Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

RE: [mill_drill] r8 collets

Expand Messages
  • Bill
    See attached... I ve picked up R8 collets from Enco, MSC, Flea-Bay, here, there, and who knows where... J I ve had a few that didn t quite fit right. Depth of
    Message 1 of 53 , Mar 31 1:28 PM
    • 1 Attachment
    • 44 KB

    See attached…..

     

    I’ve picked up R8 collets from Enco, MSC, Flea-Bay, here, there, and who knows where….. J

     

    I’ve had a few that didn’t quite fit right. Depth of the keyway was the most common problem, but I also had a few that the .949”/.9495” diameter was as much as 6 tenths oversize.

    A bit filing, or polishing, fixed mine up.

     

    Happy measuring!

     

    Bill

    From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dana Hague
    Sent: Sunday, March 31, 2013 1:02 PM
    To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
    Subject: Re: [mill_drill] r8 collets

     

     

    At 03:34 PM 3/31/2013, davedigglar wrote:

     
    hi all ive recently bought some r8 collets for my rf30 and they are very tight to get in or out all my other tooling fits perfect has anyone else had this problem


    Had the same problem with a chuck adapter.  My toolmaker friend put it in his lathe and polished it ever so slightly, now it goes in fine.  Was a hair high right along the keyway.


    No virus found in this message.
    Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
    Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 2641/6195 - Release Date: 03/21/13
    Internal Virus Database is out of date.

  • Stan Stocker
    Hi Folks, I probably missed it, thought this was the thread about the pin being long in import mills. The drawbar may be too long, so the threads are
    Message 53 of 53 , Apr 2, 2013
    • 0 Attachment
      Hi Folks,

      I probably missed it, thought this was the thread about the pin being
      long in import mills. The drawbar may be too long, so the threads are
      bottoming out before you pull the collet closed. Add a few washers
      under the head if this is the case and see if it helps. You can make a
      shoulder washer for the top of the spindle for a nicer job.

      Stan

      On 04/02/2013 03:02 AM, John Herrmann wrote:
      > Robert -
      >
      > I know this is now a relatively old thread, and maybe you've found the solution already. Nevertheless, here's my two cents' worth:
      >
      > Given that
      > (1) your collets don't close when reefing on the drawbar
      > (2) you only see a small amount of taper contact when using dykem
      > (3) the collets seem to work OK when you wrap the taper
      >
      > I'd say that somebody's (sorry, forgot who first said it) suggestion about the collets being a bit too long has a lot of merit.
      >
      > You can check this pretty easily. Pick one of your new collets. Make sure there's no grit or burrs in the slots, and that you can close the slots by hand before putting it into the spindle. Now put the collet in the spindle *without* a mill inside. Tighten the drawbar (fingers should be enough). The gaps in the collet should close up pretty much all the way. If the drawbar seems to "hit bottom" (ie, become hard to rotate) before the collet closes, that's evidence the top of the collet is being stopped from moving upward as far as it should.
      >
      > If that's the case, you can try grinding a bit from the top of one collet and repeat the test. If it closes further or all the way, you've verified the problem and the fix. Proceed to grind all of them, and you're good to go!
      >
      > - John Herrmann
      >
    Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.