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Re: [mill_drill] New Y leadscrew nut for rf clone

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  • Curt Wuollet
    And now the rest of the story, below While I am still waiting for the steady rest from little machine shop, I got out the camera to get some pix of the
    Message 1 of 12 , Mar 17, 2013
    • 0 Attachment
      And now the rest of the story, below



      While I am still waiting for the steady rest from little
      machine shop, I got out the camera to get some pix
      of the project.

      Curt Wuollet wrote:
      >
      > Since the original was iron and broke, and iron isn't all that great an
      > idea anyway, and since finding a metric replacement or a tap or all
      > other alternatives are unattractive, I resolved to make an acetal
      > (Delrin) replacenent. To do this I ordered a 6" length of 1.5" black
      > acetal rod and resolved to make a carrier for it. Major problem, I don't
      > have a faceplate or 4 jaw chuck to bore the required hole in rectangular
      > stock. Second major problem, the Y leadscrew is too long for my little
      > 7x14 lathe. Can't really spring for a 4 jaw chuck right now, but the too
      > long problem can be solved with a steady rest.
      > Phase 1:The Carrier
      > Let's see, I need a chunk of metal with a flat base with a round
      > location button and a 1.25" or larger bore. The center of the bore has
      > to be 1.5" above the mounting surface. I was thinking cast iron so I
      > started looking at pipe fittings. A 1x1/2x1 reducing tee would have a
      > bore about that size and if I screwed a 1/2" to 1/4"reducing bushing in
      > the 1/2" center hole I have a flat surface that can be adjusted to 1.5".
      > 5 bucks later I had a proto.
      > The only way I could figure out to find a center in this non-precision
      > chunk of iron was to turn a mandrel from a piece of 1.25" aluminum until
      > it could just be screwed through the bore with a little force. I'm
      > calling the center of the mandrel my datum. I faced the ends and turned
      > the hubs concentric to the mandrel. With the Tee squared with the center
      > line and the ends faced, I could chuck it on the hub and bore the
      > threads out. I ended up with a bore about 1.320. I didn't dare open it
      > up much more lest I run out the side someplace. I worked the reducer
      > bushing in and out until I gor it's face close to 1.5" It will get faced
      > and the locator turned. I now have a custom cast iron insert carrier
      > with adjustable height or a really, really fancy pipe tee depending on
      > your point of view.
      >
      > Phase 2: The Acetal Leadscrew Insert
      >
      > This part involves boring the 1.5" acetal rod to a diameter halfway
      > between the major and minor diameters of the leadscrew then splitting it
      > the long way and thermoforming it around the leadscrew to produce
      > perfect matching threads. That's the easy part. Then I need to chuck the
      > leadscrew and turn the plastic on the screw to something like 1.320 to
      > fit the carrier. The leadscrew is too long for my lathe and the wife
      > wasn't amenable to buying a larger lathe to solve the problem. Framed
      > that way, she agreed that a steady rest was a lot cheaper, so I quickly
      > ordered the ball bearing one from Little Machine Shop.
      >
      > To be continued..............

      So I got the steady rest and continued The original plan was to make
      a long insert and shorten as needed. The forming and turning went well
      and the molded threads were perfect....So perfect in fact that the insert
      was one with hte shaft and nothing would budge it. OK, I made a second
      blank, this time shorter and I sprayed the shaft with dry graphite spray.
      I also made a form to keep the insert rounder. This time it would move
      and i spent a long time working it to get enough clearance.

      This would be much easier with a smooth and regular leadscrew.
      With the chinese leadscrew it produces a tighter fit than is really
      wanted, A thicker mold release would help. But I do have a zero
      backlash nut for my Y axis. Revised design pictured on the screw
      below.
      >
      > Regards
      >
      > cww
      >

      [IMG]http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo15/cwuollet/7x12/00004-1.jpg%5b/IMG]

      [IMG]http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo15/cwuollet/7x12/00005-1.jpg%5b/IMG]


      [IMG]http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo15/cwuollet/7x12/00002-2.jpg%5b/IMG]
    • Druid Noibn
      Hi Curt,   Very Nice!   Thanks for posting the picts!   Be well, DBN ... From: Curt Wuollet Subject: Re: [mill_drill] New Y
      Message 2 of 12 , Mar 17, 2013
      • 0 Attachment
        Hi Curt,
         
        Very Nice!
         
