings to the size you need. You wouldn t have to make the special metric tap shown unless you want to
                    Message 9 of 30 , Apr 24, 2013
                    • 0 Attachment
                      Here is a nice one you can make. You could scale the drawings to the size you need. You wouldn't have to make the special metric tap shown unless you want to work in metric feeds. An R8>J33 adapter is about $20 and the dovetail cutter is around $50 (if you don't have one). The good news is that, though you could buy a Chinese boring head for $75, you would have the dovetail cutter to make the quick change lathe tool post also shown on this web site...plus the satisfaction of having a tool that you would be proud to put your name on.
                      http://homepage3.nifty.com/amigos/boring_head/boring_head-e.htm

                      Orlin in SC/USA


                      >
                      > --W
                      >
                      > Lynn Kasdorf wrote:
                      > >
                      > >
                      > > I am in need of an R8 boring head for making holes of arbitrary sizes, and for
                      > > cutting arcs, and all the other things you can do with a boring head on a mill.
                      > > I wonder if any of you can suggest a decent head or set in the <$100 range.
                      > >
                      > > Over the years I have accumulated a handful of carbide tip boring bars with
                      > > 1/2" shanks as well as a number of smaller ones with 3/8" shanks. A number of
                      > > the boring heads I see on ebay have 3/4" holes- I guess they require 3/4 boring
                      > > bars? Or do people routinely use reducing sleeves to mount smaller shaft boring
                      > > bars?
                      > >
                      > > The machines I'll be running this on are a Rockwell vertical mill and a full
                      > > size Bridgeport clone.
                      > >
                      > > An example of one I am looking at is this:
                      > > http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3662&category=
                      > >
                      > > Then, I see one on ebay with these specs:
                      > >
                      > > *
                      > > Head = 3"
                      > > *
                      > > Boring Bar Hole = 3/4"
                      > > *
                      > > Cross Hole Diameter = 3/8"
                      > > *
                      > > Max. Offset = 1"
                      > > *
                      > > Thread Size = 1.5" - 18
                      > > *
                      > > Graduations = 0.001/0-50
                      > > *
                      > > Micrometer Lead Screw Provides 0.001" Direct Reading Accuracy and Ease of
                      > > Adjusting
                      > > *
                      > > Double Bar Holder Permits a Greater Boring Range Without an Extreme Offset
                      > > Condition
                      > >
                      > > Why is the cross hole 3/8 and the boring bar hole 3/4?
                      > >
                      > > There is much I need to learn about these things- I guess you can mount a boring
                      > > bar vertically or horizontally.
                      > > Thanks for any info.
                      > >
                      > > I don't have a large budget and I am not averse to lower price asian or Indian
                      > > tooleing (I have some very nice pieces that were quite affordable). Is a boring
                      > > head a case where it is worth spending a bit more money on a really good one?
                      > >
                      > > Lynn Kasdorf
                      > >
                      > >
                      > >
                      > >
                      > >
                      >
                      > --
                      > William Abernathy
                      > Berkeley, CA
                      > http://yourwritereditor.com
                      >
                    • Michael Parrish
                      Lynn, I have had good luck with these guys: http://www.jtsmach.com/jtswebshop/Workholding/WH252.asp#two . They used to have 10% Tuesdays. Get on the email
                      Message 10 of 30 , Apr 24, 2013
                      • 0 Attachment
                        Lynn, I have had good luck with these guys: http://www.jtsmach.com/jtswebshop/Workholding/WH252.asp#two . They used to have 10% Tuesdays. Get on the email list, they actually have the occasional good deal. I have bought dozens of the 6" electronic calipers, to spread around the shops where I have worked (usually ~$9.95). The printed sale flyer has the best deals, I have gotten several digital linear slides from them (poor man's DRO). The website does not have the best user interface, but it works. Good hunting, Mike

