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Re: [mill_drill] Chucking reamers

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  • William Abernathy
    Owing to the vertical-distance mambo we re all used to, I m holding a drill bit in a drill chuck, then pulling the chuck and using an ER32 collet to hold the
    Message 1 of 30 , Apr 22, 2013
      Owing to the vertical-distance mambo we're all used to, I'm holding a drill bit
      in a drill chuck, then pulling the chuck and using an ER32 collet to hold the
      reamer. As for why I don't bore it, it's a small hole and I'll have to dig
      around to see if I have any boring bars that A) fit my boring head and B) are
      smaller than a half-inch. I might end up going that route.

      Mostly, I just wanted to know what I was giving up by whittling down the tang.
      From the sound of things, not much.

      --W



      Arthur Marks wrote:
      > I've asked the same question before. Feel free to shorten that looong
      > shank - chop it, grind it, whatever, down to an appropriate length for
      > your use. There are intentionally short reamers made for screw
      > machine work, but they are not commonly available. They are more of a
      > specialty item and priced accordingly. Might also try single-point
      > boring your hole if you can do that. It'll be far more accurate than
      > what you're achieving now! :) Are you holding that reamer in a
      > collet or a drill chuck? -Arthur


      --
      William Abernathy
      Berkeley, CA
      http://yourwritereditor.com
    • Bill
      Ah….OK….can’t help you much with the reamers. I only use ‘em for holes that I need a bit more accurate than just a drill. For bearings, bushings, etc,
      Message 2 of 30 , Apr 22, 2013

        Ah….OK….can’t help you much with the reamers. I only use ‘em for holes that I need a bit more accurate than just a drill.

        For bearings, bushings, etc, where I need to hold a tight tolerance, I always bore.

         

        I have one of those cheapie brazed carbide boring bar sets from Enco….the smallest ones will bore down to 5/16”. I don’t use ‘em much. All require a regrind to get ‘em to cut to begin with.  

        For smaller bores, I generally use HSS. Both my 2” boring heads take ½” diameter tools, so I keep ½” diameter HSS rounds laying around, and grind ‘em to suit the job.

        I have used an old drill bit or two, with a little creative grinding, to get me out of a pinch. Be aware the shanks on HSS drill bits are not hardened.

         

        Bill

         

         

         

        From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of William Abernathy
        Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 10:09 AM
        To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
        Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Chucking reamers

         

         

        Owing to the vertical-distance mambo we're all used to, I'm holding a drill bit
        in a drill chuck, then pulling the chuck and using an ER32 collet to hold the
        reamer. As for why I don't bore it, it's a small hole and I'll have to dig
        around to see if I have any boring bars that A) fit my boring head and B) are
        smaller than a half-inch. I might end up going that route.

        Mostly, I just wanted to know what I was giving up by whittling down the tang.
        From the sound of things, not much.

        --W

        Arthur Marks wrote:

        > I've asked the same question before. Feel free to shorten that looong
        > shank - chop it, grind it, whatever, down to an appropriate length for
        > your use. There are intentionally short reamers made for screw
        > machine work, but they are not commonly available. They are more of a
        > specialty item and priced accordingly. Might also try single-point
        > boring your hole if you can do that. It'll be far more accurate than
        > what you're achieving now! :) Are you holding that reamer in a
        > collet or a drill chuck? -Arthur

        --
        William Abernathy
        Berkeley, CA
        http://yourwritereditor.com


        No virus found in this message.
        Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
        Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6249 - Release Date: 04/16/13

      • Ramdog
        Instead of ordering straight flute chucking reamers , order drill length chucking reamer . Problem solved. They re not hard to get, you re just ordering the
        Message 3 of 30 , Apr 22, 2013
          Instead of ordering "straight flute chucking reamers", order "drill length chucking reamer". Problem solved. They're not hard to get, you're just ordering the wrong ones. As far as taking the drill and chuck out and using an ER32 collet to hold your reamer for accuracy, there really is no need to do that as the reamer will follow the drilled hole anyways. I've rebuilt many a die components and had to use a drill press swapping drills and reamers and never had one problem in all the years I have done it.

          --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, Bill <bill_1955@...> wrote:
          >
          > Ah….OK….can't help you much with the reamers. I only use `em for holes that
          > I need a bit more accurate than just a drill.
          >
          > For bearings, bushings, etc, where I need to hold a tight tolerance, I
          > always bore.
          >
          >
          >
          > I have one of those cheapie brazed carbide boring bar sets from Enco….the
          > smallest ones will bore down to 5/16". I don't use `em much. All require a
          > regrind to get `em to cut to begin with.
          >
          > For smaller bores, I generally use HSS. Both my 2" boring heads take ½"
          > diameter tools, so I keep ½" diameter HSS rounds laying around, and grind
          > `em to suit the job.
          >
          > I have used an old drill bit or two, with a little creative grinding, to get
          > me out of a pinch. Be aware the shanks on HSS drill bits are not hardened.
          >
          >
          >
          > Bill
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          > From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On
          > Behalf Of William Abernathy
          > Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 10:09 AM
          > To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
          > Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Chucking reamers
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          > Owing to the vertical-distance mambo we're all used to, I'm holding a drill
          > bit
          > in a drill chuck, then pulling the chuck and using an ER32 collet to hold
          > the
          > reamer. As for why I don't bore it, it's a small hole and I'll have to dig
          > around to see if I have any boring bars that A) fit my boring head and B)
          > are
          > smaller than a half-inch. I might end up going that route.
          >
          > Mostly, I just wanted to know what I was giving up by whittling down the
          > tang.
          > From the sound of things, not much.
          >
          > --W
          >
          > Arthur Marks wrote:
          > > I've asked the same question before. Feel free to shorten that looong
          > > shank - chop it, grind it, whatever, down to an appropriate length for
          > > your use. There are intentionally short reamers made for screw
          > > machine work, but they are not commonly available. They are more of a
          > > specialty item and priced accordingly. Might also try single-point
          > > boring your hole if you can do that. It'll be far more accurate than
          > > what you're achieving now! :) Are you holding that reamer in a
          > > collet or a drill chuck? -Arthur
          >
          > --
          > William Abernathy
          > Berkeley, CA
          > http://yourwritereditor.com
          >
          >
          >
          > _____
          >
          > No virus found in this message.
          > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
          > Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6249 - Release Date: 04/16/13
          >
        • Ramdog
          One other thing...if you have a .4995 reamer and are reaming at .511, either your reamer is really dull, the head in relationship to the table is out of tram,
          Message 4 of 30 , Apr 22, 2013
            One other thing...if you have a .4995 reamer and are reaming at .511, either your reamer is really dull, the head in relationship to the table is out of tram, or you have a burr on the end of the reamer that is causing it to ream oversize. Are you using a lubricant on the hole when you are reaming? Also what about the speeds. You could be running too fast causing it to chatter somewhat. What kind of material are you working with

            --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Ramdog" <kweimer@...> wrote:
            >
            >
            > Instead of ordering "straight flute chucking reamers", order "drill length chucking reamer". Problem solved. They're not hard to get, you're just ordering the wrong ones. As far as taking the drill and chuck out and using an ER32 collet to hold your reamer for accuracy, there really is no need to do that as the reamer will follow the drilled hole anyways. I've rebuilt many a die components and had to use a drill press swapping drills and reamers and never had one problem in all the years I have done it.
            >
            > --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, Bill <bill_1955@> wrote:
            > >
            > > Ah….OK….can't help you much with the reamers. I only use `em for holes that
            > > I need a bit more accurate than just a drill.
            > >
            > > For bearings, bushings, etc, where I need to hold a tight tolerance, I
            > > always bore.
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > > I have one of those cheapie brazed carbide boring bar sets from Enco….the
            > > smallest ones will bore down to 5/16". I don't use `em much. All require a
            > > regrind to get `em to cut to begin with.
            > >
            > > For smaller bores, I generally use HSS. Both my 2" boring heads take ½"
            > > diameter tools, so I keep ½" diameter HSS rounds laying around, and grind
            > > `em to suit the job.
            > >
            > > I have used an old drill bit or two, with a little creative grinding, to get
            > > me out of a pinch. Be aware the shanks on HSS drill bits are not hardened.
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > > Bill
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > > From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On
            > > Behalf Of William Abernathy
            > > Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 10:09 AM
            > > To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
            > > Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Chucking reamers
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > > Owing to the vertical-distance mambo we're all used to, I'm holding a drill
            > > bit
            > > in a drill chuck, then pulling the chuck and using an ER32 collet to hold
            > > the
            > > reamer. As for why I don't bore it, it's a small hole and I'll have to dig
            > > around to see if I have any boring bars that A) fit my boring head and B)
            > > are
            > > smaller than a half-inch. I might end up going that route.
            > >
            > > Mostly, I just wanted to know what I was giving up by whittling down the
            > > tang.
            > > From the sound of things, not much.
            > >
            > > --W
            > >
            > > Arthur Marks wrote:
            > > > I've asked the same question before. Feel free to shorten that looong
            > > > shank - chop it, grind it, whatever, down to an appropriate length for
            > > > your use. There are intentionally short reamers made for screw
            > > > machine work, but they are not commonly available. They are more of a
            > > > specialty item and priced accordingly. Might also try single-point
            > > > boring your hole if you can do that. It'll be far more accurate than
            > > > what you're achieving now! :) Are you holding that reamer in a
            > > > collet or a drill chuck? -Arthur
            > >
            > > --
            > > William Abernathy
            > > Berkeley, CA
            > > http://yourwritereditor.com
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > > _____
            > >
            > > No virus found in this message.
            > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
            > > Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6249 - Release Date: 04/16/13
            > >
            >
          • William Abernathy
            I m confident it s the setup, not the tool. Tried it with a .500 reamer, got awful results, fixed things up a bit (lowered the speed, added WD-40 for lube --
            Message 5 of 30 , Apr 22, 2013
              I'm confident it's the setup, not the tool. Tried it with a .500 reamer, got
              awful results, fixed things up a bit (lowered the speed, added WD-40 for lube --
              yes, it's 6061 aluminum), made sure everything was tight, and massaged out about
              .010 of slop, but it's still an arms-length exchange, with the head cranked high
              and a reamer waving around out in space (and yes, I drilled a pilot hole as well...)

