Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.
 

Re: Chucking reamers

Expand Messages
  • Ramdog
    Instead of ordering straight flute chucking reamers , order drill length chucking reamer . Problem solved. They re not hard to get, you re just ordering the
    Message 1 of 30 , Apr 22, 2013
      Instead of ordering "straight flute chucking reamers", order "drill length chucking reamer". Problem solved. They're not hard to get, you're just ordering the wrong ones. As far as taking the drill and chuck out and using an ER32 collet to hold your reamer for accuracy, there really is no need to do that as the reamer will follow the drilled hole anyways. I've rebuilt many a die components and had to use a drill press swapping drills and reamers and never had one problem in all the years I have done it.

      --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, Bill <bill_1955@...> wrote:
      >
      > Ah….OK….can't help you much with the reamers. I only use `em for holes that
      > I need a bit more accurate than just a drill.
      >
      > For bearings, bushings, etc, where I need to hold a tight tolerance, I
      > always bore.
      >
      >
      >
      > I have one of those cheapie brazed carbide boring bar sets from Enco….the
      > smallest ones will bore down to 5/16". I don't use `em much. All require a
      > regrind to get `em to cut to begin with.
      >
      > For smaller bores, I generally use HSS. Both my 2" boring heads take ½"
      > diameter tools, so I keep ½" diameter HSS rounds laying around, and grind
      > `em to suit the job.
      >
      > I have used an old drill bit or two, with a little creative grinding, to get
      > me out of a pinch. Be aware the shanks on HSS drill bits are not hardened.
      >
      >
      >
      > Bill
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      > From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On
      > Behalf Of William Abernathy
      > Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 10:09 AM
      > To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
      > Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Chucking reamers
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      > Owing to the vertical-distance mambo we're all used to, I'm holding a drill
      > bit
      > in a drill chuck, then pulling the chuck and using an ER32 collet to hold
      > the
      > reamer. As for why I don't bore it, it's a small hole and I'll have to dig
      > around to see if I have any boring bars that A) fit my boring head and B)
      > are
      > smaller than a half-inch. I might end up going that route.
      >
      > Mostly, I just wanted to know what I was giving up by whittling down the
      > tang.
      > From the sound of things, not much.
      >
      > --W
      >
      > Arthur Marks wrote:
      > > I've asked the same question before. Feel free to shorten that looong
      > > shank - chop it, grind it, whatever, down to an appropriate length for
      > > your use. There are intentionally short reamers made for screw
      > > machine work, but they are not commonly available. They are more of a
      > > specialty item and priced accordingly. Might also try single-point
      > > boring your hole if you can do that. It'll be far more accurate than
      > > what you're achieving now! :) Are you holding that reamer in a
      > > collet or a drill chuck? -Arthur
      >
      > --
      > William Abernathy
      > Berkeley, CA
      > http://yourwritereditor.com
      >
      >
      >
      > _____
      >
      > No virus found in this message.
      > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
      > Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6249 - Release Date: 04/16/13
      >
    • Ramdog
      One other thing...if you have a .4995 reamer and are reaming at .511, either your reamer is really dull, the head in relationship to the table is out of tram,
      Message 2 of 30 , Apr 22, 2013
        One other thing...if you have a .4995 reamer and are reaming at .511, either your reamer is really dull, the head in relationship to the table is out of tram, or you have a burr on the end of the reamer that is causing it to ream oversize. Are you using a lubricant on the hole when you are reaming? Also what about the speeds. You could be running too fast causing it to chatter somewhat. What kind of material are you working with

        --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Ramdog" <kweimer@...> wrote:
        >
        >
        > Instead of ordering "straight flute chucking reamers", order "drill length chucking reamer". Problem solved. They're not hard to get, you're just ordering the wrong ones. As far as taking the drill and chuck out and using an ER32 collet to hold your reamer for accuracy, there really is no need to do that as the reamer will follow the drilled hole anyways. I've rebuilt many a die components and had to use a drill press swapping drills and reamers and never had one problem in all the years I have done it.
        >
        > --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, Bill <bill_1955@> wrote:
        > >
        > > Ah….OK….can't help you much with the reamers. I only use `em for holes that
        > > I need a bit more accurate than just a drill.
        > >
        > > For bearings, bushings, etc, where I need to hold a tight tolerance, I
        > > always bore.
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > > I have one of those cheapie brazed carbide boring bar sets from Enco….the
        > > smallest ones will bore down to 5/16". I don't use `em much. All require a
        > > regrind to get `em to cut to begin with.
        > >
        > > For smaller bores, I generally use HSS. Both my 2" boring heads take ½"
        > > diameter tools, so I keep ½" diameter HSS rounds laying around, and grind
        > > `em to suit the job.
        > >
        > > I have used an old drill bit or two, with a little creative grinding, to get
        > > me out of a pinch. Be aware the shanks on HSS drill bits are not hardened.
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > > Bill
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > > From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On
        > > Behalf Of William Abernathy
        > > Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 10:09 AM
        > > To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
        > > Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Chucking reamers
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > > Owing to the vertical-distance mambo we're all used to, I'm holding a drill
        > > bit
        > > in a drill chuck, then pulling the chuck and using an ER32 collet to hold
        > > the
        > > reamer. As for why I don't bore it, it's a small hole and I'll have to dig
        > > around to see if I have any boring bars that A) fit my boring head and B)
        > > are
        > > smaller than a half-inch. I might end up going that route.
        > >
        > > Mostly, I just wanted to know what I was giving up by whittling down the
        > > tang.
        > > From the sound of things, not much.
        > >
        > > --W
        > >
        > > Arthur Marks wrote:
        > > > I've asked the same question before. Feel free to shorten that looong
        > > > shank - chop it, grind it, whatever, down to an appropriate length for
        > > > your use. There are intentionally short reamers made for screw
        > > > machine work, but they are not commonly available. They are more of a
        > > > specialty item and priced accordingly. Might also try single-point
        > > > boring your hole if you can do that. It'll be far more accurate than
        > > > what you're achieving now! :) Are you holding that reamer in a
        > > > collet or a drill chuck? -Arthur
        > >
        > > --
        > > William Abernathy
        > > Berkeley, CA
        > > http://yourwritereditor.com
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > > _____
        > >
        > > No virus found in this message.
        > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
        > > Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6249 - Release Date: 04/16/13
        > >
        >
      • William Abernathy
        I m confident it s the setup, not the tool. Tried it with a .500 reamer, got awful results, fixed things up a bit (lowered the speed, added WD-40 for lube --
        Message 3 of 30 , Apr 22, 2013
          I'm confident it's the setup, not the tool. Tried it with a .500 reamer, got
          awful results, fixed things up a bit (lowered the speed, added WD-40 for lube --
          yes, it's 6061 aluminum), made sure everything was tight, and massaged out about
          .010 of slop, but it's still an arms-length exchange, with the head cranked high
          and a reamer waving around out in space (and yes, I drilled a pilot hole as well...)

          --W

          Ramdog wrote:
          > One other thing...if you have a .4995 reamer and are reaming at .511, either
          > your reamer is really dull, the head in relationship to the table is out of
          > tram, or you have a burr on the end of the reamer that is causing it to ream
          > oversize. Are you using a lubricant on the hole when you are reaming? Also
          > what about the speeds. You could be running too fast causing it to chatter
          > somewhat. What kind of material are you working with
          >
          > --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Ramdog" <kweimer@...> wrote:
          >>
          >>
          >> Instead of ordering "straight flute chucking reamers", order "drill length
          >> chucking reamer". Problem solved. They're not hard to get, you're just
          >> ordering the wrong ones. As far as taking the drill and chuck out and using
          >> an ER32 collet to hold your reamer for accuracy, there really is no need to
          >> do that as the reamer will follow the drilled hole anyways. I've rebuilt
          >> many a die components and had to use a drill press swapping drills and
          >> reamers and never had one problem in all the years I have done it.
          >>
          >> --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, Bill <bill_1955@> wrote:
          >>>
          >>> Ah….OK….can't help you much with the reamers. I only use `em for holes
          >>> that I need a bit more accurate than just a drill.
          >>>
          >>> For bearings, bushings, etc, where I need to hold a tight tolerance, I
          >>> always bore.
          >>>
          >>>
          >>>
          >>> I have one of those cheapie brazed carbide boring bar sets from
          >>> Enco….the smallest ones will bore down to 5/16". I don't use `em much.
          >>> All require a regrind to get `em to cut to begin with.
          >>>
          >>> For smaller bores, I generally use HSS. Both my 2" boring heads take ½"
          >>> diameter tools, so I keep ½" diameter HSS rounds laying around, and
          >>> grind `em to suit the job.
          >>>
          >>> I have used an old drill bit or two, with a little creative grinding, to
          >>> get me out of a pinch. Be aware the shanks on HSS drill bits are not
          >>> hardened.
          >>>
          >>>
          >>>
          >>> Bill
          >>>
          >>>
          >>>
          >>>
          >>>
          >>>
          >>>
          >>> From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On
          >>> Behalf Of William Abernathy Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 10:09 AM To:
          >>> mill_drill@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Chucking reamers
          >>>
          >>>
          >>>
          >>>
          >>>
          >>> Owing to the vertical-distance mambo we're all used to, I'm holding a
          >>> drill bit in a drill chuck, then pulling the chuck and using an ER32
          >>> collet to hold the reamer. As for why I don't bore it, it's a small hole
          >>> and I'll have to dig around to see if I have any boring bars that A) fit
          >>> my boring head and B) are smaller than a half-inch. I might end up going
          >>> that route.
          >>>
          >>> Mostly, I just wanted to know what I was giving up by whittling down the
          >>> tang. From the sound of things, not much.
          >>>
          >>> --W
          >>>
          >>> Arthur Marks wrote:
          >>>> I've asked the same question before. Feel free to shorten that looong
          >>>> shank - chop it, grind it, whatever, down to an appropriate length for
          >>>> your use. There are intentionally short reamers made for screw machine
          >>>> work, but they are not commonly available. They are more of a specialty
          >>>> item and priced accordingly. Might also try single-point boring your
          >>>> hole if you can do that. It'll be far more accurate than what you're
          >>>> achieving now! :) Are you holding that reamer in a collet or a drill
          >>>> chuck? -Arthur
          >>>
          >>> -- William Abernathy Berkeley, CA http://yourwritereditor.com
          >>>
          >>>
          >>>
          >>> _____
          >>>
          >>> No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version:
          >>> 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6249 - Release Date: 04/16/13
          >>>
          >>
          >
          >
          >
          >
          > ------------------------------------
          >
          > Yahoo! Groups Links
          >
          >

          --
          William Abernathy
          Berkeley, CA
          http://yourwritereditor.com
        • Andy M
          GDay William, The purpose of the long shank on a reamer is to allow the reamer to flex and follow the hole as drilled. I m sure you re aware that drill bits
          Message 4 of 30 , Apr 22, 2013
            GDay William,

            The purpose of the long shank on a reamer is to allow the reamer to flex
            and follow the hole as drilled.

