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Re: [mill_drill] G1007 motor problem

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  • Bill Stietenroth
    I sounds to me like you have a problem with your start switch not staying engaged. If you can mill by holding the button, your motor is probably running
    Message 1 of 9 , Sep 7, 2011
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      I sounds to me like you have a problem with your start switch not staying engaged. If you can mill by holding the button, your motor is probably running correctly. If the centrifugal switch in the motor was not switching the motor would be running on the start windings and would over heat pretty rapidly. Unplug the machine and take the cover off of your start switch and see if you can tell if it is engaging and staying that way when you turn the button loose.
       
      Bill in Houston

      ---------- Original Message ----------
      From: "conditalan" <acondit@...>
      To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
      Subject: [mill_drill] G1007 motor problem
      Date: Thu, 08 Sep 2011 02:36:38 -0000

      I have an early G1007 (before powerfeeds). The early G1007 differed from the G1006 in that the table was longer.

      When I press the start switch, the motor starts fine but as soon as I release the switch, the motor stops. I can mill things by holding the starter button in but that is real inconvenient.

      Can anyone help with a diagnosis? Is there a centrifugal start relay in the motor? Is there a run capacitor in addition to the start capacitor? Is it reasonable to have the motor repaired? Can I do it myself?

      Thanks in advance,
      Alan



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    • rwc24908@aol.com
      This is the first time I ve ever tried to post, so here goes. I have a G1006 (about ten years old.) It does the same thing, but it will keep running
      Message 2 of 9 , Sep 7, 2011
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        This is the first time I've ever tried to post, so here goes.  I have a G1006 (about ten years old.)  It does the same thing, but it will keep running (usually) if I take my finger off the start button slowly.
        I took the switch apart (after unplugging the machine!) and filed the contacts.  This cured the problem for a couple of years, but it's doing it again, so I need to file again or replace the switch.
        I know nothing about start or run capacitors, but fixing the switch cured the problem for me.  I'm gong to Grizzly this week or next (about 200 miles each way) for a new switch and to drool on all their
        fun toys. 

      • Druid Noibn
        Hi,   Check to make sure Grizzly has the item in-stock.  My local Grizzly is in PA and about 3.5 hours - GREAT store.     Take care, DBN ... From:
        Message 3 of 9 , Sep 7, 2011
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          Hi,
           
          Check to make sure Grizzly has the item in-stock.  My local Grizzly is in PA and about 3.5 hours - GREAT store.    
          Take care,
          DBN

          --- On Thu, 9/8/11, rwc24908@... <rwc24908@...> wrote:

          From: rwc24908@... <rwc24908@...>
          Subject: [mill_drill] Re: G1007 motor problem
          To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
          Date: Thursday, September 8, 2011, 12:04 AM

           
          This is the first time I've ever tried to post, so here goes.  I have a G1006 (about ten years old.)  It does the same thing, but it will keep running (usually) if I take my finger off the start button slowly.
          I took the switch apart (after unplugging the machine!) and filed the contacts.  This cured the problem for a couple of years, but it's doing it again, so I need to file again or replace the switch.
          I know nothing about start or run capacitors, but fixing the switch cured the problem for me.  I'm gong to Grizzly this week or next (about 200 miles each way) for a new switch and to drool on all their
          fun toys. 

        • rwc24908@aol.com
          Thanks, DBN, very good point. You know how it goes --- $20 part, $50 for gas, $70 worth of fun. If he can mill while holding the switch engaged, then the
          Message 4 of 9 , Sep 7, 2011
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            Thanks, DBN, very good point.
                  You know how it goes  --- $20 part, $50 for gas, $70 worth of fun.  If he can mill while holding the switch engaged, then the motor is probably fine.  My switch contacts (there's a bunch of them) were
            badly pitted.  If you forget to unplug the machine before taking the switch apart, the sparks will make it hard to see what you're doing!
             
                                  Bill in Tacoma

          • Druid Noibn
            HI Bill,   Agreed - in the early days I would routinely burnish contacts.     My next trip to Grizzly in for their tent sale - good deals can be had.  
            Message 5 of 9 , Sep 7, 2011
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              HI Bill,
               
              Agreed - in the early days I would routinely burnish contacts.  
               
              My next trip to Grizzly in for their tent sale - good deals can be had.
               