              --W

              Ramdog wrote:
              > One other thing...if you have a .4995 reamer and are reaming at .511, either
              > your reamer is really dull, the head in relationship to the table is out of
              > tram, or you have a burr on the end of the reamer that is causing it to ream
              > oversize. Are you using a lubricant on the hole when you are reaming? Also
              > what about the speeds. You could be running too fast causing it to chatter
              > somewhat. What kind of material are you working with
              >
              > --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Ramdog" <kweimer@...> wrote:
              >>
              >>
              >> Instead of ordering "straight flute chucking reamers", order "drill length
              >> chucking reamer". Problem solved. They're not hard to get, you're just
              >> ordering the wrong ones. As far as taking the drill and chuck out and using
              >> an ER32 collet to hold your reamer for accuracy, there really is no need to
              >> do that as the reamer will follow the drilled hole anyways. I've rebuilt
              >> many a die components and had to use a drill press swapping drills and
              >> reamers and never had one problem in all the years I have done it.
              >>
              >> --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, Bill <bill_1955@> wrote:
              >>>
              >>> Ah….OK….can't help you much with the reamers. I only use `em for holes
              >>> that I need a bit more accurate than just a drill.
              >>>
              >>> For bearings, bushings, etc, where I need to hold a tight tolerance, I
              >>> always bore.
              >>>
              >>>
              >>>
              >>> I have one of those cheapie brazed carbide boring bar sets from
              >>> Enco….the smallest ones will bore down to 5/16". I don't use `em much.
              >>> All require a regrind to get `em to cut to begin with.
              >>>
              >>> For smaller bores, I generally use HSS. Both my 2" boring heads take ½"
              >>> diameter tools, so I keep ½" diameter HSS rounds laying around, and
              >>> grind `em to suit the job.
              >>>
              >>> I have used an old drill bit or two, with a little creative grinding, to
              >>> get me out of a pinch. Be aware the shanks on HSS drill bits are not
              >>> hardened.
              >>>
              >>>
              >>>
              >>> Bill
              >>>
              >>>
              >>>
              >>>
              >>>
              >>>
              >>>
              >>> From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On
              >>> Behalf Of William Abernathy Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 10:09 AM To:
              >>> mill_drill@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Chucking reamers
              >>>
              >>>
              >>>
              >>>
              >>>
              >>> Owing to the vertical-distance mambo we're all used to, I'm holding a
              >>> drill bit in a drill chuck, then pulling the chuck and using an ER32
              >>> collet to hold the reamer. As for why I don't bore it, it's a small hole
              >>> and I'll have to dig around to see if I have any boring bars that A) fit
              >>> my boring head and B) are smaller than a half-inch. I might end up going
              >>> that route.
              >>>
              >>> Mostly, I just wanted to know what I was giving up by whittling down the
              >>> tang. From the sound of things, not much.
              >>>
              >>> --W
              >>>
              >>> Arthur Marks wrote:
              >>>> I've asked the same question before. Feel free to shorten that looong
              >>>> shank - chop it, grind it, whatever, down to an appropriate length for
              >>>> your use. There are intentionally short reamers made for screw machine
              >>>> work, but they are not commonly available. They are more of a specialty
              >>>> item and priced accordingly. Might also try single-point boring your
              >>>> hole if you can do that. It'll be far more accurate than what you're
              >>>> achieving now! :) Are you holding that reamer in a collet or a drill
              >>>> chuck? -Arthur
              >>>
              >>> -- William Abernathy Berkeley, CA http://yourwritereditor.com
              >>>
              >>>
              >>>
              >>> _____
              >>>
              >>> No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version:
              >>> 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6249 - Release Date: 04/16/13
              >>>
              >>
              >
              >
              >
              >
              > ------------------------------------
              >
              > Yahoo! Groups Links
              >
              >

              --
              William Abernathy
              Berkeley, CA
              http://yourwritereditor.com
            • Andy M
              GDay William, The purpose of the long shank on a reamer is to allow the reamer to flex and follow the hole as drilled. I m sure you re aware that drill bits
              Message 6 of 30 , Apr 22, 2013
                GDay William,

                The purpose of the long shank on a reamer is to allow the reamer to flex
                and follow the hole as drilled.

                I'm sure you're aware that drill bits rarely cut perfect holes and the
                reamer is the best tool to use to correct those errant drilled holes.

                Shortening a reamer seriously prevents the reamer from doing it's job,
                so it is not recommended that you do so.

                Depending on the desired hole size, you should drill a hole that is no
                more than approx. 0.010 inches smaller than your reamer size. EG: For a
                0.250 reamer, your pilot hole should be approx. 0.240 in diameter.

                Taking too big a cut with a reamer will cause the reamer to wander,
                creating an oversized hole in the process. I think you may have
                discovered that already ;)

                Seats for bearings are best cut with a boring bar in the lathe or a
                boring head in the mill if the part is not cylindrical. You will get
                much better results that way and you will have much more control over
                the process.

                HTH

                --
                Regards
                Andy M



                William Abernathy wrote:
                > Been trying to cut a seat for a bearing. Because the reamer is so damned
                > long
                > (and because, on the mill-drill, that means cranking the head way up as
                > well...)
                > my 0.4995 reamer is cutting a 0.511 hole. Not a press fit, and getting
                > quite
                > frustrating!
                >
                > I can approach this in two ways: 1) saw off about four inches of reamer
                > tang, or
                > 2) plunge in with a center-cutting end mill.
                >
                > Before I go chopping off my reamers, I'd like to know: why do they make
                > chucking
                > reamers with such long (dang) tangs? It looks to really amplify any
                > inaccuracies
                > in the setup, and I can't really see any benefit to it. Do people use
                > them for
                > line boring or something?
                >
                > --W
                >
                > --
                > William Abernathy
                > Berkeley, CA
                > http://yourwritereditor.com
              • Stan Stocker
                Hi Folks, You need a floating reamer holder to allow the reamer to follow the hole being sized rather than the axis of the machine. Cheers, Stan
                Message 7 of 30 , Apr 23, 2013
                  Hi Folks,

                  You need a floating reamer holder to allow the reamer to follow the hole
                  being sized rather than the axis of the machine.

                  Cheers,
                  Stan

                  On 04/22/2013 01:09 PM, William Abernathy wrote:
                  > Owing to the vertical-distance mambo we're all used to, I'm holding a drill bit
                  > in a drill chuck, then pulling the chuck and using an ER32 collet to hold the
                  > reamer. As for why I don't bore it, it's a small hole and I'll have to dig
                  > around to see if I have any boring bars that A) fit my boring head and B) are
                  > smaller than a half-inch. I might end up going that route.
                  >
                  > Mostly, I just wanted to know what I was giving up by whittling down the tang.
                  > From the sound of things, not much.
                  >
                  > --W
                • Guenther Paul
                  I don t understand the problems with the reamers. You drill the hole .015 smaller and ream it slow speed use a good cutting fluid and not WD-40. Engine oil
                  Message 8 of 30 , Apr 23, 2013
                    I don't understand the problems with the reamers. You drill the hole .015 smaller and ream it slow speed use a good cutting fluid and not WD-40. Engine oil would work better then WD-40. A self aligning reamer holder is not needed.
                    If the reamer is used on high speed it will give one a over size hole 
                     
                    GP



                    From: Stan Stocker <skstocker@...>
                    To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                    Sent: Tue, April 23, 2013 8:51:49 AM
                    Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Chucking reamers

                     

                    Hi Folks,

                    You need a floating reamer holder to allow the reamer to follow the hole
                    being sized rather than the axis of the machine.

                    Cheers,
                    Stan

                    On 04/22/2013 01:09 PM, William Abernathy wrote:
                    > Owing to the vertical-distance mambo we're all used to, I'm holding a drill bit
                    > in a drill chuck, then pulling the chuck and using an ER32 collet to hold the
                    > reamer. As for why I don't bore it, it's a small hole and I'll have to dig
                    > around to see if I have any boring bars that A) fit my boring head and B) are
                    > smaller than a half-inch. I might end up going that route.
                    >
                    > Mostly, I just wanted to know what I was giving up by whittling down the tang.
                    > From the sound of things, not much.
                    >
                    > --W

                    Reply via web postReply to sender Reply to group Start a New TopicMessages in this topic (12)
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                  • Guenther Paul
                    K In my opinion all WD-40 id good for is to start a engine. Its bean marketed like crazy but no user will ever read the can. WD-40 is not a machining fluid and
                    Message 9 of 30 , Apr 23, 2013
                      K
                      In my opinion all WD-40 id good for is to start a engine. Its bean marketed like crazy but no user will ever read the can. WD-40 is not a machining fluid and never will be
                       
                      GP



                      From: Kevin Weimer <kweimer@...>
                      To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                      Sent: Tue, April 23, 2013 9:15:35 AM
                      Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Re: Chucking reamers

                      One other thing I just thought of, how much are you trying to ream? You
                      don't want your drill to be any smaller than one size less as the reamer
                      with fractional drills. So if you are reaming a .4995 hole, you want your
                      drill size to be no less than 31/64 or .484. And if the reamer is super
                      long, cut the shank off down to the same length as your drills. For one, I
                      like to keep my reamers in a drill case and nothing worse than having a few
                      to long to shut the lid. Anyways, just wanted to toss that idea out there to
                      eliminate some possibilities. One other thing too, swap out the WD-40 for
                      some oil. I always used Vactra because that's what we had at the shop, but
                      at home, any 10W-30 or similar will work. WD-40, although good stuff, just
                      doesn't seem to work as well for reaming, or at least to me it doesn't. The
                      same with tapping, I like a good thick oil so the chips will stick in the
                      flute reliefs. That way you can back out the tap and bring the chips with
                      you.

                      You say that the aluminum is 6061, but what hardness is it? I wouldn't think
                      that it would be 6061-0, but I have grabbed aluminum off of the shelf at
                      work before that someone had used to silver solder some parts, then stuck it
                      back on the shelf. It machined and drilled entirely different in the hot
                      spot of the block.

                      K

                      -----Original Message-----
                      From: William Abernathy
                      Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 9:21 PM
                      To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                      Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Re: Chucking reamers

                      I'm confident it's the setup, not the tool. Tried it with a .500 reamer, got
                      awful results, fixed things up a bit (lowered the speed, added WD-40 for
                      lube --
                      yes, it's 6061 aluminum), made sure everything was tight, and massaged out
                      about
                      .010 of slop, but it's still an arms-length exchange, with the head cranked
                      high
                      and a reamer waving around out in space (and yes, I drilled a pilot hole as
                      well...)