        Thanks for posting the picts!
         
        Be well,
        DBN

        --- On Sun, 3/17/13, Curt Wuollet <wideopen1@...> wrote:

        From: Curt Wuollet <wideopen1@...>
        Subject: Re: [mill_drill] New Y leadscrew nut for rf clone
        To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
        Date: Sunday, March 17, 2013, 3:03 PM

          And now the rest of the story, below



        While I am still waiting for the steady rest from little
        machine shop, I got out the camera to get some pix
        of the project.

        Curt Wuollet wrote:
        >
        > Since the original was iron and broke, and iron isn't all that great an
        > idea anyway, and since finding a metric replacement or a tap or all
        > other alternatives are unattractive, I resolved to make an acetal
        > (Delrin) replacenent. To do this I ordered a 6" length of 1.5" black
        > acetal rod and resolved to make a carrier for it. Major problem, I don't
        > have a faceplate or 4 jaw chuck to bore the required hole in rectangular
        > stock. Second major problem, the Y leadscrew is too long for my little
        > 7x14 lathe. Can't really spring for a 4 jaw chuck right now, but the too
        > long problem can be solved with a steady rest.
        > Phase 1:The Carrier
        > Let's see, I need a chunk of metal with a flat base with a round
        > location button and a 1.25" or larger bore. The center of the bore has
        > to be 1.5" above the mounting surface. I was thinking cast iron so I
        > started looking at pipe fittings. A 1x1/2x1 reducing tee would have a
        > bore about that size and if I screwed a 1/2" to 1/4"reducing bushing in
        > the 1/2" center hole I have a flat surface that can be adjusted to 1.5".
        > 5 bucks later I had a proto.
        > The only way I could figure out to find a center in this non-precision
        > chunk of iron was to turn a mandrel from a piece of 1.25" aluminum until
        > it could just be screwed through the bore with a little force. I'm
        > calling the center of the mandrel my datum. I faced the ends and turned
        > the hubs concentric to the mandrel. With the Tee squared with the center
        > line and the ends faced, I could chuck it on the hub and bore the
        > threads out. I ended up with a bore about 1.320. I didn't dare open it
        > up much more lest I run out the side someplace. I worked the reducer
        > bushing in and out until I gor it's face close to 1.5" It will get faced
        > and the locator turned. I now have a custom cast iron insert carrier
        > with adjustable height or a really, really fancy pipe tee depending on
        > your point of view.
        >
        > Phase 2: The Acetal Leadscrew Insert
        >
        > This part involves boring the 1.5" acetal rod to a diameter halfway
        > between the major and minor diameters of the leadscrew then splitting it
        > the long way and thermoforming it around the leadscrew to produce
        > perfect matching threads. That's the easy part. Then I need to chuck the
        > leadscrew and turn the plastic on the screw to something like 1.320 to
        > fit the carrier. The leadscrew is too long for my lathe and the wife
        > wasn't amenable to buying a larger lathe to solve the problem. Framed
        > that way, she agreed that a steady rest was a lot cheaper, so I quickly
        > ordered the ball bearing one from Little Machine Shop.
        >
        > To be continued..............

        So I got the steady rest and continued The original plan was to make
        a long insert and shorten as needed. The forming and turning went well
        and the molded threads were perfect....So perfect in fact that the insert
        was one with hte shaft and nothing would budge it. OK, I made a second
        blank, this time shorter and I sprayed the shaft with dry graphite spray.
        I also made a form to keep the insert rounder. This time it would move
        and i spent a long time working it to get enough clearance.

