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Re: [mill_drill] Re: Manuals

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  • Curt Wuollet
    And they shouldn t really need to be torqued to the max. With the MT3 spindle, I just jerk it to use the inertia of the spindle. Gets it tight enough, much
    Message 1 of 10 , Jun 30, 2009
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      And they shouldn't really need
      to be torqued to the max. With
      the MT3 spindle, I just jerk it
      to use the inertia of the spindle.
      Gets it tight enough, much more
      and you have to beat on it to get
      it loose again. R8 is a steeper
      taper so it might need a bit more
      but you don't want to get too
      carried away there either.

      Regards
      cww

      Alex Fraser wrote:
      >
      >
      > Mine is belt driven, so I just hold on to the pulley.
      > You got to have the lid open anyway to get to the bolt.
      >
      > jfrxbd wrote:
      >>
      >> Thanks all, between the Griz and the SF manual I think I've got the
      >> gist of this drill mill. I have made a few chips with a Bridgeport
      >> and I don't see a spindle lock on a Drill Mill.
      >> How do you lock the spindle when loosening or tightening a tool in an
      >> R8 collet?
      >>
      >> --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
      >> <mailto:mill_drill%40yahoogroups.com>, Curt Wuollet <wideopen1@...>
      >> wrote:
      >> >
      >> > The Shop Fox manual is good too.
      >> > The G3358 manual is pretty recent too.
      >> > For a long time it was not available and
      >> > my Homier mill is exactly the same as
      >> > the 3358 except the metric incarnation.
      >> >
      >> > Regards
      >> > cww
      >> >
      >> >
      >>
      >
      >
      > --
      > \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\-----++++*0*++++-----//////////////////
      > No electrons were harmed in the creation of this message
      > --------------------------------------------------------
      > ~~~********************Alex Fraser********************~~~
      > --------------------------------------------------------
      > [[[[[[~~^^^#___=>>>```/\/\**O**/\/\```<<<=___#^^^~~]]]]]]
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
    • Ray Livingston
      A good way to tighten an R8 is to get it finger tight, then give it another 1/4-1/2 turn with a wrench. 1/2 turn puts about 4500 pounds tension on the drawbar
      Message 2 of 10 , Jul 1, 2009
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        A good way to tighten an R8 is to get it finger tight, then give it another 1/4-1/2 turn with a wrench. 1/2 turn puts about 4500 pounds tension on the drawbar which is enough to keep any tool in place, even in a collet. If using "hard" R8-shanked holders, like endmill holders and boring heads, or on a benchtop machine, 1/4 turn should be more than plenty. Even at 1/2 turn, it should take just one tap with a dead-blow to release the taper.

        Regards,
        Ray L.


        --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, Curt Wuollet <wideopen1@...> wrote:
        >
        > And they shouldn't really need
        > to be torqued to the max. With
        > the MT3 spindle, I just jerk it
        > to use the inertia of the spindle.
        > Gets it tight enough, much more
        > and you have to beat on it to get
        > it loose again. R8 is a steeper
        > taper so it might need a bit more
        > but you don't want to get too
        > carried away there either.
        >
        > Regards
        > cww
        >
        > Alex Fraser wrote:
        > >
        > >
        > > Mine is belt driven, so I just hold on to the pulley.
        > > You got to have the lid open anyway to get to the bolt.
        > >
        > > jfrxbd wrote:
        > >>
        > >> Thanks all, between the Griz and the SF manual I think I've got the
        > >> gist of this drill mill. I have made a few chips with a Bridgeport
        > >> and I don't see a spindle lock on a Drill Mill.
        > >> How do you lock the spindle when loosening or tightening a tool in an
        > >> R8 collet?
        > >>
        > >> --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
        > >> <mailto:mill_drill%40yahoogroups.com>, Curt Wuollet <wideopen1@>
        > >> wrote:
        > >> >
        > >> > The Shop Fox manual is good too.
        > >> > The G3358 manual is pretty recent too.
        > >> > For a long time it was not available and
        > >> > my Homier mill is exactly the same as
        > >> > the 3358 except the metric incarnation.
        > >> >
        > >> > Regards
        > >> > cww
        > >> >
        > >> >
        > >>
        > >
        > >
        > > --
        > > \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\-----++++*0*++++-----//////////////////
        > > No electrons were harmed in the creation of this message
        > > --------------------------------------------------------
        > > ~~~********************Alex Fraser********************~~~
        > > --------------------------------------------------------
        > > [[[[[[~~^^^#___=>>>```/\/\**O**/\/\```<<<=___#^^^~~]]]]]]
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        >
      • Chris Raymond
        On a geared head machine, set the lowest speed and the spindle is effectively locked by friction. Then you don t have to worry about forgetting to remove a
        Message 3 of 10 , Jul 1, 2009
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          On a geared head machine, set the lowest speed and the spindle is effectively locked by friction.  Then you don't have to worry about forgetting to remove a spindle lock.

          Chris


          From: Ray Livingston <jagboy@...>
          To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
          Sent: Wednesday, July 1, 2009 8:22:28 AM
          Subject: [mill_drill] Re: Manuals

          A good way to tighten an R8 is to get it finger tight, then give it another 1/4-1/2 turn with a wrench. 1/2 turn puts about 4500 pounds tension on the drawbar which is enough to keep any tool in place, even in a collet. If using "hard" R8-shanked holders, like endmill holders and boring heads, or on a benchtop machine, 1/4 turn should be more than plenty. Even at 1/2 turn, it should take just one tap with a dead-blow to release the taper.

          Regards,
          Ray L.

          --- In mill_drill@yahoogro ups.com, Curt Wuollet <wideopen1@. ..> wrote:
          >
          > And they shouldn't really need
          > to be torqued to the max. With
          > the MT3 spindle, I just jerk it
          > to use the inertia of the spindle.
          > Gets it tight enough, much more
          > and you have to beat on it to get
          > it loose again. R8 is a steeper
          > taper so it might need a bit more
          > but you don't want to get too
          > carried away there either.
          >
          > Regards
          > cww
          >
          > Alex Fraser wrote:
          > >
          > >
          > > Mine is belt driven, so I just hold on to the pulley.
          > > You got to have the lid open anyway to get to the bolt.
          > >
          > > jfrxbd wrote:
          > >>
          > >> Thanks all, between the Griz and the SF manual I think I've got the
          > >> gist of this drill mill. I have made a few chips with a Bridgeport
          > >> and I don't see a spindle lock on a Drill Mill.
          > >> How do you lock the spindle when loosening or tightening a tool in an
          > >> R8 collet?
          > >>
          > >> --- In mill_drill@yahoogro ups.com
          > >> <mailto:mill_ drill%40yahoogro ups.com>, Curt Wuollet <wideopen1@>
          > >> wrote:
          > >> >
          > >> > The Shop Fox manual is good too.
          > >> > The G3358 manual is pretty recent too.
          > >> > For a long time it was not available and
          > >> > my Homier mill is exactly the same as
          > >> > the 3358 except the metric incarnation.
          > >> >
          > >> > Regards
          > >> > cww
          > >> >
          > >> >
          > >>
          > >
          > >
          > > --
          > > \\\\\\\\\\\\ \\\\----- ++++*0*++ ++-----// ///////// ///////
          > > No electrons were harmed in the creation of this message
          > > ------------ --------- --------- --------- --------- --------
          > > ~~~********* ********* **Alex Fraser****** ********* *****~~~
          > > ------------ --------- --------- --------- --------- --------
          > > [[[[[[~~^^^# ___=>>>`` `/\/\**O* */\/\```< <<=___#^^ ^~~]]]]]]
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          >


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