Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

bonding acetal

Expand Messages
  • Jerry Durand
    I have to make up a small pile of items for a customer and need to hold a metal part into an acetal plug. It doesn t need to be water tight or anything, but
    Message 1 of 23 , Mar 4, 2013
    • 0 Attachment
      I have to make up a small pile of items for a customer and need to hold
      a metal part into an acetal plug. It doesn't need to be water tight or
      anything, but needs to hold with the customer attaching and detaching a
      cable from the metal.
      The plug will be first made on the lathe, then I'll use the mill to make
      the rectangular hole for the metal.

      So, I was thinking a glue would be good (it would be really hard to use
      fasteners for this). I just set up a test with some scrap acetal and
      some JB Weld I have open (metal weld and plastic weld) as well as
      Loctite gel super glue.

      Any thoughts on anything better to hold this together?

      --
      Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com
      tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
      Skype: jerrydurand
    • curtis95033
      Can you make it a press fit? Acetal doesn t glue well. Curtis
      Message 2 of 23 , Mar 4, 2013
      • 0 Attachment
        Can you make it a press fit? Acetal doesn't glue well.

        Curtis

        On Mon, March 4, 2013 4:37 pm, Jerry Durand wrote:
        > I have to make up a small pile of items for a customer and need to hold
        > a metal part into an acetal plug. It doesn't need to be water tight or
        > anything, but needs to hold with the customer attaching and detaching a
        > cable from the metal. The plug will be first made on the lathe, then I'll
        > use the mill to make the rectangular hole for the metal.
        >
        > So, I was thinking a glue would be good (it would be really hard to use
        > fasteners for this). I just set up a test with some scrap acetal and some
        > JB Weld I have open (metal weld and plastic weld) as well as
        > Loctite gel super glue.
        >
        >
        > Any thoughts on anything better to hold this together?
        >
        >
        > --
        > Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com
        > tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
        > Skype: jerrydurand
        >
        >
      • Jerry Durand
        ... I can make it snug, but not a press fit. I CAN have a lip on the outside to hold the metal from being pressed in and it can extend past the plastic a
        Message 3 of 23 , Mar 4, 2013
        • 0 Attachment
          On 03/04/2013 04:39 PM, curtisleo@... wrote:
          > Can you make it a press fit? Acetal doesn't glue well.
          >
          > Curtis
          >

          I can make it snug, but not a press fit. I CAN have a lip on the
          outside to hold the metal from being pressed in and it can extend past
          the plastic a little in the rear. I was thinking maybe just press the
          JB Weld against the metal to form a lip so it can't be pulled back out.
          Not the most elegant but it seems like it should work since it wouldn't
          matter if the glue sticks to the acetal as long as it's tight to the metal.

          --
          Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com
          tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
          Skype: jerrydurand
        • curtis95033
          Can you put a barb around the edge? I did that for one job bonding acetal to AL.
          Message 4 of 23 , Mar 4, 2013
          • 0 Attachment
            Can you put a barb around the edge? I did that for one job bonding acetal
            to AL.

            On Mon, March 4, 2013 4:43 pm, Jerry Durand wrote:
            > On 03/04/2013 04:39 PM, curtisleo@... wrote:
            >
            >> Can you make it a press fit? Acetal doesn't glue well.
            >>
            >>
            >> Curtis
            >>
            >>
            >
            > I can make it snug, but not a press fit. I CAN have a lip on the
            > outside to hold the metal from being pressed in and it can extend past the
            > plastic a little in the rear. I was thinking maybe just press the JB Weld
            > against the metal to form a lip so it can't be pulled back out. Not the
            > most elegant but it seems like it should work since it wouldn't matter if
            > the glue sticks to the acetal as long as it's tight to the metal.
            >
            > --
            > Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com
            > tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
            > Skype: jerrydurand
            >
            >
            >
          • Arthur Marks
            what about grooving the OD on the metal part, make the acetal oversized, heat the acetal so it conforms to the grooves, and finish to final size? -Arthur
            Message 5 of 23 , Mar 4, 2013
            • 0 Attachment
              what about grooving the OD on the metal part, make the acetal oversized, heat the acetal so it conforms to the grooves, and finish to final size?  -Arthur
            • Jerry Durand
              ... No, the metal is pre-made. :( The most I can do is sand the metal. -- Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com tel: +1 408 356-3886,
              Message 6 of 23 , Mar 4, 2013
              • 0 Attachment
                On 03/04/2013 04:54 PM, curtisleo@... wrote:
                > Can you put a barb around the edge? I did that for one job bonding acetal
                > to AL.
                >

                No, the metal is pre-made. :( The most I can do is sand the metal.

