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Re: [mill_drill] bonding acetal

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  • Arthur Marks
    what about grooving the OD on the metal part, make the acetal oversized, heat the acetal so it conforms to the grooves, and finish to final size? -Arthur
    Message 1 of 23 , Mar 4, 2013
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      what about grooving the OD on the metal part, make the acetal oversized, heat the acetal so it conforms to the grooves, and finish to final size?  -Arthur
    • Jerry Durand
      ... No, the metal is pre-made. :( The most I can do is sand the metal. -- Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com tel: +1 408 356-3886,
      Message 2 of 23 , Mar 4, 2013
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        On 03/04/2013 04:54 PM, curtisleo@... wrote:
        > Can you put a barb around the edge? I did that for one job bonding acetal
        > to AL.
        >

        No, the metal is pre-made. :( The most I can do is sand the metal.

        --
        Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com
        tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
        Skype: jerrydurand
      • Jerry Durand
        ... The metal is an off-the-shelf rectangular connector that s intended to go into an injection molded housing that holds it in place. My customer s project
        Message 3 of 23 , Mar 4, 2013
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          On 03/04/2013 04:56 PM, Arthur Marks wrote:
          what about grooving the OD on the metal part, make the acetal oversized, heat the acetal so it conforms to the grooves, and finish to final size?  -Arthur

          The metal is an off-the-shelf rectangular connector that's intended to go into an injection molded housing that holds it in place.  My customer's project needs these mounted in the acetal bit I'm making and I can't cradle it the same.
          -- 
          Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc.  www.interstellar.com
          tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
          Skype:  jerrydurand 
          
        • Corey Renner
          I ve spent a decent amount of effort trying to bond acetal, nothing that I ve tried gives satisfactory results (JB Weld, epoxy, cyanoacrylate, roughing the
          Message 4 of 23 , Mar 4, 2013
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            I've spent a decent amount of effort trying to bond acetal, nothing that I've tried gives satisfactory results (JB Weld, epoxy, cyanoacrylate, roughing the surface, etc.)  Some will appear to bond, but any mild type of shock will quickly detach the resin from the acetal.  If you must use that material, you'll need to engineer something (a lip, or grooove, etc.) to mechanically hold it in-place.

            cheers,
            c

            On Mon, Mar 4, 2013 at 6:04 PM, Jerry Durand <jdurand@...> wrote:
             


            On 03/04/2013 04:56 PM, Arthur Marks wrote:
            what about grooving the OD on the metal part, make the acetal oversized, heat the acetal so it conforms to the grooves, and finish to final size?  -Arthur

            The metal is an off-the-shelf rectangular connector that's intended to go into an injection molded housing that holds it in place.  My customer's project needs these mounted in the acetal bit I'm making and I can't cradle it the same.

            -- 
            Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc.  www.interstellar.com
            tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
            Skype:  jerrydurand 
            


          • Dana Hague
            What does the OD of the metal part look like? As already pointed out, acetal doesn t bond well to anything. One common way to lock metal inserts in to
            Message 5 of 23 , Mar 4, 2013
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              What does the OD of the metal part look like?  As already pointed out, acetal doesn't bond well to anything.  One common way to lock metal inserts in to plastics is to knurl or groove the outside of the insert and install into a slightly undersized hole using heat (you heat the metal insert while pressing it in).



              At 07:43 PM 3/4/2013, Jerry Durand wrote:
               

              On 03/04/2013 04:39 PM, curtisleo@... wrote:
              > Can you make it a press fit? Acetal doesn't glue well.
              >
              > Curtis
              >

              I can make it snug, but not a press fit. I CAN have a lip on the
              outside to hold the metal from being pressed in and it can extend past
              the plastic a little in the rear. I was thinking maybe just press the
              JB Weld against the metal to form a lip so it can't be pulled back out.
              Not the most elegant but it seems like it should work since it wouldn't
              matter if the glue sticks to the acetal as long as it's tight to the metal.

