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Broken Drawbar

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  • Joe
    I ve got an Enco 105-1110 mill drill and when I used it yesterday it didn t feel like it was tightening all the way. I was using a new import collet so I
    Message 1 of 12 , Apr 27, 2012
      I've got an Enco 105-1110 mill drill and when I used it yesterday it didn't feel like it was tightening all the way. I was using a new import collet so I figured I'd stripped a cheap collet. Today I tried it again with an expensive collet - still a nogo. Then I saw the top was just spinning and not the drawbar - The nut-shaped part up top for the wrench is not an integral part of the drawbar, it is (was) only held on with what looks like a little metal pin. The pin broke, top piece came off. Drawbar is dead.

      At first I was panicked - how to get the drawbar out? THen I tried pushing the nut back on and it went on far enough to unscrew the drawbar by hand. So that crisis is averted.

      I went to the Enco site and it seems they sell a lot of drawbars - but none that fit their own mill drills. (17.25" long) They also sell a power drawbar for about as much as I paid for the entire mill drill - that's not going to happen.

      I called Enco because their customer service was open until 8, but I guess on Fridays they take off a half hour early.
      I can't just drill out the old pin and put a new one on because my drill is the mill, and it is of course now kaputt.

      I'm not a welder so that's not an option. I really want to play with the mill this weekend. What are my options - jbweld, duct tape?

      Thanks
      Joe
      PS: I suspect that I'm no the first person this has happened to. But if it is, and I'm not explaining clearly then let me know and I'll post a few closeup pics of the damage.
    • yahoogroups
      The same thing happened to me. I drilled out the pin and replaced it with a roll pin. Since your mill is also your drill that may be a problem. If you have
      Message 2 of 12 , Apr 28, 2012
        The same thing happened to me. I drilled out the pin and replaced it
        with a roll pin. Since your mill is also your drill that may be a
        problem. If you have a hand drill that may work. The pin was really
        soft chinese cheese metal so a cordless hand drill might do the trick.

        Fergus
      • Rob B
        That happened to me, so I just took a small punch (kind of like a pin punch) and punched it out. Then I took a similar piece of metal and replaced it. I figure
        Message 3 of 12 , Apr 28, 2012
          That happened to me, so I just took a small punch (kind of like a pin punch) and punched it out. Then I took a similar piece of metal and replaced it. I figure it is a shear pin that is designed to break if too much pressure is put on the bolt.

          Bob

          From: Joe <jem1098@...>
          To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
          Sent: Friday, April 27, 2012 5:51 PM
          Subject: [mill_drill] Broken Drawbar

           
          I've got an Enco 105-1110 mill drill and when I used it yesterday it didn't feel like it was tightening all the way. I was using a new import collet so I figured I'd stripped a cheap collet. Today I tried it again with an expensive collet - still a nogo. Then I saw the top was just spinning and not the drawbar - The nut-shaped part up top for the wrench is not an integral part of the drawbar, it is (was) only held on with what looks like a little metal pin. The pin broke, top piece came off. Drawbar is dead.

          At first I was panicked - how to get the drawbar out? THen I tried pushing the nut back on and it went on far enough to unscrew the drawbar by hand. So that crisis is averted.

          I went to the Enco site and it seems they sell a lot of drawbars - but none that fit their own mill drills. (17.25" long) They also sell a power drawbar for about as much as I paid for the entire mill drill - that's not going to happen.

          I called Enco because their customer service was open until 8, but I guess on Fridays they take off a half hour early.
          I can't just drill out the old pin and put a new one on because my drill is the mill, and it is of course now kaputt.

          I'm not a welder so that's not an option. I really want to play with the mill this weekend. What are my options - jbweld, duct tape?

          Thanks
          Joe
          PS: I suspect that I'm no the first person this has happened to. But if it is, and I'm not explaining clearly then let me know and I'll post a few closeup pics of the damage.



        • yahoogroups
          When mine broke that was my first thought. As it turned out the pin was in a blind hole and had to be drilled out. At the time I wondered why they did that
          Message 4 of 12 , Apr 28, 2012
            When mine broke that was my first thought. As it turned out the pin
            was in a blind hole and had to be drilled out. At the time I wondered
            why they did that and I still do.