                --
                Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com
                tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
                Skype: jerrydurand
              • Jerry Durand
                ... The metal is an off-the-shelf rectangular connector that s intended to go into an injection molded housing that holds it in place. My customer s project
                Message 7 of 23 , Mar 4, 2013
                • 0 Attachment

                  On 03/04/2013 04:56 PM, Arthur Marks wrote:
                  what about grooving the OD on the metal part, make the acetal oversized, heat the acetal so it conforms to the grooves, and finish to final size?  -Arthur

                  The metal is an off-the-shelf rectangular connector that's intended to go into an injection molded housing that holds it in place.  My customer's project needs these mounted in the acetal bit I'm making and I can't cradle it the same.
                  -- 
                  Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc.  www.interstellar.com
                  tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
                  Skype:  jerrydurand 
                  
                • Corey Renner
                  I ve spent a decent amount of effort trying to bond acetal, nothing that I ve tried gives satisfactory results (JB Weld, epoxy, cyanoacrylate, roughing the
                  Message 8 of 23 , Mar 4, 2013
                  • 0 Attachment
                    I've spent a decent amount of effort trying to bond acetal, nothing that I've tried gives satisfactory results (JB Weld, epoxy, cyanoacrylate, roughing the surface, etc.)  Some will appear to bond, but any mild type of shock will quickly detach the resin from the acetal.  If you must use that material, you'll need to engineer something (a lip, or grooove, etc.) to mechanically hold it in-place.

                    cheers,
                    c

                    On Mon, Mar 4, 2013 at 6:04 PM, Jerry Durand <jdurand@...> wrote:
                     


                    On 03/04/2013 04:56 PM, Arthur Marks wrote:
                    what about grooving the OD on the metal part, make the acetal oversized, heat the acetal so it conforms to the grooves, and finish to final size?  -Arthur

                    The metal is an off-the-shelf rectangular connector that's intended to go into an injection molded housing that holds it in place.  My customer's project needs these mounted in the acetal bit I'm making and I can't cradle it the same.

                    -- 
                    Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc.  www.interstellar.com
                    tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
                    Skype:  jerrydurand 
                    


                  • Dana Hague
                    What does the OD of the metal part look like? As already pointed out, acetal doesn t bond well to anything. One common way to lock metal inserts in to
                    Message 9 of 23 , Mar 4, 2013
                    • 0 Attachment
                      What does the OD of the metal part look like?  As already pointed out, acetal doesn't bond well to anything.  One common way to lock metal inserts in to plastics is to knurl or groove the outside of the insert and install into a slightly undersized hole using heat (you heat the metal insert while pressing it in).



                      At 07:43 PM 3/4/2013, Jerry Durand wrote:
                       

                      On 03/04/2013 04:39 PM, curtisleo@... wrote:
                      > Can you make it a press fit? Acetal doesn't glue well.
                      >
                      > Curtis
                      >

                      I can make it snug, but not a press fit. I CAN have a lip on the
                      outside to hold the metal from being pressed in and it can extend past
                      the plastic a little in the rear. I was thinking maybe just press the
                      JB Weld against the metal to form a lip so it can't be pulled back out.
                      Not the most elegant but it seems like it should work since it wouldn't
                      matter if the glue sticks to the acetal as long as it's tight to the metal.

                      --
                      Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com
                      tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
                      Skype: jerrydurand

                    • Jerry Durand
                      ... It s a rectangular metal tube made of thin steel (about 0.015 ) that s been tin plated. Look at something like a USB plug, that s typical of how a lot of
                      Message 10 of 23 , Mar 4, 2013
                      • 0 Attachment

                        On 03/04/2013 05:56 PM, Dana Hague wrote:
                        What does the OD of the metal part look like?  As already pointed out, acetal doesn't bond well to anything.  One common way to lock metal inserts in to plastics is to knurl or groove the outside of the insert and install into a slightly undersized hole using heat (you heat the metal insert while pressing it in).