              --
              Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com
              tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
              Skype: jerrydurand

            • Jerry Durand
              ... It s a rectangular metal tube made of thin steel (about 0.015 ) that s been tin plated. Look at something like a USB plug, that s typical of how a lot of
              Message 6 of 23 , Mar 4, 2013
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                On 03/04/2013 05:56 PM, Dana Hague wrote:
                What does the OD of the metal part look like?  As already pointed out, acetal doesn't bond well to anything.  One common way to lock metal inserts in to plastics is to knurl or groove the outside of the insert and install into a slightly undersized hole using heat (you heat the metal insert while pressing it in).

                It's a rectangular metal tube made of thin steel (about 0.015") that's been tin plated.  Look at something like a USB plug, that's typical of how a lot of connectors are made.

                I'm pretty sure I'll be able to just glue the part on the inside so it can't pull out.  It won't push in since it has a lip.  So, a fillet of glue that's actually only sticking to the metal should work.

                -- 
                Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc.  www.interstellar.com
                tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
                Skype:  jerrydurand
              • Curt Wuollet
                Interesting that this came up. I m making a new leadscrew nut for my Y axis out of acetal by the thermoforming route. I plan to install it in the carrier with
                Message 7 of 23 , Mar 4, 2013
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                  Interesting that this came up. I'm making a new leadscrew nut for my
                  Y axis out of acetal by the thermoforming route. I plan to install it in
                  the
                  carrier with epoxy. The carrier is a rough casting, so that should stick
                  well
                  if I can get all the oil out of it. I will turn grooves in the acetal
                  insert so
                  it doesn't depend on adhesion. The problem with acetal is that it's soft
                  and malleable so it's like gluing rubber. If the bond can't flex it just
                  peels away. I expect a urethane adhesive might work if they are at
                  all compatible.

                  Regards

                  cww

                  Jerry Durand wrote:
                  >
                  > On 03/04/2013 04:39 PM, curtisleo@...
                  > <mailto:curtisleo%40leo-tech.com> wrote:
                  > > Can you make it a press fit? Acetal doesn't glue well.
                  > >
                  > > Curtis
                  > >
                  >
                  > I can make it snug, but not a press fit. I CAN have a lip on the
                  > outside to hold the metal from being pressed in and it can extend past
                  > the plastic a little in the rear. I was thinking maybe just press the
                  > JB Weld against the metal to form a lip so it can't be pulled back out.
                  > Not the most elegant but it seems like it should work since it wouldn't
                  > matter if the glue sticks to the acetal as long as it's tight to the
                  > metal.
                  >
                  > --
                  > Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com
                  > tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
                  > Skype: jerrydurand
                  >
                  >
                • Dana Hague
                  You might look into products from Master Bond ; they have specialized epoxies for bonding a lot of different materials-- even teflon-- to metal. What is
                  Message 8 of 23 , Mar 5, 2013
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                    You might look into products from "Master Bond"; they have specialized epoxies for bonding a lot of different materials-- even teflon-- to metal.  What is needed is an epoxy that stays pliable, so it flexes with the softer material.

                    BTW, somebody mentioned JB Weld and many people talk of it as if it's magic... it's not.  It's just ordinary epoxy mixed with metal powder to make it somewhat stronger and more rigid.  An advantage in some metal bonding applications, yes, but probably _worse_ for gluing a softer material.

                    But wouldn't a plastic leadscrew nut deform under load, enough to spoil accuracy?  I would think you'd get a lot of chatter.

                    Dana

                    At 11:55 PM 3/4/2013, Curt Wuollet wrote:
                    Interesting that this came up. I'm making a new leadscrew nut for my
                    Y axis out of acetal by the thermoforming route. I plan to install it in
                    the
                    carrier with epoxy. The carrier is a rough casting, so that should stick
                    well
                    if I can get all the oil out of it. I will turn grooves in the acetal
                    insert so
                    it doesn't depend on adhesion. The problem with acetal is that it's soft
                    and malleable so it's like gluing rubber. If the bond can't flex it just
                    peels away. I expect a urethane adhesive might work if they are at
                    all compatible.

