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Re: Clarke RF25 Mill/Drill Strip down.

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  • Barry Kneller
    ... Thanks for the reply Martin, You are correct, the x nut is held by two screws, not one. I ll need to take a look after I remove the table, but I think I
    Message 1 of 6 , May 7 8:29 AM
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      --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "leasingham_connelly"
      <martin.connelly@...> wrote:
      >
      > The long axis is taken as the x azis usualy. On my RF the nut is
      > held by two screws, the same is true for the Chester Super Lux so I
      > do not know how yours is fitted. One suggestion is to put it
      > together with some threadlock from Loctite or something similar.
      > Pick one with a long setting time to allow you to pinch the screw
      > just enough to allow it to automatically position itself then leave
      > it for the Loctite to set. This will ensure your screws do not
      > vibrate out but will be removeable when you do need to dismantle in
      > the future.
      >
      > Martin
      > Lincs
      >

      Thanks for the reply Martin, You are correct, the 'x' nut is held by
      two screws, not one.

      I'll need to take a look after I remove the table, but I think I can
      use a Hole saw to cut a small opening in the top of the cabinet stand
      that will allow me to fully tighten the screws after the table & both
      brackets are re-placed.

      I'll let you know how I get on tomorrow.....

      Thanks again
      Cheers
      Barry

      PS - It makes sense to use threadlock in this location, I've seen a
      post (may have been on this forum?) somewhere describing the very
      fast wear to the nut, due to those screws coming loose.
    • leasingham_connelly
      ... so I ... screw ... leave ... in ... by ... can ... stand ... both ... a ... I don t know the cause but I had to replace this nut on my machine as it wore
      Message 2 of 6 , May 8 4:55 AM
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        --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Barry Kneller" <bkba09515@...>
        wrote:
        >
        > --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "leasingham_connelly"
        > <martin.connelly@> wrote:
        > >
        > > The long axis is taken as the x azis usualy. On my RF the nut is
        > > held by two screws, the same is true for the Chester Super Lux
        so I
        > > do not know how yours is fitted. One suggestion is to put it
        > > together with some threadlock from Loctite or something similar.
        > > Pick one with a long setting time to allow you to pinch the
        screw
        > > just enough to allow it to automatically position itself then
        leave
        > > it for the Loctite to set. This will ensure your screws do not
        > > vibrate out but will be removeable when you do need to dismantle
        in
        > > the future.
        > >
        > > Martin
        > > Lincs
        > >
        >
        > Thanks for the reply Martin, You are correct, the 'x' nut is held
        by
        > two screws, not one.
        >
        > I'll need to take a look after I remove the table, but I think I
        can
        > use a Hole saw to cut a small opening in the top of the cabinet
        stand
        > that will allow me to fully tighten the screws after the table &
        both
        > brackets are re-placed.
        >
        > I'll let you know how I get on tomorrow.....
        >
        > Thanks again
        > Cheers
        > Barry
        >
        > PS - It makes sense to use threadlock in this location, I've seen
        a
        > post (may have been on this forum?) somewhere describing the very
        > fast wear to the nut, due to those screws coming loose.
        >
        I don't know the cause but I had to replace this nut on my machine
        as it wore to the point where the thread jumped one pitch, there was
        no obvious increase in backlash before this point, I think the nut
        thread was too shallow to start with or the material was too weak as
        the thread was stripped out in pieces. I think it is brass not
        bronze as it is easy to file or score. The replacement seemed much
        tougher.

        Martin
      • chippuller
        ... Barry, Just a thought... was the lead screw nut removed during this rework? If so, could it have been installed 180 degrees from it s original position?
        Message 3 of 6 , May 8 7:39 AM
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          Barry Kneller wrote:
          >> It's not possible to follow this procedure when fitting the
          > milling
          >> table, so I just eyed it up & hoped that there would be enough
          > slack
          >> in the lead screw bracket/s to allow for any mis-alignment of the
          > nut.
          >>
          >> Not a chance! - when the bracket is attached, the LS nut is so far
          > out
          >> that it just locks the screw up solid.

          Barry,
          Just a thought... was the lead screw nut removed during this
          rework? If
          so, could it have been installed 180 degrees from it's original
          position?
          That might account for the mis-alignment.


          Mario
        • Barry Kneller
          Hi Mario It s possible that I installed the nut R s about face - so to speak......... I ve now re-installed it the correct way, just nipping up the bolts
          Message 4 of 6 , May 9 3:17 AM
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            Hi Mario
             
            It's possible that I installed the nut 'R's about face' - so to speak.........
             
            I've now re-installed it the correct way, just nipping up the bolts lightly.
             
            I cut a hole in the top of the cabinet stand and now have access to the lead nut fixings from below, also removed the front panel from the cabinet stand so that I could see what I was doing.
             
            After replacing the Milling table, lead screw & brackets, it is now aligned OK, but still very stiff, I slackened the bolts a little and found that the screw became a little easier, after further slackening , about 2 threads, the lead screw became much easier.
             
            I can't explain this as the bolts were originally fully tightened - the lead screw was not as free as I would have liked but it was certainly useable.
             
            It's possible that the spring washers, under the head of the bolts, were originally installed between the base of the nut and the nut mounting surface.
             
            My Inclination at the moment, is to insert a shim about 2.5mm thick to lift the nut into alignment.............? 
             
            Martin, the leads nuts on my machine also appear to be made from brass, but are in quite good condition - there was originally a lot of backlash in the screws - they may not have been adjusted up correctly.
             
            Now they've been adjusted I have only minimal backlash, about 1 division, 0.025mm.
             
            After reading an account of the re-furbishing of a Chinese Mill/Drill I've coated both screws with ACP bearing grease, although containing PTFE,  it seems a bit too sticky - what would normally be recommended for this application - I usually just use 10/50 Oil for the screws.
             
            Thanks again for your interest and assistance.
             
            Cheers
            Barry
             
            PS - I've looked at all the Mill/drill manuals that I can find on the web - the machine bases of all those, even the square column ones appear to be identical, regardless of the source..............
             
             
             
             

            From: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mill_drill@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of chippuller
            Sent: 08 May 2008 15:39
            To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
            Subject: [mill_drill] Re: Clarke RF25 Mill/Drill Strip down.

            Barry Kneller wrote:

            >> It's not possible to follow this procedure
            when fitting the
            > milling
            >> table, so I just eyed it up &
            hoped that there would be enough
            > slack
            >> in the lead screw
            bracket/s to allow for any mis-alignment of the
            >
            nut.
            >>
            >> Not a chance! - when the bracket is attached, the
            LS nut is so far
            > out
            >> that it just locks the screw up
            solid.

            Barry,
            Just a thought... was the lead screw nut removed during this
            rework? If
            so, could it have been installed 180 degrees from it's original
            position?
            That might account for the mis-alignment.


            Mario

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