                        It's a rectangular metal tube made of thin steel (about 0.015") that's been tin plated.  Look at something like a USB plug, that's typical of how a lot of connectors are made.

                        I'm pretty sure I'll be able to just glue the part on the inside so it can't pull out.  It won't push in since it has a lip.  So, a fillet of glue that's actually only sticking to the metal should work.

                        -- 
                        Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc.  www.interstellar.com
                        tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
                        Skype:  jerrydurand
                      • Curt Wuollet
                        Interesting that this came up. I m making a new leadscrew nut for my Y axis out of acetal by the thermoforming route. I plan to install it in the carrier with
                        Message 11 of 23 , Mar 4, 2013
                        • 0 Attachment
                          Interesting that this came up. I'm making a new leadscrew nut for my
                          Y axis out of acetal by the thermoforming route. I plan to install it in
                          the
                          carrier with epoxy. The carrier is a rough casting, so that should stick
                          well
                          if I can get all the oil out of it. I will turn grooves in the acetal
                          insert so
                          it doesn't depend on adhesion. The problem with acetal is that it's soft
                          and malleable so it's like gluing rubber. If the bond can't flex it just
                          peels away. I expect a urethane adhesive might work if they are at
                          all compatible.

                          Regards

                          cww

                          Jerry Durand wrote:
                          >
                          > On 03/04/2013 04:39 PM, curtisleo@...
                          > <mailto:curtisleo%40leo-tech.com> wrote:
                          > > Can you make it a press fit? Acetal doesn't glue well.
                          > >
                          > > Curtis
                          > >
                          >
                          > I can make it snug, but not a press fit. I CAN have a lip on the
                          > outside to hold the metal from being pressed in and it can extend past
                          > the plastic a little in the rear. I was thinking maybe just press the
                          > JB Weld against the metal to form a lip so it can't be pulled back out.
                          > Not the most elegant but it seems like it should work since it wouldn't
                          > matter if the glue sticks to the acetal as long as it's tight to the
                          > metal.
                          >
                          > --
                          > Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com
                          > tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
                          > Skype: jerrydurand
                          >
                          >
                        • Dana Hague
                          You might look into products from Master Bond ; they have specialized epoxies for bonding a lot of different materials-- even teflon-- to metal. What is
                          Message 12 of 23 , Mar 5, 2013
                          • 0 Attachment
                            You might look into products from "Master Bond"; they have specialized epoxies for bonding a lot of different materials-- even teflon-- to metal.  What is needed is an epoxy that stays pliable, so it flexes with the softer material.

                            BTW, somebody mentioned JB Weld and many people talk of it as if it's magic... it's not.  It's just ordinary epoxy mixed with metal powder to make it somewhat stronger and more rigid.  An advantage in some metal bonding applications, yes, but probably _worse_ for gluing a softer material.

                            But wouldn't a plastic leadscrew nut deform under load, enough to spoil accuracy?  I would think you'd get a lot of chatter.

                            Dana

                            At 11:55 PM 3/4/2013, Curt Wuollet wrote:
                            Interesting that this came up. I'm making a new leadscrew nut for my
                            Y axis out of acetal by the thermoforming route. I plan to install it in
                            the
                            carrier with epoxy. The carrier is a rough casting, so that should stick
                            well
                            if I can get all the oil out of it. I will turn grooves in the acetal
                            insert so
                            it doesn't depend on adhesion. The problem with acetal is that it's soft
                            and malleable so it's like gluing rubber. If the bond can't flex it just
                            peels away. I expect a urethane adhesive might work if they are at
                            all compatible.

