Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

Replace the 3 Position Switch on an OLD Mill Drill

Expand Messages
  • Ray Majeski
    Greetings, Has any of you fine fellows have the oppurtunity to change out the Foward/Off/Reverse switch? I m poking around try to find something that s fairly
    Message 1 of 6 , Oct 2, 2011
    • 0 Attachment
      Greetings,
      Has any of you fine fellows have the oppurtunity to change out the Foward/Off/Reverse switch? I'm poking around try to find something that's fairly close to the switch I have now but not having much luck. Grainger has one close but at $75 bucks, I think I can do better. Anyone been down this road?
      Ray
    • Jerry Durand
      Does your mill have a drum switch like this? http://www.drillspot.com/products/42934/Dayton_2X440_Drum_Reversing_Switch?s=1 ... -- Jerry Durand, Durand
      Message 2 of 6 , Oct 2, 2011
      • 0 Attachment
        Does your mill have a drum switch like this?
        http://www.drillspot.com/products/42934/Dayton_2X440_Drum_Reversing_Switch?s=1

        On 10/02/2011 11:05 AM, Ray Majeski wrote:
        > Greetings,
        > Has any of you fine fellows have the oppurtunity to change out the Foward/Off/Reverse switch? I'm poking around try to find something that's fairly close to the switch I have now but not having much luck. Grainger has one close but at $75 bucks, I think I can do better. Anyone been down this road?
        > Ray
        >
        >

        --
        Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com
        tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
        Skype: jerrydurand
      • Ray Majeski
        Hi, Thanks for responding. But no it s more like what the newer models have with an oven stove type where you turn it left or right. The drum switch would work
        Message 3 of 6 , Oct 2, 2011
        • 0 Attachment
          Hi,
          Thanks for responding. But no it's more like what the newer models have with
          an oven stove type where you turn it left or right. The drum switch would
          work but I have a home made depth gage (Dial Indicator hanging off the front
          and I'd like to get something similar to the OEM.
          Ray

          -----Original Message-----
          From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On
          Behalf Of Jerry Durand
          Sent: Sunday, October 02, 2011 2:54 PM
          To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
          Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Replace the 3 Position Switch on an OLD Mill Drill

          Does your mill have a drum switch like this?
          http://www.drillspot.com/products/42934/Dayton_2X440_Drum_Reversing_Switch?s
          =1

          On 10/02/2011 11:05 AM, Ray Majeski wrote:
          > Greetings,
          > Has any of you fine fellows have the oppurtunity to change out the
          Foward/Off/Reverse switch? I'm poking around try to find something that's
          fairly close to the switch I have now but not having much luck. Grainger has
          one close but at $75 bucks, I think I can do better. Anyone been down this
          road?
          > Ray
          >
          >

          --
          Jerry Durand, Durand Interstellar, Inc. www.interstellar.com
          tel: +1 408 356-3886, USA toll free: 1 866 356-3886
          Skype: jerrydurand



          ------------------------------------

          Yahoo! Groups Links
        • largrin
          Hello Ray I just replaced my trashed Chinese switch with this one from MSC-
          Message 4 of 6 , Oct 3, 2011
          • 0 Attachment
            Hello Ray

            I just replaced my trashed Chinese switch with this one from MSC-

            http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/NNSRIT2?PMAKA=63748883&PMPXNO=7217436&cm_re=ItemDetail-_-ResultListing-_-SearchResults

            Ok, don't laugh guys.

            For me, it was tough, because I am electrically ignorant. I can wire an entire house,
            but this stuff is over my head. A friend and me worked on it together, and finally got it working, and it does a good job.

            One thing to consider, that I almost went nuts over- Using the factory instructions
            that are in the owners manual, last year I converted my mill to run on 220 volts. It made a huge
            difference in the performance. However...there is a white wire that becomes unused,
            and it gets taped off. This wire was still hooked up to the original switch, and about
            drove me nuts. When I took the cover off the motor, I saw and remembered it, so I cut it off on the switch end.

            This left us with only 2 blue wires, and one brown wire running to the motor, and of course, the hot wires from the outlet.

            Then we were able to wire it to work correctly.

            Larry in WV

            --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Ray Majeski" <rmajeski@...> wrote:
            >
            > Greetings,
            > Has any of you fine fellows have the oppurtunity to change out the Foward/Off/Reverse switch? I'm poking around try to find something that's fairly close to the switch I have now but not having much luck. Grainger has one close but at $75 bucks, I think I can do better. Anyone been down this road?
            > Ray
            >
          • largrin
            If you mount the switch with the handle pointing down, it takes only a little more space than the OEM switch. I made a simple L bracket, and bent it 90° to
            Message 5 of 6 , Oct 3, 2011
            • 0 Attachment
              If you mount the switch with the handle pointing down, it takes
              only a little more space than the OEM switch.
              I made a simple "L" bracket, and bent it 90° to accommodate
              the switch mounting area.

