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Re: [mill_drill] Re: Source for gears

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  • Curtis J Blank
    Yeah I actually thought of that, but then I wouldn t be able to rotate the head. :-D And I don t know that even if doing that it would hold the accuracy I
    Message 1 of 31 , Apr 30, 2012
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      Yeah I actually thought of that, but then I wouldn't be able to rotate the head. :-D And I don't know that even if doing that it would hold the accuracy I want. With the DRO I get my bearings back in short order and knowing me I'd probably check it anyway to be sure ... But nice to know how you did it I may look at it, if it be accurate that be a plus, if not I'd be where I am now, nothing lost.

      On 04/30/12 22:06, Jim S. wrote:
      If you are planning on motorizing the head lift on your mill, you might also consider pinning the rack to deal with that nasty tendency to go out of line when you loosen the head. I checked my head, and it had .007 clearance between the head's keyway and the rack. I removed the rack and checked it on my surface plate. To my utter amazement, it was dead flat, so I drilled three pilot holes at top, middle and bottom and put it back in with a .007 brass shim to take up the play. I swung the head around so the spindle was as far forward as possible and locked the head. Incidentally, I never had any problem with the locking bolts, but did put a dab of never-seez on them awhile ago.
      Using the pilot holes, I hand drilled and reamed the holes through the rack and the column, and drove in pull dowels. I used 1/4 inch dowels in case I screwed up and needed to go bigger. If I ever need to pull the pins, a screw and a stack of washers lets me draw them out.
      I haven't tested the alignment, but it does seem a lot more rigid than before. I intend to check alignment with an optical doohickey I've got laying around when I get a chance, but I'm hoping it will let the head run up and down accurately. More when I get some time.
       
      Jim (Just a guy who likes to build stuff)
       
       

    • Rick Sparber
      LEDs will blow if the maximum current is exceeded. But if you have a long string of LEDs and they have enough bulk resistance, it can work for a while.
      Message 31 of 31 , May 1, 2012
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        LEDs will blow if the maximum current is exceeded. But if you have a long string of LEDs and they have enough bulk resistance, it can work for a while. Furthermore, many wall warts have current limiting. So people can and do connect their LEDs directly to wall warts and they do work OK for a while. It is still bad form.

         

        Rick

         

        From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of J. mendoza
        Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2012 1:17 PM
        To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
        Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Dispelling the Darkness

         




        with no resistor the LEDs for sure will blow, DUH!

         

         

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