            I'm sure you're aware that drill bits rarely cut perfect holes and the
            reamer is the best tool to use to correct those errant drilled holes.

            Shortening a reamer seriously prevents the reamer from doing it's job,
            so it is not recommended that you do so.

            Depending on the desired hole size, you should drill a hole that is no
            more than approx. 0.010 inches smaller than your reamer size. EG: For a
            0.250 reamer, your pilot hole should be approx. 0.240 in diameter.

            Taking too big a cut with a reamer will cause the reamer to wander,
            creating an oversized hole in the process. I think you may have
            discovered that already ;)

            Seats for bearings are best cut with a boring bar in the lathe or a
            boring head in the mill if the part is not cylindrical. You will get
            much better results that way and you will have much more control over
            the process.

            HTH

            --
            Regards
            Andy M



            William Abernathy wrote:
            > Been trying to cut a seat for a bearing. Because the reamer is so damned
            > long
            > (and because, on the mill-drill, that means cranking the head way up as
            > well...)
            > my 0.4995 reamer is cutting a 0.511 hole. Not a press fit, and getting
            > quite
            > frustrating!
            >
            > I can approach this in two ways: 1) saw off about four inches of reamer
            > tang, or
            > 2) plunge in with a center-cutting end mill.
            >
            > Before I go chopping off my reamers, I'd like to know: why do they make
            > chucking
            > reamers with such long (dang) tangs? It looks to really amplify any
            > inaccuracies
            > in the setup, and I can't really see any benefit to it. Do people use
            > them for
            > line boring or something?
            >
            > --W
            >
            > --
            > William Abernathy
            > Berkeley, CA
            > http://yourwritereditor.com
          • Stan Stocker
            Hi Folks, You need a floating reamer holder to allow the reamer to follow the hole being sized rather than the axis of the machine. Cheers, Stan
            Message 5 of 30 , Apr 23, 2013
              Hi Folks,

              You need a floating reamer holder to allow the reamer to follow the hole
              being sized rather than the axis of the machine.

              Cheers,
              Stan

              On 04/22/2013 01:09 PM, William Abernathy wrote:
              > Owing to the vertical-distance mambo we're all used to, I'm holding a drill bit
              > in a drill chuck, then pulling the chuck and using an ER32 collet to hold the
              > reamer. As for why I don't bore it, it's a small hole and I'll have to dig
              > around to see if I have any boring bars that A) fit my boring head and B) are
              > smaller than a half-inch. I might end up going that route.
              >
              > Mostly, I just wanted to know what I was giving up by whittling down the tang.
              > From the sound of things, not much.
              >
              > --W
            • Guenther Paul
              I don t understand the problems with the reamers. You drill the hole .015 smaller and ream it slow speed use a good cutting fluid and not WD-40. Engine oil
              Message 6 of 30 , Apr 23, 2013
                I don't understand the problems with the reamers. You drill the hole .015 smaller and ream it slow speed use a good cutting fluid and not WD-40. Engine oil would work better then WD-40. A self aligning reamer holder is not needed.
                If the reamer is used on high speed it will give one a over size hole 
                 
                GP



                From: Stan Stocker <skstocker@...>
                To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                Sent: Tue, April 23, 2013 8:51:49 AM
                Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Chucking reamers

                 

                Hi Folks,

                You need a floating reamer holder to allow the reamer to follow the hole
                being sized rather than the axis of the machine.

                Cheers,
                Stan

                On 04/22/2013 01:09 PM, William Abernathy wrote:
                > Owing to the vertical-distance mambo we're all used to, I'm holding a drill bit
                > in a drill chuck, then pulling the chuck and using an ER32 collet to hold the
                > reamer. As for why I don't bore it, it's a small hole and I'll have to dig
                > around to see if I have any boring bars that A) fit my boring head and B) are
                > smaller than a half-inch. I might end up going that route.
                >
                > Mostly, I just wanted to know what I was giving up by whittling down the tang.
                > From the sound of things, not much.
                >
                > --W

                Reply via web postReply to sender Reply to group Start a New TopicMessages in this topic (12)
                MARKETPLACE


                 
              • Guenther Paul
                K In my opinion all WD-40 id good for is to start a engine. Its bean marketed like crazy but no user will ever read the can. WD-40 is not a machining fluid and
                Message 7 of 30 , Apr 23, 2013
                  K
                  In my opinion all WD-40 id good for is to start a engine. Its bean marketed like crazy but no user will ever read the can. WD-40 is not a machining fluid and never will be
                   
                  GP



                  From: Kevin Weimer <kweimer@...>
                  To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                  Sent: Tue, April 23, 2013 9:15:35 AM
                  Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Re: Chucking reamers

                  One other thing I just thought of, how much are you trying to ream? You
                  don't want your drill to be any smaller than one size less as the reamer
                  with fractional drills. So if you are reaming a .4995 hole, you want your
                  drill size to be no less than 31/64 or .484. And if the reamer is super
                  long, cut the shank off down to the same length as your drills. For one, I
                  like to keep my reamers in a drill case and nothing worse than having a few
                  to long to shut the lid. Anyways, just wanted to toss that idea out there to
                  eliminate some possibilities. One other thing too, swap out the WD-40 for
                  some oil. I always used Vactra because that's what we had at the shop, but
                  at home, any 10W-30 or similar will work. WD-40, although good stuff, just
                  doesn't seem to work as well for reaming, or at least to me it doesn't. The
                  same with tapping, I like a good thick oil so the chips will stick in the
                  flute reliefs. That way you can back out the tap and bring the chips with
                  you.

                  You say that the aluminum is 6061, but what hardness is it? I wouldn't think
                  that it would be 6061-0, but I have grabbed aluminum off of the shelf at
                  work before that someone had used to silver solder some parts, then stuck it
                  back on the shelf. It machined and drilled entirely different in the hot
                  spot of the block.

                  K

                  -----Original Message-----
                  From: William Abernathy
                  Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 9:21 PM
                  To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                  Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Re: Chucking reamers

                  I'm confident it's the setup, not the tool. Tried it with a .500 reamer, got
                  awful results, fixed things up a bit (lowered the speed, added WD-40 for
                  lube --
                  yes, it's 6061 aluminum), made sure everything was tight, and massaged out
                  about
                  .010 of slop, but it's still an arms-length exchange, with the head cranked
                  high
                  and a reamer waving around out in space (and yes, I drilled a pilot hole as
                  well...)

                  --W

                  Ramdog wrote:
                  > One other thing...if you have a .4995 reamer and are reaming at .511,
                  > either
                  > your reamer is really dull, the head in relationship to the table is out
                  > of
                  > tram, or you have a burr on the end of the reamer that is causing it to
                  > ream
                  > oversize. Are you using a lubricant on the hole when you are reaming?
                  Also
                  > what about the speeds. You could be running too fast causing it to chatter
                  > somewhat. What kind of material are you working with
                  >
                  > --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Ramdog" <kweimer@...> wrote:
                  >>
                  >>
                  >> Instead of ordering "straight flute chucking reamers", order "drill
                  >> length
                  >> chucking reamer". Problem solved. They're not hard to get, you're just
                  >> ordering the wrong ones. As far as taking the drill and chuck out and
                  >> using
                  >> an ER32 collet to hold your reamer for accuracy, there really is no need
                  >> to
                  >> do that as the reamer will follow the drilled hole anyways. I've rebuilt
                  >> many a die components and had to use a drill press swapping drills and
                  >> reamers and never had one problem in all the years
                  I have done it.
                  >>
                  >> --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, Bill <bill_1955@> wrote:
                  >>>
                  >>> Ah….OK….can't help you much with the reamers. I only use `em for holes
                  >>> that I need a bit more accurate than just a drill.
                  >>>
                  >>> For bearings, bushings, etc, where I need to hold a tight tolerance, I
                  >>> always bore.
                  >>>
                  >>>
                  >>>
                  >>> I have one of those cheapie brazed carbide boring bar sets from
                  >>> Enco….the smallest ones will bore down to 5/16". I don't use `em much.
                  >>> All require a regrind to get `em to cut to begin with.
                  >>>
                  >>> For smaller bores, I generally use HSS. Both my 2" boring heads take ½"
                  >>> diameter tools, so I keep ½" diameter HSS rounds
                  laying around, and
                  >>> grind `em to suit the job.
                  >>>
                  >>> I have used an old drill bit or two, with a little creative grinding, to
                  >>> get me out of a pinch. Be aware the shanks on HSS drill bits are not
                  >>> hardened.
                  >>>
                  >>>
                  >>>
                  >>> Bill
                  >>>
                  >>>
                  >>>
                  >>>
                  >>>
                  >>>
                  >>>
                  >>> From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On
                  >>> Behalf Of William Abernathy Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 10:09 AM To:
                  >>> mill_drill@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re:
                  [mill_drill] Chucking reamers
                  >>>
                  >>>
                  >>>
                  >>>
                  >>>
                  >>> Owing to the vertical-distance mambo we're all used to, I'm holding a
                  >>> drill bit in a drill chuck, then pulling the chuck and using an ER32
                  >>> collet to hold the reamer. As for why I don't bore it, it's a small hole
                  >>> and I'll have to dig around to see if I have any boring bars that A) fit
                  >>> my boring head and B) are smaller than a half-inch. I might end up going
                  >>> that route.
                  >>>
                  >>> Mostly, I just wanted to know what I was giving up by whittling down the
                  >>> tang. From the sound of things, not much.
                  >>>
                  >>> --W
                  >>>
                  >>> Arthur Marks wrote:
                  >>>> I've asked the same question before. Feel free to shorten that looong
                  >>>> shank - chop it, grind it,
                  whatever, down to an appropriate length for
                  >>>> your use. There are intentionally short reamers made for screw machine
                  >>>> work, but they are not commonly available. They are more of a specialty
                  >>>> item and priced accordingly. Might also try single-point boring your
                  >>>> hole if you can do that. It'll be far more accurate than what you're
                  >>>> achieving now! :) Are you holding that reamer in a collet or a drill
                  >>>> chuck? -Arthur
                  >>>
                  >>> -- William Abernathy Berkeley, CA http://yourwritereditor.com
                  >>>
                  >>>
                  >>>
                  >>> _____
                  >>>
                  >>> No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version:
                  >>> 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6249 - Release Date:
                  04/16/13
                  >>>
                  >>
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  > ------------------------------------
                  >
                  > Yahoo! Groups Links
                  >
                  >

