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Re: [mill_drill] New mill questions..

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  • Glenn
    Thanks Stan :) I welded up a frame out of 2 X 2 heavy wall square tubing tonight. 2 plywood will go on top of that. It will end up with the mill table just
    Message 1 of 13 , Oct 31, 2004
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      Thanks Stan :)
      I welded up a frame out of 2 X 2 heavy wall square tubing tonight.  2" plywood will go on top of that.  It will end up with the mill table just about belt high.  I was originally concerned about watching the dials and need ing to bend over a lot to see them but I ordered a DRO so now I am going with "easy to lift to height"  I have a sort of "cart drawer" envinsioned for the bottom ... big box on wheels so I can get to stuff down there when I need to.  I will have a regular drawer just above that.  I like the side panel idea.  (though the welds came out so nice tonight I almost hate to cover em up <LOL>) 
       
      On another note ... I plugged it in tonight just to be sure it ran :)  Well .. it runs .. sort of.  It has a 110 V cord on it but the motor is wired for 220.  Now I know why some other folk were so confused when they opened the moter to change over the voltage :)  30+ years as an electronics technician reading all types of system schematics and I couldn't make heads or tails out of the diagram on the motor <LOL>  I got the ol fluke out and then things really got weird!  It's just a double cap induction motor for crying out loud!  Somehow they figured out how to make this thing run forward and reverse with only 3 wires from the switch to the motor??  I can see how it would work for the 220 configuration but for the 110 configuration it needs one more switched lead.
      Oh well ... I wanted to run it on 220 anyway :)
       
      Thanks for the tips
      Glenn
      ----- Original Message -----
      Sent: Sunday, October 31, 2004 8:07 PM
      Subject: Re: [mill_drill] New mill questions..

      Hi Glenn,

      Congratulations on the new mill!  I'll reply after each question.

      Cheers,
      Stan

      Glenn Neff wrote:
      >
      > The questions are probably old but the mill is new :)
      > First, the mill is a dovetail column RF45 clone from Penn Tool.  So
      > far I am impressed with the fit and finish, but I need to weld up a
      > stand and set it up before I can comment on anything more.
      >
      > Questions,
      > 1,  What height works best for a stand and what things should I
      > consider before making sparks?  Since size is sort of individually
      > rated ... above/below beltline would be a good guage point :)
      I like the table suface at the point of the elbow to two inches lower.
      Any higher and putting heavy stuff on the table gets awkward as does
      working the drawbar with the head raised up high.  Any lower and you
      tend to stoop too much while working, causing lower back pain.
      >
      > 2, Material for the top?  2" plywood with angle iron bracing is what
      > I am thinking of at the moment.
      My mill stand is welded up from 2 inch angle iron with wood filler
      panels on the sides and rear.  The mill itself rests on two pieces of
      four inch channel welded front to back.  A slide out panel help keep
      dripping oil from the Y axis leadscrew from dripping into the top
      drawer, something added after the fact (oops, why is this drawer full of
      oil?!)  Angle iron welded inside the frame provides drawer runners.  The
      bottom ends of the angle iron have 1/2 inch plates welded in, drilled
      and tapped for 1/2-13 bolts to allow easy leveling.
      >
      > 3, Size of the top?  Space is at a premium right now but I don't
      > want to shoot myself in the foot for utility either.
      As small as possible.  I have about six inches of flat surface on either
      side of the mill which is about a minimum.  Any smaller and the stand
      would be too narrow, inviting tipping with the table at extreme travel.
        Larger may seem like a good idea, but swarf flies all around the mill
      so anything resting on the sides gets covered quickly.  A roll around
      table or roll around tool chest with a top is much easier to use, as you
      can put it where you want and not have calipers and such covered with swarf.
      >
      > I have been aquiring tooling and accessories for several years now
      > in anticipation of ading a mill to my shop so the bench will need
      > shelving/drawers for all the little goodies and perhaps a coolant
      > tank in the bottom.
      When I made mine, I put a large shelf in the bottom of the stand.  This
      was a mistake, as large angle plates tend to end up hidden to the rear
      and a 10 inch rotary table gets heavy to lift from almost floor level.
      If I were to do it over, I'd put the large shelf up high in the stand,
      and the drawers lower or just fill the entire base with drawers and add
      a shelf unit next to the mill.  Having the shelves on one side of hte
      mill facing to the side would hold dividing heads, rotary table, and
      such goodies out of the swarf zone while providing easy access.  I
      originally hung the clamping set and collet holders on the side of the
      stand, again a mistake.  They became covered with swarf quickly.  The
      clamping set is now on the wall higher up to the side and the collet
      rack is in the deep drawer in the stand.
      >
      > All suggestions and comments are welcome :)
      >
      > TIA
      > Glenn Neff
      > Medford, OR