                        --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, William Abernathy <william@...> wrote:
                        >
                        > I have a cheap boring head, and it works fine. provided the screw isn't sticky
                        > and the graduations are on straight, even if it's wildly eccentric, it's still
                        > going to work.
                        >
                        > Assuming you have a lathe, making a sleeve for the boring bar/socket interface
                        > should be trivial.
                        >
                        > --W
                        >
                        > Lynn Kasdorf wrote:
                        > >
                        > >
                        > > I am in need of an R8 boring head for making holes of arbitrary sizes, and for
                        > > cutting arcs, and all the other things you can do with a boring head on a mill.
                        > > I wonder if any of you can suggest a decent head or set in the <$100 range.
                        > >
                        > > Over the years I have accumulated a handful of carbide tip boring bars with
                        > > 1/2" shanks as well as a number of smaller ones with 3/8" shanks. A number of
                        > > the boring heads I see on ebay have 3/4" holes- I guess they require 3/4 boring
                        > > bars? Or do people routinely use reducing sleeves to mount smaller shaft boring
                        > > bars?
                        > >
                        > > The machines I'll be running this on are a Rockwell vertical mill and a full
                        > > size Bridgeport clone.
                        > >
                        > > An example of one I am looking at is this:
                        > > http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3662&category=
                        > >
                        > > Then, I see one on ebay with these specs:
                        > >
                        > > *
                        > > Head = 3"
                        > > *
                        > > Boring Bar Hole = 3/4"
                        > > *
                        > > Cross Hole Diameter = 3/8"
                        > > *
                        > > Max. Offset = 1"
                        > > *
                        > > Thread Size = 1.5" - 18
                        > > *
                        > > Graduations = 0.001/0-50
                        > > *
                        > > Micrometer Lead Screw Provides 0.001" Direct Reading Accuracy and Ease of
                        > > Adjusting
                        > > *
                        > > Double Bar Holder Permits a Greater Boring Range Without an Extreme Offset
                        > > Condition
                        > >
                        > > Why is the cross hole 3/8 and the boring bar hole 3/4?
                        > >
                        > > There is much I need to learn about these things- I guess you can mount a boring
                        > > bar vertically or horizontally.
                        > > Thanks for any info.
                        > >
                        > > I don't have a large budget and I am not averse to lower price asian or Indian
                        > > tooleing (I have some very nice pieces that were quite affordable). Is a boring
                        > > head a case where it is worth spending a bit more money on a really good one?
                        > >
                        > > Lynn Kasdorf
                        > >
                        > >
                        > >
                        > >
                        > >
                        >
                        > --
                        > William Abernathy
                        > Berkeley, CA
                        > http://yourwritereditor.com
                        >
                      • Ramdog
                        What you show from Little Machine Shop works fine for 99% of the jobs you need a boring head for. I think in the 30+ years of toolmaking and tool & die work, I
                        Message 11 of 30 , Apr 25, 2013
                        • 0 Attachment
                          What you show from Little Machine Shop works fine for 99% of the jobs you need a boring head for. I think in the 30+ years of toolmaking and tool & die work, I may have used one that used the 3/4" boring bars only once or twice, the rest of the time, it was either one that used the 1/2" boring bars, or a few years back, I bought a smaller boring head that uses the 3/8" boring bars.

                          What type of boring head are you using at the present? If things are sticking, maybe you have one of the lock screws dragging more than the others. I only snug them just a little and keep the screw tension for the adjustment screw just a little snug but not to the point that it sticks and then jumps. If it does, I make sure to back it off quite a ways and come back up to my mark so there is no chance of slop.