                  --
                  William Abernathy
                  Berkeley, CA
                  http://yourwritereditor.com


                  ------------------------------------

                  Yahoo! Groups Links






                  ------------------------------------

                  Yahoo! Groups Links

                  <*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
                      http://groups.yahoo.com/group/mill_drill/

                  <*> Your email settings:
                      Individual Email | Traditional

                  <*> To change settings online go to:
                      http://groups.yahoo.com/group/mill_drill/join
                      (Yahoo! ID required)

                  <*> To change settings via email:
                      mill_drill-digest@yahoogroups.com
                      mill_drill-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com

                  <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
                      mill_drill-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

                  <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
                      http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

                • Kevin Weimer
                  One other thing I just thought of, how much are you trying to ream? You don t want your drill to be any smaller than one size less as the reamer with
                  Message 8 of 30 , Apr 23, 2013
                    One other thing I just thought of, how much are you trying to ream? You
                    don't want your drill to be any smaller than one size less as the reamer
                    with fractional drills. So if you are reaming a .4995 hole, you want your
                    drill size to be no less than 31/64 or .484. And if the reamer is super
                    long, cut the shank off down to the same length as your drills. For one, I
                    like to keep my reamers in a drill case and nothing worse than having a few
                    to long to shut the lid. Anyways, just wanted to toss that idea out there to
                    eliminate some possibilities. One other thing too, swap out the WD-40 for
                    some oil. I always used Vactra because that's what we had at the shop, but
                    at home, any 10W-30 or similar will work. WD-40, although good stuff, just
                    doesn't seem to work as well for reaming, or at least to me it doesn't. The
                    same with tapping, I like a good thick oil so the chips will stick in the
                    flute reliefs. That way you can back out the tap and bring the chips with
                    you.

                    You say that the aluminum is 6061, but what hardness is it? I wouldn't think
                    that it would be 6061-0, but I have grabbed aluminum off of the shelf at
                    work before that someone had used to silver solder some parts, then stuck it
                    back on the shelf. It machined and drilled entirely different in the hot
                    spot of the block.

                    K

                    -----Original Message-----
                    From: William Abernathy
                    Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 9:21 PM
                    To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                    Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Re: Chucking reamers

                    I'm confident it's the setup, not the tool. Tried it with a .500 reamer, got
                    awful results, fixed things up a bit (lowered the speed, added WD-40 for
                    lube --
                    yes, it's 6061 aluminum), made sure everything was tight, and massaged out
                    about
                    .010 of slop, but it's still an arms-length exchange, with the head cranked
                    high
                    and a reamer waving around out in space (and yes, I drilled a pilot hole as
                    well...)

                    --W

                    Ramdog wrote:
                    > One other thing...if you have a .4995 reamer and are reaming at .511,
                    > either
                    > your reamer is really dull, the head in relationship to the table is out
                    > of
                    > tram, or you have a burr on the end of the reamer that is causing it to
                    > ream
                    > oversize. Are you using a lubricant on the hole when you are reaming? Also
                    > what about the speeds. You could be running too fast causing it to chatter
                    > somewhat. What kind of material are you working with
                    >
                    > --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Ramdog" <kweimer@...> wrote:
                    >>
                    >>
                    >> Instead of ordering "straight flute chucking reamers", order "drill
                    >> length
                    >> chucking reamer". Problem solved. They're not hard to get, you're just
                    >> ordering the wrong ones. As far as taking the drill and chuck out and
                    >> using
                    >> an ER32 collet to hold your reamer for accuracy, there really is no need
                    >> to
                    >> do that as the reamer will follow the drilled hole anyways. I've rebuilt
                    >> many a die components and had to use a drill press swapping drills and
                    >> reamers and never had one problem in all the years I have done it.
                    >>
                    >> --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, Bill <bill_1955@> wrote:
                    >>>
                    >>> Ah….OK….can't help you much with the reamers. I only use `em for holes
                    >>> that I need a bit more accurate than just a drill.
                    >>>
                    >>> For bearings, bushings, etc, where I need to hold a tight tolerance, I
                    >>> always bore.
                    >>>
                    >>>
                    >>>
                    >>> I have one of those cheapie brazed carbide boring bar sets from
                    >>> Enco….the smallest ones will bore down to 5/16". I don't use `em much.
                    >>> All require a regrind to get `em to cut to begin with.
                    >>>
                    >>> For smaller bores, I generally use HSS. Both my 2" boring heads take ½"
                    >>> diameter tools, so I keep ½" diameter HSS rounds laying around, and
                    >>> grind `em to suit the job.
                    >>>
                    >>> I have used an old drill bit or two, with a little creative grinding, to
                    >>> get me out of a pinch. Be aware the shanks on HSS drill bits are not
                    >>> hardened.
                    >>>
                    >>>
                    >>>
                    >>> Bill
                    >>>
                    >>>
                    >>>
                    >>>
                    >>>
                    >>>
                    >>>
                    >>> From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On
                    >>> Behalf Of William Abernathy Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 10:09 AM To:
                    >>> mill_drill@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Chucking reamers
                    >>>
                    >>>
                    >>>
                    >>>
                    >>>
                    >>> Owing to the vertical-distance mambo we're all used to, I'm holding a
                    >>> drill bit in a drill chuck, then pulling the chuck and using an ER32
                    >>> collet to hold the reamer. As for why I don't bore it, it's a small hole
                    >>> and I'll have to dig around to see if I have any boring bars that A) fit
                    >>> my boring head and B) are smaller than a half-inch. I might end up going
                    >>> that route.
                    >>>
                    >>> Mostly, I just wanted to know what I was giving up by whittling down the
                    >>> tang. From the sound of things, not much.
                    >>>
                    >>> --W
                    >>>
                    >>> Arthur Marks wrote:
                    >>>> I've asked the same question before. Feel free to shorten that looong
                    >>>> shank - chop it, grind it, whatever, down to an appropriate length for
                    >>>> your use. There are intentionally short reamers made for screw machine
                    >>>> work, but they are not commonly available. They are more of a specialty
                    >>>> item and priced accordingly. Might also try single-point boring your
                    >>>> hole if you can do that. It'll be far more accurate than what you're
                    >>>> achieving now! :) Are you holding that reamer in a collet or a drill
                    >>>> chuck? -Arthur
                    >>>
                    >>> -- William Abernathy Berkeley, CA http://yourwritereditor.com
                    >>>
                    >>>
                    >>>
                    >>> _____
                    >>>
                    >>> No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version:
                    >>> 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6249 - Release Date: 04/16/13
                    >>>
                    >>
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    > ------------------------------------
                    >
                    > Yahoo! Groups Links
                    >
                    >

                    --
                    William Abernathy
                    Berkeley, CA
                    http://yourwritereditor.com


                    ------------------------------------

                    Yahoo! Groups Links
                  • Goran Hosinsky
                    Would these recommendations also be valid when turning aluminum? Goran Canary Islands
                    Message 9 of 30 , Apr 24, 2013
                      Would these recommendations also be valid when turning aluminum?
                      Goran
                      Canary Islands