                      --W

                      Ramdog wrote:
                      > One other thing...if you have a .4995 reamer and are reaming at .511,
                      > either
                      > your reamer is really dull, the head in relationship to the table is out
                      > of
                      > tram, or you have a burr on the end of the reamer that is causing it to
                      > ream
                      > oversize. Are you using a lubricant on the hole when you are reaming?
                      Also
                      > what about the speeds. You could be running too fast causing it to chatter
                      > somewhat. What kind of material are you working with
                      >
                      > --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Ramdog" <kweimer@...> wrote:
                      >>
                      >>
                      >> Instead of ordering "straight flute chucking reamers", order "drill
                      >> length
                      >> chucking reamer". Problem solved. They're not hard to get, you're just
                      >> ordering the wrong ones. As far as taking the drill and chuck out and
                      >> using
                      >> an ER32 collet to hold your reamer for accuracy, there really is no need
                      >> to
                      >> do that as the reamer will follow the drilled hole anyways. I've rebuilt
                      >> many a die components and had to use a drill press swapping drills and
                      >> reamers and never had one problem in all the years
                      I have done it.
                      >>
                      >> --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, Bill <bill_1955@> wrote:
                      >>>
                      >>> Ah….OK….can't help you much with the reamers. I only use `em for holes
                      >>> that I need a bit more accurate than just a drill.
                      >>>
                      >>> For bearings, bushings, etc, where I need to hold a tight tolerance, I
                      >>> always bore.
                      >>>
                      >>>
                      >>>
                      >>> I have one of those cheapie brazed carbide boring bar sets from
                      >>> Enco….the smallest ones will bore down to 5/16". I don't use `em much.
                      >>> All require a regrind to get `em to cut to begin with.
                      >>>
                      >>> For smaller bores, I generally use HSS. Both my 2" boring heads take ½"
                      >>> diameter tools, so I keep ½" diameter HSS rounds
                      laying around, and
                      >>> grind `em to suit the job.
                      >>>
                      >>> I have used an old drill bit or two, with a little creative grinding, to
                      >>> get me out of a pinch. Be aware the shanks on HSS drill bits are not
                      >>> hardened.
                      >>>
                      >>>
                      >>>
                      >>> Bill
                      >>>
                      >>>
                      >>>
                      >>>
                      >>>
                      >>>
                      >>>
                      >>> From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On
                      >>> Behalf Of William Abernathy Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 10:09 AM To:
                      >>> mill_drill@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re:
                      [mill_drill] Chucking reamers
                      >>>
                      >>>
                      >>>
                      >>>
                      >>>
                      >>> Owing to the vertical-distance mambo we're all used to, I'm holding a
                      >>> drill bit in a drill chuck, then pulling the chuck and using an ER32
                      >>> collet to hold the reamer. As for why I don't bore it, it's a small hole
                      >>> and I'll have to dig around to see if I have any boring bars that A) fit
                      >>> my boring head and B) are smaller than a half-inch. I might end up going
                      >>> that route.
                      >>>
                      >>> Mostly, I just wanted to know what I was giving up by whittling down the
                      >>> tang. From the sound of things, not much.
                      >>>
                      >>> --W
                      >>>
                      >>> Arthur Marks wrote:
                      >>>> I've asked the same question before. Feel free to shorten that looong
                      >>>> shank - chop it, grind it,
                      whatever, down to an appropriate length for
                      >>>> your use. There are intentionally short reamers made for screw machine
                      >>>> work, but they are not commonly available. They are more of a specialty
                      >>>> item and priced accordingly. Might also try single-point boring your
                      >>>> hole if you can do that. It'll be far more accurate than what you're
                      >>>> achieving now! :) Are you holding that reamer in a collet or a drill
                      >>>> chuck? -Arthur
                      >>>
                      >>> -- William Abernathy Berkeley, CA http://yourwritereditor.com
                      >>>
                      >>>
                      >>>
                      >>> _____
                      >>>
                      >>> No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version:
                      >>> 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6249 - Release Date:
                      04/16/13
                      >>>
                      >>
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      > ------------------------------------
                      >
                      > Yahoo! Groups Links
                      >
                      >

                      --
                      William Abernathy
                      Berkeley, CA
                      http://yourwritereditor.com


                      ------------------------------------

                      Yahoo! Groups Links






                      ------------------------------------

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                    • Kevin Weimer
                      One other thing I just thought of, how much are you trying to ream? You don t want your drill to be any smaller than one size less as the reamer with
                      Message 10 of 30 , Apr 23, 2013
                        One other thing I just thought of, how much are you trying to ream? You
                        don't want your drill to be any smaller than one size less as the reamer
                        with fractional drills. So if you are reaming a .4995 hole, you want your
                        drill size to be no less than 31/64 or .484. And if the reamer is super
                        long, cut the shank off down to the same length as your drills. For one, I
                        like to keep my reamers in a drill case and nothing worse than having a few
                        to long to shut the lid. Anyways, just wanted to toss that idea out there to
                        eliminate some possibilities. One other thing too, swap out the WD-40 for
                        some oil. I always used Vactra because that's what we had at the shop, but
                        at home, any 10W-30 or similar will work. WD-40, although good stuff, just
                        doesn't seem to work as well for reaming, or at least to me it doesn't. The
                        same with tapping, I like a good thick oil so the chips will stick in the
                        flute reliefs. That way you can back out the tap and bring the chips with
                        you.

                        You say that the aluminum is 6061, but what hardness is it? I wouldn't think
                        that it would be 6061-0, but I have grabbed aluminum off of the shelf at
                        work before that someone had used to silver solder some parts, then stuck it
                        back on the shelf. It machined and drilled entirely different in the hot
                        spot of the block.

                        K

                        -----Original Message-----
                        From: William Abernathy
                        Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 9:21 PM
                        To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                        Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Re: Chucking reamers

                        I'm confident it's the setup, not the tool. Tried it with a .500 reamer, got
                        awful results, fixed things up a bit (lowered the speed, added WD-40 for
                        lube --
                        yes, it's 6061 aluminum), made sure everything was tight, and massaged out
                        about
                        .010 of slop, but it's still an arms-length exchange, with the head cranked
                        high
                        and a reamer waving around out in space (and yes, I drilled a pilot hole as
                        well...)

                        --W

                        Ramdog wrote:
                        > One other thing...if you have a .4995 reamer and are reaming at .511,
                        > either
                        > your reamer is really dull, the head in relationship to the table is out
                        > of
                        > tram, or you have a burr on the end of the reamer that is causing it to
                        > ream
                        > oversize. Are you using a lubricant on the hole when you are reaming? Also
                        > what about the speeds. You could be running too fast causing it to chatter
                        > somewhat. What kind of material are you working with
                        >
                        > --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Ramdog" <kweimer@...> wrote:
                        >>
                        >>
                        >> Instead of ordering "straight flute chucking reamers", order "drill
                        >> length
                        >> chucking reamer". Problem solved. They're not hard to get, you're just
                        >> ordering the wrong ones. As far as taking the drill and chuck out and
                        >> using
                        >> an ER32 collet to hold your reamer for accuracy, there really is no need
                        >> to
                        >> do that as the reamer will follow the drilled hole anyways. I've rebuilt
                        >> many a die components and had to use a drill press swapping drills and
                        >> reamers and never had one problem in all the years I have done it.
                        >>
                        >> --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, Bill <bill_1955@> wrote:
                        >>>
                        >>> Ah….OK….can't help you much with the reamers. I only use `em for holes
                        >>> that I need a bit more accurate than just a drill.
                        >>>
                        >>> For bearings, bushings, etc, where I need to hold a tight tolerance, I
                        >>> always bore.
                        >>>
                        >>>
                        >>>
                        >>> I have one of those cheapie brazed carbide boring bar sets from
                        >>> Enco….the smallest ones will bore down to 5/16". I don't use `em much.
                        >>> All require a regrind to get `em to cut to begin with.
                        >>>
                        >>> For smaller bores, I generally use HSS. Both my 2" boring heads take ½"
                        >>> diameter tools, so I keep ½" diameter HSS rounds laying around, and
                        >>> grind `em to suit the job.
                        >>>
                        >>> I have used an old drill bit or two, with a little creative grinding, to
                        >>> get me out of a pinch. Be aware the shanks on HSS drill bits are not
                        >>> hardened.
                        >>>
                        >>>
                        >>>
                        >>> Bill
                        >>>
                        >>>
                        >>>
                        >>>
                        >>>
                        >>>
                        >>>
                        >>> From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On
                        >>> Behalf Of William Abernathy Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 10:09 AM To:
                        >>> mill_drill@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Chucking reamers
                        >>>
                        >>>
                        >>>
                        >>>
                        >>>
                        >>> Owing to the vertical-distance mambo we're all used to, I'm holding a
                        >>> drill bit in a drill chuck, then pulling the chuck and using an ER32
                        >>> collet to hold the reamer. As for why I don't bore it, it's a small hole
                        >>> and I'll have to dig around to see if I have any boring bars that A) fit
                        >>> my boring head and B) are smaller than a half-inch. I might end up going
                        >>> that route.
                        >>>
                        >>> Mostly, I just wanted to know what I was giving up by whittling down the
                        >>> tang. From the sound of things, not much.
                        >>>
                        >>> --W
                        >>>
                        >>> Arthur Marks wrote:
                        >>>> I've asked the same question before. Feel free to shorten that looong
                        >>>> shank - chop it, grind it, whatever, down to an appropriate length for
                        >>>> your use. There are intentionally short reamers made for screw machine
                        >>>> work, but they are not commonly available. They are more of a specialty
                        >>>> item and priced accordingly. Might also try single-point boring your
                        >>>> hole if you can do that. It'll be far more accurate than what you're
                        >>>> achieving now! :) Are you holding that reamer in a collet or a drill
                        >>>> chuck? -Arthur
                        >>>
                        >>> -- William Abernathy Berkeley, CA http://yourwritereditor.com
                        >>>
                        >>>
                        >>>
                        >>> _____
                        >>>
                        >>> No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version:
                        >>> 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6249 - Release Date: 04/16/13
                        >>>
                        >>
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        > ------------------------------------
                        >
                        > Yahoo! Groups Links
                        >
                        >

                        --
                        William Abernathy
                        Berkeley, CA
                        http://yourwritereditor.com