    • pswguitar
      Hey Glen, So did you ever figure out how to get it to run on 110V? I recently got a mill, and will be moving in a few months to a new house where I ll wire up
      Message 2 of 13 , Nov 1, 2004
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        Hey Glen,

        So did you ever figure out how to get it to run on 110V? I recently
        got a mill, and will be moving in a few months to a new house where
        I'll wire up 220 in the garage. However, in the mean time, I want to
        run it from my current garage. I couldn't decipher that diagram or the
        wiring for the life of me either! Had an electrical engineer buddy
        check it out, and his comment was just to hook it up how I had thought
        it should and try it. Well, I don't want to ruin the thing, but I
        don't want to buy another motor, so looks like I'll just have to wait
        for the move to use it :( It's amazing the trouble a clear wiring
        diagram could eliminate...

        Happy milling,
        -Pat-

        --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Glenn" <sleykin@c...> wrote:
        > Thanks Stan :)
        > I welded up a frame out of 2 X 2 heavy wall square tubing tonight.
        2" plywood will go on top of that. It will end up with the mill table
        just about belt high. I was originally concerned about watching the
        dials and need ing to bend over a lot to see them but I ordered a DRO
        so now I am going with "easy to lift to height" I have a sort of
        "cart drawer" envinsioned for the bottom ... big box on wheels so I
        can get to stuff down there when I need to. I will have a regular
        drawer just above that. I like the side panel idea. (though the
        welds came out so nice tonight I almost hate to cover em up <LOL>)
        >
        > On another note ... I plugged it in tonight just to be sure it ran
        :) Well .. it runs .. sort of. It has a 110 V cord on it but the
        motor is wired for 220. Now I know why some other folk were so
        confused when they opened the moter to change over the voltage :) 30+
        years as an electronics technician reading all types of system
        schematics and I couldn't make heads or tails out of the diagram on
        the motor <LOL> I got the ol fluke out and then things really got
        weird! It's just a double cap induction motor for crying out loud!
        Somehow they figured out how to make this thing run forward and
        reverse with only 3 wires from the switch to the motor?? I can see
        how it would work for the 220 configuration but for the 110
        configuration it needs one more switched lead.
        > Oh well ... I wanted to run it on 220 anyway :)
        >
        > Thanks for the tips
        > Glenn
        > ----- Original Message -----
        > From: Stan Stocker
        > To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
        > Sent: Sunday, October 31, 2004 8:07 PM
        > Subject: Re: [mill_drill] New mill questions..
        >
        >
        > Hi Glenn,
        >
        > Congratulations on the new mill! I'll reply after each question.
        >
        > Cheers,
        > Stan
        >
        > Glenn Neff wrote:
        > >
        > > The questions are probably old but the mill is new :)
        > > First, the mill is a dovetail column RF45 clone from Penn Tool. So
        > > far I am impressed with the fit and finish, but I need to weld up a
        > > stand and set it up before I can comment on anything more.
        > >
        > > Questions,
        > > 1, What height works best for a stand and what things should I
        > > consider before making sparks? Since size is sort of individually
        > > rated ... above/below beltline would be a good guage point :)
        > I like the table suface at the point of the elbow to two inches
        lower.
        > Any higher and putting heavy stuff on the table gets awkward as does
        > working the drawbar with the head raised up high. Any lower and you
        > tend to stoop too much while working, causing lower back pain.
        > >
        > > 2, Material for the top? 2" plywood with angle iron bracing is
        what
        > > I am thinking of at the moment.
        > My mill stand is welded up from 2 inch angle iron with wood filler
        > panels on the sides and rear. The mill itself rests on two pieces of
        > four inch channel welded front to back. A slide out panel help keep
        > dripping oil from the Y axis leadscrew from dripping into the top