        This would be much easier with a smooth and regular leadscrew.
        With the chinese leadscrew it produces a tighter fit than is really
        wanted, A thicker mold release would help. But I do have a zero
        backlash nut for my Y axis. Revised design pictured on the screw
        below.
        >
        > Regards
        >
        > cww
        >

        [IMG]http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo15/cwuollet/7x12/00004-1.jpg[/IMG]

        [IMG]http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo15/cwuollet/7x12/00005-1.jpg[/IMG]


        [IMG]http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo15/cwuollet/7x12/00002-2.jpg[/IMG]



        ------------------------------------

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      • Curt Wuollet
        You re welcome and thanks. Maybe only worth doing if a replacement is inobtainium. But it can be done if need be and the plastic nut is really smooth.Needed to
        Message 3 of 12 , Mar 17, 2013
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          You're welcome and thanks.

          Maybe only worth doing if a replacement is inobtainium. But it can be
          done if need be and the plastic nut is really smooth.Needed to get it
          finished because I spotted an old Crafstman 6x18 lathe locally...........:^)

          Regards

          cww


          Druid Noibn wrote:
          >
          > Hi Curt,
          > Very Nice!
          > Thanks for posting the picts!
          > Be well,
          > DBN
          >
          > --- On *Sun, 3/17/13, Curt Wuollet /<wideopen1@...>/* wrote:
          >
          >
          > From: Curt Wuollet <wideopen1@...>
          > Subject: Re: [mill_drill] New Y leadscrew nut for rf clone
          > To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
          > Date: Sunday, March 17, 2013, 3:03 PM
          >
          > And now the rest of the story, below
          >
          >
          >
          > While I am still waiting for the steady rest from little
          > machine shop, I got out the camera to get some pix
          > of the project.
          >
          > Curt Wuollet wrote:
          > >
          > > Since the original was iron and broke, and iron isn't all that
          > great an
          > > idea anyway, and since finding a metric replacement or a tap or all
          > > other alternatives are unattractive, I resolved to make an acetal
          > > (Delrin) replacenent. To do this I ordered a 6" length of 1.5" black
          > > acetal rod and resolved to make a carrier for it. Major problem,
          > I don't
          > > have a faceplate or 4 jaw chuck to bore the required hole in
          > rectangular
          > > stock. Second major problem, the Y leadscrew is too long for my
          > little
          > > 7x14 lathe. Can't really spring for a 4 jaw chuck right now, but
          > the too
          > > long problem can be solved with a steady rest.
          > > Phase 1:The Carrier
          > > Let's see, I need a chunk of metal with a flat base with a round
          > > location button and a 1.25" or larger bore. The center of the
          > bore has
          > > to be 1.5" above the mounting surface. I was thinking cast iron so I
          > > started looking at pipe fittings. A 1x1/2x1 reducing tee would
          > have a
          > > bore about that size and if I screwed a 1/2" to 1/4"reducing
          > bushing in
          > > the 1/2" center hole I have a flat surface that can be adjusted
          > to 1.5".
          > > 5 bucks later I had a proto.
          > > The only way I could figure out to find a center in this
          > non-precision
          > > chunk of iron was to turn a mandrel from a piece of 1.25"
          > aluminum until
