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Re: Manuals

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  • Ray Livingston
    A good way to tighten an R8 is to get it finger tight, then give it another 1/4-1/2 turn with a wrench. 1/2 turn puts about 4500 pounds tension on the drawbar
    Message 1 of 10 , Jul 1, 2009
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      A good way to tighten an R8 is to get it finger tight, then give it another 1/4-1/2 turn with a wrench. 1/2 turn puts about 4500 pounds tension on the drawbar which is enough to keep any tool in place, even in a collet. If using "hard" R8-shanked holders, like endmill holders and boring heads, or on a benchtop machine, 1/4 turn should be more than plenty. Even at 1/2 turn, it should take just one tap with a dead-blow to release the taper.

      Regards,
      Ray L.


      --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, Curt Wuollet <wideopen1@...> wrote:
      >
      > And they shouldn't really need
      > to be torqued to the max. With
      > the MT3 spindle, I just jerk it
      > to use the inertia of the spindle.
      > Gets it tight enough, much more
      > and you have to beat on it to get
      > it loose again. R8 is a steeper
      > taper so it might need a bit more
      > but you don't want to get too
      > carried away there either.
      >
      > Regards
      > cww
      >
      > Alex Fraser wrote:
      > >
      > >
      > > Mine is belt driven, so I just hold on to the pulley.
      > > You got to have the lid open anyway to get to the bolt.
      > >
      > > jfrxbd wrote:
      > >>
      > >> Thanks all, between the Griz and the SF manual I think I've got the
      > >> gist of this drill mill. I have made a few chips with a Bridgeport
      > >> and I don't see a spindle lock on a Drill Mill.
      > >> How do you lock the spindle when loosening or tightening a tool in an
      > >> R8 collet?
      > >>
      > >> --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
      > >> <mailto:mill_drill%40yahoogroups.com>, Curt Wuollet <wideopen1@>
      > >> wrote:
      > >> >
      > >> > The Shop Fox manual is good too.
      > >> > The G3358 manual is pretty recent too.
      > >> > For a long time it was not available and
      > >> > my Homier mill is exactly the same as
      > >> > the 3358 except the metric incarnation.
      > >> >
      > >> > Regards
      > >> > cww
      > >> >
      > >> >
      > >>
      > >
      > >
      > > --
      > > \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\-----++++*0*++++-----//////////////////
      > > No electrons were harmed in the creation of this message
      > > --------------------------------------------------------
      > > ~~~********************Alex Fraser********************~~~
      > > --------------------------------------------------------
      > > [[[[[[~~^^^#___=>>>```/\/\**O**/\/\```<<<=___#^^^~~]]]]]]
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      >
    • Chris Raymond
      On a geared head machine, set the lowest speed and the spindle is effectively locked by friction. Then you don t have to worry about forgetting to remove a
      Message 2 of 10 , Jul 1, 2009
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        On a geared head machine, set the lowest speed and the spindle is effectively locked by friction.  Then you don't have to worry about forgetting to remove a spindle lock.

        Chris


        From: Ray Livingston <jagboy@...>
        To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
        Sent: Wednesday, July 1, 2009 8:22:28 AM
        Subject: [mill_drill] Re: Manuals

        A good way to tighten an R8 is to get it finger tight, then give it another 1/4-1/2 turn with a wrench. 1/2 turn puts about 4500 pounds tension on the drawbar which is enough to keep any tool in place, even in a collet. If using "hard" R8-shanked holders, like endmill holders and boring heads, or on a benchtop machine, 1/4 turn should be more than plenty. Even at 1/2 turn, it should take just one tap with a dead-blow to release the taper.

        Regards,
        Ray L.

        --- In mill_drill@yahoogro ups.com, Curt Wuollet <wideopen1@. ..> wrote:
        >
        > And they shouldn't really need
        > to be torqued to the max. With
        > the MT3 spindle, I just jerk it
        > to use the inertia of the spindle.
        > Gets it tight enough, much more
        > and you have to beat on it to get
        > it loose again. R8 is a steeper
        > taper so it might need a bit more
        > but you don't want to get too
        > carried away there either.
        >
        > Regards
        > cww
        >
        > Alex Fraser wrote:
        > >
        > >
        > > Mine is belt driven, so I just hold on to the pulley.
        > > You got to have the lid open anyway to get to the bolt.
        > >
        > > jfrxbd wrote:
        > >>
        > >> Thanks all, between the Griz and the SF manual I think I've got the
        > >> gist of this drill mill. I have made a few chips with a Bridgeport
        > >> and I don't see a spindle lock on a Drill Mill.
        > >> How do you lock the spindle when loosening or tightening a tool in an
        > >> R8 collet?
        > >>
        > >> --- In mill_drill@yahoogro ups.com
        > >> <mailto:mill_ drill%40yahoogro ups.com>, Curt Wuollet <wideopen1@>
        > >> wrote:
        > >> >
        > >> > The Shop Fox manual is good too.
        > >> > The G3358 manual is pretty recent too.
        > >> > For a long time it was not available and
        > >> > my Homier mill is exactly the same as
        > >> > the 3358 except the metric incarnation.
        > >> >
        > >> > Regards
        > >> > cww
        > >> >
        > >> >
        > >>
        > >
        > >
        > > --
        > > \\\\\\\\\\\\ \\\\----- ++++*0*++ ++-----// ///////// ///////
        > > No electrons were harmed in the creation of this message
        > > ------------ --------- --------- --------- --------- --------
        > > ~~~********* ********* **Alex Fraser****** ********* *****~~~
        > > ------------ --------- --------- --------- --------- --------
        > > [[[[[[~~^^^# ___=>>>`` `/\/\**O* */\/\```< <<=___#^^ ^~~]]]]]]
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        >


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