              Be well,
              DBN 

              --- On Thu, 9/8/11, rwc24908@... <rwc24908@...> wrote:

              From: rwc24908@... <rwc24908@...>
              Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Re: G1007 motor problem
              To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
              Date: Thursday, September 8, 2011, 12:21 AM

               
              Thanks, DBN, very good point.
                    You know how it goes  --- $20 part, $50 for gas, $70 worth of fun.  If he can mill while holding the switch engaged, then the motor is probably fine.  My switch contacts (there's a bunch of them) were
              badly pitted.  If you forget to unplug the machine before taking the switch apart, the sparks will make it hard to see what you're doing!
               
                                    Bill in Tacoma

            • yahoogroups
              I had a G1007 with the same problem. The switch was designed to latch in the on position. The latching surfaces were made of plastic and were worn. Grizzly
              Message 6 of 9 , Sep 8, 2011
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                I had a G1007 with the same problem. The switch was designed to latch
                in the on position. The latching surfaces were made of plastic and
                were worn. Grizzly quoted me $54 for a new switch! I went to Lowes
                and bought a 240V 20 amp double pole motor rated toggle switch for
                $15. I mounted it in a standard metal handybox (~$1.50) and mounted
                that to the side of the head. I removed the old switch and covered
                the hole with a piece of aluminum. It worked great. I sold the
                machine a couple of years ago.

                Fergus
              • Bill Stietenroth
                Those push button start switches are famous for that. If you can, you would eliminate problem if you convert to a drum switch. They are heavy duty and made for
                Message 7 of 9 , Sep 8, 2011
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                  Those push button start switches are famous for that. If you can, you would eliminate problem if you convert to a drum switch. They are heavy duty and made for motor control. Push buttons are made for low current applications.
                   
                  Bill

                  ---------- Original Message ----------
                  From: rwc24908@...
                  To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                  Subject: [mill_drill] Re: G1007 motor problem
                  Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2011 00:04:53 -0400 (EDT)

                  This is the first time I've ever tried to post, so here goes.  I have a G1006 (about ten years old.)  It does the same thing, but it will keep running (usually) if I take my finger off the start button slowly.
                  I took the switch apart (after unplugging the machine!) and filed the contacts.  This cured the problem for a couple of years, but it's doing it again, so I need to file again or replace the switch.
                  I know nothing about start or run capacitors, but fixing the switch cured the problem for me.  I'm gong to Grizzly this week or next (about 200 miles each way) for a new switch and to drool on all their
                  fun toys. 

                • Alan
                  Thanks Bill and everyone, I should have said that I already took the switch apart and cleaned the contacts. The button is staying in but I didn t use a VOM to
                  Message 8 of 9 , Sep 8, 2011
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                    Thanks Bill and everyone,

                    I should have said that I already took the switch apart and cleaned the contacts. The button is staying in but I didn't use a VOM to check for continuity (DUH!). I will check that next. There are four wires to the switch so I assume (dangerous) that it is designed to work for make/break for 220V.

                    Alan


                    --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Bill Stietenroth" <k5zty@...> wrote:
                    >
                    > I sounds to me like you have a problem with your start switch not staying engaged. If you can mill by holding the button, your motor is probably running correctly. If the centrifugal switch in the motor was not switching the motor would be running on the start windings and would over heat pretty rapidly. Unplug the machine and take the cover off of your start switch and see if you can tell if it is engaging and staying that way when you turn the button loose. Bill in Houston
                    >
                    > ---------- Original Message ----------
                    > From: "conditalan" <acondit@...>
                    > To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                    > Subject: [mill_drill] G1007 motor problem
                    > Date: Thu, 08 Sep 2011 02:36:38 -0000
                    >
                    > I have an early G1007 (before powerfeeds). The early G1007 differed from the G1006 in that the table was longer.
                    >
                    > When I press the start switch, the motor starts fine but as soon as I release the switch, the motor stops. I can mill things by holding the starter button in but that is real inconvenient.
                    >
                    > Can anyone help with a diagnosis? Is there a centrifugal start relay in the motor? Is there a run capacitor in addition to the start capacitor? Is it reasonable to have the motor repaired? Can I do it myself?
                    >
                    > Thanks in advance,
                    > Alan
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    > ------------------------------------
                    >
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