          > > it could just be screwed through the bore with a little force. I'm
          > > calling the center of the mandrel my datum. I faced the ends and
          > turned
          > > the hubs concentric to the mandrel. With the Tee squared with
          > the center
          > > line and the ends faced, I could chuck it on the hub and bore the
          > > threads out. I ended up with a bore about 1.320. I didn't dare
          > open it
          > > up much more lest I run out the side someplace. I worked the reducer
          > > bushing in and out until I gor it's face close to 1.5" It will
          > get faced
          > > and the locator turned. I now have a custom cast iron insert carrier
          > > with adjustable height or a really, really fancy pipe tee
          > depending on
          > > your point of view.
          > >
          > > Phase 2: The Acetal Leadscrew Insert
          > >
          > > This part involves boring the 1.5" acetal rod to a diameter halfway
          > > between the major and minor diameters of the leadscrew then
          > splitting it
          > > the long way and thermoforming it around the leadscrew to produce
          > > perfect matching threads. That's the easy part. Then I need to
          > chuck the
          > > leadscrew and turn the plastic on the screw to something like
          > 1.320 to
          > > fit the carrier. The leadscrew is too long for my lathe and the wife
          > > wasn't amenable to buying a larger lathe to solve the problem.
          > Framed
          > > that way, she agreed that a steady rest was a lot cheaper, so I
          > quickly
          > > ordered the ball bearing one from Little Machine Shop.
          > >
          > > To be continued..............
          >
          > So I got the steady rest and continued The original plan was to make
          > a long insert and shorten as needed. The forming and turning went well
          > and the molded threads were perfect....So perfect in fact that the
          > insert
          > was one with hte shaft and nothing would budge it. OK, I made a second
          > blank, this time shorter and I sprayed the shaft with dry graphite
          > spray.
          > I also made a form to keep the insert rounder. This time it would move
          > and i spent a long time working it to get enough clearance.
          >
          > This would be much easier with a smooth and regular leadscrew.
          > With the chinese leadscrew it produces a tighter fit than is really
          > wanted, A thicker mold release would help. But I do have a zero
          > backlash nut for my Y axis. Revised design pictured on the screw
          > below.
          > >
          > > Regards
          > >
          > > cww
          > >
          >
          > [IMG]http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo15/cwuollet/7x12/00004-1.jpg%5b/IMG]
          >
          > [IMG]http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo15/cwuollet/7x12/00005-1.jpg%5b/IMG]
          >
          >
          > [IMG]http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo15/cwuollet/7x12/00002-2.jpg%5b/IMG]
          >
          >
          >
          > ------------------------------------
          >
          > Yahoo! Groups Links
          >
          >
          >
          > mill_drill-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
          > <http://us.mc1252.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=mill_drill-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com>
          >
          >
          >
        • Druid Noibn
          Hi Curt,   Well-stated and the impetus is well-recognized.   Be well, DBN ... From: Curt Wuollet Subject: Re: [mill_drill] New Y
          Message 4 of 12 , Mar 17, 2013
          • 0 Attachment
            Hi Curt,
             