        > drawer, something added after the fact (oops, why is this drawer
        full of
        > oil?!) Angle iron welded inside the frame provides drawer
        runners. The
        > bottom ends of the angle iron have 1/2 inch plates welded in, drilled
        > and tapped for 1/2-13 bolts to allow easy leveling.
        > >
        > > 3, Size of the top? Space is at a premium right now but I don't
        > > want to shoot myself in the foot for utility either.
        > As small as possible. I have about six inches of flat surface on
        either
        > side of the mill which is about a minimum. Any smaller and the stand
        > would be too narrow, inviting tipping with the table at extreme
        travel.
        > Larger may seem like a good idea, but swarf flies all around the
        mill
        > so anything resting on the sides gets covered quickly. A roll around
        > table or roll around tool chest with a top is much easier to use,
        as you
        > can put it where you want and not have calipers and such covered
        with swarf.
        > >
        > > I have been aquiring tooling and accessories for several years now
        > > in anticipation of ading a mill to my shop so the bench will need
        > > shelving/drawers for all the little goodies and perhaps a coolant
        > > tank in the bottom.
        > When I made mine, I put a large shelf in the bottom of the stand.
        This
        > was a mistake, as large angle plates tend to end up hidden to the
        rear
        > and a 10 inch rotary table gets heavy to lift from almost floor
        level.
        > If I were to do it over, I'd put the large shelf up high in the
        stand,
        > and the drawers lower or just fill the entire base with drawers
        and add
        > a shelf unit next to the mill. Having the shelves on one side of hte
        > mill facing to the side would hold dividing heads, rotary table, and
        > such goodies out of the swarf zone while providing easy access. I
        > originally hung the clamping set and collet holders on the side of
        the
        > stand, again a mistake. They became covered with swarf quickly. The
        > clamping set is now on the wall higher up to the side and the collet
        > rack is in the deep drawer in the stand.
        > >
        > > All suggestions and comments are welcome :)
        > >
        > > TIA
        > > Glenn Neff
        > > Medford, OR
        >
        >
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      • Glenn
        Hi Pat Yeah I got it figured out. I emailed Penn Tool and they fired me off a JPG of a more correct diagram. It is as I thought. There needs to be one more
        Message 3 of 13 , Nov 1, 2004
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          Hi Pat
          Yeah I got it figured out.  I emailed Penn Tool and they fired me off a JPG of a more correct diagram.  It is as I thought.  There needs to be one more wire down to the switch to run on 110.  The switch has 6 terminals.  1 to U1  2 to Z2  3 to V2 and 4 to Z1
          Basically you leave the existing wires as they are, move the 2 jumper bars so they connect U1V1 and U2V2.  Then add a wire from terminal 2 on the switch to Z2.
          The diagram on the motor is correct for the motor.  They just didn't run all the wires to the switch for 110 operation.  It looks like I had it figured out ok .. I just couldn't believe what I was seeing :)
          If you want the JPG I would be happy to e-mail it to you or I could post it to the files section.
          HTH
          Glenn
          ----- Original Message -----
          From: pswguitar
          Sent: Monday, November 01, 2004 5:23 PM
          Subject: [mill_drill] Re: New mill questions..


          Hey Glen,

          So did you ever figure out how to get it to run on 110V? I recently
          got a mill, and will be moving in a few months to a new house where
          I'll wire up 220 in the garage. However, in the mean time, I want to
          run it from my current garage. I couldn't decipher that diagram or the
          wiring for the life of me either! Had an electrical engineer buddy
          check it out, and his comment was just to hook it up how I had thought
          it should and try it. Well, I don't want to ruin the thing, but I
          don't want to buy another motor, so looks like I'll just have to wait
          for the move to use it :( It's amazing the trouble a clear wiring
          diagram could eliminate...

