36128Re: [MILL_DRILL] how is that done question [1 Attachment] ALSO a couple noted on replica firearms.
- Jul 24, 2014Stan Stocker skstocker@... [MILL_DRILL] wrote:
> A handy hint for folks with the Pietta (Pity?) replica. My hammer wasI'm not sure who manufactured mine , but it came as a kit - sand cast
> not hardened and the striking face mushroomed after a year or so of
> re-enacting. Forged down the sides to shove the metal back where it
> belonged, cleaned up, and case hardened with Kasenite. No more
> mushrooming hammer faces. Sad little models really, their Navy is a
> disaster, had to mill 40 thou off a friends frame to close up the
> headspace enough to fire reliably.
> Another weird thing about at least my particular weapon - You can't
> reblue these things. I don't know what steel they use or how they do
> it at the factory. When my son tried to blue mine, the finish came
> out looking like a low luster black parkerize job even though he'd
> polished and prepped to the same level as for a normal to better than
> average bluing job. The came bluing setup produced excellent work
> before and after, so it was something specific to this individual
> Best to all,
> Stan Stocker
exterior , unfinished wood parts , completely disassembled - all machine
work was done and the barrel was in the frame though . After I bought my .36
kit , Dad liked it so much he got the .44 kit <I have that one too now> .
We chose different finishes , he went with blue and I had a friend who
worked at Browning Arms' plant in SLC . Mine's brown , along with the ML
rifle <CVA , also from a kit> .
I also had a problem with my hammer mushrooming , but it was from dry
firing w/out a cap . Learned real quick not to do that . Did you also
re-heat-treat the sear area when you case hardened your hammer face ?
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