                      On 2013-04-23 17:15, Kevin Weimer wrote:
                      > One other thing I just thought of, how much are you trying to ream? You
                      > don't want your drill to be any smaller than one size less as the reamer
                      > with fractional drills. So if you are reaming a .4995 hole, you want your
                      > drill size to be no less than 31/64 or .484. And if the reamer is super
                      > long, cut the shank off down to the same length as your drills. For one, I
                      > like to keep my reamers in a drill case and nothing worse than having a few
                      > to long to shut the lid. Anyways, just wanted to toss that idea out there to
                      > eliminate some possibilities. One other thing too, swap out the WD-40 for
                      > some oil. I always used Vactra because that's what we had at the shop, but
                      > at home, any 10W-30 or similar will work. WD-40, although good stuff, just
                      > doesn't seem to work as well for reaming, or at least to me it doesn't. The
                      > same with tapping, I like a good thick oil so the chips will stick in the
                      > flute reliefs. That way you can back out the tap and bring the chips with
                      > you.
                      >
                      > You say that the aluminum is 6061, but what hardness is it? I wouldn't think
                      > that it would be 6061-0, but I have grabbed aluminum off of the shelf at
                      > work before that someone had used to silver solder some parts, then stuck it
                      > back on the shelf. It machined and drilled entirely different in the hot
                      > spot of the block.
                      >
                      > K
                      >
                      > -----Original Message-----
                      > From: William Abernathy
                      > Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 9:21 PM
                      > To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                      > Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Re: Chucking reamers
                      >
                      > I'm confident it's the setup, not the tool. Tried it with a .500 reamer, got
                      > awful results, fixed things up a bit (lowered the speed, added WD-40 for
                      > lube --
                      > yes, it's 6061 aluminum), made sure everything was tight, and massaged out
                      > about
                      > .010 of slop, but it's still an arms-length exchange, with the head cranked
                      > high
                      > and a reamer waving around out in space (and yes, I drilled a pilot hole as
                      > well...)
                      >
                      > --W
                      >
                      > Ramdog wrote:
                      >> One other thing...if you have a .4995 reamer and are reaming at .511,
                      >> either
                      >> your reamer is really dull, the head in relationship to the table is out
                      >> of
                      >> tram, or you have a burr on the end of the reamer that is causing it to
                      >> ream
                      >> oversize. Are you using a lubricant on the hole when you are reaming? Also
                      >> what about the speeds. You could be running too fast causing it to chatter
                      >> somewhat. What kind of material are you working with
                      >>
                      >> --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Ramdog" <kweimer@...> wrote:
                      >>>
                      >>> Instead of ordering "straight flute chucking reamers", order "drill
                      >>> length
                      >>> chucking reamer". Problem solved. They're not hard to get, you're just
                      >>> ordering the wrong ones. As far as taking the drill and chuck out and
                      >>> using
                      >>> an ER32 collet to hold your reamer for accuracy, there really is no need
                      >>> to
                      >>> do that as the reamer will follow the drilled hole anyways. I've rebuilt
                      >>> many a die components and had to use a drill press swapping drills and
                      >>> reamers and never had one problem in all the years I have done it.
                      >>>
                      >>> --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, Bill <bill_1955@> wrote:
                      >>>> Ah….OK….can't help you much with the reamers. I only use `em for holes
                      >>>> that I need a bit more accurate than just a drill.
                      >>>>
                      >>>> For bearings, bushings, etc, where I need to hold a tight tolerance, I
                      >>>> always bore.
                      >>>>
                      >>>>
                      >>>>
                      >>>> I have one of those cheapie brazed carbide boring bar sets from
                      >>>> Enco….the smallest ones will bore down to 5/16". I don't use `em much.
                      >>>> All require a regrind to get `em to cut to begin with.
                      >>>>
                      >>>> For smaller bores, I generally use HSS. Both my 2" boring heads take ½"
                      >>>> diameter tools, so I keep ½" diameter HSS rounds laying around, and
                      >>>> grind `em to suit the job.
                      >>>>
                      >>>> I have used an old drill bit or two, with a little creative grinding, to
                      >>>> get me out of a pinch. Be aware the shanks on HSS drill bits are not
                      >>>> hardened.
                      >>>>
                      >>>>
                      >>>>
                      >>>> Bill
                      >>>>
                      >>>>
                      >>>>
                      >>>>
                      >>>>
                      >>>>
                      >>>>
                      >>>> From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On
                      >>>> Behalf Of William Abernathy Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 10:09 AM To:
                      >>>> mill_drill@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Chucking reamers
                      >>>>
                      >>>>
                      >>>>
                      >>>>
                      >>>>
                      >>>> Owing to the vertical-distance mambo we're all used to, I'm holding a
                      >>>> drill bit in a drill chuck, then pulling the chuck and using an ER32
                      >>>> collet to hold the reamer. As for why I don't bore it, it's a small hole
                      >>>> and I'll have to dig around to see if I have any boring bars that A) fit
                      >>>> my boring head and B) are smaller than a half-inch. I might end up going
                      >>>> that route.
                      >>>>
                      >>>> Mostly, I just wanted to know what I was giving up by whittling down the
                      >>>> tang. From the sound of things, not much.
                      >>>>
                      >>>> --W
                      >>>>
                      >>>> Arthur Marks wrote:
                      >>>>> I've asked the same question before. Feel free to shorten that looong
                      >>>>> shank - chop it, grind it, whatever, down to an appropriate length for
                      >>>>> your use. There are intentionally short reamers made for screw machine
                      >>>>> work, but they are not commonly available. They are more of a specialty
                      >>>>> item and priced accordingly. Might also try single-point boring your
                      >>>>> hole if you can do that. It'll be far more accurate than what you're
                      >>>>> achieving now! :) Are you holding that reamer in a collet or a drill
                      >>>>> chuck? -Arthur
                      >>>> -- William Abernathy Berkeley, CA http://yourwritereditor.com
                      >>>>
                      >>>>
                      >>>>
                      >>>> _____
                      >>>>
                      >>>> No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version:
                      >>>> 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6249 - Release Date: 04/16/13
                      >>>>
                      >>
                      >>
                      >>
                      >> ------------------------------------
                      >>
                      >> Yahoo! Groups Links
                      >>
                      >>
                    • Guenther Paul
                      Yes the reaming process is the same for all metals GP ________________________________ From: Goran Hosinsky To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                      Message 10 of 30 , Apr 24, 2013
                        Yes the reaming process is the same for all metals 
                        GP



                        From: Goran Hosinsky <hosinsky@...>
                        To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                        Cc: hosinsky@...
                        Sent: Wed, April 24, 2013 8:51:46 AMocess
                        Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Re: Chucking reamers - cutting oil

                        Would these  recommendations also be valid when turning aluminum?
                        Goran
                        Canary Islands

                        On 2013-04-23 17:15, Kevin Weimer wrote:
                        > One other thing I just thought of, how much are you trying to ream? You
                        > don't want your drill to be any smaller than one size less as the reamer
                        > with fractional drills. So if you are reaming a .4995 hole, you want your
                        > drill size to be no less than 31/64 or .484. And if the reamer is super
                        > long, cut the shank off down to the same length as your drills. For one, I
                        > like to keep my reamers in a drill case and nothing worse than having a few
                        > to long to shut the lid. Anyways, just wanted to toss that idea out there to
                        > eliminate some possibilities. One other thing too, swap out the WD-40 for
                        > some oil. I always used Vactra because that's what we had at the shop, but
                        > at home, any 10W-30 or similar will work. WD-40, although good stuff, just
                        > doesn't seem to work as well for reaming, or at least to me it doesn't. The
                        > same with tapping, I like a good thick oil so the chips will stick in the
                        > flute reliefs. That way you can back out the tap and bring the chips with
                        > you.
                        >
                        > You say that the aluminum is 6061, but what hardness is it? I wouldn't think
                        > that it would be 6061-0, but I have grabbed aluminum off of the shelf at
                        > work before that someone had used to silver solder some parts, then stuck it
                        > back on the shelf. It machined and drilled entirely different in the hot
                        > spot of the block.
                        >
                        > K
                        >
                        > -----Original Message-----
                        > From: William Abernathy
                        > Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 9:21 PM
                        > To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                        > Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Re: Chucking reamers
                        >
                        > I'm confident it's the setup, not the tool. Tried it with a .500 reamer, got
                        > awful results, fixed things up a bit (lowered the speed, added WD-40 for
                        > lube --
                        > yes, it's 6061 aluminum), made sure everything was tight, and massaged out
                        > about
                        > .010 of slop, but it's still an arms-length exchange, with the head cranked
                        > high
                        > and a reamer waving around out in space (and yes, I drilled a pilot hole as
                        > well...)
                        >
                        > --W
                        >
                        > Ramdog wrote:
                        >> One other thing...if you have a .4995 reamer and are reaming at .511,
                        >> either
                        >> your reamer is really dull, the head in relationship to the table is out
                        >> of
                        >> tram, or you have a burr on the end of the reamer that is causing it to
                        >> ream
                        >> oversize. Are you using a lubricant on the hole when you are reaming? Also
                        >> what about the speeds. You could be running too fast causing it to chatter
                        >> somewhat. What kind of material are you working with
                        >>
                        >> --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Ramdog" <kweimer@...> wrote:
                        >>>
                        >>> Instead of ordering "straight flute chucking reamers", order "drill
                        >>> length
                        >>> chucking reamer". Problem solved. They're not hard to get, you're just
                        >>> ordering the wrong ones. As far as taking the drill and chuck out and
                        >>> using
                        >>> an ER32 collet to hold your reamer for accuracy, there really is no need
                        >>> to
                        >>> do that as the reamer will follow the drilled hole anyways. I've rebuilt
                        >>> many a die components and had to use a drill press swapping drills and
                        >>> reamers and never had one problem in all the years I have done it.
                        >>>
                        >>> --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, Bill <bill_1955@> wrote:
                        >>>> Ah….OK….can't help you much with the reamers. I only use `em for holes
                        >>>> that I need a bit more accurate than just a drill.
                        >>>>
                        >>>> For bearings, bushings, etc, where I need to hold a tight tolerance, I
                        >>>> always bore.
                        >>>>
                        >>>>
                        >>>>
                        >>>> I have one of those cheapie brazed carbide boring bar sets from
                        >>>> Enco….the smallest ones will bore down to 5/16". I don't use `em much.
                        >>>> All require a regrind to get `em to cut to begin with.
                        >>>>
                        >>>> For smaller bores, I generally use HSS. Both my 2" boring heads take ½"
                        >>>> diameter tools, so I keep ½" diameter HSS rounds laying around, and
                        >>>> grind `em to suit the job.
                        >>>>
                        >>>> I have used an old drill bit or two, with a little creative grinding, to
                        >>>> get me out of a pinch. Be aware the shanks on HSS drill bits are not
                        >>>> hardened.
                        >>>>
                        >>>>
                        >>>>
                        >>>> Bill
                        >>>>
                        >>>>
                        >>>>
                        >>>>
                        >>>>
                        >>>>
                        >>>>
                        >>>> From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On
                        >>>> Behalf Of William Abernathy Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 10:09 AM To:
                        >>>> mill_drill@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Chucking reamers
                        >>>>
                        >>>>
                        >>>>
                        >>>>
                        >>>>
                        >>>> Owing to the vertical-distance mambo we're all used to, I'm holding a
                        >>>> drill bit in a drill chuck, then pulling the chuck and using an ER32
                        >>>> collet to hold the reamer. As for why I don't bore it, it's a small hole
                        >>>> and I'll have to dig around to see if I have any boring bars that A) fit
                        >>>> my boring head and B) are smaller than a half-inch. I might end up going
                        >>>> that route.
                        >>>>
                        >>>> Mostly, I just wanted to know what I was giving up by whittling down the
                        >>>> tang. From the sound of things, not much.
                        >>>>
                        >>>> --W
                        >>>>
                        >>>> Arthur Marks wrote:
                        >>>>> I've asked the same question before. Feel free to shorten that looong
                        >>>>> shank - chop it, grind it, whatever, down to an appropriate length for
                        >>>>> your use. There are intentionally short reamers made for screw machine
                        >>>>> work, but they are not commonly available. They are more of a specialty
                        >>>>> item and priced accordingly. Might also try single-point boring your
                        >>>>> hole if you can do that. It'll be far more accurate than what you're
                        >>>>> achieving now! :) Are you holding that reamer in a collet or a drill
                        >>>>> chuck? -Arthur
                        >>>> -- William Abernathy Berkeley, CA http://yourwritereditor.com
                        >>>>
                        >>>>
                        >>>>
                        >>>> _____
                        >>>>
                        >>>> No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version:
                        >>>> 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6249 - Release Date: 04/16/13
                        >>>>
                        >>
                        >>
                        >>
                        >> ------------------------------------
                        >>
                        >> Yahoo! Groups Links
                        >>
                        >>