          Happy milling,
          -Pat-

          --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Glenn" <sleykin@c...> wrote:
          > Thanks Stan :)
          > I welded up a frame out of 2 X 2 heavy wall square tubing tonight.
          2" plywood will go on top of that.  It will end up with the mill table
          just about belt high.  I was originally concerned about watching the
          dials and need ing to bend over a lot to see them but I ordered a DRO
          so now I am going with "easy to lift to height"  I have a sort of
          "cart drawer" envinsioned for the bottom ... big box on wheels so I
          can get to stuff down there when I need to.  I will have a regular
          drawer just above that.  I like the side panel idea.  (though the
          welds came out so nice tonight I almost hate to cover em up <LOL>) 
          >
          > On another note ... I plugged it in tonight just to be sure it ran
          :)  Well .. it runs .. sort of.  It has a 110 V cord on it but the
          motor is wired for 220.  Now I know why some other folk were so
          confused when they opened the moter to change over the voltage :)  30+
          years as an electronics technician reading all types of system
          schematics and I couldn't make heads or tails out of the diagram on
          the motor <LOL>  I got the ol fluke out and then things really got
          weird!  It's just a double cap induction motor for crying out loud!
          Somehow they figured out how to make this thing run forward and
          reverse with only 3 wires from the switch to the motor??  I can see
          how it would work for the 220 configuration but for the 110
          configuration it needs one more switched lead.
          > Oh well ... I wanted to run it on 220 anyway :)
          >
          > Thanks for the tips
          > Glenn
          >   ----- Original Message -----
          >   From: Stan Stocker
          >   To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
          >   Sent: Sunday, October 31, 2004 8:07 PM
          >   Subject: Re: [mill_drill] New mill questions..
          >
          >
          >   Hi Glenn,
          >
          >   Congratulations on the new mill!  I'll reply after each question.
          >
          >   Cheers,
          >   Stan
          >
          >   Glenn Neff wrote:
          >   >
          >   > The questions are probably old but the mill is new :)
          >   > First, the mill is a dovetail column RF45 clone from Penn Tool.  So
          >   > far I am impressed with the fit and finish, but I need to weld up a
          >   > stand and set it up before I can comment on anything more.
          >   >
          >   > Questions,
          >   > 1,  What height works best for a stand and what things should I
          >   > consider before making sparks?  Since size is sort of individually
          >   > rated ... above/below beltline would be a good guage point :)
          >   I like the table suface at the point of the elbow to two inches
          lower.
          >   Any higher and putting heavy stuff on the table gets awkward as does
          >   working the drawbar with the head raised up high.  Any lower and you
          >   tend to stoop too much while working, causing lower back pain.
          >   >
          >   > 2, Material for the top?  2" plywood with angle iron bracing is
          what
          >   > I am thinking of at the moment.
          >   My mill stand is welded up from 2 inch angle iron with wood filler
          >   panels on the sides and rear.  The mill itself rests on two pieces of
          >   four inch channel welded front to back.  A slide out panel help keep
          >   dripping oil from the Y axis leadscrew from dripping into the top
          >   drawer, something added after the fact (oops, why is this drawer
          full of
          >   oil?!)  Angle iron welded inside the frame provides drawer
          runners.  The
          >   bottom ends of the angle iron have 1/2 inch plates welded in, drilled
          >   and tapped for 1/2-13 bolts to allow easy leveling.
          >   >
          >   > 3, Size of the top?  Space is at a premium right now but I don't
          >   > want to shoot myself in the foot for utility either.
          >   As small as possible.  I have about six inches of flat surface on
          either
          >   side of the mill which is about a minimum.  Any smaller and the stand
          >   would be too narrow, inviting tipping with the table at extreme
          travel.
          >     Larger may seem like a good idea, but swarf flies all around the
          mill
          >   so anything resting on the sides gets covered quickly.  A roll around
          >   table or roll around tool chest with a top is much easier to use,
          as you
          >   can put it where you want and not have calipers and such covered
          with swarf.
          >   >
          >   > I have been aquiring tooling and accessories for several years now
          >   > in anticipation of ading a mill to my shop so the bench will need
          >   > shelving/drawers for all the little goodies and perhaps a coolant
          >   > tank in the bottom.
          >   When I made mine, I put a large shelf in the bottom of the stand.
          This
          >   was a mistake, as large angle plates tend to end up hidden to the
          rear
          >   and a 10 inch rotary table gets heavy to lift from almost floor
          level.
          >   If I were to do it over, I'd put the large shelf up high in the
          stand,
          >   and the drawers lower or just fill the entire base with drawers
          and add
          >   a shelf unit next to the mill.  Having the shelves on one side of hte
          >   mill facing to the side would hold dividing heads, rotary table, and
          >   such goodies out of the swarf zone while providing easy access.  I
          >   originally hung the clamping set and collet holders on the side of
          the
          >   stand, again a mistake.  They became covered with swarf quickly.  The
          >   clamping set is now on the wall higher up to the side and the collet
          >   rack is in the deep drawer in the stand.
          >   >
          >   > All suggestions and comments are welcome :)
          >   >
          >   > TIA
          >   > Glenn Neff
          >   > Medford, OR
          >
          >
          >         Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
          >               ADVERTISEMENT
          >             
          >       
          >       
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          >
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          ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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          >
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          >     http://groups.yahoo.com/group/mill_drill/
          >      
          >     b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
          >     mill_drill-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
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          Service.




