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Rong-Fu Mill questions

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  • konsumingfire
    I purchased a used bench mill recently, and have some questions about it. It is badged as a Birmingham, made in taiwan , and looks exactly like the RF-30/31.
    Message 1 of 4 , Dec 1, 2005
      I purchased a used bench mill recently, and have some questions
      about it. It is badged as a Birmingham, "made in taiwan", and looks
      exactly like the RF-30/31.

      The main problem I am having is that it has sat for a little while
      after I got it and the spindle has become more difficult to move up
      and down with the spoke handle. It still moves vertically but is
      pretty darn sticky. When I first got it, it was nice and smooth. I
      made certain to undo the fixed bolt that locks the spindle in place
      for machining work. Tightening the bolt makes it stick solidly.
      However, loosening it only allows sticky movement.
      I am assuming it needs lubricating, but am not certain where or how
      to oil, or if it needs grease instead. I am hesitant to use oil
      until I know it won't wash out any grease. The manual is in
      Chinglish and is impossible to decipher exactly how to lubricate.
      It keeps talking about "filling the lubricant" which makes it sound
      like there is a reservoir on the machine. If there is one I haven't
      found it!
      I am assuming I need to take off the depth stop gauge cover or
      something to get to the rack sleeve behind it???
      Any ideas on what I need to do? What kind of oil/grease should I
      use?

      The history of my machine is that I got it from an old timer who
      used it for one quick job, made a stack of change, and then it sat
      in his storage unit for a few months. While in there, he had it
      tarped but a water leak in the roof got on it, and leaked through
      the new tarp. The only damage from that was surface rust on about
      2/3 of the table. He oiled the surface as soon as he discovered it,
      but did not fix the rust because he was going to sell it and wanted
      to leave it up to the new owner how best to fix it. After I bought
      it, I got a flat knife sharpening stone and within a few minutes
      removed the rust (which was like a varnish, mostly) and then re-
      oiled it.
      When I got it the table rust was the only thing wrong with it,
      except it was missing all its tooling, which I remedied over the
      past few months. The machine itself is in pretty sharp condition
      otherwise. I don't think it got any water down the spindle, so I'm
      not worried about any corrosion in there.

      I am completely new and ignorant to machining work. I am anxious to
      get started, and need some advice on fixing this problem.

      Many thanks,
      Rick
    • Bill Pace
      Sounds like youve got a case of gummed lubricant. This is prone to happen when my milldrill sits idle, I just start spraying on whatever spray lube is handy,
      Message 2 of 4 , Dec 1, 2005
        Sounds like youve got a case of "gummed" lubricant. This is prone to
        happen when my milldrill sits idle, I just start spraying on
        whatever spray lube is handy, WD-40, etc, to loosen it up, usually
        doesnt take much. Lower the quill as far as will go and wet it down
        & wipe off, with it back up, look all over to find a peep hole to
        spray on it in the up position. When freed up ,I usually put a light
        coat of LPS on it, but most any of the spray lubes will suffice if
        done on a fairly often schedule. The same thing will happen to the
        lead screws and ways on the tables, so a shot on them at the same
        time is a good idea.

        Sounds like you got quite a find there in the "Birmy" (I got a 12x36
        Birmy lathe and really like it)



        --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "konsumingfire"
        <konsumingfire@y...> wrote:
        >
        > I purchased a used bench mill recently, and have some questions
        > about it. It is badged as a Birmingham, "made in taiwan", and
        looks
        > exactly like the RF-30/31.
        >
        > The main problem I am having is that it has sat for a little while
        > after I got it and the spindle has become more difficult to move
        up
        > and down with the spoke handle. It still moves vertically but is
        > pretty darn sticky. When I first got it, it was nice and smooth.
        I
        > made certain to undo the fixed bolt that locks the spindle in
        place
        > for machining work. Tightening the bolt makes it stick solidly.
        > However, loosening it only allows sticky movement.
        > I am assuming it needs lubricating, but am not certain where or
        how
        > to oil, or if it needs grease instead. I am hesitant to use oil
        > until I know it won't wash out any grease. The manual is in
        > Chinglish and is impossible to decipher exactly how to lubricate.
        > It keeps talking about "filling the lubricant" which makes it
        sound
        > like there is a reservoir on the machine. If there is one I
        haven't
        > found it!
        > I am assuming I need to take off the depth stop gauge cover or
        > something to get to the rack sleeve behind it???
        > Any ideas on what I need to do? What kind of oil/grease should I
        > use?
        >
        > The history of my machine is that I got it from an old timer who
        > used it for one quick job, made a stack of change, and then it sat
        > in his storage unit for a few months. While in there, he had it
        > tarped but a water leak in the roof got on it, and leaked through
        > the new tarp. The only damage from that was surface rust on about
        > 2/3 of the table. He oiled the surface as soon as he discovered
        it,
        > but did not fix the rust because he was going to sell it and
        wanted
        > to leave it up to the new owner how best to fix it. After I
        bought
        > it, I got a flat knife sharpening stone and within a few minutes
        > removed the rust (which was like a varnish, mostly) and then re-
        > oiled it.
        > When I got it the table rust was the only thing wrong with it,
        > except it was missing all its tooling, which I remedied over the
        > past few months. The machine itself is in pretty sharp condition
        > otherwise. I don't think it got any water down the spindle, so
        I'm
        > not worried about any corrosion in there.
        >
        > I am completely new and ignorant to machining work. I am anxious
        to
        > get started, and need some advice on fixing this problem.
        >
        > Many thanks,
        > Rick
        >
      • konsumingfire
        Bill, Thanks for the info. I will give it a try. By the way, what is LPS ? I googled it and found it at lpslabs.com. Is this the same stuff you are
        Message 3 of 4 , Dec 2, 2005
          Bill,