                        ------------------------------------

                        Yahoo! Groups Links
                      • Goran Hosinsky
                        Would these recommendations also be valid when turning aluminum? Goran Canary Islands
                        Message 11 of 30 , Apr 24, 2013
                          Would these recommendations also be valid when turning aluminum?
                          Goran
                          Canary Islands

                          On 2013-04-23 17:15, Kevin Weimer wrote:
                          > One other thing I just thought of, how much are you trying to ream? You
                          > don't want your drill to be any smaller than one size less as the reamer
                          > with fractional drills. So if you are reaming a .4995 hole, you want your
                          > drill size to be no less than 31/64 or .484. And if the reamer is super
                          > long, cut the shank off down to the same length as your drills. For one, I
                          > like to keep my reamers in a drill case and nothing worse than having a few
                          > to long to shut the lid. Anyways, just wanted to toss that idea out there to
                          > eliminate some possibilities. One other thing too, swap out the WD-40 for
                          > some oil. I always used Vactra because that's what we had at the shop, but
                          > at home, any 10W-30 or similar will work. WD-40, although good stuff, just
                          > doesn't seem to work as well for reaming, or at least to me it doesn't. The
                          > same with tapping, I like a good thick oil so the chips will stick in the
                          > flute reliefs. That way you can back out the tap and bring the chips with
                          > you.
                          >
                          > You say that the aluminum is 6061, but what hardness is it? I wouldn't think
                          > that it would be 6061-0, but I have grabbed aluminum off of the shelf at
                          > work before that someone had used to silver solder some parts, then stuck it
                          > back on the shelf. It machined and drilled entirely different in the hot
                          > spot of the block.
                          >
                          > K
                          >
                          > -----Original Message-----
                          > From: William Abernathy
                          > Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 9:21 PM
                          > To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                          > Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Re: Chucking reamers
                          >
                          > I'm confident it's the setup, not the tool. Tried it with a .500 reamer, got
                          > awful results, fixed things up a bit (lowered the speed, added WD-40 for
                          > lube --
                          > yes, it's 6061 aluminum), made sure everything was tight, and massaged out
                          > about
                          > .010 of slop, but it's still an arms-length exchange, with the head cranked
                          > high
                          > and a reamer waving around out in space (and yes, I drilled a pilot hole as
                          > well...)
                          >
                          > --W
                          >
                          > Ramdog wrote:
                          >> One other thing...if you have a .4995 reamer and are reaming at .511,
                          >> either
                          >> your reamer is really dull, the head in relationship to the table is out
                          >> of
                          >> tram, or you have a burr on the end of the reamer that is causing it to
                          >> ream
                          >> oversize. Are you using a lubricant on the hole when you are reaming? Also
                          >> what about the speeds. You could be running too fast causing it to chatter
                          >> somewhat. What kind of material are you working with
                          >>
                          >> --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Ramdog" <kweimer@...> wrote:
                          >>>
                          >>> Instead of ordering "straight flute chucking reamers", order "drill
                          >>> length
                          >>> chucking reamer". Problem solved. They're not hard to get, you're just
                          >>> ordering the wrong ones. As far as taking the drill and chuck out and
                          >>> using
                          >>> an ER32 collet to hold your reamer for accuracy, there really is no need
                          >>> to
                          >>> do that as the reamer will follow the drilled hole anyways. I've rebuilt
                          >>> many a die components and had to use a drill press swapping drills and
                          >>> reamers and never had one problem in all the years I have done it.
                          >>>
                          >>> --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, Bill <bill_1955@> wrote:
                          >>>> Ah….OK….can't help you much with the reamers. I only use `em for holes
                          >>>> that I need a bit more accurate than just a drill.
                          >>>>
                          >>>> For bearings, bushings, etc, where I need to hold a tight tolerance, I
                          >>>> always bore.
                          >>>>
                          >>>>
                          >>>>
                          >>>> I have one of those cheapie brazed carbide boring bar sets from
                          >>>> Enco….the smallest ones will bore down to 5/16". I don't use `em much.
                          >>>> All require a regrind to get `em to cut to begin with.
                          >>>>
                          >>>> For smaller bores, I generally use HSS. Both my 2" boring heads take ½"
                          >>>> diameter tools, so I keep ½" diameter HSS rounds laying around, and
                          >>>> grind `em to suit the job.
                          >>>>
                          >>>> I have used an old drill bit or two, with a little creative grinding, to
                          >>>> get me out of a pinch. Be aware the shanks on HSS drill bits are not
                          >>>> hardened.
                          >>>>
                          >>>>
                          >>>>
                          >>>> Bill
                          >>>>
                          >>>>
                          >>>>
                          >>>>
                          >>>>
                          >>>>
                          >>>>
                          >>>> From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On
                          >>>> Behalf Of William Abernathy Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 10:09 AM To:
                          >>>> mill_drill@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Chucking reamers
                          >>>>
                          >>>>
                          >>>>
                          >>>>
                          >>>>
                          >>>> Owing to the vertical-distance mambo we're all used to, I'm holding a
                          >>>> drill bit in a drill chuck, then pulling the chuck and using an ER32
                          >>>> collet to hold the reamer. As for why I don't bore it, it's a small hole
                          >>>> and I'll have to dig around to see if I have any boring bars that A) fit
                          >>>> my boring head and B) are smaller than a half-inch. I might end up going
                          >>>> that route.
                          >>>>
                          >>>> Mostly, I just wanted to know what I was giving up by whittling down the
                          >>>> tang. From the sound of things, not much.
                          >>>>
                          >>>> --W
                          >>>>
                          >>>> Arthur Marks wrote:
                          >>>>> I've asked the same question before. Feel free to shorten that looong
                          >>>>> shank - chop it, grind it, whatever, down to an appropriate length for
                          >>>>> your use. There are intentionally short reamers made for screw machine
                          >>>>> work, but they are not commonly available. They are more of a specialty
                          >>>>> item and priced accordingly. Might also try single-point boring your
                          >>>>> hole if you can do that. It'll be far more accurate than what you're
                          >>>>> achieving now! :) Are you holding that reamer in a collet or a drill
                          >>>>> chuck? -Arthur
                          >>>> -- William Abernathy Berkeley, CA http://yourwritereditor.com
                          >>>>
                          >>>>
                          >>>>
                          >>>> _____
                          >>>>
                          >>>> No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version:
                          >>>> 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6249 - Release Date: 04/16/13
                          >>>>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >> ------------------------------------
                          >>
                          >> Yahoo! Groups Links
                          >>
                          >>
                        • Guenther Paul
                          Yes the reaming process is the same for all metals GP ________________________________ From: Goran Hosinsky To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                          Message 12 of 30 , Apr 24, 2013
                            Yes the reaming process is the same for all metals 
                            GP



                            From: Goran Hosinsky <hosinsky@...>
                            To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                            Cc: hosinsky@...
                            Sent: Wed, April 24, 2013 8:51:46 AMocess
                            Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Re: Chucking reamers - cutting oil

                            Would these  recommendations also be valid when turning aluminum?
                            Goran
                            Canary Islands

                            On 2013-04-23 17:15, Kevin Weimer wrote:
                            > One other thing I just thought of, how much are you trying to ream? You
                            > don't want your drill to be any smaller than one size less as the reamer
                            > with fractional drills. So if you are reaming a .4995 hole, you want your
                            > drill size to be no less than 31/64 or .484. And if the reamer is super
                            > long, cut the shank off down to the same length as your drills. For one, I
                            > like to keep my reamers in a drill case and nothing worse than having a few
                            > to long to shut the lid. Anyways, just wanted to toss that idea out there to
                            > eliminate some possibilities. One other thing too, swap out the WD-40 for
                            > some oil. I always used Vactra because that's what we had at the shop, but
                            > at home, any 10W-30 or similar will work. WD-40, although good stuff, just
                            > doesn't seem to work as well for reaming, or at least to me it doesn't. The
                            > same with tapping, I like a good thick oil so the chips will stick in the
                            > flute reliefs. That way you can back out the tap and bring the chips with
                            > you.
                            >
                            > You say that the aluminum is 6061, but what hardness is it? I wouldn't think
                            > that it would be 6061-0, but I have grabbed aluminum off of the shelf at
                            > work before that someone had used to silver solder some parts, then stuck it
                            > back on the shelf. It machined and drilled entirely different in the hot
                            > spot of the block.
                            >
                            > K
                            >
                            > -----Original Message-----
                            > From: William Abernathy
                            > Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 9:21 PM
                            > To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                            > Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Re: Chucking reamers
                            >
                            > I'm confident it's the setup, not the tool. Tried it with a .500 reamer, got
                            > awful results, fixed things up a bit (lowered the speed, added WD-40 for
                            > lube --
                            > yes, it's 6061 aluminum), made sure everything was tight, and massaged out
                            > about
                            > .010 of slop, but it's still an arms-length exchange, with the head cranked
                            > high
                            > and a reamer waving around out in space (and yes, I drilled a pilot hole as
                            > well...)
                            >
                            > --W
                            >
                            > Ramdog wrote:
                            >> One other thing...if you have a .4995 reamer and are reaming at .511,
                            >> either
                            >> your reamer is really dull, the head in relationship to the table is out
                            >> of
                            >> tram, or you have a burr on the end of the reamer that is causing it to
                            >> ream
                            >> oversize. Are you using a lubricant on the hole when you are reaming? Also
                            >> what about the speeds. You could be running too fast causing it to chatter
                            >> somewhat. What kind of material are you working with
                            >>
                            >> --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Ramdog" <kweimer@...> wrote:
                            >>>
                            >>> Instead of ordering "straight flute chucking reamers", order "drill
                            >>> length
                            >>> chucking reamer". Problem solved. They're not hard to get, you're just
                            >>> ordering the wrong ones. As far as taking the drill and chuck out and
                            >>> using
                            >>> an ER32 collet to hold your reamer for accuracy, there really is no need
                            >>> to
                            >>> do that as the reamer will follow the drilled hole anyways. I've rebuilt
                            >>> many a die components and had to use a drill press swapping drills and
                            >>> reamers and never had one problem in all the years I have done it.
                            >>>
                            >>> --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, Bill <bill_1955@> wrote:
                            >>>> Ah….OK….can't help you much with the reamers. I only use `em for holes
                            >>>> that I need a bit more accurate than just a drill.
                            >>>>
                            >>>> For bearings, bushings, etc, where I need to hold a tight tolerance, I
                            >>>> always bore.
                            >>>>
                            >>>>
                            >>>>
                            >>>> I have one of those cheapie brazed carbide boring bar sets from
                            >>>> Enco….the smallest ones will bore down to 5/16". I don't use `em much.
                            >>>> All require a regrind to get `em to cut to begin with.
                            >>>>
                            >>>> For smaller bores, I generally use HSS. Both my 2" boring heads take ½"
                            >>>> diameter tools, so I keep ½" diameter HSS rounds laying around, and
                            >>>> grind `em to suit the job.
                            >>>>
                            >>>> I have used an old drill bit or two, with a little creative grinding, to
                            >>>> get me out of a pinch. Be aware the shanks on HSS drill bits are not
                            >>>> hardened.
                            >>>>
                            >>>>
                            >>>>
                            >>>> Bill
                            >>>>
                            >>>>
                            >>>>
                            >>>>
                            >>>>
                            >>>>
                            >>>>
                            >>>> From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On
                            >>>> Behalf Of William Abernathy Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 10:09 AM To:
                            >>>> mill_drill@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Chucking reamers
                            >>>>
                            >>>>
                            >>>>
                            >>>>
                            >>>>
                            >>>> Owing to the vertical-distance mambo we're all used to, I'm holding a
                            >>>> drill bit in a drill chuck, then pulling the chuck and using an ER32
                            >>>> collet to hold the reamer. As for why I don't bore it, it's a small hole
                            >>>> and I'll have to dig around to see if I have any boring bars that A) fit
                            >>>> my boring head and B) are smaller than a half-inch. I might end up going
                            >>>> that route.
                            >>>>
                            >>>> Mostly, I just wanted to know what I was giving up by whittling down the
                            >>>> tang. From the sound of things, not much.
                            >>>>
                            >>>> --W
                            >>>>
                            >>>> Arthur Marks wrote:
                            >>>>> I've asked the same question before. Feel free to shorten that looong
                            >>>>> shank - chop it, grind it, whatever, down to an appropriate length for
                            >>>>> your use. There are intentionally short reamers made for screw machine
                            >>>>> work, but they are not commonly available. They are more of a specialty
                            >>>>> item and priced accordingly. Might also try single-point boring your
                            >>>>> hole if you can do that. It'll be far more accurate than what you're
                            >>>>> achieving now! :) Are you holding that reamer in a collet or a drill
                            >>>>> chuck? -Arthur
                            >>>> -- William Abernathy Berkeley, CA http://yourwritereditor.com
                            >>>>
                            >>>>
                            >>>>
                            >>>> _____
                            >>>>
                            >>>> No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version:
                            >>>> 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6249 - Release Date: 04/16/13
                            >>>>
                            >>
                            >>
                            >>
                            >> ------------------------------------
                            >>
                            >> Yahoo! Groups Links
                            >>
                            >>