                        ------------------------------------

                        Yahoo! Groups Links

                        <*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
                            http://groups.yahoo.com/group/mill_drill/

                        <*> Your email settings:
                            Individual Email | Traditional

                        <*> To change settings online go to:
                            http://groups.yahoo.com/group/mill_drill/join
                            (Yahoo! ID required)

                        <*> To change settings via email:
                            mill_drill-digest@yahoogroups.com
                            mill_drill-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com

                        <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
                            mill_drill-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

                        <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
                            http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

                      • Guenther Paul
                        I have reamed many many holes on a drill press with the work not clamped in place in all metals. All one has to do is to relocate the hole and run the reamer
                        Message 11 of 30 , Apr 24, 2013
                          I have reamed many many holes on a drill press with the work not clamped in place in all metals.
                          All one has to do is to relocate the hole and run the reamer slow. High rpm's will make the hole bigger
                           
                          GP



                          From: Kevin Weimer <kweimer@...>
                          To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                          Sent: Wed, April 24, 2013 9:12:04 AM
                          Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Re: Chucking reamers - cutting oil

                          In reading your previous response, it got me to thinking.......Is your part
                          clamped down? And when you raise the head, or lower the table, how are you
                          locating the hole again. If you have everything clamped solid, when you
                          raise or lower the head or table, you're moving away from centerline of the
                          hole, so when the reamer enters the hole, it is entering on a bind and a
                          slight angle. Even if you are using the drill and reamer in a mill, if the
                          mill is not perfectly trammed, any up or down movement of the table will
                          result in a shift of the holes centerline causing an egg-shaped oversize
                          hole. If the head is out of tram to the table in two directions, you are
                          flexing the reamer all over the place. If you want a sketch showing what I
                          mean, I can make up a quick on for you.

                          K

                          -----Original Message-----
                          From: Goran Hosinsky
                          Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2013 5:51 AM
                          To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                          Cc: hosinsky@...
                          Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Re: Chucking reamers - cutting oil

                          Would these  recommendations also be valid when turning aluminum?
                          Goran
                          Canary Islands

                          On 2013-04-23 17:15, Kevin Weimer wrote:
                          > One other thing I just thought of, how much are you trying to ream? You
                          > don't want your drill to be any smaller than one size less as the reamer
                          > with fractional drills. So if you are reaming a .4995 hole, you want your
                          > drill size to be no less than 31/64 or .484. And if the reamer is super
                          > long, cut the shank off down to the same length as your drills. For one, I
                          > like to keep my reamers in a drill case and nothing worse than having a
                          > few
                          > to long to shut the lid. Anyways, just wanted to toss that idea out there
                          > to
                          > eliminate some possibilities. One other thing too, swap out the WD-40 for
                          > some oil. I always used Vactra because that's what we had at the shop, but
                          > at home, any 10W-30 or similar will work. WD-40, although good stuff, just
                          > doesn't seem to work as well for reaming, or at least to me it doesn't.
                          > The
                          > same with tapping, I like a good thick oil so the chips will stick in the
                          > flute reliefs. That way you can back out the tap and bring the chips with
                          > you.
                          >
                          > You say that the aluminum is 6061, but what hardness is it? I wouldn't
                          > think
                          > that it would be 6061-0, but I have grabbed aluminum off of the shelf at
                          > work before that someone had used to silver solder some parts, then stuck
                          > it
                          > back on the shelf. It machined and drilled entirely different in the hot
                          > spot of the block.
                          >
                          > K
                          >
                          > -----Original Message-----
                          > From: William Abernathy
                          > Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 9:21 PM
                          > To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                          > Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Re: Chucking reamers
                          >
                          > I'm confident it's the setup, not the tool. Tried it with a .500 reamer,
                          > got
                          > awful results, fixed things up a bit (lowered the speed, added WD-40 for
                          > lube --
                          > yes, it's 6061 aluminum), made sure everything was tight, and massaged out
                          > about
                          > .010 of slop, but it's still an arms-length exchange, with the head
                          > cranked
                          > high
                          > and a reamer waving around out in space (and yes, I drilled a pilot hole
                          > as
                          > well...)
                          >
                          > --W
                          >
                          > Ramdog wrote:
                          >> One other thing...if you have a .4995 reamer and are reaming at .511,
                          >> either
                          >> your reamer is really dull, the head in relationship to the table is out
                          >> of
                          >> tram, or you have a burr on the end of the reamer that is causing it to
                          >> ream
                          >> oversize. Are you using a lubricant on the hole when you are reaming?
                          >> Also
                          >> what about the speeds. You could be running too fast causing it to
                          >> chatter
                          >> somewhat. What kind of material are you working with
                          >>
                          >> --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Ramdog" <kweimer@...> wrote:
                          >>>
                          >>> Instead of ordering "straight flute chucking reamers", order "drill
                          >>> length
                          >>> chucking reamer". Problem solved. They're not hard to get, you're just
                          >>> ordering the wrong ones. As far as taking the drill and chuck out and
                          >>> using
                          >>> an ER32 collet to hold your reamer for accuracy, there really is no need
                          >>> to
                          >>> do that as the reamer will follow the drilled hole anyways. I've rebuilt
                          >>> many a die components and had to use a drill press swapping drills and
                          >>> reamers and never had one problem in all the years I have done it.
                          >>>
                          >>> --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, Bill <bill_1955@> wrote:
                          >>>> Ah….OK….can't help you much with the reamers. I only use `em for holes
                          >>>> that I need a bit more accurate than just a drill.
                          >>>>
                          >>>> For bearings, bushings, etc, where I need to hold a tight tolerance, I
                          >>>> always bore.
                          >>>>
                          >>>>
                          >>>>
                          >>>> I have one of those cheapie brazed carbide boring bar sets from
                          >>>> Enco….the smallest ones will bore down to 5/16". I don't use `em much.
                          >>>> All require a regrind to get `em to cut to begin with.
                          >>>>
                          >>>> For smaller bores, I generally use HSS. Both my 2" boring heads take ½"
                          >>>> diameter tools, so I keep ½" diameter HSS rounds laying around, and
                          >>>> grind `em to suit the job.
                          >>>>
                          >>>> I have used an old drill bit or two, with a little creative grinding,
                          >>>> to
                          >>>> get me out of a pinch. Be aware the shanks on HSS drill bits are not
                          >>>> hardened.
                          >>>>
                          >>>>
                          >>>>
                          >>>> Bill
                          >>>>
                          >>>>
                          >>>>
                          >>>>
                          >>>>
                          >>>>
                          >>>>
                          >>>> From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On
                          >>>> Behalf Of William Abernathy Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 10:09 AM To:
                          >>>> mill_drill@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Chucking reamers
                          >>>>
                          >>>>
                          >>>>
                          >>>>
                          >>>>
                          >>>> Owing to the vertical-distance mambo we're all used to, I'm holding a
                          >>>> drill bit in a drill chuck, then pulling the chuck and using an ER32
                          >>>> collet to hold the reamer. As for why I don't bore it, it's a small
                          >>>> hole
                          >>>> and I'll have to dig around to see if I have any boring bars that A)
                          >>>> fit
                          >>>> my boring head and B) are smaller than a half-inch. I might end up
                          >>>> going
                          >>>> that route.
                          >>>>
                          >>>> Mostly, I just wanted to know what I was giving up by whittling down
                          >>>> the
                          >>>> tang. From the sound of things, not much.
                          >>>>
                          >>>> --W
                          >>>>
                          >>>> Arthur Marks wrote:
                          >>>>> I've asked the same question before. Feel free to shorten that looong
                          >>>>> shank - chop it, grind it, whatever, down to an appropriate length for
                          >>>>> your use. There are intentionally short reamers made for screw machine
                          >>>>> work, but they are not commonly available. They are more of a
                          >>>>> specialty
                          >>>>> item and priced accordingly. Might also try single-point boring your
                          >>>>> hole if you can do that. It'll be far more accurate than what you're
                          >>>>> achieving now! :) Are you holding that reamer in a collet or a drill
                          >>>>> chuck? -Arthur
                          >>>> -- William Abernathy Berkeley, CA http://yourwritereditor.com
                          >>>>
                          >>>>
                          >>>>
                          >>>> _____
                          >>>>
                          >>>> No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version:
                          >>>> 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6249 - Release Date: 04/16/13
                          >>>>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >> ------------------------------------
                          >>
                          >> Yahoo! Groups Links
                          >>
                          >>



                          ------------------------------------

                          Yahoo! Groups Links






                          ------------------------------------

                          Yahoo! Groups Links

                          <*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
                              http://groups.yahoo.com/group/mill_drill/

                          <*> Your email settings:
                              Individual Email | Traditional

                          <*> To change settings online go to:
                              http://groups.yahoo.com/group/mill_drill/join
                              (Yahoo! ID required)

                          <*> To change settings via email:
                              mill_drill-digest@yahoogroups.com
                              mill_drill-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com

                          <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
                              mill_drill-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

                          <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
                              http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

                        • Kevin Weimer
                          In reading your previous response, it got me to thinking.......Is your part clamped down? And when you raise the head, or lower the table, how are you locating
                          Message 12 of 30 , Apr 24, 2013
                            In reading your previous response, it got me to thinking.......Is your part
                            clamped down? And when you raise the head, or lower the table, how are you
                            locating the hole again. If you have everything clamped solid, when you
                            raise or lower the head or table, you're moving away from centerline of the
                            hole, so when the reamer enters the hole, it is entering on a bind and a
                            slight angle. Even if you are using the drill and reamer in a mill, if the
                            mill is not perfectly trammed, any up or down movement of the table will
                            result in a shift of the holes centerline causing an egg-shaped oversize
                            hole. If the head is out of tram to the table in two directions, you are
                            flexing the reamer all over the place. If you want a sketch showing what I
                            mean, I can make up a quick on for you.