        • jleegd
          ... could post it to the files section. Hi Glen, Yes please post it in the files section. I ve been trying to convert mine from 110 to 220. Post if you can,
          Message 4 of 13 , Nov 1, 2004
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            > If you want the JPG I would be happy to e-mail it to you or I
            could post it to the files section.

            Hi Glen,

            Yes please post it in the files section. I've been trying to convert
            mine from 110 to 220. Post if you can, before and after pics of
            connection in the motor. The switches of each machine vary greatly
            so I don't think it would help. I bought a Wholesale Tool's ZAY7045
            with swivel table. I eventually will need to end up with a 3 wire
            configuration. I could post pics of my configuration if that will
            help you.

            Thanks,

            John
          • Glenn
            I uploaded the drawing they sent me. I have not taken mine apart as the switch is mounted in the front cover and just didn t think it was worthwile to take it
            Message 5 of 13 , Nov 1, 2004
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              I uploaded the drawing they sent me.  I have not taken mine apart as the switch is mounted in the front cover and just didn't think it was worthwile to take it apart since I am ultimately going to run it on 220 anyway.  I ran a circuit tonight so it is running now.  The missing wire is what had me going :)
               
              I would be happy to help if you want to either send pics of what you have or post em.  You probably have a tripple pole double throw switch and you only need a double pole double throw switch.  The tripple throw would be used in 3 phase.  If you look at the forward and revers diagrams you can see the fixed jumpers and then the switched jumpers and just wire it that way.
               
              HTH
              Glenn
              ----- Original Message -----
              From: jleegd
              Sent: Monday, November 01, 2004 7:29 PM
              Subject: [mill_drill] Re: New mill questions..


              > If you want the JPG I would be happy to e-mail it to you or I
              could post it to the files section.

              Hi Glen,

              Yes please post it in the files section. I've been trying to convert
              mine from 110 to 220. Post if you can, before and after pics of
              connection in the motor. The switches of each machine vary greatly
              so I don't think it would help. I bought a Wholesale Tool's ZAY7045
              with swivel table. I eventually will need to end up with a 3 wire
              configuration. I could post pics of my configuration if that will
              help you.

              Thanks,

              John




            • jleegd
              Hi Glen, Thanks for the drawing. I might post a pic of what I eventually have. I don t have swithes with any mechanical throws. Its a reversing magnetic
              Message 6 of 13 , Nov 2, 2004
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                Hi Glen,

                Thanks for the drawing. I might post a pic of what I eventually
                have. I don't have swithes with any mechanical throws. Its a
                reversing magnetic switch. The mill came with a bunch of relays,
                timers, and microswitches that enable it to reverse automatically
                for tapping purposes. Well too many things to go wrong and it must
                have since it didn't work. I bought it "as is" for $1000 because the
                motor didn't run. I new the problem was with the start system since
                I was able to run it briefly while at the Wholesale Tool.