            > That happened to me, so I just took a small punch (kind of like a pin
            > punch) and punched it out. Then I took a similar piece of metal and
            > replaced it. I figure it is a shear pin that is designed to break if
            > too much pressure is put on the bolt.
            >
            > Bob
            >
          • Rob B
            Another thing you could try, if you have a hand drill, a vise, and a scrap piece of metal; you could drill a hole in a piece of metal (like a tapping guide)
            Message 5 of 12 , Apr 28, 2012
              Another thing you could try, if you have a hand drill, a vise, and a scrap piece of metal; you could drill a hole in a piece of metal (like a tapping guide) then clamp the metal and draw-bar together (so the holes line up) and drill it out that way.

              Bob

              From: yahoogroups <yahoogroups@...>
              To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
              Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2012 4:42 AM
              Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Broken Drawbar

               
              When mine broke that was my first thought. As it turned out the pin
              was in a blind hole and had to be drilled out. At the time I wondered
              why they did that and I still do.

              > That happened to me, so I just took a small punch (kind of like a pin
              > punch) and punched it out. Then I took a similar piece of metal and
              > replaced it. I figure it is a shear pin that is designed to break if
              > too much pressure is put on the bolt.
              >
              > Bob
              >



            • garydavison952
              a piece of threaded rod will get you by untill a proper fix can be made. Gary
              Message 6 of 12 , Apr 28, 2012
                a piece of threaded rod will get you by untill a proper fix can be made.

                Gary

                --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, Rob B <smileygirl7977@...> wrote:
                >
                > Another thing you could try, if you have a hand drill, a vise, and a scrap piece of metal; you could drill a hole in a piece of metal (like a tapping guide) then clamp the metal and draw-bar together (so the holes line up) and drill it out that way.
                >
                > Bob
                >
                >
                > ________________________________
                > From: yahoogroups <yahoogroups@...>
                > To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                > Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2012 4:42 AM
                > Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Broken Drawbar
                >
                >
                >  
                > When mine broke that was my first thought. As it turned out the pin
                > was in a blind hole and had to be drilled out. At the time I wondered
                > why they did that and I still do.
                >
                > > That happened to me, so I just took a small punch (kind of like a pin
                > > punch) and punched it out. Then I took a similar piece of metal and
                > > replaced it. I figure it is a shear pin that is designed to break if
                > > too much pressure is put on the bolt.
                > >
                > > Bob
                > >
                >
              • Joe
                So many options, so little patience.... I just bought a new one off fleabay so I ll have a backup to play with it I can t fix this one. I got ahold of Enco
                Message 7 of 12 , Apr 28, 2012
                  So many options, so little patience....
                  I just bought a new one off fleabay so I'll have a backup to play with it I can't fix this one.

                  I got ahold of Enco this morning - I think the "tech" was just a sales rep who lost a game of rock/papers/scissors at the start of his shift. He couldn't find my mill/drill in the computer and when I told him the length he just looked at the same online catalog I did and told me which one was the closest fit. I'd heard such glowing reports about their customer service, and yet there I am with 15 minutes of my life I'll never get back....

                  I'm going to try and drill a new hole and pin it by hand and if i can get it half-a$$ed on then I'll get on CL and post a want ad for 2 minutes worth of welding to turn it into one solid bar like it should have been to begin with.

                  Thanks for all the insight. The winds are from the SW this morning, so if you guys up in Phoenix hear some faint yelling/swearing in the distance it's probably just me making a mess of things - business as usual, don't be alarmed :)