                            ------------------------------------

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                          • Guenther Paul
                            I have reamed many many holes on a drill press with the work not clamped in place in all metals. All one has to do is to relocate the hole and run the reamer
                            Message 13 of 30 , Apr 24, 2013
                              I have reamed many many holes on a drill press with the work not clamped in place in all metals.
                              All one has to do is to relocate the hole and run the reamer slow. High rpm's will make the hole bigger
                               
                              GP



                              From: Kevin Weimer <kweimer@...>
                              To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                              Sent: Wed, April 24, 2013 9:12:04 AM
                              Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Re: Chucking reamers - cutting oil

                              In reading your previous response, it got me to thinking.......Is your part
                              clamped down? And when you raise the head, or lower the table, how are you
                              locating the hole again. If you have everything clamped solid, when you
                              raise or lower the head or table, you're moving away from centerline of the
                              hole, so when the reamer enters the hole, it is entering on a bind and a
                              slight angle. Even if you are using the drill and reamer in a mill, if the
                              mill is not perfectly trammed, any up or down movement of the table will
                              result in a shift of the holes centerline causing an egg-shaped oversize
                              hole. If the head is out of tram to the table in two directions, you are
                              flexing the reamer all over the place. If you want a sketch showing what I
                              mean, I can make up a quick on for you.

                              K

                              -----Original Message-----
                              From: Goran Hosinsky
                              Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2013 5:51 AM
                              To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                              Cc: hosinsky@...
                              Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Re: Chucking reamers - cutting oil

                              Would these  recommendations also be valid when turning aluminum?
                              Goran
                              Canary Islands

                              On 2013-04-23 17:15, Kevin Weimer wrote:
                              > One other thing I just thought of, how much are you trying to ream? You
                              > don't want your drill to be any smaller than one size less as the reamer
                              > with fractional drills. So if you are reaming a .4995 hole, you want your
                              > drill size to be no less than 31/64 or .484. And if the reamer is super
                              > long, cut the shank off down to the same length as your drills. For one, I
                              > like to keep my reamers in a drill case and nothing worse than having a
                              > few
                              > to long to shut the lid. Anyways, just wanted to toss that idea out there
                              > to
                              > eliminate some possibilities. One other thing too, swap out the WD-40 for
                              > some oil. I always used Vactra because that's what we had at the shop, but
                              > at home, any 10W-30 or similar will work. WD-40, although good stuff, just
                              > doesn't seem to work as well for reaming, or at least to me it doesn't.
                              > The
                              > same with tapping, I like a good thick oil so the chips will stick in the
                              > flute reliefs. That way you can back out the tap and bring the chips with
                              > you.
                              >
                              > You say that the aluminum is 6061, but what hardness is it? I wouldn't
                              > think
                              > that it would be 6061-0, but I have grabbed aluminum off of the shelf at
                              > work before that someone had used to silver solder some parts, then stuck
                              > it
                              > back on the shelf. It machined and drilled entirely different in the hot
                              > spot of the block.
                              >
                              > K
                              >
                              > -----Original Message-----
                              > From: William Abernathy
                              > Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 9:21 PM
                              > To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                              > Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Re: Chucking reamers
                              >
                              > I'm confident it's the setup, not the tool. Tried it with a .500 reamer,
                              > got
                              > awful results, fixed things up a bit (lowered the speed, added WD-40 for
                              > lube --
                              > yes, it's 6061 aluminum), made sure everything was tight, and massaged out
                              > about
                              > .010 of slop, but it's still an arms-length exchange, with the head
                              > cranked
                              > high
                              > and a reamer waving around out in space (and yes, I drilled a pilot hole
                              > as
                              > well...)
                              >
                              > --W
                              >
                              > Ramdog wrote:
                              >> One other thing...if you have a .4995 reamer and are reaming at .511,
                              >> either
                              >> your reamer is really dull, the head in relationship to the table is out
                              >> of
                              >> tram, or you have a burr on the end of the reamer that is causing it to
                              >> ream
                              >> oversize. Are you using a lubricant on the hole when you are reaming?
                              >> Also
                              >> what about the speeds. You could be running too fast causing it to
                              >> chatter
                              >> somewhat. What kind of material are you working with
                              >>
                              >> --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Ramdog" <kweimer@...> wrote:
                              >>>
                              >>> Instead of ordering "straight flute chucking reamers", order "drill
                              >>> length
                              >>> chucking reamer". Problem solved. They're not hard to get, you're just
                              >>> ordering the wrong ones. As far as taking the drill and chuck out and
                              >>> using
                              >>> an ER32 collet to hold your reamer for accuracy, there really is no need
                              >>> to
                              >>> do that as the reamer will follow the drilled hole anyways. I've rebuilt
                              >>> many a die components and had to use a drill press swapping drills and
                              >>> reamers and never had one problem in all the years I have done it.
                              >>>
                              >>> --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, Bill <bill_1955@> wrote:
                              >>>> Ah….OK….can't help you much with the reamers. I only use `em for holes
                              >>>> that I need a bit more accurate than just a drill.
                              >>>>
                              >>>> For bearings, bushings, etc, where I need to hold a tight tolerance, I
                              >>>> always bore.
                              >>>>
                              >>>>
                              >>>>
                              >>>> I have one of those cheapie brazed carbide boring bar sets from
                              >>>> Enco….the smallest ones will bore down to 5/16". I don't use `em much.
                              >>>> All require a regrind to get `em to cut to begin with.
                              >>>>
                              >>>> For smaller bores, I generally use HSS. Both my 2" boring heads take ½"
                              >>>> diameter tools, so I keep ½" diameter HSS rounds laying around, and
                              >>>> grind `em to suit the job.
                              >>>>
                              >>>> I have used an old drill bit or two, with a little creative grinding,
                              >>>> to
                              >>>> get me out of a pinch. Be aware the shanks on HSS drill bits are not
                              >>>> hardened.
                              >>>>
                              >>>>
                              >>>>
                              >>>> Bill
                              >>>>
                              >>>>
                              >>>>
                              >>>>
                              >>>>
                              >>>>
                              >>>>
                              >>>> From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On
                              >>>> Behalf Of William Abernathy Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 10:09 AM To:
                              >>>> mill_drill@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Chucking reamers
                              >>>>
                              >>>>
                              >>>>
                              >>>>
                              >>>>
                              >>>> Owing to the vertical-distance mambo we're all used to, I'm holding a
                              >>>> drill bit in a drill chuck, then pulling the chuck and using an ER32
                              >>>> collet to hold the reamer. As for why I don't bore it, it's a small
                              >>>> hole
                              >>>> and I'll have to dig around to see if I have any boring bars that A)
                              >>>> fit
                              >>>> my boring head and B) are smaller than a half-inch. I might end up
                              >>>> going
                              >>>> that route.
                              >>>>
                              >>>> Mostly, I just wanted to know what I was giving up by whittling down
                              >>>> the
                              >>>> tang. From the sound of things, not much.
                              >>>>
                              >>>> --W
                              >>>>
                              >>>> Arthur Marks wrote:
                              >>>>> I've asked the same question before. Feel free to shorten that looong
                              >>>>> shank - chop it, grind it, whatever, down to an appropriate length for
                              >>>>> your use. There are intentionally short reamers made for screw machine
                              >>>>> work, but they are not commonly available. They are more of a
                              >>>>> specialty
                              >>>>> item and priced accordingly. Might also try single-point boring your
                              >>>>> hole if you can do that. It'll be far more accurate than what you're
                              >>>>> achieving now! :) Are you holding that reamer in a collet or a drill
                              >>>>> chuck? -Arthur
                              >>>> -- William Abernathy Berkeley, CA http://yourwritereditor.com
                              >>>>
                              >>>>
                              >>>>
                              >>>> _____
                              >>>>
                              >>>> No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version:
                              >>>> 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6249 - Release Date: 04/16/13
                              >>>>
                              >>
                              >>
                              >>
                              >> ------------------------------------
                              >>
                              >> Yahoo! Groups Links
                              >>
                              >>



                              ------------------------------------

                              Yahoo! Groups Links






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                            • Kevin Weimer
                              In reading your previous response, it got me to thinking.......Is your part clamped down? And when you raise the head, or lower the table, how are you locating
                              Message 14 of 30 , Apr 24, 2013
                                In reading your previous response, it got me to thinking.......Is your part
                                clamped down? And when you raise the head, or lower the table, how are you
                                locating the hole again. If you have everything clamped solid, when you
                                raise or lower the head or table, you're moving away from centerline of the
                                hole, so when the reamer enters the hole, it is entering on a bind and a
                                slight angle. Even if you are using the drill and reamer in a mill, if the
                                mill is not perfectly trammed, any up or down movement of the table will
                                result in a shift of the holes centerline causing an egg-shaped oversize
                                hole. If the head is out of tram to the table in two directions, you are
                                flexing the reamer all over the place. If you want a sketch showing what I
                                mean, I can make up a quick on for you.