                I got tired of all the relays and timers so I gut it and have just
                the contactor and a few push buttons to operate it. The manual does
                not state any info on conversion to high voltage but I know that
                this machine is made buy the same factory as the harbor freight gear
                head with round column. The motor even has the same Yuen Jen name on
                it, so I know you can convert it. I been collecting as many wiring
                diagrams to make sure I am doing it right.

                I want to use a quality contactor with an overload relay. The one I
                have is for a three wire configuration. So this is where I am. It
                works but it has no overload protection.

                I have been impressed so far with the critical finishes on the mill.
                The ways and spindle are pretty accurate. I trammed the head and I
                didn't have to shim the main column and is within .0005. I wasn't
                impressed with some more cosmetic things like the flaking paint and
                the raw castings. Yes I did repaint it grey and touched up the
                castings with a die grinder. Definetly a kit project for this fuss
                budget.

                I like it much better now.


                John
              • jleegd
                BTW, I also built my own stand. Stan s comments are solid. I d like to add that you will need access to the bottom of the base to be able to adjust one of the
                Message 7 of 13 , Nov 2, 2004
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                  BTW,

                  I also built my own stand. Stan's comments are solid. I'd like to
                  add that you will need access to the bottom of the base to be able
                  to adjust one of the backlash screws. So oil in the first drawer
                  will be a problem anyway. I had to build mine from available stock
                  from the scrapyard. Steel prices are so high, if I built out of new
                  stock it would have cost at least five times as much. I was able to
                  weld some 3x2x.25 angle iron mitered to create a table top. Looks
                  like a picture frame.

                  I also created a drip pan with sheet metal to finish the top. The
                  drip pan is to catch oil drips not chips. If you want to catch chips
                  you should think about some sort shroud. I am thinking about it, but
                  I will make do with an old shower curtain that will create an
                  enclosed space when machining. The legs were fitted with 3/8" caps
                  at the bottom to thread ajustable feet.

                  I'll post pictures of the stand in the milldrill2 site.

                  Cheers,

                  John
                • Glenn
                  Sounds like you just need the motor wiring then. That should be pretty straightforward. Of course if the relays are for 220 you need a transformer. Glenn ...
                  Message 8 of 13 , Nov 2, 2004
                  • 0 Attachment
                    Sounds like you just need the motor wiring then.  That should be pretty straightforward.  Of course if the relays are for 220 you need a transformer.
                    Glenn
                    ----- Original Message -----
                    From: jleegd
                    Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2004 10:50 AM
                    Subject: [mill_drill] Motor wiring


                    Hi Glen,

                    Thanks for the drawing. I might post a pic of what I eventually
                    have. I don't have swithes with any mechanical throws. Its a
                    reversing magnetic switch. The mill came with a bunch of relays,
                    timers, and microswitches that enable it to reverse automatically
                    for tapping purposes. Well too many things to go wrong and it must
                    have since it didn't work. I bought it "as is" for $1000 because the
                    motor didn't run. I new the problem was with the start system since
                    I was able to run it briefly while at the Wholesale Tool.

                    I got tired of all the relays and timers so I gut it and have just
                    the contactor and a few push buttons to operate it. The manual does
                    not state any info on conversion to high voltage but I know that
                    this machine is made buy the same factory as the harbor freight gear
                    head with round column. The motor even has the same Yuen Jen name on
                    it, so I know you can convert it. I been collecting as many wiring
                    diagrams to make sure I am doing it right.

                    I want to use a quality contactor with an overload relay. The one I
                    have is for a three wire configuration. So this is where I am. It
                    works but it has no overload protection.

                    I have been impressed so far with the critical finishes on the mill.
                    The ways and spindle are pretty accurate. I trammed the head and I
                    didn't have to shim the main column and is within .0005. I wasn't
                    impressed with some more cosmetic things like the flaking paint and
                    the raw castings. Yes I did repaint it grey and touched up the
                    castings with a die grinder. Definetly a kit project for this fuss
                    budget.