                            --
                            Civilization is the process of setting man free from men.
                          • Paul
                            Try geocel 2300 it s a tripolymer sealant used for roofing and general construction ....sold in a caulking tube at lumber yards and roofing supply
                            Message 13 of 23 , Mar 5, 2013
                            • 0 Attachment

                              Try  “geocel 2300 “  it’s a tripolymer   sealant  used for roofing and general construction ……..sold in a  caulking tube at lumber yards and roofing supply   ….…....i  have found that it adheres  to everything

                               

                               

                              Also” pc-11 “   marine epoxy .it’s hard as a rock when cured …..easier to use and better than jb weld in my opinion ……website states it’s limitations ... ….sold at paint stores

                               

                              Good luck paul

                            • Guenther Paul
                              Goggle has several products listed for bonding acetal to metal.I would stay away from lumber yard products. One suggestion i will always try to use a
                              Message 14 of 23 , Mar 5, 2013
                              • 0 Attachment
                                Goggle has several products listed for bonding acetal to metal.I would stay away from lumber yard products. One suggestion i will always try to use a mechanical fastener with the bonding agent with any plastic type product bonded to metal 
                                GP



                                From: Paul <pdolb@...>
                                To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                                Sent: Tue, March 5, 2013 7:41:40 AM
                                Subject: Re: [mill_drill] bonding acetal

                                 

                                Try  “geocel 2300 “  it’s a tripolymer   sealant  used for roofing and general construction ……..sold in a  caulking tube at lumber yards and roofing supply   ….…....i  have found that it adheres  to everything

                                 

                                 

                                Also” pc-11 “   marine epoxy .it’s hard as a rock when cured …..easier to use and better than jb weld in my opinion ……website states it’s limitations ... ….sold at paint stores

                                 

                                Good luck paul

                              • Curt Wuollet
                                Actually the plastic does deform. Elastic deformation until the entire thread carries the load. Plastic deformation would require several tons, long after the
                                Message 15 of 23 , Mar 5, 2013
                                • 0 Attachment
                                  Actually the plastic does deform. Elastic deformation until the entire
                                  thread carries the load. Plastic
                                  deformation would require several tons, long after the end mill packed
                                  it in. They give a ton as
                                  working load. The crude iron original would be chewing up the screw and
                                  itself, The acetal nut
                                  does neither, it just fits better. And because it is molded to the
                                  particular screw, the backlash is
                                  close to zero. In fact, after you mold it you need to chase it until it
                                  will turn reasonably easy.
                                  Even if the screw is a bit worn, the plastic nut will contact the unworn
                                  part because of the exact fit.

                                  Here's a link to the fascinating discussion:

                                  http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/threads/43645-Making-Acetal-leadscrew-nuts-the-easy-way

                                  Regards

                                  cww
                                  Dana Hague wrote:
                                  >
                                  > You might look into products from "Master Bond"; they have specialized
                                  > epoxies for bonding a lot of different materials-- even teflon-- to
                                  > metal. What is needed is an epoxy that stays pliable, so it flexes
                                  > with the softer material.
                                  >
                                  > BTW, somebody mentioned JB Weld and many people talk of it as if it's
                                  > magic... it's not. It's just ordinary epoxy mixed with metal powder to
                                  > make it somewhat stronger and more rigid. An advantage in some metal
                                  > bonding applications, yes, but probably _worse_ for gluing a softer
                                  > material.
                                  >
                                  > But wouldn't a plastic leadscrew nut deform under load, enough to
                                  > spoil accuracy? I would think you'd get a lot of chatter.
                                  >
                                  > Dana
                                  >
                                  > At 11:55 PM 3/4/2013, Curt Wuollet wrote:
                                  >> Interesting that this came up. I'm making a new leadscrew nut for my
                                  >> Y axis out of acetal by the thermoforming route. I plan to install it in
                                  >> the
                                  >> carrier with epoxy. The carrier is a rough casting, so that should stick
                                  >> well
                                  >> if I can get all the oil out of it. I will turn grooves in the acetal
                                  >> insert so
                                  >> it doesn't depend on adhesion. The problem with acetal is that it's soft
                                  >> and malleable so it's like gluing rubber. If the bond can't flex it just
                                  >> peels away. I expect a urethane adhesive might work if they are at
                                  >> all compatible.
                                  >
                                  > --
                                  > Civilization is the process of setting man free from men.
                                  >
                                • uhmgawa
                                  ... That (or knurling) the mating surface with a hot press fit into the acetal is about the only right way to do this. Even acetal/delrin manufacturer s
                                  Message 16 of 23 , Mar 5, 2013
                                  • 0 Attachment
                                    --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, Arthur Marks <arthur.marks@...> wrote:
                                    >
                                    > what about grooving the OD on the metal part, make the acetal oversized,
                                    > heat the acetal so it conforms to the grooves, and finish to final size?