                            K

                            -----Original Message-----
                            From: Goran Hosinsky
                            Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2013 5:51 AM
                            To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                            Cc: hosinsky@...
                            Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Re: Chucking reamers - cutting oil

                            Would these recommendations also be valid when turning aluminum?
                            Goran
                            Canary Islands

                            On 2013-04-23 17:15, Kevin Weimer wrote:
                            > One other thing I just thought of, how much are you trying to ream? You
                            > don't want your drill to be any smaller than one size less as the reamer
                            > with fractional drills. So if you are reaming a .4995 hole, you want your
                            > drill size to be no less than 31/64 or .484. And if the reamer is super
                            > long, cut the shank off down to the same length as your drills. For one, I
                            > like to keep my reamers in a drill case and nothing worse than having a
                            > few
                            > to long to shut the lid. Anyways, just wanted to toss that idea out there
                            > to
                            > eliminate some possibilities. One other thing too, swap out the WD-40 for
                            > some oil. I always used Vactra because that's what we had at the shop, but
                            > at home, any 10W-30 or similar will work. WD-40, although good stuff, just
                            > doesn't seem to work as well for reaming, or at least to me it doesn't.
                            > The
                            > same with tapping, I like a good thick oil so the chips will stick in the
                            > flute reliefs. That way you can back out the tap and bring the chips with
                            > you.
                            >
                            > You say that the aluminum is 6061, but what hardness is it? I wouldn't
                            > think
                            > that it would be 6061-0, but I have grabbed aluminum off of the shelf at
                            > work before that someone had used to silver solder some parts, then stuck
                            > it
                            > back on the shelf. It machined and drilled entirely different in the hot
                            > spot of the block.
                            >
                            > K
                            >
                            > -----Original Message-----
                            > From: William Abernathy
                            > Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 9:21 PM
                            > To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                            > Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Re: Chucking reamers
                            >
                            > I'm confident it's the setup, not the tool. Tried it with a .500 reamer,
                            > got
                            > awful results, fixed things up a bit (lowered the speed, added WD-40 for
                            > lube --
                            > yes, it's 6061 aluminum), made sure everything was tight, and massaged out
                            > about
                            > .010 of slop, but it's still an arms-length exchange, with the head
                            > cranked
                            > high
                            > and a reamer waving around out in space (and yes, I drilled a pilot hole
                            > as
                            > well...)
                            >
                            > --W
                            >
                            > Ramdog wrote:
                            >> One other thing...if you have a .4995 reamer and are reaming at .511,
                            >> either
                            >> your reamer is really dull, the head in relationship to the table is out
                            >> of
                            >> tram, or you have a burr on the end of the reamer that is causing it to
                            >> ream
                            >> oversize. Are you using a lubricant on the hole when you are reaming?
                            >> Also
                            >> what about the speeds. You could be running too fast causing it to
                            >> chatter
                            >> somewhat. What kind of material are you working with
                            >>
                            >> --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Ramdog" <kweimer@...> wrote:
                            >>>
                            >>> Instead of ordering "straight flute chucking reamers", order "drill
                            >>> length
                            >>> chucking reamer". Problem solved. They're not hard to get, you're just
                            >>> ordering the wrong ones. As far as taking the drill and chuck out and
                            >>> using
                            >>> an ER32 collet to hold your reamer for accuracy, there really is no need
                            >>> to
                            >>> do that as the reamer will follow the drilled hole anyways. I've rebuilt
                            >>> many a die components and had to use a drill press swapping drills and
                            >>> reamers and never had one problem in all the years I have done it.
                            >>>
                            >>> --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, Bill <bill_1955@> wrote:
                            >>>> Ah….OK….can't help you much with the reamers. I only use `em for holes
                            >>>> that I need a bit more accurate than just a drill.
                            >>>>
                            >>>> For bearings, bushings, etc, where I need to hold a tight tolerance, I
                            >>>> always bore.
                            >>>>
                            >>>>
                            >>>>
                            >>>> I have one of those cheapie brazed carbide boring bar sets from
                            >>>> Enco….the smallest ones will bore down to 5/16". I don't use `em much.
                            >>>> All require a regrind to get `em to cut to begin with.
                            >>>>
                            >>>> For smaller bores, I generally use HSS. Both my 2" boring heads take ½"
                            >>>> diameter tools, so I keep ½" diameter HSS rounds laying around, and
                            >>>> grind `em to suit the job.
                            >>>>
                            >>>> I have used an old drill bit or two, with a little creative grinding,
                            >>>> to
                            >>>> get me out of a pinch. Be aware the shanks on HSS drill bits are not
                            >>>> hardened.
                            >>>>
                            >>>>
                            >>>>
                            >>>> Bill
                            >>>>
                            >>>>
                            >>>>
                            >>>>
                            >>>>
                            >>>>
                            >>>>
                            >>>> From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On
                            >>>> Behalf Of William Abernathy Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 10:09 AM To:
                            >>>> mill_drill@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Chucking reamers
                            >>>>
                            >>>>
                            >>>>
                            >>>>
                            >>>>
                            >>>> Owing to the vertical-distance mambo we're all used to, I'm holding a
                            >>>> drill bit in a drill chuck, then pulling the chuck and using an ER32
                            >>>> collet to hold the reamer. As for why I don't bore it, it's a small
                            >>>> hole
                            >>>> and I'll have to dig around to see if I have any boring bars that A)
                            >>>> fit
                            >>>> my boring head and B) are smaller than a half-inch. I might end up
                            >>>> going
                            >>>> that route.
                            >>>>
                            >>>> Mostly, I just wanted to know what I was giving up by whittling down
                            >>>> the
                            >>>> tang. From the sound of things, not much.
                            >>>>
                            >>>> --W
                            >>>>
                            >>>> Arthur Marks wrote:
                            >>>>> I've asked the same question before. Feel free to shorten that looong
                            >>>>> shank - chop it, grind it, whatever, down to an appropriate length for
                            >>>>> your use. There are intentionally short reamers made for screw machine
                            >>>>> work, but they are not commonly available. They are more of a
                            >>>>> specialty
                            >>>>> item and priced accordingly. Might also try single-point boring your
                            >>>>> hole if you can do that. It'll be far more accurate than what you're
                            >>>>> achieving now! :) Are you holding that reamer in a collet or a drill
                            >>>>> chuck? -Arthur
                            >>>> -- William Abernathy Berkeley, CA http://yourwritereditor.com
                            >>>>
                            >>>>
                            >>>>
                            >>>> _____
                            >>>>
                            >>>> No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version:
                            >>>> 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6249 - Release Date: 04/16/13
                            >>>>
                            >>
                            >>
                            >>
                            >> ------------------------------------
                            >>
                            >> Yahoo! Groups Links
                            >>
                            >>



                            ------------------------------------

                            Yahoo! Groups Links
                          • Lynn Kasdorf
                            I am in need of an R8 boring head for making holes of arbitrary sizes, and for cutting arcs, and all the other things you can do with a boring head on a mill.
                            Message 13 of 30 , Apr 24, 2013
                              I am in need of an R8 boring head for making holes of arbitrary sizes, and for cutting arcs, and all the other things you can do with a boring head on a mill. I wonder if any of you can suggest a decent head or set in the <$100 range.

                              Over the years I have accumulated  a handful of carbide tip boring bars with 1/2" shanks as well as a number of smaller ones with 3/8" shanks. A number of the boring heads I see on ebay have 3/4" holes- I guess they require 3/4 boring bars? Or do people routinely use reducing sleeves to mount smaller shaft boring bars?

                              The machines I'll be running this on are a Rockwell vertical mill and a full size Bridgeport clone.

                              An example of one I am looking at is this:
                              http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3662&category=

                              Then, I see one on ebay with these specs:
                              • Head = 3"
                              • Boring Bar Hole = 3/4"
                              • Cross Hole Diameter = 3/8"
                              • Max. Offset = 1"
                              • Thread Size = 1.5" - 18
                              • Graduations = 0.001/0-50
                              • Micrometer Lead Screw Provides 0.001" Direct Reading Accuracy and Ease of Adjusting
                              • Double Bar Holder Permits a Greater Boring Range Without an Extreme Offset Condition

                              Why is the cross hole 3/8 and the boring bar hole 3/4?

                              There is much I need to learn about these things- I guess you can mount a boring bar vertically or horizontally.
                              Thanks for any info.

                              I don't have a large budget and I am not averse to lower price asian or Indian tooleing (I have some very nice pieces that were quite affordable). Is a boring head a case where it is worth spending a bit more money on a really good one?

                              Lynn Kasdorf


                            • Guenther Paul
                              http://www.tools4cheap.net/proddetail.php?prod=3bore http://www.tools4cheap.net/proddetail.php?prod=2bore http://cdcotools.com/item.php?itemid=523 Lynn Check
                              Message 14 of 30 , Apr 24, 2013
                                 
                                Lynn
                                Check these boring heads out
                                 
                                GP



                                From: Lynn Kasdorf <kasdorfmisc@...>
                                Sent: Wed, April 24, 2013 5:51:54 PM
                                Subject: [mill_drill] suggestions for affordable boring head

                                 

                                I am in need of an R8 boring head for making holes of arbitrary sizes, and for cutting arcs, and all the other things you can do with a boring head on a mill. I wonder if any of you can suggest a decent head or set in the <$100 range.

                                Over the years I have accumulated  a handful of carbide tip boring bars with 1/2" shanks as well as a number of smaller ones with 3/8" shanks. A number of the boring heads I see on ebay have 3/4" holes- I guess they require 3/4 boring bars? Or do people routinely use reducing sleeves to mount smaller shaft boring bars?