                    --
                    Civilization is the process of setting man free from men.
                  • Paul
                    Try geocel 2300 it s a tripolymer sealant used for roofing and general construction ....sold in a caulking tube at lumber yards and roofing supply
                    Message 9 of 23 , Mar 5, 2013
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                      Try  “geocel 2300 “  it’s a tripolymer   sealant  used for roofing and general construction ……..sold in a  caulking tube at lumber yards and roofing supply   ….…....i  have found that it adheres  to everything

                       

                       

                      Also” pc-11 “   marine epoxy .it’s hard as a rock when cured …..easier to use and better than jb weld in my opinion ……website states it’s limitations ... ….sold at paint stores

                       

                      Good luck paul

                    • Guenther Paul
                      Goggle has several products listed for bonding acetal to metal.I would stay away from lumber yard products. One suggestion i will always try to use a
                      Message 10 of 23 , Mar 5, 2013
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                        Goggle has several products listed for bonding acetal to metal.I would stay away from lumber yard products. One suggestion i will always try to use a mechanical fastener with the bonding agent with any plastic type product bonded to metal 
                        GP



                        From: Paul <pdolb@...>
                        To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                        Sent: Tue, March 5, 2013 7:41:40 AM
                        Subject: Re: [mill_drill] bonding acetal

                         

                        Try  “geocel 2300 “  it’s a tripolymer   sealant  used for roofing and general construction ……..sold in a  caulking tube at lumber yards and roofing supply   ….…....i  have found that it adheres  to everything

                         

                         

                        Also” pc-11 “   marine epoxy .it’s hard as a rock when cured …..easier to use and better than jb weld in my opinion ……website states it’s limitations ... ….sold at paint stores

                         

                        Good luck paul

                      • Curt Wuollet
                        Actually the plastic does deform. Elastic deformation until the entire thread carries the load. Plastic deformation would require several tons, long after the
                        Message 11 of 23 , Mar 5, 2013
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                          Actually the plastic does deform. Elastic deformation until the entire
                          thread carries the load. Plastic
                          deformation would require several tons, long after the end mill packed
                          it in. They give a ton as
                          working load. The crude iron original would be chewing up the screw and
                          itself, The acetal nut
                          does neither, it just fits better. And because it is molded to the
                          particular screw, the backlash is
                          close to zero. In fact, after you mold it you need to chase it until it
                          will turn reasonably easy.
                          Even if the screw is a bit worn, the plastic nut will contact the unworn
                          part because of the exact fit.

                          Here's a link to the fascinating discussion:

                          http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/threads/43645-Making-Acetal-leadscrew-nuts-the-easy-way

                          Regards

                          cww
                          Dana Hague wrote:
                          >
                          > You might look into products from "Master Bond"; they have specialized
                          > epoxies for bonding a lot of different materials-- even teflon-- to
                          > metal. What is needed is an epoxy that stays pliable, so it flexes
                          > with the softer material.
                          >
                          > BTW, somebody mentioned JB Weld and many people talk of it as if it's
                          > magic... it's not. It's just ordinary epoxy mixed with metal powder to
                          > make it somewhat stronger and more rigid. An advantage in some metal
                          > bonding applications, yes, but probably _worse_ for gluing a softer
                          > material.
                          >
                          > But wouldn't a plastic leadscrew nut deform under load, enough to
                          > spoil accuracy? I would think you'd get a lot of chatter.
                          >
                          > Dana
                          >
                          > At 11:55 PM 3/4/2013, Curt Wuollet wrote:
                          >> Interesting that this came up. I'm making a new leadscrew nut for my
                          >> Y axis out of acetal by the thermoforming route. I plan to install it in
                          >> the
                          >> carrier with epoxy. The carrier is a rough casting, so that should stick
                          >> well
                          >> if I can get all the oil out of it. I will turn grooves in the acetal
                          >> insert so
                          >> it doesn't depend on adhesion. The problem with acetal is that it's soft
                          >> and malleable so it's like gluing rubber. If the bond can't flex it just
                          >> peels away. I expect a urethane adhesive might work if they are at
                          >> all compatible.
                          >
                          > --
                          > Civilization is the process of setting man free from men.
                          >
                        • uhmgawa
                          ... That (or knurling) the mating surface with a hot press fit into the acetal is about the only right way to do this. Even acetal/delrin manufacturer s
                          Message 12 of 23 , Mar 5, 2013
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                            --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, Arthur Marks <arthur.marks@...> wrote:
                            >
                            > what about grooving the OD on the metal part, make the acetal oversized,
                            > heat the acetal so it conforms to the grooves, and finish to final size?