                                    That (or knurling) the mating surface with a hot press fit into the
                                    acetal is about the only right way to do this. Even acetal/delrin
                                    manufacturer's adhesive solutions are documented to create a relatively
                                    weak bond due to the material's low surface energy. If you need an
                                    adhesive bond, acetal is probably the wrong material from that
                                    perspective.

                                    Can the OP quantify exactly what force the metal insert will be
                                    subjected to, particularly both push-through and pull-out as well
                                    as the external dimensions of the metal insert and acetal plug?
                                    If there is enough clearance it may be possible to avoid milling
                                    the metal sleeve and machine an intermediate collar milled to
                                    receive the metal insert, with a circular OD which can be either
                                    threaded or knurled for a hot press fit. Afterwards the sleeve
                                    can be dropped into a slot milled in the collar and set with
                                    adhesive (epoxy, anaerobic compound, etc..).
                                  • carlmciver
                                    I had a really tough challenge recently where I had to seal up various plastic tubes, mostly exotics, have great electrical resistivity, a little bit soft,
                                    Message 17 of 23 , Mar 5, 2013
                                    • 0 Attachment
                                      I had a really tough challenge recently where I had to seal up various plastic tubes, mostly exotics, have great electrical resistivity, a little bit soft, impact resistance, and other weird requirements. I settled on hot glue. Folks looked at me funny, but it's worked like a champ so far.

                                      It's important to think of hot glue as a low temp thermoplastic, and once that light comes on, the thinking shift begins.

                                      Granted, I didn't pick the stuff available from a million sources, but it's pretty close. Slightly compliant and sticks really well to most plastics and metals, providing you get it on hot enough so that there's some good bonding.

                                      I like it so much I'm using it for more and more stuff. Next best thing to gaffer's tape.


                                      --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, Jerry Durand <jdurand@...> wrote:
                                      >
                                      > I have to make up a small pile of items for a customer and need to hold
                                      > a metal part into an acetal plug. It doesn't need to be water tight or
                                      > anything, but needs to hold with the customer attaching and detaching a
                                      > cable from the metal.
                                      > The plug will be first made on the lathe, then I'll use the mill to make
                                      > the rectangular hole for the metal.
                                      >
                                      > So, I was thinking a glue would be good (it would be really hard to use
                                      > fasteners for this). I just set up a test with some scrap acetal and
                                      > some JB Weld I have open (metal weld and plastic weld) as well as
                                      > Loctite gel super glue.
                                      >
                                      > Any thoughts on anything better to hold this together?
                                      >
                                      > --
                                      > Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com
                                      > tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
                                      > Skype: jerrydurand
                                      >
                                    • curtis95033
                                      Hot glue is great. I use it for holding electrical connectors in sockets and high vibration locations. A lot of electrical equipment have dabs of hot glue all
                                      Message 18 of 23 , Mar 5, 2013
                                      • 0 Attachment
                                        Hot glue is great. I use it for holding electrical connectors in sockets
                                        and high vibration locations. A lot of electrical equipment have dabs of
                                        hot glue all over.