                                The machines I'll be running this on are a Rockwell vertical mill and a full size Bridgeport clone.

                                An example of one I am looking at is this:
                                http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3662&category=

                                Then, I see one on ebay with these specs:

                                • Head = 3"
                                • Boring Bar Hole = 3/4"
                                • Cross Hole Diameter = 3/8"
                                • Max. Offset = 1"
                                • Thread Size = 1.5" - 18
                                • Graduations = 0.001/0-50
                                • Micrometer Lead Screw Provides 0.001" Direct Reading Accuracy and Ease of Adjusting
                                • Double Bar Holder Permits a Greater Boring Range Without an Extreme Offset Condition

                                Why is the cross hole 3/8 and the boring bar hole 3/4?

                                There is much I need to learn about these things- I guess you can mount a boring bar vertically or horizontally.
                                Thanks for any info.

                                I don't have a large budget and I am not averse to lower price asian or Indian tooleing (I have some very nice pieces that were quite affordable). Is a boring head a case where it is worth spending a bit more money on a really good one?

                                Lynn Kasdorf


                              • William Abernathy
                                I have a cheap boring head, and it works fine. provided the screw isn t sticky and the graduations are on straight, even if it s wildly eccentric, it s still
                                Message 15 of 30 , Apr 24, 2013
                                  I have a cheap boring head, and it works fine. provided the screw isn't sticky
                                  and the graduations are on straight, even if it's wildly eccentric, it's still
                                  going to work.

                                  Assuming you have a lathe, making a sleeve for the boring bar/socket interface
                                  should be trivial.

                                  --W

                                  Lynn Kasdorf wrote:
                                  >
                                  >
                                  > I am in need of an R8 boring head for making holes of arbitrary sizes, and for
                                  > cutting arcs, and all the other things you can do with a boring head on a mill.
                                  > I wonder if any of you can suggest a decent head or set in the <$100 range.
                                  >
                                  > Over the years I have accumulated a handful of carbide tip boring bars with
                                  > 1/2" shanks as well as a number of smaller ones with 3/8" shanks. A number of
                                  > the boring heads I see on ebay have 3/4" holes- I guess they require 3/4 boring
                                  > bars? Or do people routinely use reducing sleeves to mount smaller shaft boring
                                  > bars?
                                  >
                                  > The machines I'll be running this on are a Rockwell vertical mill and a full
                                  > size Bridgeport clone.
                                  >
                                  > An example of one I am looking at is this:
                                  > http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3662&category=
                                  >
                                  > Then, I see one on ebay with these specs:
                                  >
                                  > *
                                  > Head = 3"
                                  > *
                                  > Boring Bar Hole = 3/4"
                                  > *
                                  > Cross Hole Diameter = 3/8"
                                  > *
                                  > Max. Offset = 1"
                                  > *
                                  > Thread Size = 1.5" - 18
                                  > *
                                  > Graduations = 0.001/0-50
                                  > *
                                  > Micrometer Lead Screw Provides 0.001" Direct Reading Accuracy and Ease of
                                  > Adjusting
                                  > *
                                  > Double Bar Holder Permits a Greater Boring Range Without an Extreme Offset
                                  > Condition
                                  >
                                  > Why is the cross hole 3/8 and the boring bar hole 3/4?
                                  >
                                  > There is much I need to learn about these things- I guess you can mount a boring
                                  > bar vertically or horizontally.
                                  > Thanks for any info.
                                  >
                                  > I don't have a large budget and I am not averse to lower price asian or Indian
                                  > tooleing (I have some very nice pieces that were quite affordable). Is a boring
                                  > head a case where it is worth spending a bit more money on a really good one?
                                  >
                                  > Lynn Kasdorf
                                  >
                                  >
                                  >
                                  >
                                  >

                                  --
                                  William Abernathy
                                  Berkeley, CA
                                  http://yourwritereditor.com
                                • Edgar
                                  Here is a nice one you can make. You could scale the drawings to the size you need. You wouldn t have to make the special metric tap shown unless you want to
                                  Message 16 of 30 , Apr 24, 2013
                                    Here is a nice one you can make. You could scale the drawings to the size you need. You wouldn't have to make the special metric tap shown unless you want to work in metric feeds. An R8>J33 adapter is about $20 and the dovetail cutter is around $50 (if you don't have one). The good news is that, though you could buy a Chinese boring head for $75, you would have the dovetail cutter to make the quick change lathe tool post also shown on this web site...plus the satisfaction of having a tool that you would be proud to put your name on.
                                    http://homepage3.nifty.com/amigos/boring_head/boring_head-e.htm

                                    Orlin in SC/USA


                                    >
                                    > --W
                                    >
                                    > Lynn Kasdorf wrote:
                                    > >
                                    > >
                                    > > I am in need of an R8 boring head for making holes of arbitrary sizes, and for
                                    > > cutting arcs, and all the other things you can do with a boring head on a mill.
                                    > > I wonder if any of you can suggest a decent head or set in the <$100 range.
                                    > >
                                    > > Over the years I have accumulated a handful of carbide tip boring bars with
                                    > > 1/2" shanks as well as a number of smaller ones with 3/8" shanks. A number of
                                    > > the boring heads I see on ebay have 3/4" holes- I guess they require 3/4 boring
                                    > > bars? Or do people routinely use reducing sleeves to mount smaller shaft boring
                                    > > bars?
                                    > >
                                    > > The machines I'll be running this on are a Rockwell vertical mill and a full
                                    > > size Bridgeport clone.
                                    > >
                                    > > An example of one I am looking at is this:
                                    > > http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3662&category=
                                    > >
                                    > > Then, I see one on ebay with these specs:
                                    > >
                                    > > *
                                    > > Head = 3"
                                    > > *
                                    > > Boring Bar Hole = 3/4"
                                    > > *
                                    > > Cross Hole Diameter = 3/8"
                                    > > *
                                    > > Max. Offset = 1"
                                    > > *
                                    > > Thread Size = 1.5" - 18
                                    > > *
                                    > > Graduations = 0.001/0-50
                                    > > *
                                    > > Micrometer Lead Screw Provides 0.001" Direct Reading Accuracy and Ease of
                                    > > Adjusting
                                    > > *
                                    > > Double Bar Holder Permits a Greater Boring Range Without an Extreme Offset
                                    > > Condition
                                    > >
                                    > > Why is the cross hole 3/8 and the boring bar hole 3/4?
                                    > >
                                    > > There is much I need to learn about these things- I guess you can mount a boring
                                    > > bar vertically or horizontally.
                                    > > Thanks for any info.
                                    > >
                                    > > I don't have a large budget and I am not averse to lower price asian or Indian
                                    > > tooleing (I have some very nice pieces that were quite affordable). Is a boring
                                    > > head a case where it is worth spending a bit more money on a really good one?
                                    > >
                                    > > Lynn Kasdorf
                                    > >
                                    > >
                                    > >
                                    > >
                                    > >
                                    >
                                    > --
                                    > William Abernathy
                                    > Berkeley, CA
                                    > http://yourwritereditor.com
                                    >
                                  • Michael Parrish
                                    Lynn, I have had good luck with these guys: http://www.jtsmach.com/jtswebshop/Workholding/WH252.asp#two . They used to have 10% Tuesdays. Get on the email
                                    Message 17 of 30 , Apr 24, 2013
                                      Lynn, I have had good luck with these guys: http://www.jtsmach.com/jtswebshop/Workholding/WH252.asp#two . They used to have 10% Tuesdays. Get on the email list, they actually have the occasional good deal. I have bought dozens of the 6" electronic calipers, to spread around the shops where I have worked (usually ~$9.95). The printed sale flyer has the best deals, I have gotten several digital linear slides from them (poor man's DRO). The website does not have the best user interface, but it works. Good hunting, Mike

                                      --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, William Abernathy <william@...> wrote:
                                      >
                                      > I have a cheap boring head, and it works fine. provided the screw isn't sticky
                                      > and the graduations are on straight, even if it's wildly eccentric, it's still
                                      > going to work.
                                      >
                                      > Assuming you have a lathe, making a sleeve for the boring bar/socket interface
                                      > should be trivial.
                                      >
                                      > --W
                                      >
                                      > Lynn Kasdorf wrote:
                                      > >
                                      > >
                                      > > I am in need of an R8 boring head for making holes of arbitrary sizes, and for
                                      > > cutting arcs, and all the other things you can do with a boring head on a mill.
                                      > > I wonder if any of you can suggest a decent head or set in the <$100 range.
                                      > >
                                      > > Over the years I have accumulated a handful of carbide tip boring bars with
                                      > > 1/2" shanks as well as a number of smaller ones with 3/8" shanks. A number of
                                      > > the boring heads I see on ebay have 3/4" holes- I guess they require 3/4 boring
                                      > > bars? Or do people routinely use reducing sleeves to mount smaller shaft boring
                                      > > bars?
                                      > >
                                      > > The machines I'll be running this on are a Rockwell vertical mill and a full
                                      > > size Bridgeport clone.
                                      > >
                                      > > An example of one I am looking at is this:
                                      > > http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3662&category=
                                      > >
                                      > > Then, I see one on ebay with these specs:
                                      > >
                                      > > *
                                      > > Head = 3"
                                      > > *
                                      > > Boring Bar Hole = 3/4"
                                      > > *
                                      > > Cross Hole Diameter = 3/8"
                                      > > *
                                      > > Max. Offset = 1"
                                      > > *
                                      > > Thread Size = 1.5" - 18
                                      > > *
                                      > > Graduations = 0.001/0-50
                                      > > *
                                      > > Micrometer Lead Screw Provides 0.001" Direct Reading Accuracy and Ease of
                                      > > Adjusting
                                      > > *
                                      > > Double Bar Holder Permits a Greater Boring Range Without an Extreme Offset
                                      > > Condition
                                      > >
                                      > > Why is the cross hole 3/8 and the boring bar hole 3/4?
                                      > >
                                      > > There is much I need to learn about these things- I guess you can mount a boring
                                      > > bar vertically or horizontally.
                                      > > Thanks for any info.
                                      > >
                                      > > I don't have a large budget and I am not averse to lower price asian or Indian
                                      > > tooleing (I have some very nice pieces that were quite affordable). Is a boring
                                      > > head a case where it is worth spending a bit more money on a really good one?
                                      > >
                                      > > Lynn Kasdorf
                                      > >
                                      > >
                                      > >
                                      > >
                                      > >
                                      >
                                      > --
                                      > William Abernathy
                                      > Berkeley, CA
                                      > http://yourwritereditor.com
                                      >
                                    • Ramdog
                                      What you show from Little Machine Shop works fine for 99% of the jobs you need a boring head for. I think in the 30+ years of toolmaking and tool & die work, I
                                      Message 18 of 30 , Apr 25, 2013
                                        What you show from Little Machine Shop works fine for 99% of the jobs you need a boring head for. I think in the 30+ years of toolmaking and tool & die work, I may have used one that used the 3/4" boring bars only once or twice, the rest of the time, it was either one that used the 1/2" boring bars, or a few years back, I bought a smaller boring head that uses the 3/8" boring bars.