                    I like it much better now.


                    John





                  • Glenn
                    I built mine from available stock in the backyard ... had a bunch of 2 heavy wall square tube so that became the base. 10 2 X 3.5 plywood pallett
                    Message 9 of 13 , Nov 2, 2004
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                      <GRIN>
                      I built mine from available stock in the backyard ... had a bunch of 2" heavy wall square tube so that became the base.  10 2" X 3.5" plywood pallett stickers became the top with an overlay of particle board.  Top is 48" X 35" .. Probably bigger than I need but I would rather stuff fell off on the table than the floor <LOL>
                      I doo need to make some adjustable feet for it though.  Table is square and flat but the darn floor isn't :) 
                      I don't envision having to adjust the backlash often and the shop crane is only a few feet away.  If it becomes an issue I will just remove a couple of stickers from the center and run a hole saw trhough the top piece.  Still haven't built the drawers for it yet.  Still thinking on that part.
                      I think I will make some of the "hokey puck" feet for it with adjusters.
                       
                      Thanks for the tips
                      Glenn
                      ----- Original Message -----
                      From: jleegd
                      Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2004 11:58 AM
                      Subject: [mill_drill] Re: New mill questions..


                      BTW,

                      I also built my own stand. Stan's comments are solid. I'd like to
                      add that you will need access to the bottom of the base to be able
                      to adjust one of the backlash screws. So oil in the first drawer
                      will be a problem anyway. I had to build mine from available stock
                      from the scrapyard. Steel prices are so high, if I built out of new
                      stock it would have cost at least five times as much. I was able to
                      weld some 3x2x.25 angle iron mitered to create a table top. Looks
                      like a picture frame.

                      I also created a drip pan with sheet metal to finish the top. The
                      drip pan is to catch oil drips not chips. If you want to catch chips
                      you should think about some sort shroud. I am thinking about it, but
                      I will make do with an old shower curtain that will create an
                      enclosed space when machining. The legs were fitted with 3/8" caps
                      at the bottom to thread ajustable feet.

                      I'll post pictures of the stand in the milldrill2 site.

                      Cheers,

                      John






                    • industrialhobbies
                      I think I know the Hockey Puck foot tip :) Thanks Aaron Moss www.IndustrialHobbies.com ... of 2 heavy wall square tube so that became the base. 10 2 X 3.5
                      Message 10 of 13 , Nov 3, 2004
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                        I think I know the Hockey Puck foot tip :)

                        Thanks
                        Aaron Moss
                        www.IndustrialHobbies.com



                        --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Glenn" <sleykin@c...> wrote:
                        > <GRIN>
                        > I built mine from available stock in the backyard ... had a bunch
                        of 2" heavy wall square tube so that became the base. 10 2" X 3.5"
                        plywood pallett stickers became the top with an overlay of particle
                        board. Top is 48" X 35" .. Probably bigger than I need but I would
                        rather stuff fell off on the table than the floor <LOL>
                        > I doo need to make some adjustable feet for it though. Table is
                        square and flat but the darn floor isn't :)
                        > I don't envision having to adjust the backlash often and the shop
                        crane is only a few feet away. If it becomes an issue I will just
                        remove a couple of stickers from the center and run a hole saw
                        trhough the top piece. Still haven't built the drawers for it yet.
                        Still thinking on that part.
                        > I think I will make some of the "hokey puck" feet for it with
                        adjusters.
                        >
                        > Thanks for the tips
                        > Glenn
                        > ----- Original Message -----
                        > From: jleegd
                        > To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                        > Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2004 11:58 AM
                        > Subject: [mill_drill] Re: New mill questions..
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        > BTW,
                        >
                        > I also built my own stand. Stan's comments are solid. I'd like to
                        > add that you will need access to the bottom of the base to be
                        able
                        > to adjust one of the backlash screws. So oil in the first drawer
                        > will be a problem anyway. I had to build mine from available
                        stock
                        > from the scrapyard. Steel prices are so high, if I built out of
                        new
                        > stock it would have cost at least five times as much. I was able
                        to
                        > weld some 3x2x.25 angle iron mitered to create a table top. Looks
                        > like a picture frame.
                        >
                        > I also created a drip pan with sheet metal to finish the top. The
                        > drip pan is to catch oil drips not chips. If you want to catch
                        chips
                        > you should think about some sort shroud. I am thinking about it,
                        but
                        > I will make do with an old shower curtain that will create an
                        > enclosed space when machining. The legs were fitted with 3/8"
                        caps
                        > at the bottom to thread ajustable feet.
                        >
                        > I'll post pictures of the stand in the milldrill2 site.
                        >
                        > Cheers,
                        >
                        > John
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        >
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                      • Glenn
                        Yes only you have Hocky Pucks around where you live :) That s why I have to go with the hokey puck idea :) I have some 1/2 elastomer sheet that they use in
                        Message 11 of 13 , Nov 3, 2004
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                          Yes only you have Hocky Pucks around where you live :)  That's why I have to go with the hokey puck idea :)  I have some 1/2" elastomer sheet that they use in the bottom of dies on a punch press.  A hole saw in the drill press and presto instant hokey pucks ;)
                           