                  Joe


                  --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "garydavison952" <gld@...> wrote:
                  >
                  > a piece of threaded rod will get you by untill a proper fix can be made.
                  >
                  > Gary
                  >
                  > --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, Rob B <smileygirl7977@> wrote:
                  > >
                  > > Another thing you could try, if you have a hand drill, a vise, and a scrap piece of metal; you could drill a hole in a piece of metal (like a tapping guide) then clamp the metal and draw-bar together (so the holes line up) and drill it out that way.
                  > >
                  > > Bob
                  > >
                  > >
                  > > ________________________________
                  > > From: yahoogroups <yahoogroups@>
                  > > To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                  > > Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2012 4:42 AM
                  > > Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Broken Drawbar
                  > >
                  > >
                  > >  
                  > > When mine broke that was my first thought. As it turned out the pin
                  > > was in a blind hole and had to be drilled out. At the time I wondered
                  > > why they did that and I still do.
                  > >
                  > > > That happened to me, so I just took a small punch (kind of like a pin
                  > > > punch) and punched it out. Then I took a similar piece of metal and
                  > > > replaced it. I figure it is a shear pin that is designed to break if
                  > > > too much pressure is put on the bolt.
                  > > >
                  > > > Bob
                  > > >
                  > >
                  >
                • Arthur Marks
                  Whenever I need a part for one of these, the place I go is the Jet brand parts page---or possibly Grizzly. All these mills are pretty much the same
                  Message 8 of 12 , Apr 28, 2012
                    Whenever I need a part for one of these, the place I go is the Jet brand parts page---or possibly Grizzly.  All these mills are pretty much the same dimensionally.  As you've found, the distributors are decidedly not so helpful in the replacement parts department.  At least on the Jet page you can look up their part number, enter it into their system and get price and availability.  They're usually a little more money than you'd like them to be, but at least they can be had!  ...unlike your Enco experience.  -Arthur

                  • Dennis Kane
                    I drove the old broken pin out, put in an old drill bit of approx size (chuck end of the bit not flutes), snapped it off and peaned the bit ends, fix is still
                    Message 9 of 12 , Apr 28, 2012
                      I drove the old broken pin out, put in an old drill bit of approx size (chuck end of the bit not flutes), snapped it off and peaned the bit ends, fix is still going strong.  As a result of constant R-8 changing, I went to an ER-40 collet holder and basic collet assortment.
                      I like it.  

                      On Sat, Apr 28, 2012 at 8:55 AM, Joe <jem1098@...> wrote:
                       

                      So many options, so little patience....
                      I just bought a new one off fleabay so I'll have a backup to play with it I can't fix this one.

                      I got ahold of Enco this morning - I think the "tech" was just a sales rep who lost a game of rock/papers/scissors at the start of his shift. He couldn't find my mill/drill in the computer and when I told him the length he just looked at the same online catalog I did and told me which one was the closest fit. I'd heard such glowing reports about their customer service, and yet there I am with 15 minutes of my life I'll never get back....

                      I'm going to try and drill a new hole and pin it by hand and if i can get it half-a$$ed on then I'll get on CL and post a want ad for 2 minutes worth of welding to turn it into one solid bar like it should have been to begin with.

                      Thanks for all the insight. The winds are from the SW this morning, so if you guys up in Phoenix hear some faint yelling/swearing in the distance it's probably just me making a mess of things - business as usual, don't be alarmed :)

                      Joe

                      --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "garydavison952" <gld@...> wrote:
                      >
                      > a piece of threaded rod will get you by untill a proper fix can be made.
                      >
                      > Gary
                      >
                      > --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, Rob B <smileygirl7977@> wrote:
                      > >
                      > > Another thing you could try, if you have a hand drill, a vise, and a scrap piece of metal; you could drill a hole in a piece of metal (like a tapping guide) then clamp the metal and draw-bar together (so the holes line up) and drill it out that way.
                      > >
                      > > Bob
                      > >
                      > >
                      > > ________________________________
                      > > From: yahoogroups <yahoogroups@>
                      > > To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                      > > Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2012 4:42 AM
                      > > Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Broken Drawbar
                      > >
                      > >
                      > >  
                      > > When mine broke that was my first thought. As it turned out the pin
                      > > was in a blind hole and had to be drilled out. At the time I wondered
                      > > why they did that and I still do.
                      > >
                      > > > That happened to me, so I just took a small punch (kind of like a pin
                      > > > punch) and punched it out. Then I took a similar piece of metal and
                      > > > replaced it. I figure it is a shear pin that is designed to break if
                      > > > too much pressure is put on the bolt.
                      > > >
                      > > > Bob
                      > > >
                      > >
                      >


                    • Curt Wuollet
                      go to the hardware store and get a piece of all thread and a coupler to fit. problem solved. Regards cww
                      Message 10 of 12 , Apr 29, 2012
                        go to the hardware store and get a piece of all thread and a coupler to
                        fit. problem solved.