            Well-stated and the impetus is well-recognized.
             
            Be well,
            DBN

            --- On Sun, 3/17/13, Curt Wuollet <wideopen1@...> wrote:

            From: Curt Wuollet <wideopen1@...>
            Subject: Re: [mill_drill] New Y leadscrew nut for rf clone
            To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
            Date: Sunday, March 17, 2013, 4:52 PM

            You're welcome and thanks.

            Maybe only worth doing if a replacement is inobtainium. But it can be
            done if need be and the plastic nut is really smooth.Needed to get it
            finished because I spotted an old Crafstman 6x18 lathe locally...........:^)

            Regards

            cww


            Druid Noibn wrote:
            >
            > Hi Curt,
            > Very Nice!
            > Thanks for posting the picts!
            > Be well,
            > DBN
            >
            > --- On *Sun, 3/17/13, Curt Wuollet /<wideopen1@...>/* wrote:
            >
            >
            >     From: Curt Wuollet <wideopen1@...>
            >     Subject: Re: [mill_drill] New Y leadscrew nut for rf clone
            >     To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
            >     Date: Sunday, March 17, 2013, 3:03 PM
            >
            >     And now the rest of the story, below
            >
            >
            >
            >     While I am still waiting for the steady rest from little
            >     machine shop, I got out the camera to get some pix
            >     of the project.
            >
            >     Curt Wuollet wrote:
            >     >
            >     > Since the original was iron and broke, and iron isn't all that
            >     great an
            >     > idea anyway, and since finding a metric replacement or a tap or all
            >     > other alternatives are unattractive, I resolved to make an acetal
            >     > (Delrin) replacenent. To do this I ordered a 6" length of 1.5" black
            >     > acetal rod and resolved to make a carrier for it. Major problem,
            >     I don't
            >     > have a faceplate or 4 jaw chuck to bore the required hole in
            >     rectangular
            >     > stock. Second major problem, the Y leadscrew is too long for my
            >     little
            >     > 7x14 lathe. Can't really spring for a 4 jaw chuck right now, but
            >     the too
            >     > long problem can be solved with a steady rest.
            >     > Phase 1:The Carrier
            >     > Let's see, I need a chunk of metal with a flat base with a round
            >     > location button and a 1.25" or larger bore. The center of the
            >     bore has
            >     > to be 1.5" above the mounting surface. I was thinking cast iron so I
            >     > started looking at pipe fittings. A 1x1/2x1 reducing tee would
            >     have a
            >     > bore about that size and if I screwed a 1/2" to 1/4"reducing
            >     bushing in
            >     > the 1/2" center hole I have a flat surface that can be adjusted
            >     to 1.5".
            >     > 5 bucks later I had a proto.
            >     > The only way I could figure out to find a center in this
            >     non-precision
            >     > chunk of iron was to turn a mandrel from a piece of 1.25"
            >     aluminum until
            >     > it could just be screwed through the bore with a little force. I'm
            >     > calling the center of the mandrel my datum. I faced the ends and
            >     turned
            >     > the hubs concentric to the mandrel. With the Tee squared with
            >     the center
            >     > line and the ends faced, I could chuck it on the hub and bore the
            >     > threads out. I ended up with a bore about 1.320. I didn't dare
            >     open it
            >     > up much more lest I run out the side someplace. I worked the reducer
            >     > bushing in and out until I gor it's face close to 1.5" It will
            >     get faced
            >     > and the locator turned. I now have a custom cast iron insert carrier
            >     > with adjustable height or a really, really fancy pipe tee
            >     depending on
            >     > your point of view.
            >     >
            >     > Phase 2: The Acetal Leadscrew Insert
            >     >
            >     > This part involves boring the 1.5" acetal rod to a diameter halfway
            >     > between the major and minor diameters of the leadscrew then
            >     splitting it
            >     > the long way and thermoforming it around the leadscrew to produce
            >     > perfect matching threads. That's the easy part. Then I need to
            >     chuck the
            >     > leadscrew and turn the plastic on the screw to something like
            >     1.320 to
            >     > fit the carrier. The leadscrew is too long for my lathe and the wife
            >     > wasn't amenable to buying a larger lathe to solve the problem.
            >     Framed
            >     > that way, she agreed that a steady rest was a lot cheaper, so I
            >     quickly
            >     > ordered the ball bearing one from Little Machine Shop.
            >     >
            >     > To be continued..............
            >
            >     So I got the steady rest and continued The original plan was to make
            >     a long insert and shorten as needed. The forming and turning went well
            >     and the molded threads were perfect....So perfect in fact that the
            >     insert
            >     was one with hte shaft and nothing would budge it. OK, I made a second
            >     blank, this time shorter and I sprayed the shaft with dry graphite
            >     spray.
            >     I also made a form to keep the insert rounder. This time it would move
            >     and i spent a long time working it to get enough clearance.
            >
            >     This would be much easier with a smooth and regular leadscrew.
            >     With the chinese leadscrew it produces a tighter fit than is really
            >     wanted, A thicker mold release would help. But I do have a zero
            >     backlash nut for my Y axis. Revised design pictured on the screw
            >     below.
            >     >
            >     > Regards
            >     >
            >     > cww
            >     >
            >
            >     [IMG]http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo15/cwuollet/7x12/00004-1.jpg[/IMG]
            >
            >     [IMG]http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo15/cwuollet/7x12/00005-1.jpg[/IMG]
            >
            >
            >     [IMG]http://i357.photobucket.com/albums/oo15/cwuollet/7x12/00002-2.jpg[/IMG]
            >
            >
            >
            >     ------------------------------------
            >
            >     Yahoo! Groups Links
            >
            >
            >
            >     mill_drill-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
            >     <http://us.mc1252.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=mill_drill-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com>
            >
            >
            >