                                K

                                -----Original Message-----
                                From: Goran Hosinsky
                                Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2013 5:51 AM
                                To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                                Cc: hosinsky@...
                                Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Re: Chucking reamers - cutting oil

                                Would these recommendations also be valid when turning aluminum?
                                Goran
                                Canary Islands

                                On 2013-04-23 17:15, Kevin Weimer wrote:
                                > One other thing I just thought of, how much are you trying to ream? You
                                > don't want your drill to be any smaller than one size less as the reamer
                                > with fractional drills. So if you are reaming a .4995 hole, you want your
                                > drill size to be no less than 31/64 or .484. And if the reamer is super
                                > long, cut the shank off down to the same length as your drills. For one, I
                                > like to keep my reamers in a drill case and nothing worse than having a
                                > few
                                > to long to shut the lid. Anyways, just wanted to toss that idea out there
                                > to
                                > eliminate some possibilities. One other thing too, swap out the WD-40 for
                                > some oil. I always used Vactra because that's what we had at the shop, but
                                > at home, any 10W-30 or similar will work. WD-40, although good stuff, just
                                > doesn't seem to work as well for reaming, or at least to me it doesn't.
                                > The
                                > same with tapping, I like a good thick oil so the chips will stick in the
                                > flute reliefs. That way you can back out the tap and bring the chips with
                                > you.
                                >
                                > You say that the aluminum is 6061, but what hardness is it? I wouldn't
                                > think
                                > that it would be 6061-0, but I have grabbed aluminum off of the shelf at
                                > work before that someone had used to silver solder some parts, then stuck
                                > it
                                > back on the shelf. It machined and drilled entirely different in the hot
                                > spot of the block.
                                >
                                > K
                                >
                                > -----Original Message-----
                                > From: William Abernathy
                                > Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 9:21 PM
                                > To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                                > Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Re: Chucking reamers
                                >
                                > I'm confident it's the setup, not the tool. Tried it with a .500 reamer,
                                > got
                                > awful results, fixed things up a bit (lowered the speed, added WD-40 for
                                > lube --
                                > yes, it's 6061 aluminum), made sure everything was tight, and massaged out
                                > about
                                > .010 of slop, but it's still an arms-length exchange, with the head
                                > cranked
                                > high
                                > and a reamer waving around out in space (and yes, I drilled a pilot hole
                                > as
                                > well...)
                                >
                                > --W
                                >
                                > Ramdog wrote:
                                >> One other thing...if you have a .4995 reamer and are reaming at .511,
                                >> either
                                >> your reamer is really dull, the head in relationship to the table is out
                                >> of
                                >> tram, or you have a burr on the end of the reamer that is causing it to
                                >> ream
                                >> oversize. Are you using a lubricant on the hole when you are reaming?
                                >> Also
                                >> what about the speeds. You could be running too fast causing it to
                                >> chatter
                                >> somewhat. What kind of material are you working with
                                >>
                                >> --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Ramdog" <kweimer@...> wrote:
                                >>>
                                >>> Instead of ordering "straight flute chucking reamers", order "drill
                                >>> length
                                >>> chucking reamer". Problem solved. They're not hard to get, you're just
                                >>> ordering the wrong ones. As far as taking the drill and chuck out and
                                >>> using
                                >>> an ER32 collet to hold your reamer for accuracy, there really is no need
                                >>> to
                                >>> do that as the reamer will follow the drilled hole anyways. I've rebuilt
                                >>> many a die components and had to use a drill press swapping drills and
                                >>> reamers and never had one problem in all the years I have done it.
                                >>>
                                >>> --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, Bill <bill_1955@> wrote:
                                >>>> Ah….OK….can't help you much with the reamers. I only use `em for holes
                                >>>> that I need a bit more accurate than just a drill.
                                >>>>
                                >>>> For bearings, bushings, etc, where I need to hold a tight tolerance, I
                                >>>> always bore.
                                >>>>
                                >>>>
                                >>>>
                                >>>> I have one of those cheapie brazed carbide boring bar sets from
                                >>>> Enco….the smallest ones will bore down to 5/16". I don't use `em much.
                                >>>> All require a regrind to get `em to cut to begin with.
                                >>>>
                                >>>> For smaller bores, I generally use HSS. Both my 2" boring heads take ½"
                                >>>> diameter tools, so I keep ½" diameter HSS rounds laying around, and
                                >>>> grind `em to suit the job.
                                >>>>
                                >>>> I have used an old drill bit or two, with a little creative grinding,
                                >>>> to
                                >>>> get me out of a pinch. Be aware the shanks on HSS drill bits are not
                                >>>> hardened.
                                >>>>
                                >>>>
                                >>>>
                                >>>> Bill
                                >>>>
                                >>>>
                                >>>>
                                >>>>
                                >>>>
                                >>>>
                                >>>>
                                >>>> From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On
                                >>>> Behalf Of William Abernathy Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 10:09 AM To:
                                >>>> mill_drill@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Chucking reamers
                                >>>>
                                >>>>
                                >>>>
                                >>>>
                                >>>>
                                >>>> Owing to the vertical-distance mambo we're all used to, I'm holding a
                                >>>> drill bit in a drill chuck, then pulling the chuck and using an ER32
                                >>>> collet to hold the reamer. As for why I don't bore it, it's a small
                                >>>> hole
                                >>>> and I'll have to dig around to see if I have any boring bars that A)
                                >>>> fit
                                >>>> my boring head and B) are smaller than a half-inch. I might end up
                                >>>> going
                                >>>> that route.
                                >>>>
                                >>>> Mostly, I just wanted to know what I was giving up by whittling down
                                >>>> the
                                >>>> tang. From the sound of things, not much.
                                >>>>
                                >>>> --W
                                >>>>
                                >>>> Arthur Marks wrote:
                                >>>>> I've asked the same question before. Feel free to shorten that looong
                                >>>>> shank - chop it, grind it, whatever, down to an appropriate length for
                                >>>>> your use. There are intentionally short reamers made for screw machine
                                >>>>> work, but they are not commonly available. They are more of a
                                >>>>> specialty
                                >>>>> item and priced accordingly. Might also try single-point boring your
                                >>>>> hole if you can do that. It'll be far more accurate than what you're
                                >>>>> achieving now! :) Are you holding that reamer in a collet or a drill
                                >>>>> chuck? -Arthur
                                >>>> -- William Abernathy Berkeley, CA http://yourwritereditor.com
                                >>>>
                                >>>>
                                >>>>
                                >>>> _____
                                >>>>
                                >>>> No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version:
                                >>>> 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6249 - Release Date: 04/16/13
                                >>>>
                                >>
                                >>
                                >>
                                >> ------------------------------------
                                >>
                                >> Yahoo! Groups Links
                                >>
                                >>



                                ------------------------------------

                                Yahoo! Groups Links
                              • Lynn Kasdorf
                                I am in need of an R8 boring head for making holes of arbitrary sizes, and for cutting arcs, and all the other things you can do with a boring head on a mill.
                                Message 15 of 30 , Apr 24, 2013
                                  I am in need of an R8 boring head for making holes of arbitrary sizes, and for cutting arcs, and all the other things you can do with a boring head on a mill. I wonder if any of you can suggest a decent head or set in the <$100 range.

                                  Over the years I have accumulated  a handful of carbide tip boring bars with 1/2" shanks as well as a number of smaller ones with 3/8" shanks. A number of the boring heads I see on ebay have 3/4" holes- I guess they require 3/4 boring bars? Or do people routinely use reducing sleeves to mount smaller shaft boring bars?

                                  The machines I'll be running this on are a Rockwell vertical mill and a full size Bridgeport clone.

                                  An example of one I am looking at is this:
                                  http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3662&category=

                                  Then, I see one on ebay with these specs:
                                  • Head = 3"
                                  • Boring Bar Hole = 3/4"
                                  • Cross Hole Diameter = 3/8"
                                  • Max. Offset = 1"
                                  • Thread Size = 1.5" - 18
                                  • Graduations = 0.001/0-50
                                  • Micrometer Lead Screw Provides 0.001" Direct Reading Accuracy and Ease of Adjusting
                                  • Double Bar Holder Permits a Greater Boring Range Without an Extreme Offset Condition

                                  Why is the cross hole 3/8 and the boring bar hole 3/4?

                                  There is much I need to learn about these things- I guess you can mount a boring bar vertically or horizontally.
                                  Thanks for any info.

                                  I don't have a large budget and I am not averse to lower price asian or Indian tooleing (I have some very nice pieces that were quite affordable). Is a boring head a case where it is worth spending a bit more money on a really good one?

                                  Lynn Kasdorf


                                • Guenther Paul
                                  http://www.tools4cheap.net/proddetail.php?prod=3bore http://www.tools4cheap.net/proddetail.php?prod=2bore http://cdcotools.com/item.php?itemid=523 Lynn Check
                                  Message 16 of 30 , Apr 24, 2013
                                     
                                    Lynn
                                    Check these boring heads out
                                     
                                    GP



                                    From: Lynn Kasdorf <kasdorfmisc@...>
                                    Sent: Wed, April 24, 2013 5:51:54 PM
                                    Subject: [mill_drill] suggestions for affordable boring head

                                     

                                    I am in need of an R8 boring head for making holes of arbitrary sizes, and for cutting arcs, and all the other things you can do with a boring head on a mill. I wonder if any of you can suggest a decent head or set in the <$100 range.