                                        On Tue, March 5, 2013 10:15 am, carlmciver wrote:
                                        > I had a really tough challenge recently where I had to seal up various
                                        > plastic tubes, mostly exotics, have great electrical resistivity, a
                                        > little bit soft, impact resistance, and other weird requirements. I
                                        > settled on hot glue. Folks looked at me funny, but it's worked like a
                                        > champ so far.
                                        >
                                        > It's important to think of hot glue as a low temp thermoplastic, and once
                                        > that light comes on, the thinking shift begins.
                                        >
                                        > Granted, I didn't pick the stuff available from a million sources, but
                                        > it's pretty close. Slightly compliant and sticks really well to most
                                        > plastics and metals, providing you get it on hot enough so that there's
                                        > some good bonding.
                                        >
                                        > I like it so much I'm using it for more and more stuff. Next best thing
                                        > to gaffer's tape.
                                        >
                                        >
                                        > --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, Jerry Durand <jdurand@...> wrote:
                                        >
                                        >>
                                        >> I have to make up a small pile of items for a customer and need to hold
                                        >> a metal part into an acetal plug. It doesn't need to be water tight
                                        >> or anything, but needs to hold with the customer attaching and detaching
                                        >> a cable from the metal. The plug will be first made on the lathe, then
                                        >> I'll use the mill to make
                                        >> the rectangular hole for the metal.
                                        >>
                                        >> So, I was thinking a glue would be good (it would be really hard to use
                                        >> fasteners for this). I just set up a test with some scrap acetal and
                                        >> some JB Weld I have open (metal weld and plastic weld) as well as
                                        >> Loctite gel super glue.
                                        >>
                                        >>
                                        >> Any thoughts on anything better to hold this together?
                                        >>
                                        >>
                                        >> --
                                        >> Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com
                                        >> tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
                                        >> Skype: jerrydurand
                                        >>
                                        >>
                                        >
                                        >
                                        >
                                      • Jerry Durand
                                        ... Back when I worked testing military and aerospace hardware we had to have mating plugs for all sorts of odd connectors. At that time when you needed a
                                        Message 19 of 23 , Mar 5, 2013
                                        • 0 Attachment
                                          On 03/05/2013 10:30 AM, curtisleo@... wrote:
                                          > Hot glue is great. I use it for holding electrical connectors in sockets
                                          > and high vibration locations. A lot of electrical equipment have dabs of
                                          > hot glue all over.
                                          >

                                          Back when I worked testing military and aerospace hardware we had to
                                          have mating plugs for all sorts of odd connectors. At that time when
                                          you needed a mil/space rated connector, you custom ordered it. As that
                                          was way out of our budget (lowest bidder wins the contracts) we just got
                                          a collection of male and female pins. Place a piece of paper over the
                                          connector on the device and stab pins with wires into the holes. Put a
                                          paper tube over it and fill with hot melt glue. Let cool and you now
                                          have a mating plug.

                                          --
                                          Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com
                                          tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
                                          Skype: jerrydurand
                                        • Rick Sparber
                                          My 2 cents here. If you don t need all of the fancy functions of the newer models, the 350 is one excellent instrument. It has been around long enough that it
                                          Message 20 of 23 , Mar 13, 2013
                                          • 0 Attachment
                                            My 2 cents here.

                                            If you don't need all of the fancy functions of the newer models, the 350 is
                                            one excellent instrument. It has been around long enough that it is almost
                                            bug free (nothing is completely bug free). The 350 uses all through hole
                                            components so little soldering skill in needed.

                                            There are two sources of information on the 350: official and unofficial.
                                            The official docs can be found on the shumatech web site and by joining the
                                            shumatech yahoo BBS. One source of unofficial docs can be found on my web
                                            site:

                                            http://rick.sparber.org/sh.htm

                                            Someone, please give this DRO 350 a good home. It deserves it!

                                            (I am in no way related to Dave Hills and would not profit from this sale.)

                                            Rick

                                            -----Original Message-----
                                            From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On
                                            Behalf Of Dave Hills
                                            Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2013 8:37 AM
                                            To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                                            Subject: [mill_drill] Shumatech DRO 350 PCB Kit with Two QCC-100 kits FOR
                                            SALE


                                            I have a new, unbuilt, DRO 350 PCB kit + two QCC-100 kits, which are excess
                                            to my needs, for sale.

                                            The kit includes:

                                            1ea. DRO 350 un-populated PC Board
                                            ALL the parts in the PCB parts list with RED LED Displays and
                                            Pre-programmed PIC
                                            SOME of the parts in the Enclosure Parts List, including: (Switch Caps,
                                            DIN4 Connectors, and D-Sub Connector) No enclosure or Wall wart.

                                            2ea. QCC-100 PC Boards
                                            QCC-100 parts for two boards
                                            2ea Pre-programmed PICs for the QCC-100s



                                            The PIC for the DRO can be programmed for either "LATHE" or "MILL", buyers'
                                            choice.
                                            I will program the PIC using a professional, production type programmer to
                                            insure a good "burn".