                            That (or knurling) the mating surface with a hot press fit into the
                            acetal is about the only right way to do this. Even acetal/delrin
                            manufacturer's adhesive solutions are documented to create a relatively
                            weak bond due to the material's low surface energy. If you need an
                            adhesive bond, acetal is probably the wrong material from that
                            perspective.

                            Can the OP quantify exactly what force the metal insert will be
                            subjected to, particularly both push-through and pull-out as well
                            as the external dimensions of the metal insert and acetal plug?
                            If there is enough clearance it may be possible to avoid milling
                            the metal sleeve and machine an intermediate collar milled to
                            receive the metal insert, with a circular OD which can be either
                            threaded or knurled for a hot press fit. Afterwards the sleeve
                            can be dropped into a slot milled in the collar and set with
                            adhesive (epoxy, anaerobic compound, etc..).
                          • carlmciver
                            I had a really tough challenge recently where I had to seal up various plastic tubes, mostly exotics, have great electrical resistivity, a little bit soft,
                            Message 13 of 23 , Mar 5, 2013
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                              I had a really tough challenge recently where I had to seal up various plastic tubes, mostly exotics, have great electrical resistivity, a little bit soft, impact resistance, and other weird requirements. I settled on hot glue. Folks looked at me funny, but it's worked like a champ so far.

                              It's important to think of hot glue as a low temp thermoplastic, and once that light comes on, the thinking shift begins.

                              Granted, I didn't pick the stuff available from a million sources, but it's pretty close. Slightly compliant and sticks really well to most plastics and metals, providing you get it on hot enough so that there's some good bonding.

                              I like it so much I'm using it for more and more stuff. Next best thing to gaffer's tape.


                              --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, Jerry Durand <jdurand@...> wrote:
                              >
                              > I have to make up a small pile of items for a customer and need to hold
                              > a metal part into an acetal plug. It doesn't need to be water tight or
                              > anything, but needs to hold with the customer attaching and detaching a
                              > cable from the metal.
                              > The plug will be first made on the lathe, then I'll use the mill to make
                              > the rectangular hole for the metal.
                              >
                              > So, I was thinking a glue would be good (it would be really hard to use
                              > fasteners for this). I just set up a test with some scrap acetal and
                              > some JB Weld I have open (metal weld and plastic weld) as well as
                              > Loctite gel super glue.
                              >
                              > Any thoughts on anything better to hold this together?
                              >
                              > --
                              > Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com
                              > tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
                              > Skype: jerrydurand
                              >
                            • curtis95033
                              Hot glue is great. I use it for holding electrical connectors in sockets and high vibration locations. A lot of electrical equipment have dabs of hot glue all
                              Message 14 of 23 , Mar 5, 2013
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                                Hot glue is great. I use it for holding electrical connectors in sockets
                                and high vibration locations. A lot of electrical equipment have dabs of
                                hot glue all over.