              My friend figured the wiring out.
              Since I have already admitted ignorance on this subject, I
              wont claim to know why this wiring arrangement works, but
              it does work just fine.

              For what its worth, I started an album called "Larrys Stuff".
              I posted some pictures of the switch replacement job.

              Larry in WV

              --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "largrin" <LarGrin@...> wrote:
              >
              > Hello Ray
              >
              > I just replaced my trashed Chinese switch with this one from MSC-
              >
              > http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/NNSRIT2?PMAKA=63748883&PMPXNO=7217436&cm_re=ItemDetail-_-ResultListing-_-SearchResults
              >
              > Ok, don't laugh guys.
              >
              > For me, it was tough, because I am electrically ignorant. I can wire an entire house,
              > but this stuff is over my head. A friend and me worked on it together, and finally got it working, and it does a good job.
              >
              > One thing to consider, that I almost went nuts over- Using the factory instructions
              > that are in the owners manual, last year I converted my mill to run on 220 volts. It made a huge
              > difference in the performance. However...there is a white wire that becomes unused,
              > and it gets taped off. This wire was still hooked up to the original switch, and about
              > drove me nuts. When I took the cover off the motor, I saw and remembered it, so I cut it off on the switch end.
              >
              > This left us with only 2 blue wires, and one brown wire running to the motor, and of course, the hot wires from the outlet.
              >
              > Then we were able to wire it to work correctly.
              >
              > Larry in WV
              >
              > --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Ray Majeski" <rmajeski@> wrote:
              > >
              > > Greetings,
              > > Has any of you fine fellows have the oppurtunity to change out the Foward/Off/Reverse switch? I'm poking around try to find something that's fairly close to the switch I have now but not having much luck. Grainger has one close but at $75 bucks, I think I can do better. Anyone been down this road?
              > > Ray
              > >
              >
            • Ray Majeski
              Larry, I like the way you mounted the switch! Clever! Also safer with it pointing down as well. Not as easy to bump into. Thanks for taking the time to take
              Message 6 of 6 , Oct 3, 2011
              • 0 Attachment
                Larry,
                I like the way you mounted the switch! Clever! Also safer with it pointing
                down as well. Not as easy to bump into. Thanks for taking the time to take
                pictures and post them as well.
                Ray in NC

                -----Original Message-----
                From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On
                Behalf Of largrin
                Sent: Monday, October 03, 2011 1:24 PM
                To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                Subject: [mill_drill] Re: Replace the 3 Position Switch on an OLD Mill Drill

                If you mount the switch with the handle pointing down, it takes
                only a little more space than the OEM switch.
                I made a simple "L" bracket, and bent it 90° to accommodate
                the switch mounting area.

                My friend figured the wiring out.
                Since I have already admitted ignorance on this subject, I
                wont claim to know why this wiring arrangement works, but
                it does work just fine.

                For what its worth, I started an album called "Larrys Stuff".
                I posted some pictures of the switch replacement job.

                Larry in WV

                --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "largrin" <LarGrin@...> wrote:
                >
                > Hello Ray
                >
                > I just replaced my trashed Chinese switch with this one from MSC-
                >
                >
                http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/NNSRIT2?PMAKA=63748883&PMPXNO=7217436&cm_re=It
                emDetail-_-ResultListing-_-SearchResults
                >
                > Ok, don't laugh guys.
                >
                > For me, it was tough, because I am electrically ignorant. I can wire an
                entire house,
                > but this stuff is over my head. A friend and me worked on it together, and
                finally got it working, and it does a good job.
                >
                > One thing to consider, that I almost went nuts over- Using the factory
                instructions
                > that are in the owners manual, last year I converted my mill to run on 220
                volts. It made a huge
                > difference in the performance. However...there is a white wire that
                becomes unused,
                > and it gets taped off. This wire was still hooked up to the original
                switch, and about
                > drove me nuts. When I took the cover off the motor, I saw and remembered
                it, so I cut it off on the switch end.
                >
                > This left us with only 2 blue wires, and one brown wire running to the
                motor, and of course, the hot wires from the outlet.
                >
                > Then we were able to wire it to work correctly.
                >
                > Larry in WV
                >
                > --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Ray Majeski" <rmajeski@> wrote:
                > >
                > > Greetings,
                > > Has any of you fine fellows have the oppurtunity to change out the
                Foward/Off/Reverse switch? I'm poking around try to find something that's
                fairly close to the switch I have now but not having much luck. Grainger has
                one close but at $75 bucks, I think I can do better. Anyone been down this
                road?
                > > Ray
                > >
                >




                ------------------------------------

                Yahoo! Groups Links
              Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.