                        Regards

                        cww

                        Joe wrote:
                        >
                        > I've got an Enco 105-1110 mill drill and when I used it yesterday it
                        > didn't feel like it was tightening all the way. I was using a new
                        > import collet so I figured I'd stripped a cheap collet. Today I tried
                        > it again with an expensive collet - still a nogo. Then I saw the top
                        > was just spinning and not the drawbar - The nut-shaped part up top for
                        > the wrench is not an integral part of the drawbar, it is (was) only
                        > held on with what looks like a little metal pin. The pin broke, top
                        > piece came off. Drawbar is dead.
                        >
                        > At first I was panicked - how to get the drawbar out? THen I tried
                        > pushing the nut back on and it went on far enough to unscrew the
                        > drawbar by hand. So that crisis is averted.
                        >
                        > I went to the Enco site and it seems they sell a lot of drawbars - but
                        > none that fit their own mill drills. (17.25" long) They also sell a
                        > power drawbar for about as much as I paid for the entire mill drill -
                        > that's not going to happen.
                        >
                        > I called Enco because their customer service was open until 8, but I
                        > guess on Fridays they take off a half hour early.
                        > I can't just drill out the old pin and put a new one on because my
                        > drill is the mill, and it is of course now kaputt.
                        >
                        > I'm not a welder so that's not an option. I really want to play with
                        > the mill this weekend. What are my options - jbweld, duct tape?
                        >
                        > Thanks
                        > Joe
                        > PS: I suspect that I'm no the first person this has happened to. But
                        > if it is, and I'm not explaining clearly then let me know and I'll
                        > post a few closeup pics of the damage.
                        >
                        >
                      • Joe
                        Lowes, Home Depot, Sutherlands and ACE Hardware were my four choices - none of them sell 7/16-20. They all have the 7/16, but only in course thread. I guess we
                        Message 11 of 12 , Apr 29, 2012
                          Lowes, Home Depot, Sutherlands and ACE Hardware were my four choices - none of them sell 7/16-20. They all have the 7/16, but only in course thread. I guess we don't have the same selection that's available in the big cities.

                          I drilled it out and put a pin in, it will hold for now. I ordered another one on ebay and it should arrive next week. It might be a bit toolong but I can make a bushing to get it to fit.

                          Joe


                          --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, Curt Wuollet <wideopen1@...> wrote:
                          >
                          > go to the hardware store and get a piece of all thread and a coupler to
                          > fit. problem solved.
                          >
                          >
                        • Curt Wuollet
                          You can check Enco and the others, or if you have a local Fastenal, they may have the right size. On my mill I needed 2 drawbars. The original accessories were
                          Message 12 of 12 , Apr 29, 2012
                            You can check Enco and the others, or if you have a local Fastenal, they
                            may have the right size.
                            On my mill I needed 2 drawbars. The original accessories were metric,
                            but all my collets are SAE.
                            Mines a morse taper spindle so ymmv, but the all thread is strong enough
                            for any reasonable force.
                            I did sleeve it with a bit of heatshrink to keep it centered for high
                            rpms with small endmills.
                            Regards

                            cww

                            Joe wrote:
                            >
                            > Lowes, Home Depot, Sutherlands and ACE Hardware were my four choices -
                            > none of them sell 7/16-20. They all have the 7/16, but only in course
                            > thread. I guess we don't have the same selection that's available in
                            > the big cities.
                            >
                            > I drilled it out and put a pin in, it will hold for now. I ordered
                            > another one on ebay and it should arrive next week. It might be a bit
                            > toolong but I can make a bushing to get it to fit.
                            >
                            > Joe
                            >
                            > --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                            > <mailto:mill_drill%40yahoogroups.com>, Curt Wuollet <wideopen1@...> wrote:
                            > >
                            > > go to the hardware store and get a piece of all thread and a coupler to
                            > > fit. problem solved.
                            > >
                            > >
                            >
                            >
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