                                On Tue, March 5, 2013 10:15 am, carlmciver wrote:
                                > I had a really tough challenge recently where I had to seal up various
                                > plastic tubes, mostly exotics, have great electrical resistivity, a
                                > little bit soft, impact resistance, and other weird requirements. I
                                > settled on hot glue. Folks looked at me funny, but it's worked like a
                                > champ so far.
                                >
                                > It's important to think of hot glue as a low temp thermoplastic, and once
                                > that light comes on, the thinking shift begins.
                                >
                                > Granted, I didn't pick the stuff available from a million sources, but
                                > it's pretty close. Slightly compliant and sticks really well to most
                                > plastics and metals, providing you get it on hot enough so that there's
                                > some good bonding.
                                >
                                > I like it so much I'm using it for more and more stuff. Next best thing
                                > to gaffer's tape.
                                >
                                >
                                > --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, Jerry Durand <jdurand@...> wrote:
                                >
                                >>
                                >> I have to make up a small pile of items for a customer and need to hold
                                >> a metal part into an acetal plug. It doesn't need to be water tight
                                >> or anything, but needs to hold with the customer attaching and detaching
                                >> a cable from the metal. The plug will be first made on the lathe, then
                                >> I'll use the mill to make
                                >> the rectangular hole for the metal.
                                >>
                                >> So, I was thinking a glue would be good (it would be really hard to use
                                >> fasteners for this). I just set up a test with some scrap acetal and
                                >> some JB Weld I have open (metal weld and plastic weld) as well as
                                >> Loctite gel super glue.
                                >>
                                >>
                                >> Any thoughts on anything better to hold this together?
                                >>
                                >>
                                >> --
                                >> Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com
                                >> tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
                                >> Skype: jerrydurand
                                >>
                                >>
                                >
                                >
                                >
                              • Jerry Durand
                                ... Back when I worked testing military and aerospace hardware we had to have mating plugs for all sorts of odd connectors. At that time when you needed a
                                Message 15 of 23 , Mar 5, 2013
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                                  On 03/05/2013 10:30 AM, curtisleo@... wrote:
                                  > Hot glue is great. I use it for holding electrical connectors in sockets
                                  > and high vibration locations. A lot of electrical equipment have dabs of
                                  > hot glue all over.
                                  >

                                  Back when I worked testing military and aerospace hardware we had to
                                  have mating plugs for all sorts of odd connectors. At that time when
                                  you needed a mil/space rated connector, you custom ordered it. As that
                                  was way out of our budget (lowest bidder wins the contracts) we just got
                                  a collection of male and female pins. Place a piece of paper over the
                                  connector on the device and stab pins with wires into the holes. Put a
                                  paper tube over it and fill with hot melt glue. Let cool and you now
                                  have a mating plug.

                                  --
                                  Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com
                                  tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
                                  Skype: jerrydurand
                                • Rick Sparber
                                  My 2 cents here. If you don t need all of the fancy functions of the newer models, the 350 is one excellent instrument. It has been around long enough that it
                                  Message 16 of 23 , Mar 13, 2013
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                                    My 2 cents here.

                                    If you don't need all of the fancy functions of the newer models, the 350 is
                                    one excellent instrument. It has been around long enough that it is almost
                                    bug free (nothing is completely bug free). The 350 uses all through hole
                                    components so little soldering skill in needed.

                                    There are two sources of information on the 350: official and unofficial.
                                    The official docs can be found on the shumatech web site and by joining the
                                    shumatech yahoo BBS. One source of unofficial docs can be found on my web
                                    site:

                                    http://rick.sparber.org/sh.htm

                                    Someone, please give this DRO 350 a good home. It deserves it!

                                    (I am in no way related to Dave Hills and would not profit from this sale.)

                                    Rick

                                    -----Original Message-----
                                    From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On
                                    Behalf Of Dave Hills
                                    Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2013 8:37 AM
                                    To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                                    Subject: [mill_drill] Shumatech DRO 350 PCB Kit with Two QCC-100 kits FOR
                                    SALE


                                    I have a new, unbuilt, DRO 350 PCB kit + two QCC-100 kits, which are excess
                                    to my needs, for sale.

                                    The kit includes:

                                    1ea. DRO 350 un-populated PC Board
                                    ALL the parts in the PCB parts list with RED LED Displays and
                                    Pre-programmed PIC
                                    SOME of the parts in the Enclosure Parts List, including: (Switch Caps,
                                    DIN4 Connectors, and D-Sub Connector) No enclosure or Wall wart.

                                    2ea. QCC-100 PC Boards
                                    QCC-100 parts for two boards
                                    2ea Pre-programmed PICs for the QCC-100s



                                    The PIC for the DRO can be programmed for either "LATHE" or "MILL", buyers'
                                    choice.
                                    I will program the PIC using a professional, production type programmer to
                                    insure a good "burn".