                          Kevin

                          --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, William Abernathy <william@...> wrote:
                          >
                          > I have a cheap boring head, and it works fine. provided the screw isn't sticky
                          > and the graduations are on straight, even if it's wildly eccentric, it's still
                          > going to work.
                          >
                          > Assuming you have a lathe, making a sleeve for the boring bar/socket interface
                          > should be trivial.
                          >
                          > --W
                          >
                          > Lynn Kasdorf wrote:
                          > >
                          > >
                          > > I am in need of an R8 boring head for making holes of arbitrary sizes, and for
                          > > cutting arcs, and all the other things you can do with a boring head on a mill.
                          > > I wonder if any of you can suggest a decent head or set in the <$100 range.
                          > >
                          > > Over the years I have accumulated a handful of carbide tip boring bars with
                          > > 1/2" shanks as well as a number of smaller ones with 3/8" shanks. A number of
                          > > the boring heads I see on ebay have 3/4" holes- I guess they require 3/4 boring
                          > > bars? Or do people routinely use reducing sleeves to mount smaller shaft boring
                          > > bars?
                          > >
                          > > The machines I'll be running this on are a Rockwell vertical mill and a full
                          > > size Bridgeport clone.
                          > >
                          > > An example of one I am looking at is this:
                          > > http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3662&category=
                          > >
                          > > Then, I see one on ebay with these specs:
                          > >
                          > > *
                          > > Head = 3"
                          > > *
                          > > Boring Bar Hole = 3/4"
                          > > *
                          > > Cross Hole Diameter = 3/8"
                          > > *
                          > > Max. Offset = 1"
                          > > *
                          > > Thread Size = 1.5" - 18
                          > > *
                          > > Graduations = 0.001/0-50
                          > > *
                          > > Micrometer Lead Screw Provides 0.001" Direct Reading Accuracy and Ease of
                          > > Adjusting
                          > > *
                          > > Double Bar Holder Permits a Greater Boring Range Without an Extreme Offset
                          > > Condition
                          > >
                          > > Why is the cross hole 3/8 and the boring bar hole 3/4?
                          > >
                          > > There is much I need to learn about these things- I guess you can mount a boring
                          > > bar vertically or horizontally.
                          > > Thanks for any info.
                          > >
                          > > I don't have a large budget and I am not averse to lower price asian or Indian
                          > > tooleing (I have some very nice pieces that were quite affordable). Is a boring
                          > > head a case where it is worth spending a bit more money on a really good one?
                          > >
                          > > Lynn Kasdorf
                          > >
                          > >
                          > >
                          > >
                          > >
                          >
                          > --
                          > William Abernathy
                          > Berkeley, CA
                          > http://yourwritereditor.com
                          >
                        • Lynn Kasdorf
                          I don t have a boring head at all currently. I have an assortment of 1/2 , 3/8 , and one or two 3/4 shank boring bars that I picked up over the years at
                          Message 12 of 30 , Apr 25, 2013
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                            I don't have a boring head at all currently. I have an assortment of 1/2", 3/8", and one or two 3/4" shank boring bars that I picked up over the years at auctions, but no boring head to mount them in. I am building a CNC machine currently and I am finding a need to bore metric size holes in some pieces.

                            Although I have had a mill and lathe or some sort since around 2000, I am just now getting more serious about machining and building more sophisticated stuff. I finally have a DRO on my Rockwell mill, for example!

                            LK

                            On 4/25/2013 9:58 AM, Ramdog wrote:
                             

                            What you show from Little Machine Shop works fine for 99% of the jobs you need a boring head for. I think in the 30+ years of toolmaking and tool & die work, I may have used one that used the 3/4" boring bars only once or twice, the rest of the time, it was either one that used the 1/2" boring bars, or a few years back, I bought a smaller boring head that uses the 3/8" boring bars.

                            What type of boring head are you using at the present? If things are sticking, maybe you have one of the lock screws dragging more than the others. I only snug them just a little and keep the screw tension for the adjustment screw just a little snug but not to the point that it sticks and then jumps. If it does, I make sure to back it off quite a ways and come back up to my mark so there is no chance of slop.

                            Kevin


                          • Ramdog
                            My mistake, I thought you had a boring head and were looking for another smaller one. The one you show would work fine for almost anything you are boring. If
                            Message 13 of 30 , Apr 25, 2013
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                              My mistake, I thought you had a boring head and were looking for another smaller one. The one you show would work fine for almost anything you are boring. If the hole comes out to be a large diameter, you can put your boring bar in the side of the holder and bore that way. Just make sure you have clearance underneath. I've watched a few guys wreck them by not paying attention what was on the other side of the hole. Lol!!!