            ------------------------------------

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          • leasingham_connelly
            I have just finished making a replacement X axis nut for someone else s machine. Their old brass nut was wearing and causing increasing backlash, the backlash
            Message 5 of 12 , Mar 20, 2013
            • 0 Attachment
              I have just finished making a replacement X axis nut for someone else's machine. Their old brass nut was wearing and causing increasing backlash, the backlash elimination method of closing the gap wears the thread away quickly on the short length that is bent to close the clearance down. The nut is cast iron which is what my brass one was replaced with after the threads on my old brass one ended up shearing having become paper thin in parts. The thread is M24 x 3 trapezoidal and was cut with a home made HSS tool. Started cutting raw material on Friday evening, about 8 hours Saturday then finished the item with 2 hours of work on Sunday. I have put a photo in the files in a folder called 33686 "X" nut that was started by someone else with just one photo in it.

              Martin
            • Druid Noibn
              Hi Martin,   That sounds like a project of love...   There is one trait a good machinist must have - patience.    Be well, DBN ... From:
              Message 6 of 12 , Mar 20, 2013
              • 0 Attachment
                Hi Martin,
                 
                That sounds like a project of love...
                 
                There is one trait a good machinist must have - patience. 
                 
                Be well,
                DBN

                --- On Wed, 3/20/13, leasingham_connelly <martin@...> wrote:

                From: leasingham_connelly <martin@...>
                Subject: [mill_drill] Re: New Y leadscrew nut for rf clone
                To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                Date: Wednesday, March 20, 2013, 11:21 AM

                 
                I have just finished making a replacement X axis nut for someone else's machine. Their old brass nut was wearing and causing increasing backlash, the backlash elimination method of closing the gap wears the thread away quickly on the short length that is bent to close the clearance down. The nut is cast iron which is what my brass one was replaced with after the threads on my old brass one ended up shearing having become paper thin in parts. The thread is M24 x 3 trapezoidal and was cut with a home made HSS tool. Started cutting raw material on Friday evening, about 8 hours Saturday then finished the item with 2 hours of work on Sunday. I have put a photo in the files in a folder called 33686 "X" nut that was started by someone else with just one photo in it.

                Martin

              • Guenther Paul
                Martin Did you consider a ball screw and nut  GP ________________________________ From: leasingham_connelly To:
                Message 7 of 12 , Mar 20, 2013
                • 0 Attachment
                  Martin
                  Did you consider a ball screw and nut
                   
                  GP



                  From: leasingham_connelly <martin@...>
                  To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                  Sent: Wed, March 20, 2013 11:21:47 AM
                  Subject: [mill_drill] Re: New Y leadscrew nut for rf clone

                   

                  I have just finished making a replacement X axis nut for someone else's machine. Their old brass nut was wearing and causing increasing backlash, the backlash elimination method of closing the gap wears the thread away quickly on the short length that is bent to close the clearance down. The nut is cast iron which is what my brass one was replaced with after the threads on my old brass one ended up shearing having become paper thin in parts. The thread is M24 x 3 trapezoidal and was cut with a home made HSS tool. Started cutting raw material on Friday evening, about 8 hours Saturday then finished the item with 2 hours of work on Sunday. I have put a photo in the files in a folder called 33686 "X" nut that was started by someone else with just one photo in it.

                  Martin

                • leasingham_connelly
                  I have replaced my leadscrews with ballscrews and nuts some time after I replaced the x axis nut on my machine. The work involved and the cost was higher than
                  Message 8 of 12 , Mar 21, 2013
                  • 0 Attachment
                    I have replaced my leadscrews with ballscrews and nuts some time after I replaced the x axis nut on my machine. The work involved and the cost was higher than that required to make a new nut from spare cast iron stock for the other machine. My old nut is 10 TPI so could not be used for the metric leadscrew and my old leadscrew was not a direct replacement since it is about 3" shorter than the metric one. I didn't bother trying to find out if the bearings were the same bore but thought they would be different, one in mm one in inches. The new nut was the cheapest and quickest option to get the backlash back to an acceptable point.