                                    Best offer received before noon central time, Friday, March 15, buys the
                                    kit. I will only ship to U.S. address, via U.S. Postal Service, priority
                                    mail.
                                    Shipping cost of $15, (priority mail medium flat rate box with
                                    insurance) will be added to the best offer price.

                                    Payment by PayPal ONLY.

                                    Thanks,
                                    Dave


                                    ------------------------------------

                                    Yahoo! Groups Links
                                  • Dave Hills
                                    I have a new, unbuilt, DRO 350 PCB kit + two QCC-100 kits, which are excess to my needs, for sale. The kit includes: 1ea. DRO 350 un-populated PC Board ALL the
                                    Message 17 of 23 , Mar 13, 2013
                                    • 0 Attachment
                                      I have a new, unbuilt, DRO 350 PCB kit + two QCC-100 kits, which are
                                      excess to my needs, for sale.

                                      The kit includes:

                                      1ea. DRO 350 un-populated PC Board
                                      ALL the parts in the PCB parts list with RED LED Displays and
                                      Pre-programmed PIC
                                      SOME of the parts in the Enclosure Parts List, including: (Switch
                                      Caps, DIN4 Connectors, and D-Sub Connector) No enclosure or Wall wart.

                                      2ea. QCC-100 PC Boards
                                      QCC-100 parts for two boards
                                      2ea Pre-programmed PICs for the QCC-100s



                                      The PIC for the DRO can be programmed for either "LATHE" or "MILL",
                                      buyers' choice.
                                      I will program the PIC using a professional, production type programmer
                                      to insure a good "burn".

                                      Best offer received before noon central time, Friday, March 15, buys the
                                      kit. I will only ship to U.S. address, via U.S. Postal Service,
                                      priority mail.
                                      Shipping cost of $15, (priority mail medium flat rate box with
                                      insurance) will be added to the best offer price.

                                      Payment by PayPal ONLY.

                                      Thanks,
                                      Dave
                                    • Druid Noibn
                                        Here is 3 cents added to the 2 cents (a full nickle!)   Read and follow Rick s notes on the 350 - it will be a great help.   Kind regards, DBN ... From:
                                      Message 18 of 23 , Mar 13, 2013
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                                        Here is 3 cents added to the 2 cents (a full nickle!)
                                         
                                        Read and follow Rick's notes on the 350 - it will be a great help.
                                         
                                        Kind regards,
                                        DBN


                                        --- On Wed, 3/13/13, Rick Sparber <rgsparber@...> wrote:

                                        From: Rick Sparber <rgsparber@...>
                                        Subject: RE: [mill_drill] Shumatech DRO 350 PCB Kit with Two QCC-100 kits FOR SALE
                                        To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                                        Date: Wednesday, March 13, 2013, 10:45 AM

                                         
                                        My 2 cents here.

                                        If you don't need all of the fancy functions of the newer models, the 350 is
                                        one excellent instrument. It has been around long enough that it is almost
                                        bug free (nothing is completely bug free). The 350 uses all through hole
                                        components so little soldering skill in needed.

                                        There are two sources of information on the 350: official and unofficial.
                                        The official docs can be found on the shumatech web site and by joining the
                                        shumatech yahoo BBS. One source of unofficial docs can be found on my web
                                        site:

                                        http://rick.sparber.org/sh.htm

                                        Someone, please give this DRO 350 a good home. It deserves it!

                                        (I am in no way related to Dave Hills and would not profit from this sale.)

                                        Rick

                                        -----Original Message-----
                                        From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On
                                        Behalf Of Dave Hills
                                        Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2013 8:37 AM
                                        To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                                        Subject: [mill_drill] Shumatech DRO 350 PCB Kit with Two QCC-100 kits FOR
                                        SALE

                                        I have a new, unbuilt, DRO 350 PCB kit + two QCC-100 kits, which are excess
                                        to my needs, for sale.