                                        What type of boring head are you using at the present? If things are sticking, maybe you have one of the lock screws dragging more than the others. I only snug them just a little and keep the screw tension for the adjustment screw just a little snug but not to the point that it sticks and then jumps. If it does, I make sure to back it off quite a ways and come back up to my mark so there is no chance of slop.

                                        Kevin

                                        --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, William Abernathy <william@...> wrote:
                                        >
                                        > I have a cheap boring head, and it works fine. provided the screw isn't sticky
                                        > and the graduations are on straight, even if it's wildly eccentric, it's still
                                        > going to work.
                                        >
                                        > Assuming you have a lathe, making a sleeve for the boring bar/socket interface
                                        > should be trivial.
                                        >
                                        > --W
                                        >
                                        > Lynn Kasdorf wrote:
                                        > >
                                        > >
                                        > > I am in need of an R8 boring head for making holes of arbitrary sizes, and for
                                        > > cutting arcs, and all the other things you can do with a boring head on a mill.
                                        > > I wonder if any of you can suggest a decent head or set in the <$100 range.
                                        > >
                                        > > Over the years I have accumulated a handful of carbide tip boring bars with
                                        > > 1/2" shanks as well as a number of smaller ones with 3/8" shanks. A number of
                                        > > the boring heads I see on ebay have 3/4" holes- I guess they require 3/4 boring
                                        > > bars? Or do people routinely use reducing sleeves to mount smaller shaft boring
                                        > > bars?
                                        > >
                                        > > The machines I'll be running this on are a Rockwell vertical mill and a full
                                        > > size Bridgeport clone.
                                        > >
                                        > > An example of one I am looking at is this:
                                        > > http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3662&category=
                                        > >
                                        > > Then, I see one on ebay with these specs:
                                        > >
                                        > > *
                                        > > Head = 3"
                                        > > *
                                        > > Boring Bar Hole = 3/4"
                                        > > *
                                        > > Cross Hole Diameter = 3/8"
                                        > > *
                                        > > Max. Offset = 1"
                                        > > *
                                        > > Thread Size = 1.5" - 18
                                        > > *
                                        > > Graduations = 0.001/0-50
                                        > > *
                                        > > Micrometer Lead Screw Provides 0.001" Direct Reading Accuracy and Ease of
                                        > > Adjusting
                                        > > *
                                        > > Double Bar Holder Permits a Greater Boring Range Without an Extreme Offset
                                        > > Condition
                                        > >
                                        > > Why is the cross hole 3/8 and the boring bar hole 3/4?
                                        > >
                                        > > There is much I need to learn about these things- I guess you can mount a boring
                                        > > bar vertically or horizontally.
                                        > > Thanks for any info.
                                        > >
                                        > > I don't have a large budget and I am not averse to lower price asian or Indian
                                        > > tooleing (I have some very nice pieces that were quite affordable). Is a boring
                                        > > head a case where it is worth spending a bit more money on a really good one?
                                        > >
                                        > > Lynn Kasdorf
                                        > >
                                        > >
                                        > >
                                        > >
                                        > >
                                        >
                                        > --
                                        > William Abernathy
                                        > Berkeley, CA
                                        > http://yourwritereditor.com
                                        >
                                      • Lynn Kasdorf
                                        I don t have a boring head at all currently. I have an assortment of 1/2 , 3/8 , and one or two 3/4 shank boring bars that I picked up over the years at
                                        Message 19 of 30 , Apr 25, 2013
                                          I don't have a boring head at all currently. I have an assortment of 1/2", 3/8", and one or two 3/4" shank boring bars that I picked up over the years at auctions, but no boring head to mount them in. I am building a CNC machine currently and I am finding a need to bore metric size holes in some pieces.

                                          Although I have had a mill and lathe or some sort since around 2000, I am just now getting more serious about machining and building more sophisticated stuff. I finally have a DRO on my Rockwell mill, for example!

                                          LK

                                          On 4/25/2013 9:58 AM, Ramdog wrote:
                                           

                                          What you show from Little Machine Shop works fine for 99% of the jobs you need a boring head for. I think in the 30+ years of toolmaking and tool & die work, I may have used one that used the 3/4" boring bars only once or twice, the rest of the time, it was either one that used the 1/2" boring bars, or a few years back, I bought a smaller boring head that uses the 3/8" boring bars.

                                          What type of boring head are you using at the present? If things are sticking, maybe you have one of the lock screws dragging more than the others. I only snug them just a little and keep the screw tension for the adjustment screw just a little snug but not to the point that it sticks and then jumps. If it does, I make sure to back it off quite a ways and come back up to my mark so there is no chance of slop.

                                          Kevin


                                        • Ramdog
                                          My mistake, I thought you had a boring head and were looking for another smaller one. The one you show would work fine for almost anything you are boring. If
                                          Message 20 of 30 , Apr 25, 2013
                                            My mistake, I thought you had a boring head and were looking for another smaller one. The one you show would work fine for almost anything you are boring. If the hole comes out to be a large diameter, you can put your boring bar in the side of the holder and bore that way. Just make sure you have clearance underneath. I've watched a few guys wreck them by not paying attention what was on the other side of the hole. Lol!!!

                                            --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, Lynn Kasdorf <kasdorfmisc@...> wrote:
                                            >
                                            > I don't have a boring head at all currently. I have an assortment of
                                            > 1/2", 3/8", and one or two 3/4" shank boring bars that I picked up over
                                            > the years at auctions, but no boring head to mount them in. I am
                                            > building a CNC machine currently and I am finding a need to bore metric
                                            > size holes in some pieces.
                                            >
                                            > Although I have had a mill and lathe or some sort since around 2000, I
                                            > am just now getting more serious about machining and building more
                                            > sophisticated stuff. I finally have a DRO on my Rockwell mill, for example!
                                            >
                                            > LK
                                            >
                                            > On 4/25/2013 9:58 AM, Ramdog wrote:
                                            > >
                                            > > What you show from Little Machine Shop works fine for 99% of the jobs
                                            > > you need a boring head for. I think in the 30+ years of toolmaking and
                                            > > tool & die work, I may have used one that used the 3/4" boring bars
                                            > > only once or twice, the rest of the time, it was either one that used
                                            > > the 1/2" boring bars, or a few years back, I bought a smaller boring
                                            > > head that uses the 3/8" boring bars.
                                            > >
                                            > > What type of boring head are you using at the present? If things are
                                            > > sticking, maybe you have one of the lock screws dragging more than the
                                            > > others. I only snug them just a little and keep the screw tension for
                                            > > the adjustment screw just a little snug but not to the point that it
                                            > > sticks and then jumps. If it does, I make sure to back it off quite a
                                            > > ways and come back up to my mark so there is no chance of slop.
                                            > >
                                            > > Kevin
                                            > >
                                            >
                                          • W. Smith
                                            I m with you Bill, boring the seat would be my first choice. Another Bill
                                            Message 21 of 30 , Apr 25, 2013
                                              I'm with you Bill, boring the seat would be my first choice.

                                              Another "Bill"

                                              On 4/22/2013 12:36 PM, Bill wrote:
                                              > Why would you not use a boring head?
                                              >
                                              >
                                              >
                                              > Bill
                                              >
                                            • Bill
                                              Here Here!!!! The Bills have spoken! The other Bill J From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of W. Smith Sent:
                                              Message 22 of 30 , Apr 25, 2013

                                                Here Here!!!!

                                                 

                                                The Bills have spoken!

                                                 

                                                The other Bill

                                                J

                                                 

                                                From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of W. Smith
                                                Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2013 11:33 AM
                                                To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                                                Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Re: Chucking reamers

                                                 

                                                 

                                                I'm with you Bill, boring the seat would be my first choice.

                                                Another "Bill"

                                                On 4/22/2013 12:36 PM, Bill wrote:
                                                > Why would you not use a boring head?
                                                >
                                                >
                                                >
                                                > Bill
                                                >


                                                No virus found in this message.
                                                Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
                                                Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6269 - Release Date: 04/23/13

                                              • FocusKnobs
                                                That s fine - as long as no one *sends* us the Bill... From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bill Sent: Thursday,
                                                Message 23 of 30 , Apr 25, 2013

                                                  That’s fine – as long as no one *sends* us the Bill…

                                                   

                                                  From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bill
                                                  Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2013 11:37 AM
                                                  To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                                                  Subject: RE: [mill_drill] Re: Chucking reamers

                                                   




                                                  Here Here!!!!

                                                   

                                                  The Bills have spoken!

                                                   

                                                  The other Bill

                                                  J

                                                   

                                                  From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of W. Smith
                                                  Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2013 11:33 AM
                                                  To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                                                  Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Re: Chucking reamers

                                                   

                                                   

                                                  I'm with you Bill, boring the seat would be my first choice.

                                                  Another "Bill"

                                                  On 4/22/2013 12:36 PM, Bill wrote:
                                                  > Why would you not use a boring head?
                                                  >
                                                  >
                                                  >
                                                  > Bill
                                                  >

                                                   


                                                  No virus found in this message.
                                                  Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
                                                  Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6269 - Release Date: 04/23/13




                                                Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.