                          Thanks for the idea Aaron
                          Glenn
                          ----- Original Message -----
                          Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 2004 6:53 PM
                          Subject: [mill_drill] Re: New mill questions..


                          I think I know the Hockey Puck foot tip :)

                          Thanks
                          Aaron Moss
                          www.IndustrialHobbies.com



                          --- In mill_drill@yahoogroups.com, "Glenn" <sleykin@c...> wrote:
                          > <GRIN>
                          > I built mine from available stock in the backyard ... had a bunch
                          of 2" heavy wall square tube so that became the base.  10 2" X 3.5"
                          plywood pallett stickers became the top with an overlay of particle
                          board.  Top is 48" X 35" .. Probably bigger than I need but I would
                          rather stuff fell off on the table than the floor <LOL>
                          > I doo need to make some adjustable feet for it though.  Table is
                          square and flat but the darn floor isn't :) 
                          > I don't envision having to adjust the backlash often and the shop
                          crane is only a few feet away.  If it becomes an issue I will just
                          remove a couple of stickers from the center and run a hole saw
                          trhough the top piece.  Still haven't built the drawers for it yet. 
                          Still thinking on that part.
                          > I think I will make some of the "hokey puck" feet for it with
                          adjusters.
                          >
                          > Thanks for the tips
                          > Glenn
                          >   ----- Original Message -----
                          >   From: jleegd
                          >   To: mill_drill@yahoogroups.com
                          >   Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2004 11:58 AM
                          >   Subject: [mill_drill] Re: New mill questions..
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >   BTW,
                          >
                          >   I also built my own stand. Stan's comments are solid. I'd like to
                          >   add that you will need access to the bottom of the base to be
                          able
                          >   to adjust one of the backlash screws. So oil in the first drawer
                          >   will be a problem anyway. I had to build mine from available
                          stock
                          >   from the scrapyard. Steel prices are so high, if I built out of
                          new
                          >   stock it would have cost at least five times as much. I was able
                          to
                          >   weld some 3x2x.25 angle iron mitered to create a table top. Looks
                          >   like a picture frame.
                          >
                          >   I also created a drip pan with sheet metal to finish the top. The
                          >   drip pan is to catch oil drips not chips. If you want to catch
                          chips
                          >   you should think about some sort shroud. I am thinking about it,
                          but
                          >   I will make do with an old shower curtain that will create an
                          >   enclosed space when machining. The legs were fitted with 3/8"
                          caps
                          >   at the bottom to thread ajustable feet.
                          >
                          >   I'll post pictures of the stand in the milldrill2 site.
                          >
                          >   Cheers,
                          >
                          >   John
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >         Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
                          >               ADVERTISEMENT
                          >             
                          >       
                          >       
                          >
                          >
                          > --------------------------------------------------------------------
                          ----------
                          >   Yahoo! Groups Links
                          >
                          >     a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
                          >     http://groups.yahoo.com/group/mill_drill/
                          >      
                          >     b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
                          >     mill_drill-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
                          >      
                          >     c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
                          Service.




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