                                    Over the years I have accumulated  a handful of carbide tip boring bars with 1/2" shanks as well as a number of smaller ones with 3/8" shanks. A number of the boring heads I see on ebay have 3/4" holes- I guess they require 3/4 boring bars? Or do people routinely use reducing sleeves to mount smaller shaft boring bars?

                                    The machines I'll be running this on are a Rockwell vertical mill and a full size Bridgeport clone.

                                    An example of one I am looking at is this:
                                    http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3662&category=

                                    Then, I see one on ebay with these specs:

                                    • Head = 3"
                                    • Boring Bar Hole = 3/4"
                                    • Cross Hole Diameter = 3/8"
                                    • Max. Offset = 1"
                                    • Thread Size = 1.5" - 18
                                    • Graduations = 0.001/0-50
                                    • Micrometer Lead Screw Provides 0.001" Direct Reading Accuracy and Ease of Adjusting
                                    • Double Bar Holder Permits a Greater Boring Range Without an Extreme Offset Condition

                                    Why is the cross hole 3/8 and the boring bar hole 3/4?

                                    There is much I need to learn about these things- I guess you can mount a boring bar vertically or horizontally.
                                    Thanks for any info.

                                    I don't have a large budget and I am not averse to lower price asian or Indian tooleing (I have some very nice pieces that were quite affordable). Is a boring head a case where it is worth spending a bit more money on a really good one?

                                    Lynn Kasdorf


                                  • William Abernathy
                                    I have a cheap boring head, and it works fine. provided the screw isn t sticky and the graduations are on straight, even if it s wildly eccentric, it s still
                                    Message 17 of 30 , Apr 24, 2013
                                      I have a cheap boring head, and it works fine. provided the screw isn't sticky
                                      and the graduations are on straight, even if it's wildly eccentric, it's still
                                      going to work.

                                      Assuming you have a lathe, making a sleeve for the boring bar/socket interface
                                      should be trivial.

                                      --W

                                      Lynn Kasdorf wrote:
                                      >
                                      >
                                      > I am in need of an R8 boring head for making holes of arbitrary sizes, and for
                                      > cutting arcs, and all the other things you can do with a boring head on a mill.
                                      > I wonder if any of you can suggest a decent head or set in the <$100 range.
                                      >
                                      > Over the years I have accumulated a handful of carbide tip boring bars with
                                      > 1/2" shanks as well as a number of smaller ones with 3/8" shanks. A number of
                                      > the boring heads I see on ebay have 3/4" holes- I guess they require 3/4 boring
                                      > bars? Or do people routinely use reducing sleeves to mount smaller shaft boring
                                      > bars?
                                      >
                                      > The machines I'll be running this on are a Rockwell vertical mill and a full
                                      > size Bridgeport clone.
                                      >
                                      > An example of one I am looking at is this:
                                      > http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3662&category=
                                      >
                                      > Then, I see one on ebay with these specs:
                                      >
                                      > *
                                      > Head = 3"
                                      > *
                                      > Boring Bar Hole = 3/4"
                                      > *
                                      > Cross Hole Diameter = 3/8"
                                      > *
                                      > Max. Offset = 1"
                                      > *
                                      > Thread Size = 1.5" - 18
                                      > *
                                      > Graduations = 0.001/0-50
                                      > *
                                      > Micrometer Lead Screw Provides 0.001" Direct Reading Accuracy and Ease of
                                      > Adjusting
                                      > *
                                      > Double Bar Holder Permits a Greater Boring Range Without an Extreme Offset
                                      > Condition
                                      >
                                      > Why is the cross hole 3/8 and the boring bar hole 3/4?
                                      >
                                      > There is much I need to learn about these things- I guess you can mount a boring
                                      > bar vertically or horizontally.
                                      > Thanks for any info.
                                      >
                                      > I don't have a large budget and I am not averse to lower price asian or Indian
                                      > tooleing (I have some very nice pieces that were quite affordable). Is a boring
                                      > head a case where it is worth spending a bit more money on a really good one?
                                      >
                                      > Lynn Kasdorf
                                      >
                                      >
                                      >
                                      >
                                      >

                                      --
                                      William Abernathy
                                      Berkeley, CA
                                      http://yourwritereditor.com
                                    • Edgar
                                      Here is a nice one you can make. You could scale the drawings to the size you need. You wouldn t have to make the special metric tap shown unless you want to
                                      Message 18 of 30 , Apr 24, 2013
                                        Here is a nice one you can make. You could scale the drawings to the size you need. You wouldn't have to make the special metric tap shown unless you want to work in metric feeds. An R8>J33 adapter is about $20 and the dovetail cutter is around $50 (if you don't have one). The good news is that, though you could buy a Chinese boring head for $75, you would have the dovetail cutter to make the quick change lathe tool post also shown on this web site...plus the satisfaction of having a tool that you would be proud to put your name on.
                                        http://homepage3.nifty.com/amigos/boring_head/boring_head-e.htm

                                        Orlin in SC/USA


                                        >
                                        > --W
                                        >
                                        > Lynn Kasdorf wrote:
                                        > >
                                        > >
                                        > > I am in need of an R8 boring head for making holes of arbitrary sizes, and for
                                        > > cutting arcs, and all the other things you can do with a boring head on a mill.
                                        > > I wonder if any of you can suggest a decent head or set in the <$100 range.
                                        > >
                                        > > Over the years I have accumulated a handful of carbide tip boring bars with
                                        > > 1/2" shanks as well as a number of smaller ones with 3/8" shanks. A number of
                                        > > the boring heads I see on ebay have 3/4" holes- I guess they require 3/4 boring
                                        > > bars? Or do people routinely use reducing sleeves to mount smaller shaft boring
                                        > > bars?
                                        > >
                                        > > The machines I'll be running this on are a Rockwell vertical mill and a full
                                        > > size Bridgeport clone.
                                        > >
                                        > > An example of one I am looking at is this:
                                        > > http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3662&category=
                                        > >
                                        > > Then, I see one on ebay with these specs:
                                        > >
                                        > > *
                                        > > Head = 3"
                                        > > *
                                        > > Boring Bar Hole = 3/4"
                                        > > *
                                        > > Cross Hole Diameter = 3/8"
                                        > > *
                                        > > Max. Offset = 1"
                                        > > *
                                        > > Thread Size = 1.5" - 18
                                        > > *
                                        > > Graduations = 0.001/0-50
                                        > > *
                                        > > Micrometer Lead Screw Provides 0.001" Direct Reading Accuracy and Ease of
                                        > > Adjusting
                                        > > *
                                        > > Double Bar Holder Permits a Greater Boring Range Without an Extreme Offset
                                        > > Condition
                                        > >
                                        > > Why is the cross hole 3/8 and the boring bar hole 3/4?
                                        > >
                                        > > There is much I need to learn about these things- I guess you can mount a boring
                                        > > bar vertically or horizontally.
                                        > > Thanks for any info.
                                        > >
                                        > > I don't have a large budget and I am not averse to lower price asian or Indian
                                        > > tooleing (I have some very nice pieces that were quite affordable). Is a boring
                                        > > head a case where it is worth spending a bit more money on a really good one?
                                        > >
                                        > > Lynn Kasdorf
                                        > >
                                        > >
                                        > >
                                        > >
                                        > >
                                        >
                                        > --
                                        > William Abernathy
                                        > Berkeley, CA
                                        > http://yourwritereditor.com
                                        >
                                      • Michael Parrish
                                        Lynn, I have had good luck with these guys: http://www.jtsmach.com/jtswebshop/Workholding/WH252.asp#two . They used to have 10% Tuesdays. Get on the email
                                        Message 19 of 30 , Apr 24, 2013
                                          Lynn, I have had good luck with these guys: http://www.jtsmach.com/jtswebshop/Workholding/WH252.asp#two . They used to have 10% Tuesdays. Get on the email list, they actually have the occasional good deal. I have bought dozens of the 6" electronic calipers, to spread around the shops where I have worked (usually ~$9.95). The printed sale flyer has the best deals, I have gotten several digital linear slides from them (poor man's DRO). The website does not have the best user interface, but it works. Good hunting, Mike

                                          --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, William Abernathy <william@...> wrote:
                                          >
                                          > I have a cheap boring head, and it works fine. provided the screw isn't sticky
                                          > and the graduations are on straight, even if it's wildly eccentric, it's still
                                          > going to work.
                                          >
                                          > Assuming you have a lathe, making a sleeve for the boring bar/socket interface
                                          > should be trivial.
                                          >
                                          > --W
                                          >
                                          > Lynn Kasdorf wrote:
                                          > >
                                          > >
                                          > > I am in need of an R8 boring head for making holes of arbitrary sizes, and for
                                          > > cutting arcs, and all the other things you can do with a boring head on a mill.
                                          > > I wonder if any of you can suggest a decent head or set in the <$100 range.
                                          > >
                                          > > Over the years I have accumulated a handful of carbide tip boring bars with
                                          > > 1/2" shanks as well as a number of smaller ones with 3/8" shanks. A number of
                                          > > the boring heads I see on ebay have 3/4" holes- I guess they require 3/4 boring
                                          > > bars? Or do people routinely use reducing sleeves to mount smaller shaft boring
                                          > > bars?
                                          > >
                                          > > The machines I'll be running this on are a Rockwell vertical mill and a full
                                          > > size Bridgeport clone.
                                          > >
                                          > > An example of one I am looking at is this:
                                          > > http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3662&category=
                                          > >
                                          > > Then, I see one on ebay with these specs:
                                          > >
                                          > > *
                                          > > Head = 3"
                                          > > *
                                          > > Boring Bar Hole = 3/4"
                                          > > *
                                          > > Cross Hole Diameter = 3/8"
                                          > > *
                                          > > Max. Offset = 1"
                                          > > *
                                          > > Thread Size = 1.5" - 18
                                          > > *
                                          > > Graduations = 0.001/0-50
                                          > > *
                                          > > Micrometer Lead Screw Provides 0.001" Direct Reading Accuracy and Ease of
                                          > > Adjusting
                                          > > *
                                          > > Double Bar Holder Permits a Greater Boring Range Without an Extreme Offset
                                          > > Condition
                                          > >
                                          > > Why is the cross hole 3/8 and the boring bar hole 3/4?
                                          > >
                                          > > There is much I need to learn about these things- I guess you can mount a boring
                                          > > bar vertically or horizontally.
                                          > > Thanks for any info.
                                          > >
                                          > > I don't have a large budget and I am not averse to lower price asian or Indian
                                          > > tooleing (I have some very nice pieces that were quite affordable). Is a boring
                                          > > head a case where it is worth spending a bit more money on a really good one?
                                          > >
                                          > > Lynn Kasdorf
                                          > >
                                          > >
                                          > >
                                          > >
                                          > >
                                          >
                                          > --
                                          > William Abernathy
                                          > Berkeley, CA
                                          > http://yourwritereditor.com
                                          >
                                        • Ramdog
                                          What you show from Little Machine Shop works fine for 99% of the jobs you need a boring head for. I think in the 30+ years of toolmaking and tool & die work, I
                                          Message 20 of 30 , Apr 25, 2013
                                            What you show from Little Machine Shop works fine for 99% of the jobs you need a boring head for. I think in the 30+ years of toolmaking and tool & die work, I may have used one that used the 3/4" boring bars only once or twice, the rest of the time, it was either one that used the 1/2" boring bars, or a few years back, I bought a smaller boring head that uses the 3/8" boring bars.