                                            Best offer received before noon central time, Friday, March 15, buys the
                                            kit. I will only ship to U.S. address, via U.S. Postal Service, priority
                                            mail.
                                            Shipping cost of $15, (priority mail medium flat rate box with
                                            insurance) will be added to the best offer price.

                                            Payment by PayPal ONLY.

                                            Thanks,
                                            Dave


                                            ------------------------------------

                                            Yahoo! Groups Links
                                          • Dave Hills
                                            I have a new, unbuilt, DRO 350 PCB kit + two QCC-100 kits, which are excess to my needs, for sale. The kit includes: 1ea. DRO 350 un-populated PC Board ALL the
                                            Message 21 of 23 , Mar 13, 2013
                                            • 0 Attachment
                                              I have a new, unbuilt, DRO 350 PCB kit + two QCC-100 kits, which are
                                              excess to my needs, for sale.

                                              The kit includes:

                                              1ea. DRO 350 un-populated PC Board
                                              ALL the parts in the PCB parts list with RED LED Displays and
                                              Pre-programmed PIC
                                              SOME of the parts in the Enclosure Parts List, including: (Switch
                                              Caps, DIN4 Connectors, and D-Sub Connector) No enclosure or Wall wart.

                                              2ea. QCC-100 PC Boards
                                              QCC-100 parts for two boards
                                              2ea Pre-programmed PICs for the QCC-100s



                                              The PIC for the DRO can be programmed for either "LATHE" or "MILL",
                                              buyers' choice.
                                              I will program the PIC using a professional, production type programmer
                                              to insure a good "burn".

                                              Best offer received before noon central time, Friday, March 15, buys the
                                              kit. I will only ship to U.S. address, via U.S. Postal Service,
                                              priority mail.
                                              Shipping cost of $15, (priority mail medium flat rate box with
                                              insurance) will be added to the best offer price.

                                              Payment by PayPal ONLY.

                                              Thanks,
                                              Dave
                                            • Druid Noibn
                                                Here is 3 cents added to the 2 cents (a full nickle!)   Read and follow Rick s notes on the 350 - it will be a great help.   Kind regards, DBN ... From:
                                              Message 22 of 23 , Mar 13, 2013
                                              • 0 Attachment
                                                 
                                                Here is 3 cents added to the 2 cents (a full nickle!)
                                                 
                                                Read and follow Rick's notes on the 350 - it will be a great help.
                                                 
                                                Kind regards,
                                                DBN


                                                --- On Wed, 3/13/13, Rick Sparber <rgsparber@...> wrote:

                                                From: Rick Sparber <rgsparber@...>
                                                Subject: RE: [mill_drill] Shumatech DRO 350 PCB Kit with Two QCC-100 kits FOR SALE
                                                To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                                                Date: Wednesday, March 13, 2013, 10:45 AM

                                                 
                                                My 2 cents here.

                                                If you don't need all of the fancy functions of the newer models, the 350 is
                                                one excellent instrument. It has been around long enough that it is almost
                                                bug free (nothing is completely bug free). The 350 uses all through hole
                                                components so little soldering skill in needed.

                                                There are two sources of information on the 350: official and unofficial.
                                                The official docs can be found on the shumatech web site and by joining the
                                                shumatech yahoo BBS. One source of unofficial docs can be found on my web
                                                site:

                                                http://rick.sparber.org/sh.htm

                                                Someone, please give this DRO 350 a good home. It deserves it!

                                                (I am in no way related to Dave Hills and would not profit from this sale.)

                                                Rick

                                                -----Original Message-----
                                                From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On
                                                Behalf Of Dave Hills
                                                Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2013 8:37 AM
                                                To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                                                Subject: [mill_drill] Shumatech DRO 350 PCB Kit with Two QCC-100 kits FOR
                                                SALE

                                                I have a new, unbuilt, DRO 350 PCB kit + two QCC-100 kits, which are excess
                                                to my needs, for sale.

                                                The kit includes:

                                                1ea. DRO 350 un-populated PC Board
                                                ALL the parts in the PCB parts list with RED LED Displays and
                                                Pre-programmed PIC
                                                SOME of the parts in the Enclosure Parts List, including: (Switch Caps,
                                                DIN4 Connectors, and D-Sub Connector) No enclosure or Wall wart.