          Thanks for the info. I will give it a try. By the way, what
          is "LPS"? I googled it and found it at lpslabs.com. Is this the
          same stuff you are talking about? Would you recommend it for other
          uses besides relubing the spindle?

          Thanks,
          Rick

          --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Bill Pace" <pace8@b...> wrote:
          >
          > Sounds like youve got a case of "gummed" lubricant. This is prone
          to
          > happen when my milldrill sits idle, I just start spraying on
          > whatever spray lube is handy, WD-40, etc, to loosen it up, usually
          > doesnt take much. Lower the quill as far as will go and wet it
          down
          > & wipe off, with it back up, look all over to find a peep hole to
          > spray on it in the up position. When freed up ,I usually put a
          light
          > coat of LPS on it, but most any of the spray lubes will suffice if
          > done on a fairly often schedule. The same thing will happen to the
          > lead screws and ways on the tables, so a shot on them at the same
          > time is a good idea.
          >
          > Sounds like you got quite a find there in the "Birmy" (I got a
          12x36
          > Birmy lathe and really like it)
          >
          >
          >
          > --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "konsumingfire"
          > <konsumingfire@y...> wrote:
          > >
          > > I purchased a used bench mill recently, and have some questions
          > > about it. It is badged as a Birmingham, "made in taiwan", and
          > looks
          > > exactly like the RF-30/31.
          > >
          > > The main problem I am having is that it has sat for a little
          while
          > > after I got it and the spindle has become more difficult to move
          > up
          > > and down with the spoke handle. It still moves vertically but
          is
          > > pretty darn sticky. When I first got it, it was nice and
          smooth.
          > I
          > > made certain to undo the fixed bolt that locks the spindle in
          > place
          > > for machining work. Tightening the bolt makes it stick
          solidly.
          > > However, loosening it only allows sticky movement.
          > > I am assuming it needs lubricating, but am not certain where or
          > how
          > > to oil, or if it needs grease instead. I am hesitant to use oil
          > > until I know it won't wash out any grease. The manual is in
          > > Chinglish and is impossible to decipher exactly how to
          lubricate.
          > > It keeps talking about "filling the lubricant" which makes it
          > sound
          > > like there is a reservoir on the machine. If there is one I
          > haven't
          > > found it!
          > > I am assuming I need to take off the depth stop gauge cover or
          > > something to get to the rack sleeve behind it???
          > > Any ideas on what I need to do? What kind of oil/grease should
          I
          > > use?
          > >
          > > The history of my machine is that I got it from an old timer who
          > > used it for one quick job, made a stack of change, and then it
          sat
          > > in his storage unit for a few months. While in there, he had it
          > > tarped but a water leak in the roof got on it, and leaked
          through
          > > the new tarp. The only damage from that was surface rust on
          about
          > > 2/3 of the table. He oiled the surface as soon as he discovered
          > it,
          > > but did not fix the rust because he was going to sell it and
          > wanted
          > > to leave it up to the new owner how best to fix it. After I
          > bought
          > > it, I got a flat knife sharpening stone and within a few minutes
          > > removed the rust (which was like a varnish, mostly) and then re-
          > > oiled it.
          > > When I got it the table rust was the only thing wrong with it,
          > > except it was missing all its tooling, which I remedied over the
          > > past few months. The machine itself is in pretty sharp
          condition
          > > otherwise. I don't think it got any water down the spindle, so
          > I'm
          > > not worried about any corrosion in there.
          > >
          > > I am completely new and ignorant to machining work. I am
          anxious
          > to
          > > get started, and need some advice on fixing this problem.
          > >
          > > Many thanks,
          > > Rick
          > >
          >
        • Bill Pace
          The website you found is the home of the LPS I referred to, and you probably noticed they have many products. The one I was referring to was LPS2, and it is
          Message 4 of 4 , Dec 2, 2005
            The website you found is the home of the "LPS" I referred to, and
            you probably noticed they have many products. The one I was
            referring to was LPS2, and it is a good 'all around the shop' lube---
            --much better than WD40....and many others!