                    Martin


                    --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, Guenther Paul <paulguenter@...> wrote:
                    >
                    > Martin
                    > Did you consider a ball screw and nut
                    >  GP
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    > ________________________________
                    > From: leasingham_connelly <martin@...>
                    > To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                    > Sent: Wed, March 20, 2013 11:21:47 AM
                    > Subject: [mill_drill] Re: New Y leadscrew nut for rf clone
                    >
                    >  
                    > I have just finished making a replacement X axis nut for someone else's machine.
                    > Their old brass nut was wearing and causing increasing backlash, the backlash
                    > elimination method of closing the gap wears the thread away quickly on the short
                    > length that is bent to close the clearance down. The nut is cast iron which is
                    > what my brass one was replaced with after the threads on my old brass one ended
                    > up shearing having become paper thin in parts. The thread is M24 x 3 trapezoidal
                    > and was cut with a home made HSS tool. Started cutting raw material on Friday
                    > evening, about 8 hours Saturday then finished the item with 2 hours of work on
                    > Sunday. I have put a photo in the files in a folder called 33686 "X" nut that
                    > was started by someone else with just one photo in it.
                    >
                    > Martin
                    >
                  • Guenther Paul
                    Martin I have a big red mill/drill i bought cheap a few weeks ago, it was hardly used. So far all the screws are fine but i want to convert the wanna be mill
                    Message 9 of 12 , Mar 21, 2013
                    • 0 Attachment
                      Martin
                      I have a big red mill/drill i bought cheap a few weeks ago, it was hardly used. So far all the screws are fine but i want to convert the wanna be mill to a CNC some time soon. I was planning to make the ball screws. McMaster Carr has all the materials.
                      I am now in the process to make a quill fine down feed witch the machine never had
                      GP



                      From: leasingham_connelly <martin@...>
                      To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                      Sent: Thu, March 21, 2013 10:51:16 AM
                      Subject: [mill_drill] Re: New Y leadscrew nut for rf clone

                       

                      I have replaced my leadscrews with ballscrews and nuts some time after I replaced the x axis nut on my machine. The work involved and the cost was higher than that required to make a new nut from spare cast iron stock for the other machine. My old nut is 10 TPI so could not be used for the metric leadscrew and my old leadscrew was not a direct replacement since it is about 3" shorter than the metric one. I didn't bother trying to find out if the bearings were the same bore but thought they would be different, one in mm one in inches. The new nut was the cheapest and quickest option to get the backlash back to an acceptable point.

                      Martin

                      --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, Guenther Paul <paulguenter@...> wrote:
                      >
                      > Martin
                      > Did you consider a ball screw and nut
                      >  GP
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      >
                      > ________________________________
                      > From: leasingham_connelly <martin@...>
                      > To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                      > Sent: Wed, March 20, 2013 11:21:47 AM
                      > Subject: [mill_drill] Re: New Y leadscrew nut for rf clone
                      >
                      >  
                      > I have just finished making a replacement X axis nut for someone else's machine.
                      > Their old brass nut was wearing and causing increasing backlash, the backlash
                      > elimination method of closing the gap wears the thread away quickly on the short
                      > length that is bent to close the clearance down. The nut is cast iron which is
                      > what my brass one was replaced with after the threads on my old brass one ended
                      > up shearing having become paper thin in parts. The thread is M24 x 3 trapezoidal
                      > and was cut with a home made HSS tool. Started cutting raw material on Friday
                      > evening, about 8 hours Saturday then finished the item with 2 hours of work on
                      > Sunday. I have put a photo in the files in a folder called 33686 "X" nut that
                      > was started by someone else with just one photo in it.
                      >
                      > Martin
                      >

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