                              --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, Lynn Kasdorf <kasdorfmisc@...> wrote:
                              >
                              > I don't have a boring head at all currently. I have an assortment of
                              > 1/2", 3/8", and one or two 3/4" shank boring bars that I picked up over
                              > the years at auctions, but no boring head to mount them in. I am
                              > building a CNC machine currently and I am finding a need to bore metric
                              > size holes in some pieces.
                              >
                              > Although I have had a mill and lathe or some sort since around 2000, I
                              > am just now getting more serious about machining and building more
                              > sophisticated stuff. I finally have a DRO on my Rockwell mill, for example!
                              >
                              > LK
                              >
                              > On 4/25/2013 9:58 AM, Ramdog wrote:
                              > >
                              > > What you show from Little Machine Shop works fine for 99% of the jobs
                              > > you need a boring head for. I think in the 30+ years of toolmaking and
                              > > tool & die work, I may have used one that used the 3/4" boring bars
                              > > only once or twice, the rest of the time, it was either one that used
                              > > the 1/2" boring bars, or a few years back, I bought a smaller boring
                              > > head that uses the 3/8" boring bars.
                              > >
                              > > What type of boring head are you using at the present? If things are
                              > > sticking, maybe you have one of the lock screws dragging more than the
                              > > others. I only snug them just a little and keep the screw tension for
                              > > the adjustment screw just a little snug but not to the point that it
                              > > sticks and then jumps. If it does, I make sure to back it off quite a
                              > > ways and come back up to my mark so there is no chance of slop.
                              > >
                              > > Kevin
                              > >
                              >
                            • W. Smith
                              I m with you Bill, boring the seat would be my first choice. Another Bill
                              Message 14 of 30 , Apr 25, 2013
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                                I'm with you Bill, boring the seat would be my first choice.

                                Another "Bill"

                                On 4/22/2013 12:36 PM, Bill wrote:
                                > Why would you not use a boring head?
                                >
                                >
                                >
                                > Bill
                                >
                              • Bill
                                Here Here!!!! The Bills have spoken! The other Bill J From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of W. Smith Sent:
                                Message 15 of 30 , Apr 25, 2013
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                                  Here Here!!!!

                                   

                                  The Bills have spoken!

                                   

                                  The other Bill

                                  J

                                   

                                  From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of W. Smith
                                  Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2013 11:33 AM
                                  To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                                  Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Re: Chucking reamers

                                   

                                   

                                  I'm with you Bill, boring the seat would be my first choice.

                                  Another "Bill"

                                  On 4/22/2013 12:36 PM, Bill wrote:
                                  > Why would you not use a boring head?
                                  >
                                  >
                                  >
                                  > Bill
                                  >


                                  No virus found in this message.
                                  Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
                                  Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6269 - Release Date: 04/23/13

                                • FocusKnobs
                                  That s fine - as long as no one *sends* us the Bill... From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bill Sent: Thursday,
                                  Message 16 of 30 , Apr 25, 2013
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                                    That’s fine – as long as no one *sends* us the Bill…

                                     

                                    From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bill
                                    Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2013 11:37 AM
                                    To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                                    Subject: RE: [mill_drill] Re: Chucking reamers

                                     




                                    Here Here!!!!

                                     

                                    The Bills have spoken!

                                     

                                    The other Bill

                                    J

                                     

                                    From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of W. Smith
                                    Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2013 11:33 AM
                                    To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                                    Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Re: Chucking reamers

                                     

                                     

                                    I'm with you Bill, boring the seat would be my first choice.

                                    Another "Bill"

                                    On 4/22/2013 12:36 PM, Bill wrote:
                                    > Why would you not use a boring head?
                                    >
                                    >
                                    >
                                    > Bill
                                    >

                                     


                                    No virus found in this message.
                                    Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
                                    Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6269 - Release Date: 04/23/13




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