                                                2ea. QCC-100 PC Boards
                                                QCC-100 parts for two boards
                                                2ea Pre-programmed PICs for the QCC-100s

                                                The PIC for the DRO can be programmed for either "LATHE" or "MILL", buyers'
                                                choice.
                                                I will program the PIC using a professional, production type programmer to
                                                insure a good "burn".

                                                Best offer received before noon central time, Friday, March 15, buys the
                                                kit. I will only ship to U.S. address, via U.S. Postal Service, priority
                                                mail.
                                                Shipping cost of $15, (priority mail medium flat rate box with
                                                insurance) will be added to the best offer price.

                                                Payment by PayPal ONLY.

                                                Thanks,
                                                Dave

                                                ------------------------------------

                                                Yahoo! Groups Links

                                              • Rick Sparber
                                                Thanks Dad ;-)) Rick
                                                Message 23 of 23 , Mar 13, 2013
                                                • 0 Attachment
                                                  Thanks Dad ;-))

                                                  Rick

                                                  On Mar 13, 2013, at 12:09 PM, Druid Noibn <druid_noibn@...> wrote:

                                                   
                                                  Here is 3 cents added to the 2 cents (a full nickle!)
                                                   
                                                  Read and follow Rick's notes on the 350 - it will be a great help.
                                                   
                                                  Kind regards,
                                                  DBN


                                                  --- On Wed, 3/13/13, Rick Sparber <rgsparber@...> wrote:

                                                  From: Rick Sparber <rgsparber@...>
                                                  Subject: RE: [mill_drill] Shumatech DRO 350 PCB Kit with Two QCC-100 kits FOR SALE
                                                  To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                                                  Date: Wednesday, March 13, 2013, 10:45 AM

                                                   
                                                  My 2 cents here.

                                                  If you don't need all of the fancy functions of the newer models, the 350 is
                                                  one excellent instrument. It has been around long enough that it is almost
                                                  bug free (nothing is completely bug free). The 350 uses all through hole
                                                  components so little soldering skill in needed.

                                                  There are two sources of information on the 350: official and unofficial.
                                                  The official docs can be found on the shumatech web site and by joining the
                                                  shumatech yahoo BBS. One source of unofficial docs can be found on my web
                                                  site:

                                                  http://rick.sparber.org/sh.htm

                                                  Someone, please give this DRO 350 a good home. It deserves it!

                                                  (I am in no way related to Dave Hills and would not profit from this sale.)

                                                  Rick

                                                  -----Original Message-----
                                                  From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On
                                                  Behalf Of Dave Hills
                                                  Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2013 8:37 AM
                                                  To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                                                  Subject: [mill_drill] Shumatech DRO 350 PCB Kit with Two QCC-100 kits FOR
                                                  SALE

                                                  I have a new, unbuilt, DRO 350 PCB kit + two QCC-100 kits, which are excess
                                                  to my needs, for sale.

                                                  The kit includes:

                                                  1ea. DRO 350 un-populated PC Board
                                                  ALL the parts in the PCB parts list with RED LED Displays and
                                                  Pre-programmed PIC
                                                  SOME of the parts in the Enclosure Parts List, including: (Switch Caps,
                                                  DIN4 Connectors, and D-Sub Connector) No enclosure or Wall wart.

                                                  2ea. QCC-100 PC Boards
                                                  QCC-100 parts for two boards
                                                  2ea Pre-programmed PICs for the QCC-100s

                                                  The PIC for the DRO can be programmed for either "LATHE" or "MILL", buyers'
                                                  choice.
                                                  I will program the PIC using a professional, production type programmer to
                                                  insure a good "burn".

                                                  Best offer received before noon central time, Friday, March 15, buys the
                                                  kit. I will only ship to U.S. address, via U.S. Postal Service, priority
                                                  mail.
                                                  Shipping cost of $15, (priority mail medium flat rate box with
                                                  insurance) will be added to the best offer price.

                                                  Payment by PayPal ONLY.

                                                  Thanks,
                                                  Dave

                                                  ------------------------------------

                                                  Yahoo! Groups Links

                                                Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.