Fw: [mill_drill] Re: mill/drill ( RF45 ) Gib adj Q's and such
- You can get large washers from any snow plow company such as meyers or western. They use them on the shoes of the plow. Just a idea. Bill----- Original Message -----From: ChrisSent: Saturday, December 20, 2008 11:22 PMSubject: Re: [mill_drill] Re: mill/drill ( RF45 ) Gib adj Q's and suchHey DBN,Yes thats an option, but I also agree with Walter, it might be a tad too thin. Good idea though!I don't really see a problem with cutting, for I have only needed to drill holes and rough stuff, not real accurate milling YET.
But I assure you the jiggle I was getting was far from adequate.I prefer no jiggle, even if I have to lance the stand to the ground and dump a headache ball in the center of it.Thanks for the comments.
Christian----- Original Message -----From: Druid NoibnSent: Saturday, December 20, 2008 8:07 PMSubject: Re: [mill_drill] Re: mill/drill ( RF45 ) Gib adj Q's and suchHi Chris,OR...you can buy electrical outlet box covers and turn them down a little. Of course, if you have sheet steel availabe, use what you have.OK a question - do you see a problem cutting metal? Are the cuts or finish no good?Take care,DBN
--- On Sat, 12/20/08, Chris <chris2003@shaw. ca> wrote:
From: Chris <chris2003@shaw. ca>
Subject: Re: [mill_drill] Re: mill/drill ( RF45 ) Gib adj Q's and such
To: mill_drill@yahoogro ups.com
Date: Saturday, December 20, 2008, 9:22 PMAha here comes my mentor, Good old Walter.Thanks for checking over my pictures and current dilemma.
That hole saw idea is great, actually eluded my thoughts UNTIL you mentioned it.No lathe, so torch plasma and or hole saw is what I got to work with now, Could do with a rotary table, but don't have that, Could use my boring head, but the hole saw sounds ideal for now.I will try that first, 1/4" plate if I can manage to cut it.......... If that solves my jiggling problems I will leave it at at ( I hope it does ), But I wont get my hopes up, simply because there is so much difference that I need to make up for, the cement drops considerably from front to back to make it level, 1/2" Id say, maybe more.I don't know if I understood your plate suggestion correctly, are you saying take a 1/2" plate the width and length of my stand ( the bottom side ) and pop my studs through it into my stand then tighten every thing down?Sorry, Didn't catch that.
In the end, if that large 1/4" washer works then GREAT, if not I will yank that POS stand out and start fresh.
1/2" wall HSS 4"x4" and 1/2" plate....... ...That sucker will hit 300 lbs easy! Id like to see that damn stand with mill jiggle.Thanks Walter,young brains such as my self look up to you old timers -hehe
Christian----- Original Message -----Sent: Saturday, December 20, 2008 5:26 PMSubject: Re: [mill_drill] Re: mill/drill ( RF45 ) Gib adj Q's and suchChristianUse a 3-1/4 Hole saw and cut yourself some washers from 1/4" plate steel, that way the hockey pucks are backed up against something really solid. You can trim them a bit on the lathe to get them to 3" if needed. I plasma cut my first few with the circle cutting attachment and they were tough to turn, Broke a few carbide inserts as they rattled through the hardened layer. The ones that were cut with holesaw worked much better.Don't skimp on stands, they need to be solid!Walter----- Original Message -----From: ChrisSent: Saturday, December 20, 2008 11:59 AMSubject: Re: [mill_drill] Re: mill/drill ( RF45 ) Gib adj Q's and suchHey Ed,Thanks for the reply.
I was out all morning tinkering with it trying to see if I could level it another way......... It defiantly doesn't sway, but it does jiggle forward to back and right or left, and visa versa.
I don't know how much is a lot or how much is a little, But any jiggle to me is not good.......I have a feeling the 2 washers I have is also a little bit on the small side, Stupid me I tack welded the nut to the stud thinking hey I am done, Obviously not the case.
Did you turn those 3" x 1/4" large washers ?!I guess I can give those a shot........ .I am not impressed with this stand at all, but I cant really sell it to any one, Not easily any way, I could fab a heavy duty HSS stand, but all that work I just did will go out the window!Thanks for the input Ed.
Christian----- Original Message -----From: EdSent: Saturday, December 20, 2008 11:42 AMSubject: [mill_drill] Re: mill/drill ( RF45 ) Gib adj Q's and suchChristian,
OK, I did the jiggle test and when I have the head all the way up and
smack the side of it the light I have clamped to the table does jiggle
a little. But it also jiggles a little when the head is way down also.
It certainly doesn't come close to swaying.
Your large washers aren't large enough in my opinion. Take a look in
the "Files" section under a folder called "Ed's Mill Stand" for a PDF
file called "pads_o3.pdf" and you will see how I made my large washer.
I think the washer should be as large as the hockey puck which is 3"
and nice and thick. I used 1/4" steel to make my washers but that
might be more than necessary. That's what I had available so that's
what I used. Ignore the note about the grade 8 hardware. It's not
necessary and I didn't use it. Hope this helps some.
--- In mill_drill@yahoogro ups.com, "Chris" <chris2003@. ..> wrote:
> Hey Ed.
> Thanks for the reply.
> Ok now I am a little worried then.
> I will get pictures of my setup soon, but its basically 6" long
carrage bolts, 1/2" that are bored deep enough into the puck to bury
the head into the puck and have lots of meat in there to grab. Then I
placed a LARGE washer over top, and then I placed a smaller washer on
top of that to give it some strength, Then a nut and then another nut/
washer then another washer/nut ( the stands base goes between the
> Ok so when I crank my head all the way to the top and push
relatively hard at the top it doesn't really sway, it jiggles but it
jiggles quick then comes back to rest. Doesn't sit there and jiggle.
> Now I push on the base where the cutting action is I get a slight
jiggle but not as aggressive as up top..
> I poured cement under the machine, and I didn't do such a hot job of
making it level from front to back, side to side its ok. So when I
used my precision level I had to do a lot of forward tipping, twice as
much in the back then the front. I don't see that being a problem though!
> I also dont see the hockey pucks being faulty, did the same thing as
the cnccookbook guy, except I used 1/2" instead of 5/8" bolts!
> Hummm....... .......Pictures then.
> http://www.filedump .net/dumped/ 0011229800211. JPG
> http://www.filedump .net/dumped/ 0021... . JPG
> I am all ears Ed.
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