                                            What type of boring head are you using at the present? If things are sticking, maybe you have one of the lock screws dragging more than the others. I only snug them just a little and keep the screw tension for the adjustment screw just a little snug but not to the point that it sticks and then jumps. If it does, I make sure to back it off quite a ways and come back up to my mark so there is no chance of slop.

                                            Kevin

                                            --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, William Abernathy <william@...> wrote:
                                            >
                                            > I have a cheap boring head, and it works fine. provided the screw isn't sticky
                                            > and the graduations are on straight, even if it's wildly eccentric, it's still
                                            > going to work.
                                            >
                                            > Assuming you have a lathe, making a sleeve for the boring bar/socket interface
                                            > should be trivial.
                                            >
                                            > --W
                                            >
                                            > Lynn Kasdorf wrote:
                                            > >
                                            > >
                                            > > I am in need of an R8 boring head for making holes of arbitrary sizes, and for
                                            > > cutting arcs, and all the other things you can do with a boring head on a mill.
                                            > > I wonder if any of you can suggest a decent head or set in the <$100 range.
                                            > >
                                            > > Over the years I have accumulated a handful of carbide tip boring bars with
                                            > > 1/2" shanks as well as a number of smaller ones with 3/8" shanks. A number of
                                            > > the boring heads I see on ebay have 3/4" holes- I guess they require 3/4 boring
                                            > > bars? Or do people routinely use reducing sleeves to mount smaller shaft boring
                                            > > bars?
                                            > >
                                            > > The machines I'll be running this on are a Rockwell vertical mill and a full
                                            > > size Bridgeport clone.
                                            > >
                                            > > An example of one I am looking at is this:
                                            > > http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3662&category=
                                            > >
                                            > > Then, I see one on ebay with these specs:
                                            > >
                                            > > *
                                            > > Head = 3"
                                            > > *
                                            > > Boring Bar Hole = 3/4"
                                            > > *
                                            > > Cross Hole Diameter = 3/8"
                                            > > *
                                            > > Max. Offset = 1"
                                            > > *
                                            > > Thread Size = 1.5" - 18
                                            > > *
                                            > > Graduations = 0.001/0-50
                                            > > *
                                            > > Micrometer Lead Screw Provides 0.001" Direct Reading Accuracy and Ease of
                                            > > Adjusting
                                            > > *
                                            > > Double Bar Holder Permits a Greater Boring Range Without an Extreme Offset
                                            > > Condition
                                            > >
                                            > > Why is the cross hole 3/8 and the boring bar hole 3/4?
                                            > >
                                            > > There is much I need to learn about these things- I guess you can mount a boring
                                            > > bar vertically or horizontally.
                                            > > Thanks for any info.
                                            > >
                                            > > I don't have a large budget and I am not averse to lower price asian or Indian
                                            > > tooleing (I have some very nice pieces that were quite affordable). Is a boring
                                            > > head a case where it is worth spending a bit more money on a really good one?
                                            > >
                                            > > Lynn Kasdorf
                                            > >
                                            > >
                                            > >
                                            > >
                                            > >
                                            >
                                            > --
                                            > William Abernathy
                                            > Berkeley, CA
                                            > http://yourwritereditor.com
                                            >
                                          • Lynn Kasdorf
                                            I don t have a boring head at all currently. I have an assortment of 1/2 , 3/8 , and one or two 3/4 shank boring bars that I picked up over the years at
                                            Message 21 of 30 , Apr 25, 2013
                                              I don't have a boring head at all currently. I have an assortment of 1/2", 3/8", and one or two 3/4" shank boring bars that I picked up over the years at auctions, but no boring head to mount them in. I am building a CNC machine currently and I am finding a need to bore metric size holes in some pieces.

                                              Although I have had a mill and lathe or some sort since around 2000, I am just now getting more serious about machining and building more sophisticated stuff. I finally have a DRO on my Rockwell mill, for example!

                                              LK

                                              On 4/25/2013 9:58 AM, Ramdog wrote:
                                               

                                              What you show from Little Machine Shop works fine for 99% of the jobs you need a boring head for. I think in the 30+ years of toolmaking and tool & die work, I may have used one that used the 3/4" boring bars only once or twice, the rest of the time, it was either one that used the 1/2" boring bars, or a few years back, I bought a smaller boring head that uses the 3/8" boring bars.

                                              What type of boring head are you using at the present? If things are sticking, maybe you have one of the lock screws dragging more than the others. I only snug them just a little and keep the screw tension for the adjustment screw just a little snug but not to the point that it sticks and then jumps. If it does, I make sure to back it off quite a ways and come back up to my mark so there is no chance of slop.

                                              Kevin


                                            • Ramdog
                                              My mistake, I thought you had a boring head and were looking for another smaller one. The one you show would work fine for almost anything you are boring. If
                                              Message 22 of 30 , Apr 25, 2013
                                                My mistake, I thought you had a boring head and were looking for another smaller one. The one you show would work fine for almost anything you are boring. If the hole comes out to be a large diameter, you can put your boring bar in the side of the holder and bore that way. Just make sure you have clearance underneath. I've watched a few guys wreck them by not paying attention what was on the other side of the hole. Lol!!!

                                                --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, Lynn Kasdorf <kasdorfmisc@...> wrote:
                                                >
                                                > I don't have a boring head at all currently. I have an assortment of
                                                > 1/2", 3/8", and one or two 3/4" shank boring bars that I picked up over
                                                > the years at auctions, but no boring head to mount them in. I am
                                                > building a CNC machine currently and I am finding a need to bore metric
                                                > size holes in some pieces.
                                                >
                                                > Although I have had a mill and lathe or some sort since around 2000, I
                                                > am just now getting more serious about machining and building more
                                                > sophisticated stuff. I finally have a DRO on my Rockwell mill, for example!
                                                >
                                                > LK
                                                >
                                                > On 4/25/2013 9:58 AM, Ramdog wrote:
                                                > >
                                                > > What you show from Little Machine Shop works fine for 99% of the jobs
                                                > > you need a boring head for. I think in the 30+ years of toolmaking and
                                                > > tool & die work, I may have used one that used the 3/4" boring bars
                                                > > only once or twice, the rest of the time, it was either one that used
                                                > > the 1/2" boring bars, or a few years back, I bought a smaller boring
                                                > > head that uses the 3/8" boring bars.
                                                > >
                                                > > What type of boring head are you using at the present? If things are
                                                > > sticking, maybe you have one of the lock screws dragging more than the
                                                > > others. I only snug them just a little and keep the screw tension for
                                                > > the adjustment screw just a little snug but not to the point that it
                                                > > sticks and then jumps. If it does, I make sure to back it off quite a
                                                > > ways and come back up to my mark so there is no chance of slop.
                                                > >
                                                > > Kevin
                                                > >
                                                >
                                              • W. Smith
                                                I m with you Bill, boring the seat would be my first choice. Another Bill
                                                Message 23 of 30 , Apr 25, 2013
                                                  I'm with you Bill, boring the seat would be my first choice.

                                                  Another "Bill"

                                                  On 4/22/2013 12:36 PM, Bill wrote:
                                                  > Why would you not use a boring head?
                                                  >
                                                  >
                                                  >
                                                  > Bill
                                                  >
                                                • Bill
                                                  Here Here!!!! The Bills have spoken! The other Bill J From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of W. Smith Sent:
                                                  Message 24 of 30 , Apr 25, 2013

                                                    Here Here!!!!

                                                     

                                                    The Bills have spoken!

                                                     

                                                    The other Bill

                                                    J

                                                     

                                                    From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of W. Smith
                                                    Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2013 11:33 AM
                                                    To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                                                    Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Re: Chucking reamers

                                                     

                                                     

                                                    I'm with you Bill, boring the seat would be my first choice.

                                                    Another "Bill"

                                                    On 4/22/2013 12:36 PM, Bill wrote:
                                                    > Why would you not use a boring head?
                                                    >
                                                    >
                                                    >
                                                    > Bill
                                                    >


                                                    No virus found in this message.
                                                    Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
                                                    Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6269 - Release Date: 04/23/13

                                                  • FocusKnobs
                                                    That s fine - as long as no one *sends* us the Bill... From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bill Sent: Thursday,
                                                    Message 25 of 30 , Apr 25, 2013

                                                      That’s fine – as long as no one *sends* us the Bill…

                                                       

                                                      From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bill
                                                      Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2013 11:37 AM
                                                      To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                                                      Subject: RE: [mill_drill] Re: Chucking reamers

                                                       




                                                      Here Here!!!!

                                                       

                                                      The Bills have spoken!

                                                       

                                                      The other Bill

                                                      J

                                                       

                                                      From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of W. Smith
                                                      Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2013 11:33 AM
                                                      To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                                                      Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Re: Chucking reamers

                                                       

                                                       

                                                      I'm with you Bill, boring the seat would be my first choice.

                                                      Another "Bill"

                                                      On 4/22/2013 12:36 PM, Bill wrote:
                                                      > Why would you not use a boring head?
                                                      >
                                                      >
                                                      >
                                                      > Bill
                                                      >

                                                       


                                                      No virus found in this message.
                                                      Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
                                                      Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6269 - Release Date: 04/23/13




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