                                        The kit includes:

                                        1ea. DRO 350 un-populated PC Board
                                        ALL the parts in the PCB parts list with RED LED Displays and
                                        Pre-programmed PIC
                                        SOME of the parts in the Enclosure Parts List, including: (Switch Caps,
                                        DIN4 Connectors, and D-Sub Connector) No enclosure or Wall wart.

                                        2ea. QCC-100 PC Boards
                                        QCC-100 parts for two boards
                                        2ea Pre-programmed PICs for the QCC-100s

                                        The PIC for the DRO can be programmed for either "LATHE" or "MILL", buyers'
                                        choice.
                                        I will program the PIC using a professional, production type programmer to
                                        insure a good "burn".

                                        Best offer received before noon central time, Friday, March 15, buys the
                                        kit. I will only ship to U.S. address, via U.S. Postal Service, priority
                                        mail.
                                        Shipping cost of $15, (priority mail medium flat rate box with
                                        insurance) will be added to the best offer price.

                                        Payment by PayPal ONLY.

                                        Thanks,
                                        Dave

                                        ------------------------------------

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                                      • Rick Sparber
                                        Thanks Dad ;-)) Rick
                                        Message 19 of 23 , Mar 13, 2013
                                        • 0 Attachment
                                          Thanks Dad ;-))

                                          Rick

                                          On Mar 13, 2013, at 12:09 PM, Druid Noibn <druid_noibn@...> wrote:

                                           
                                          Here is 3 cents added to the 2 cents (a full nickle!)
                                           
                                          Read and follow Rick's notes on the 350 - it will be a great help.
                                           
                                          Kind regards,
                                          DBN


                                          --- On Wed, 3/13/13, Rick Sparber <rgsparber@...> wrote:

                                          From: Rick Sparber <rgsparber@...>
                                          Subject: RE: [mill_drill] Shumatech DRO 350 PCB Kit with Two QCC-100 kits FOR SALE
                                          To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                                          Date: Wednesday, March 13, 2013, 10:45 AM

                                           
                                          My 2 cents here.

                                          If you don't need all of the fancy functions of the newer models, the 350 is
                                          one excellent instrument. It has been around long enough that it is almost
                                          bug free (nothing is completely bug free). The 350 uses all through hole
                                          components so little soldering skill in needed.

                                          There are two sources of information on the 350: official and unofficial.
                                          The official docs can be found on the shumatech web site and by joining the
                                          shumatech yahoo BBS. One source of unofficial docs can be found on my web
                                          site:

                                          http://rick.sparber.org/sh.htm

                                          Someone, please give this DRO 350 a good home. It deserves it!

                                          (I am in no way related to Dave Hills and would not profit from this sale.)

                                          Rick

                                          -----Original Message-----
                                          From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On
                                          Behalf Of Dave Hills
                                          Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2013 8:37 AM
                                          To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                                          Subject: [mill_drill] Shumatech DRO 350 PCB Kit with Two QCC-100 kits FOR
                                          SALE

                                          I have a new, unbuilt, DRO 350 PCB kit + two QCC-100 kits, which are excess
                                          to my needs, for sale.

                                          The kit includes:

                                          1ea. DRO 350 un-populated PC Board
                                          ALL the parts in the PCB parts list with RED LED Displays and
                                          Pre-programmed PIC
                                          SOME of the parts in the Enclosure Parts List, including: (Switch Caps,
                                          DIN4 Connectors, and D-Sub Connector) No enclosure or Wall wart.

                                          2ea. QCC-100 PC Boards
                                          QCC-100 parts for two boards
                                          2ea Pre-programmed PICs for the QCC-100s

                                          The PIC for the DRO can be programmed for either "LATHE" or "MILL", buyers'
                                          choice.
                                          I will program the PIC using a professional, production type programmer to
                                          insure a good "burn".

                                          Best offer received before noon central time, Friday, March 15, buys the
                                          kit. I will only ship to U.S. address, via U.S. Postal Service, priority
                                          mail.
                                          Shipping cost of $15, (priority mail medium flat rate box with
                                          insurance) will be added to the best offer price.

                                          Payment by PayPal ONLY.

                                          Thanks,
                                          Dave

                                          ------------------------------------

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