            --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "konsumingfire"
            <konsumingfire@y...> wrote:
            >
            > Bill,
            >
            > Thanks for the info. I will give it a try. By the way, what
            > is "LPS"? I googled it and found it at lpslabs.com. Is this the
            > same stuff you are talking about? Would you recommend it for
            other
            > uses besides relubing the spindle?
            >
            > Thanks,
            > Rick
            >
            > --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Bill Pace" <pace8@b...> wrote:
            > >
            > > Sounds like youve got a case of "gummed" lubricant. This is
            prone
            > to
            > > happen when my milldrill sits idle, I just start spraying on
            > > whatever spray lube is handy, WD-40, etc, to loosen it up,
            usually
            > > doesnt take much. Lower the quill as far as will go and wet it
            > down
            > > & wipe off, with it back up, look all over to find a peep hole
            to
            > > spray on it in the up position. When freed up ,I usually put a
            > light
            > > coat of LPS on it, but most any of the spray lubes will suffice
            if
            > > done on a fairly often schedule. The same thing will happen to
            the
            > > lead screws and ways on the tables, so a shot on them at the
            same
            > > time is a good idea.
            > >
            > > Sounds like you got quite a find there in the "Birmy" (I got a
            > 12x36
            > > Birmy lathe and really like it)
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > > --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "konsumingfire"
            > > <konsumingfire@y...> wrote:
            > > >
            > > > I purchased a used bench mill recently, and have some
            questions
            > > > about it. It is badged as a Birmingham, "made in taiwan", and
            > > looks
            > > > exactly like the RF-30/31.
            > > >
            > > > The main problem I am having is that it has sat for a little
            > while
            > > > after I got it and the spindle has become more difficult to
            move
            > > up
            > > > and down with the spoke handle. It still moves vertically but
            > is
            > > > pretty darn sticky. When I first got it, it was nice and
            > smooth.
            > > I
            > > > made certain to undo the fixed bolt that locks the spindle in
            > > place
            > > > for machining work. Tightening the bolt makes it stick
            > solidly.
            > > > However, loosening it only allows sticky movement.
            > > > I am assuming it needs lubricating, but am not certain where
            or
            > > how
            > > > to oil, or if it needs grease instead. I am hesitant to use
            oil
            > > > until I know it won't wash out any grease. The manual is in
            > > > Chinglish and is impossible to decipher exactly how to
            > lubricate.
            > > > It keeps talking about "filling the lubricant" which makes it
            > > sound
            > > > like there is a reservoir on the machine. If there is one I
            > > haven't
            > > > found it!
            > > > I am assuming I need to take off the depth stop gauge cover or
            > > > something to get to the rack sleeve behind it???
            > > > Any ideas on what I need to do? What kind of oil/grease
            should
            > I
            > > > use?
            > > >
            > > > The history of my machine is that I got it from an old timer
            who
            > > > used it for one quick job, made a stack of change, and then it
            > sat
            > > > in his storage unit for a few months. While in there, he had
            it
            > > > tarped but a water leak in the roof got on it, and leaked
            > through
            > > > the new tarp. The only damage from that was surface rust on
            > about
            > > > 2/3 of the table. He oiled the surface as soon as he
            discovered
            > > it,
            > > > but did not fix the rust because he was going to sell it and
            > > wanted
            > > > to leave it up to the new owner how best to fix it. After I
            > > bought
            > > > it, I got a flat knife sharpening stone and within a few
            minutes
            > > > removed the rust (which was like a varnish, mostly) and then
            re-
            > > > oiled it.
            > > > When I got it the table rust was the only thing wrong with it,
            > > > except it was missing all its tooling, which I remedied over
            the
            > > > past few months. The machine itself is in pretty sharp
            > condition
            > > > otherwise. I don't think it got any water down the spindle,
            so
            > > I'm
            > > > not worried about any corrosion in there.
            > > >
            > > > I am completely new and ignorant to machining work. I am
            > anxious
            > > to
            > > > get started, and need some advice on fixing this problem.
            > > >
            > > > Many thanks,
            > > > Rick
            > > >
            > >
            >
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